According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1968 Chevrolet C10 has 6 documented known issues, with 3 rated critical. The most serious are Cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels rust out at the cab mounts ($800-$6,000 repair), Drop-center frame rust-through at the body mounts ($600-$4,000 repair) and Four-wheel drum brakes (1967-1970) fade and pull ($400-$1,800 repair). Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $200 to $6,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.
On the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10, the 67-72 C10 cab is a rust trap. The box-section cab supports run from the body mounts to the inner rockers and are spot-welded to both the inner rocker and the floor, so when the rockers and cab corners pack with debris and moisture (the rockers are literally cup-shaped pockets along the bottom of the cab) they rot from the inside out and take the structural cab supports with them. Cab corners behind the rockers are 'almost always rotten,' the lower door pillars rust where the hinges bolt on, and once the supports corrode the cab loses rigidity and can twist/sag on its mounts. This is the single most common reason a 'cheap' C10 turns into a major project.
Rust bubbling and holes at the lower cab corners and rocker panels
Soft/perforated floor pans under the carpet and pedals
Doors sagging or not latching as cab support sags
Rust at the bottom of the door hinge pillars
Water/dust intrusion into the cab
How to Fix
Don't chase pinholes. Restorers cut out and weld in full reproduction cab corners, rocker panels (outer AND inner rocker supports), and a complete one-piece floor pan rather than patching, then re-weld the box-section cab supports so the cab is structurally sound again. Critically: brace the door openings with 1x1 steel tubing before cutting so the cab can't twist while panels are out, restore/replace the rubber cab mount bushings, and after metalwork seal every seam, spray cavity wax/internal frame coating inside the rockers and supports, and re-open the factory drain holes so the new metal doesn't rot from the inside again.
On the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10, the drop-center frame that gives the 67-72 its low stance also traps moisture and mud in all the wrong places — most notably where the body mounts bolt through the frame rail and around the rear kick-up over the axle. Decades of trapped grime rust the rails from the inside; by the time it shows on the outside the mount areas can be paper-thin, which is dangerous because the cab/bed mounts and trailing-arm pickups all load those sections. A rotten frame is the difference between a restorable truck and a parts truck.
Flaky/scaly rust and perforation at the body-mount pads
Frame sounds dull/thin when tapped near the mounts
Crushed or rotten body mount bushings
Visible rot at the rear frame kick-up over the axle
How to Fix
Sandblast or wire-wheel the frame bare and inspect the body-mount and rear kick-up areas with a pick. Repair perforated sections with boxing/repair plate (or source a solid frame from a dry-climate truck), replace ALL the rubber body-mount bushings while it's apart, then protect it for good: internal frame coating sprayed inside the rails through the access holes plus an epoxy-primer/chassis-coat outside. Restorers doing a frame-off take the chance to media-blast, repair, and seal the whole frame so it never rots again.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsReviewed Jun 2026
On the 1967-1970 Chevrolet C10, 1967-1970 C10s used four-wheel drum brakes on a single-circuit-feel system that is marginal by modern standards. The drums fade badly with repeated or downhill stops, pull to one side when the shoes/wheel cylinders wear unevenly, and the long pedal feels vague — a real safety liability on a heavy truck driven in modern traffic. (Chevrolet only switched the 2WD trucks to front discs and the 5-lug pattern for 1971.)
Grabbing or locking from contaminated/uneven shoes
Difficulty stopping the loaded truck
How to Fix
The proven restorer upgrade is a front drum-to-disc conversion kit that bolts to the stock 6-lug spindles, paired with a correct dual-bore disc/drum master cylinder and proportioning valve (and a power booster if desired). This gives fade-free, straight, modern stopping. Many builders go a step further to a 5-lug disc spindle set to open up modern wheel choices. At minimum, restore the drums with new shoes, wheel cylinders, springs and a fresh dual master, but disc conversion is the near-universal bulletproofing path.
On the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10, early 67 trucks used a generator and the rest used a low-output, externally-regulated alternator with a separate mechanical voltage regulator that ages out and either over- or under-charges. Combined with 50-year-old brittle wiring, dirty bulkhead connectors, and breaker-point/condenser ignition that drifts out of tune (dwell and timing wander, points pit and burn), the result is hard starting, dim lights, dead batteries and inconsistent running. Modern accessories (electric fans, stereo, EFI swaps) overwhelm the original output entirely.
Engine 'run-on' or no-charge after HEI/alternator swaps wired wrong
How to Fix
Convert to a modern internally-regulated single-wire/one-wire alternator (a 10SI/CS-130 style 100A+ unit) using a conversion harness — this deletes the failure-prone external regulator and supports modern loads. On the ignition side, the standard bulletproofing move is an HEI distributor conversion (or a points-to-electronic module) which gives a hotter, maintenance-free spark and stable timing; run the proper 12-gauge switched feed to the HEI. While in there, restorers refresh the bulkhead connector and brittle engine-bay harness so charging and ignition are dead reliable.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsReviewed Jun 2026
On the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10, unlike the 3/4-ton trucks, the half-ton C10 2WD uses a coil-spring rear located by two long (~57 inch) trailing arms plus a panhard bar/track bar. The big rubber trailing-arm bushings (and the front upper/lower control-arm bushings and ball joints) perish with age, letting the rear axle move around under power and braking — a vague, floating ride and a feeling that the rear is steering the truck. Tired front bushings and ball joints add to the wander and eat front tires.
Floating/wallowing ride and rear-axle 'steer' under power
Clunks from the rear over bumps and on throttle on/off
Front-end wander and clunks, uneven front tire wear
Loose, vague handling on the highway
How to Fix
Replace all the worn bushings — rear trailing-arm bushings front and rear, the panhard/track-bar bushings, and the front upper/lower control-arm bushings — while replacing worn ball joints. Restorers who want sharper handling step up to graphite-impregnated polyurethane (poly) bushings, which are self-lubricating, remove the 'floating' feel and tighten the truck up, and some go to tubular trailing arms/control arms for a full refresh and lowering options. Always do a proper alignment afterward.
On the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10, after 50+ years the factory Saginaw recirculating-ball steering box develops slop in the worm/sector, and combined with worn idler arm, tie-rod ends, drag link and ball joints the C10 develops the classic 'wandering' feel where you're constantly correcting and the truck darts on grooved pavement. Many trucks left the factory with manual steering (or the optional ram-assist on early 67s), which only amplifies how heavy and imprecise a tired box feels.
Excessive play at the wheel before the tires respond
Truck wanders and needs constant correction
Clunk/knock over bumps from worn linkage
Heavy, vague steering (manual boxes)
Uneven front tire wear
How to Fix
First replace the worn linkage — idler arm, tie-rod ends, drag link and ball joints — and set the toe, because a fresh box won't fix worn links. Then either rebuild the original box with a Saginaw rebuild kit and re-set the sector lash, or do the popular bulletproof upgrade: swap to a quick-ratio Saginaw 605/500-series power steering box (with the matching pump, pitman arm and frame-dimple confirmed on 68-72). The result is tight, modern on-center feel that transforms how the truck drives.
According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1968 Chevrolet C10 has 6 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels rust out at the cab mounts, Drop-center frame rust-through at the body mounts, Four-wheel drum brakes (1967-1970) fade and pull. Of these, 3 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Chevrolet C10 reliable?
The 1968 Chevrolet C10 has 6 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 3 issues are rated critical: Cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels rust out at the cab mounts and Drop-center frame rust-through at the body mounts and Four-wheel drum brakes (1967-1970) fade and pull. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Chevrolet C10 problems?
Repair costs for known Chevrolet C10 issues range from $200 to $6,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels rust out at the cab mounts, typically costs $800-$6,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What is the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10 Cab corners, floor pans and rocker panels rust out at the cab mounts?
The 67-72 C10 cab is a rust trap. The box-section cab supports run from the body mounts to the inner rockers and are spot-welded to both the inner rocker and the floor, so when the rockers and cab corners pack with debris and moisture (the rockers are literally cup-shaped pockets… Repairs typically run $800-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10 Drop-center frame rust-through at the body mounts?
The drop-center frame that gives the 67-72 its low stance also traps moisture and mud in all the wrong places — most notably where the body mounts bolt through the frame rail and around the rear kick-up over the axle. Decades of trapped grime rust the rails from the inside; by th… Repairs typically run $600-$4,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1967-1970 Chevrolet C10 Four-wheel drum brakes (1967-1970) fade and pull?
1967-1970 C10s used four-wheel drum brakes on a single-circuit-feel system that is marginal by modern standards. The drums fade badly with repeated or downhill stops, pull to one side when the shoes/wheel cylinders wear unevenly, and the long pedal feels vague — a real safety lia… Repairs typically run $400-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10 External-regulator generator/alternator charging and points ignition are unreliable?
Early 67 trucks used a generator and the rest used a low-output, externally-regulated alternator with a separate mechanical voltage regulator that ages out and either over- or under-charges. Combined with 50-year-old brittle wiring, dirty bulkhead connectors, and breaker-point/co… Repairs typically run $200-$900. Severity: medium.
What is the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10 Worn rear trailing-arm and front control-arm bushings cause float and rear steer?
Unlike the 3/4-ton trucks, the half-ton C10 2WD uses a coil-spring rear located by two long (~57 inch) trailing arms plus a panhard bar/track bar. The big rubber trailing-arm bushings (and the front upper/lower control-arm bushings and ball joints) perish with age, letting the re… Repairs typically run $200-$1,200. Severity: medium.
What is the 1967-1972 Chevrolet C10 Worn steering box and front-end linkage cause vague, wandering steering?
After 50+ years the factory Saginaw recirculating-ball steering box develops slop in the worm/sector, and combined with worn idler arm, tie-rod ends, drag link and ball joints the C10 develops the classic 'wandering' feel where you're constantly correcting and the truck darts on… Repairs typically run $250-$1,500. Severity: medium.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
