P023B on Dodge: How to Diagnose & Fix
Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low
1 Dodge model · 1 documented issue · $140-$1,200 repair
P023B on Dodge by model: symptoms, diagnosis and fix
A widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites: 1) Smart-glass / one-touch power window self-cycling — the single most-reported cause in NHTSA and CarComplaints/CarProblemZoo data (18+ "battery dead" reports concentrated on 2010-2014, plus 2018). A faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. Chrysler issued a recall on 2011 cars for a related concern, but owners of 2012+ report the same symptom with no recall. 2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) faults — the under-hood power/fuse-relay computer controls dozens of circuits and can keep a circuit "awake" or stick a relay closed, producing a steady ~1-2 A draw. TIPM failure is a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars. 3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. Owners report dealers pulling the radio fuse to confirm, then resolving it with a head-unit software re-flash (e.g., updating to 18.45.01) or radio replacement; multiple owners also report repeated radio/touchscreen failures on 2015-2017 cars. 4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit. 5) Alternator diode failure — a shorted rectifier diode lets current bleed backward through the alternator with the engine off; some owners also have a charging fault where the PCM voltage regulation is at fault, so a new alternator alone does not fix it. 6) Hellcat / supercharged charge-air-cooler (intercooler) auxiliary coolant pump not shutting off — on 2015+ supercharged cars the aux pump can fail to power down (often after coolant intrudes into the connector or a loose intake-box ground), running the pump and killing the battery in as little as 3 days; this typically also sets charge-air-cooler pump DTCs (P023B, U02A9). SRT models from 2018+ include a "Storage Mode" that reduces key-off draw and should be enabled when parking.
Common Symptoms
- Battery dead the next morning or after the car sits a few days
- Car needs a jump-start frequently despite a relatively new battery
- Power window drops and raises itself a fraction of an inch with the key off / ignition off
- Audible relay clicking or a motor/pump running after the car is shut off and locked
- Key-off parasitic draw measures well above the normal ~25-50 mA (often hundreds of mA to 2-4 A)
- New battery still goes dead and alternator tests fine
- Infotainment/Uconnect radio or touchscreen freezing, restarting, or failing to power down
- Hellcat intercooler/charge-air pump stays warm and running after shutdown
- Battery/charging warning light or flickering dash lights
- Dome, trunk, or courtesy light staying on with doors closed
How to Fix
Confirm the charging system first: load-test the battery and verify alternator output with a multimeter, including an AC-ripple check to catch a failing diode (a new battery that keeps dying with a "good" charging test points to parasitic draw, not the battery). Then perform a key-off parasitic-draw test: let the car fully sleep (30-60 minutes, doors closed), put a meter in series with the negative battery cable, and confirm the draw. Anything sustained above ~50 mA is suspect; over ~250 mA will flatten the battery overnight. Isolate the offending circuit by pulling fuses/relays one at a time (both the under-hood and trunk-area fuse boxes) and watching for the draw to drop. Common findings and fixes: - Power-window self-cycling: replace the faulty window switch or window/door module and reset window auto-up programming; have the dealer check for any applicable recall/extended-warranty coverage. - Radio/Uconnect not sleeping: confirm by pulling the radio fuse; fix with a head-unit software re-flash/update or replace the head unit if it won't sleep. - TIPM keeping a circuit awake or a stuck relay: swap/replace the suspect relay or, if confirmed, the TIPM. - Stuck door/courtesy/trunk switch or stuck dome light: replace the faulty switch. - Alternator diode: replace the alternator (and verify PCM charging control if the fault persists). - Hellcat charge-air-cooler aux pump not shutting off (P023B / U02A9): inspect/clean the intake-box ground and the pump connector for coolant intrusion; replace the auxiliary coolant pump if it won't power down. - Aftermarket accessories: move any constant-draw add-ons to a switched/ignition circuit. When storing the car, enable SRT "Storage Mode" (2018+ SRT, via steering-wheel/center-display menu) or use a battery maintainer/trickle charger to prevent recurrence.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
- Innova 3320 auto-ranging digital multimeter
Its DC10A input is unfused and the manual limits high-current readings; incorrect series connection can damage the meter or vehicle, so use the exact manual procedure and a current clamp/professional diagnosis when the draw may exceed th…
- NOCO GENIUS5 five-amp charger, maintainer and desulfator
Long-term-storage support after the battery and charging system are known good, or while an infrequently driven vehicle is stored Fitment: Universal 6V/12V lead-acid including AGM and lithium support; it does not locate or repair a paras…
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Sources for this issue (1)
P023B code reference
General diagnostic-code context. The code alone does not confirm a cause for your vehicle; use the applicable issue card and its sources.
Frequently asked questions
What does P023B mean on a Dodge?
P023B stands for "Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low." The PCM detected a low-voltage (short-to-ground) condition in the charge air cooler (water-to-air intercooler) coolant pump control circuit. On Dodge it is documented across 1 model: Challenger.
What are the most common causes of P023B?
The most common causes of P023B are: Short-to-ground in the pump control wiring, Failed coolant pump, Corroded connector, PCM output driver fault. The specific cause varies by vehicle.
How much does it cost to fix P023B on a Dodge?
Published repair estimates on Dodge range from $140 to $1,200 depending on the model and root cause. If an issue mentions a recall or campaign, check your VIN with the manufacturer or NHTSA and confirm eligibility and coverage with a dealer.
Looking for P023B on a different make?
View P023B across all makes →Content compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, and owner reports. May contain errors. Always verify with your vehicle's service manual.