P0562 on Dodge: How to Diagnose & Fix
System Voltage Low
5 Dodge models · 8 documented issues · 2 critical · $10-$2,400 repair
P0562 on Dodge by model: symptoms, diagnosis and fix
The alternator can fail prematurely, causing charging system warnings and potential stalling. The battery may not charge properly, leading to electrical issues and eventually a no-start condition. High electrical loads from factory or aftermarket accessories can accelerate alternator wear.
Common Symptoms
- Battery/charging system warning light
- Dim headlights
- Electrical accessories acting erratically
- Battery not holding charge
- Car stalls and won't restart
- Whining noise from alternator
How to Fix
Replace alternator with OEM or quality aftermarket unit. Have battery tested and replaced if damaged from undercharging. Check for excessive electrical draw from accessories. Consider higher-output alternator for vehicles with added electrical accessories.
Sources for this issue (2)
The alternator can fail prematurely, causing charging system issues. The Durango has many electrical systems that put demand on the charging system. High electrical loads accelerate alternator wear.
Common Symptoms
- Battery warning light
- Dim headlights
- Electrical accessories acting erratically
- Dead battery
- Whining noise from alternator
How to Fix
Replace alternator with OEM or quality aftermarket. Test battery condition as it may be damaged from undercharging. Consider higher-output alternator if aftermarket accessories installed.
Sources for this issue (2)
Alternators fail prematurely due to bearing wear, voltage regulator failure, and internal diode damage. Stops charging battery properly causing electrical system problems and eventually dead battery. Sometimes overcharges, damaging electrical components.
Common Symptoms
- Battery warning light illuminated
- Dimming headlights or interior lights
- Lights dim or brighten with engine RPM
- Battery dies or won't hold charge
- Whining or grinding noise from alternator
How to Fix
Test alternator output voltage and amperage to confirm failure. Replace alternator with quality rebuilt or new unit. Inspect serpentine belt and replace if necessary. Check battery condition - failing battery can damage alternator.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Mopar 4801490AD alternator
Replace on the exact configurations listed by Mopar after failed charging-output testing Fitment: Use the product fitment/VIN check; not a blanket 2009-2020 alternator Live Mopar direct-product page when checked
Sources for this issue (1)
The Dodge Challenger has two distinct, well-documented power-steering complaints on the pre-2015 LC/LX-platform cars, and both are flagged by RepairPal as common problems (MotorBiscuit lists "a loud power steering system" among the four most-reported Challenger issues). FIRST, a HYDRAULIC NOISE: owners hear a honk, hiss, groan, or whine from the steering during low-speed parking-lot maneuvers, worst when turning the wheel toward full lock. RepairPal documents this as a recognized concern on 2008-2012 Challengers; Chrysler addressed it with TSB 19-005-10 ("Steering Gear Honk, Hiss or Groan During Low Speed Parking Lot Maneuvers," superseding 19-003-09), which traces the noise to the power-steering return hose and, in some cases, the steering gear (rack). Fluid aeration, a low or contaminated fluid level, and worn pump vanes/bearings produce the same groan/whine. SECOND, an ASSIST-LOSS failure on EHPS cars: 2011-2014 Challengers with the 3.6L Pentastar or 5.7L HEMI use an electro-hydraulic power-steering (EHPS) pump that depends on the charging system. Under NHTSA recall 17V-435 (Chrysler recall T36, ~442,214 vehicles across Challenger/Charger/300/Durango/Grand Cherokee), the alternator can suffer diode thermal fatigue specifically because of the cyclical electrical loads the EHPS pump imposes; when the diodes fail, system voltage drops, the EHPS pump shuts down, the steering goes heavy, and the vehicle can stall without warning (failed diodes can also short and cause heat/smoke/fire). Note the engine/fluid split: 3.6L/5.7L EHPS cars require Mopar Electric Power Steering Fluid, while the conventional hydraulic SRT8/392 (6.1L/6.4L) and base V6 systems use ATF+4 — using the wrong fluid causes noise, seal damage, and pump failure. This entry is distinct from the later electronic-EPS-rack failure on the 2015+ refreshed Challenger (recalls S19/16V-167 and VB8/19V-812), which is a different rack design and root cause.
Common Symptoms
- Honk, hiss, or groan from the steering during low-speed parking-lot maneuvers (worst near full lock)
- Whining noise from the power-steering pump that rises with engine RPM or when turning
- Heavy/hard steering at low speed
- Sudden loss of power-steering assist (EHPS cars) accompanied by a charging-system or voltage warning
- Vehicle stalls without warning (alternator diode failure on EHPS cars)
- Burning smell, smoke, or smell of electrical heat from the engine bay (failed alternator diodes shorting)
- Foamy or low power-steering fluid
How to Fix
For the low-speed honk/hiss/groan: start cheap. Verify the power-steering fluid level and condition and use the CORRECT fluid for your system — Mopar Electric Power Steering Fluid for 3.6L/5.7L EHPS cars, ATF+4 for conventional hydraulic SRT8/392 (6.1L/6.4L) and base hydraulic systems. A fluid flush/bleed to purge trapped air often quiets the noise (DIY fluid is ~$5-10/qt, ~2 qt; shop fluid service starts around $111). If the noise persists, follow TSB 19-005-10 and replace the power-steering RETURN HOSE first; if that does not cure it, the steering gear (rack and pinion) is the next step (Challenger rack-and-pinion replacement averages roughly $2,057-$2,372). A worn pump that whines/groans constantly may need replacement (Challenger power-steering pump replacement averages about $1,347-$2,122, with simpler jobs starting near $327). For the EHPS assist-loss / alternator issue on 2011-2014 3.6L/5.7L cars: check your VIN at nhtsa.gov for recall 17V-435 (Chrysler T36) — the alternator is replaced FREE with an improved-diode unit; if a "Power Steering" or charging/voltage warning appears or steering suddenly goes heavy, do not ignore it because the car can stall. Contact FCA at 1-800-853-1403 (reference T36) or NHTSA at 1-888-327-4236. After any rack or steering-angle-related work, a steering-angle-sensor recalibration may be required.
Sources for this issue (1)
The Dodge Challenger has a well-documented tendency to stall or shut off completely without warning while driving — a top-3 engine-category complaint at NHTSA and one of the most-reported electrical/engine problems at CarComplaints. There are two primary, separately documented root causes that present the same symptom. (1) ALTERNATOR FAILURE (3.6L Pentastar, and later 5.7L/6.4L with electro-hydraulic power steering). Chrysler began investigating stalling complaints on 2011-2012 Dodge Chargers in August 2014 and found thermal fatigue of the silicon diodes inside the alternator. The large, intermittent current draw of the electro-hydraulic power-steering (EHPS) pump thermally stresses the diodes until the alternator fails suddenly. This became NHTSA recall 14V634 (Chrysler P60), covering ~434,000 2011-2014 Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger, Challenger, Durango, and 2012-2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee vehicles with the 3.6L engine and 160-amp alternator (remedy began Feb 27, 2015). It was later expanded under NHTSA recall 17V435 (remedy began Feb 12, 2018) to additional 2011-2014 cars with EHPS and 5.7L or 3.6L engines. NHTSA's stated consequence for both: "If the alternator fails, the vehicle may stall without warning, increasing the risk of a crash," with an additional risk of an underhood fire from a short circuit. (2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) / FUEL-PUMP-RELAY FAILURE (2008-2014, all engines). The TIPM is the car's central fuse/relay/electrical-distribution computer. When it (or its internal fuel-pump relay) degrades, owners report the engine stalling or shutting off mid-drive, intermittent no-starts, flickering lights, and multiple simultaneous warning lights (check engine, traction control/ESC, ABS). CarComplaints documents this on the 2009 Challenger ("engine shuts down while driving," 7 complaints, severity 8.6/10, ~$800 average repair, ~43,300 miles) and the 2013 Challenger ("bad TIPM," 12 complaints, severity 7.2/10, ~$940 average repair, ~43,050 miles). Because the engine quits unexpectedly, the driver loses power steering and (on automatics) power braking assist while the car is in motion — making this a genuine safety hazard, especially in intersections, on highway merges, and during turns. Multiple NHTSA complaints describe near-crashes and crashes from sudden loss of power.
Common Symptoms
- Engine suddenly shuts off / stalls while driving with no warning
- Stalling during turns, merging, or in intersections (loss of power steering and brake assist)
- Battery / charging-system warning light, then dimming or flickering headlights and dash lights (alternator)
- Multiple warning lights at once (check engine, traction control/ESC, ABS)
- Intermittent no-start or having to cycle the ignition several times to start
- Engine cranks but won't fire after a stall
- Random electrical glitches (lights flashing, wipers activating, alarm cycling) before the stall (TIPM)
- Hesitation or loss of acceleration before shutdown
How to Fix
First, check open recalls by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls or with a Dodge dealer — 2011-2014 3.6L cars (and EHPS 5.7L/6.4L cars) are covered by alternator recalls 14V634 / 17V435, which replace the alternator FREE of charge. If your car qualifies, this is the cheapest and correct fix. For the alternator path off-recall: a charging-system test (battery, alternator output, voltage drop at the alternator plug/ground) confirms the failure. Watch for the battery/charge warning light, dimming lights, and a P0562 (system voltage low) DTC before a full stall. Replace the alternator (3.6L commonly uses a 160A or 220A unit) and inspect the wiring connector and ground for corrosion/damage, since a bad plug or ground can mimic a failed alternator. For the TIPM path: have the TIPM and its internal fuel-pump relay tested. A common, far cheaper interim fix for the fuel-pump-relay failure mode is an external fuel-pump relay bypass kit that takes the load off the failing internal relay (~$50-120 part). The full fix is replacing/rebuilding the TIPM — replacement modules run roughly $500-900 plus programming/labor, or a specialist rebuild is often more cost-effective. Inspect/clean grounds and check for water intrusion into the module. Confirm the diagnosis before throwing parts at it: scan for DTCs, monitor charging voltage with the engine running (should be ~14.1-14.4 V), and note whether the stall is preceded by electrical glitches (TIPM) or a charge/battery warning (alternator).
Sources for this issue (1)
A widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites: 1) Smart-glass / one-touch power window self-cycling — the single most-reported cause in NHTSA and CarComplaints/CarProblemZoo data (18+ "battery dead" reports concentrated on 2010-2014, plus 2018). A faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. Chrysler issued a recall on 2011 cars for a related concern, but owners of 2012+ report the same symptom with no recall. 2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) faults — the under-hood power/fuse-relay computer controls dozens of circuits and can keep a circuit "awake" or stick a relay closed, producing a steady ~1-2 A draw. TIPM failure is a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars. 3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. Owners report dealers pulling the radio fuse to confirm, then resolving it with a head-unit software re-flash (e.g., updating to 18.45.01) or radio replacement; multiple owners also report repeated radio/touchscreen failures on 2015-2017 cars. 4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit. 5) Alternator diode failure — a shorted rectifier diode lets current bleed backward through the alternator with the engine off; some owners also have a charging fault where the PCM voltage regulation is at fault, so a new alternator alone does not fix it. 6) Hellcat / supercharged charge-air-cooler (intercooler) auxiliary coolant pump not shutting off — on 2015+ supercharged cars the aux pump can fail to power down (often after coolant intrudes into the connector or a loose intake-box ground), running the pump and killing the battery in as little as 3 days; this typically also sets charge-air-cooler pump DTCs (P023B, U02A9). SRT models from 2018+ include a "Storage Mode" that reduces key-off draw and should be enabled when parking.
Common Symptoms
- Battery dead the next morning or after the car sits a few days
- Car needs a jump-start frequently despite a relatively new battery
- Power window drops and raises itself a fraction of an inch with the key off / ignition off
- Audible relay clicking or a motor/pump running after the car is shut off and locked
- Key-off parasitic draw measures well above the normal ~25-50 mA (often hundreds of mA to 2-4 A)
- New battery still goes dead and alternator tests fine
- Infotainment/Uconnect radio or touchscreen freezing, restarting, or failing to power down
- Hellcat intercooler/charge-air pump stays warm and running after shutdown
- Battery/charging warning light or flickering dash lights
- Dome, trunk, or courtesy light staying on with doors closed
How to Fix
Confirm the charging system first: load-test the battery and verify alternator output with a multimeter, including an AC-ripple check to catch a failing diode (a new battery that keeps dying with a "good" charging test points to parasitic draw, not the battery). Then perform a key-off parasitic-draw test: let the car fully sleep (30-60 minutes, doors closed), put a meter in series with the negative battery cable, and confirm the draw. Anything sustained above ~50 mA is suspect; over ~250 mA will flatten the battery overnight. Isolate the offending circuit by pulling fuses/relays one at a time (both the under-hood and trunk-area fuse boxes) and watching for the draw to drop. Common findings and fixes: - Power-window self-cycling: replace the faulty window switch or window/door module and reset window auto-up programming; have the dealer check for any applicable recall/extended-warranty coverage. - Radio/Uconnect not sleeping: confirm by pulling the radio fuse; fix with a head-unit software re-flash/update or replace the head unit if it won't sleep. - TIPM keeping a circuit awake or a stuck relay: swap/replace the suspect relay or, if confirmed, the TIPM. - Stuck door/courtesy/trunk switch or stuck dome light: replace the faulty switch. - Alternator diode: replace the alternator (and verify PCM charging control if the fault persists). - Hellcat charge-air-cooler aux pump not shutting off (P023B / U02A9): inspect/clean the intake-box ground and the pump connector for coolant intrusion; replace the auxiliary coolant pump if it won't power down. - Aftermarket accessories: move any constant-draw add-ons to a switched/ignition circuit. When storing the car, enable SRT "Storage Mode" (2018+ SRT, via steering-wheel/center-display menu) or use a battery maintainer/trickle charger to prevent recurrence.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Innova 3320 auto-ranging digital multimeter
Its DC10A input is unfused and the manual limits high-current readings; incorrect series connection can damage the meter or vehicle, so use the exact manual procedure and a current clamp/professional diagnosis when the draw may exceed th…
- NOCO GENIUS5 five-amp charger, maintainer and desulfator
Long-term-storage support after the battery and charging system are known good, or while an infrequently driven vehicle is stored Fitment: Universal 6V/12V lead-acid including AGM and lithium support; it does not locate or repair a paras…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Sources for this issue (1)
P0562 code reference
General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.
Frequently asked questions
What does P0562 mean on a Dodge?
P0562 stands for "System Voltage Low." P0562 means the engine computer detected that the vehicle's system (battery/charging) voltage is too low for normal operation. The computer constantly monitors charging-system voltage because nearly every sensor, injector, and module depends on a stable supply; sustained low voltage can cause erratic behavior and other false codes. This is most often a charging or battery problem — the alternator isn't keeping up, the battery is weak, or there's resistance in the cables/grounds. You may notice dim lights, slow cranking, or multiple unrelated warning lights. On Dodge it is documented across 5 models: Charger, Durango, Journey, Challenger, Avenger.
What are the most common causes of P0562?
The most common causes of P0562 are: Failing alternator or worn alternator brushes/regulator, Weak, old, or discharged battery, Corroded, loose, or damaged battery cables and terminals, Bad engine or chassis ground connections, Slipping, glazed, or broken serpentine/drive belt, High resistance in charging system wiring or fusible link, Faulty PCM voltage reference or charging-system control. The specific cause varies by vehicle.
How much does it cost to fix P0562 on a Dodge?
Published repair estimates on Dodge range from $10 to $2,400 depending on the model and root cause. If an issue mentions a recall or campaign, check your VIN with the manufacturer or NHTSA and confirm eligibility and coverage with a dealer.
Looking for P0562 on a different make?
View P0562 across all makes →Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.