According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA has 62 documented known issues, with 25 rated critical. The most serious are Chassis Rust — Rear Crossmember, Outriggers & Spring Hangers Rot Out ($1,500-$6,000 repair), Single-Circuit Drum Brakes — Notoriously Hard to Bleed, Weak & No Fail-Safe ($400-$1,800 repair), Swivel ball pitting/corrosion cuts the seals, leaking oil and ruining steering feel ($150-$600 repair), 2.25 diesel cracked / porous cylinder block (cracks adjacent to the bores and between 3 & 4) ($300-$1,800 repair), 2.6 straight-six: burnt exhaust valves and soft (unleaded-incompatible) exhaust seats ($200-$1,000 repair), Brake master cylinder seizes/leaks and steel brake pipes corrode through ($150-$600 repair), Front Dumb Irons / Frame Horns Corrode at the Bumper & Front Spring Mount.
What are the most common Land Rover Series IIA problems?
According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA has 62 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Chassis Rust — Rear Crossmember, Outriggers & Spring Hangers Rot Out, Single-Circuit Drum Brakes — Notoriously Hard to Bleed, Weak & No Fail-Safe, Swivel ball pitting/corrosion cuts the seals, leaking oil and ruining steering feel. Of these, 25 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Land Rover Series IIA reliable?
The 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA has 62 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 25 issues are rated critical: Chassis Rust — Rear Crossmember, Outriggers & Spring Hangers Rot Out and Single-Circuit Drum Brakes — Notoriously Hard to Bleed, Weak & No Fail-Safe and Swivel ball pitting/corrosion cuts the seals, leaking oil and ruining steering feel and 2.25 diesel cracked / porous cylinder block (cracks adjacent to the bores and between 3 & 4) and 2.6 straight-six: burnt exhaust valves and soft (unleaded-incompatible) exhaust seats and Brake master cylinder seizes/leaks and steel brake pipes corrode through and Front Dumb Irons / Frame Horns Corrode at the Bumper & Front Spring Mount and Front Swivel Ball Pitting and Swivel Housing Oil Leaks and Rear Spring Hanger / Rear Outrigger Corrosion (suspension mount lets go) and Rotten Bulkhead (Firewall) — Footwells, Door Pillars & Top Rail Corrode From the Inside and Steering drop-arm works loose on its splines / splines wear, losing steering and Steering relay box seizes, fills with water/rust, or develops shaft play and Transmission (driveline) handbrake drum worn and ineffective, won't hold on a slope and Wheel (slave) cylinders seize, bind or leak fluid onto the shoes and Rear Half-Shaft Snaps Off Inside the Differential (10-Spline ENV/Salisbury Axle) and Series IIA Rear Crossmember Rots Out (the classic MOT-failure chassis weak point) and Bulkhead/Body Mount Outriggers Rust Through (front of chassis mid-section) and Bulkhead Footwells Rot Out (steel footwells corrode from fluid + trapped mud) and 2.25 cylinder head cracks between the valve seats (and head-to-block between No.3 and No.4) and Gearbox Jumps Out of 3rd/4th — Worn 2nd/3rd Mainshaft Bronze Bush and Three-bearing crankshaft flex and breakage under hard use (especially 2.25 diesel) and Track-rod and drag-link ball joints (rod ends) wear out, giving play and MOT failure and Bulkhead Top Rail & Windscreen-Hinge Corner Corrosion (water trap below the screen) and Lucas Dynamo and RB106/Control-Box Charging Failure and Underpowered single-circuit drum brakes prone to fade and side-to-side imbalance. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
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The box-section ladder chassis is only painted steel, and it fills with mud and water through the open ends and dumb-iron holes. On a IIA the rear crossmember, the body outriggers, the rear spring hangers and the area around the fuel-tank cradle rot from the inside, so a chassis that looks solid can be paper-thin internally. A failed rear crossmember or spring hanger is an MOT failure and a safety issue (tow-hitch and suspension mounting). Decades of off-road use and wet storage make this near-universal on un-restored IIAs.
Flaking/scaling and perforation on the rear crossmember
Crunchy, soft outriggers where the body mounts to the chassis
Cracks or holes around the rear spring hangers
MOT advisory or failure for corroded chassis/structure
Loose body mounts and a tail-happy, flexing rear end
How to Fix
The proven restorer fix is not welding patch plates onto a tired chassis — it is fitting a NEW hot-dip galvanized galvanised chassis (Richards/Marsland/Shielder), which never needs underseal and ends the rust problem permanently. Where the original chassis is saved for originality, restorers cut out and replace the rear crossmember and outriggers with galvanized repair sections, then internally treat the box sections (wax/ML or dynax cavity wax through drilled access holes) before sealing. Galvanizing the whole frame is the single highest-value 'bulletproofing' spend on a Series restoration.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR250 88-inch rear crossmember with extensions and spring hangers
OEMLR250
Replace the rear crossmember and adjacent rail ends on a structurally repairable 88-inch chassis Fitment/availability: Series 88-inch repair section with extensions and spring hangers; confirm chassis suffix, civilian/military layout, fu…
LR252 109-inch rear quarter chassis with extensions and spring hangers
OEMLR252
Replace the rear quarter of a structurally repairable 109-inch chassis Fitment/availability: Series 109-inch rear quarter section; verify body type, chassis suffix, civilian/military/One-Ton status, tank and exhaust routing, spring-hange…
The front 'dumb irons' (frame horns) that carry the front bumper and the front shackle/spring mount are a documented Series rot spot. Water and mud pack into the closed ends, and the internal crush/spreader plates inside the bumper-bolt holes hold moisture against the steel, so the dumb iron rots from the inside at the spring mount and at the very front of the leg. As they are the foremost chassis structure and a recovery/jacking point, failure here is structural and an MOT item.
Rust/perforation at the bumper-mount face and front of the frame horn
Crumbly metal around the front spring/shackle mount
Bumper feels loose or mount cracking
Water/rust runs out when the bumper bolts are removed
MOT failure for corrosion at a chassis extremity
How to Fix
Cut out all the corroded section (keeping minimal original) and weld in a NEW dumb-iron / front-frame-horn repair section. Restorer best practice when refurbishing: remove the internal crush plate for the bumper mount and replace it with a steel TUBE sleeving the bolt holes (stronger, won't trap water), and drill small drainage holes at the low point so the horn can never fill again. Galvanise or thoroughly cavity-wax the repair. Many owners do the dumb irons as part of fitting a galvanised front chassis section.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA2008N left-hand front dumb-iron/chassis-leg repair
OEMDA2008N
Replace a structurally failed left front dumb iron on a repairable chassis Fitment/availability: Left-hand front chassis leg for Land Rover Series 88/109 applications per vendor; verify spring-hanger, bumper, steering, civilian/military …
DA2008O right-hand front dumb-iron/chassis-leg repair
OEMDA2008O
Replace a structurally failed right front dumb iron on a repairable chassis Fitment/availability: Right-hand front chassis leg for Land Rover Series 88/109 applications per vendor; verify spring-hanger, bumper, steering, civilian/militar…
The Series IIA's pressed-steel bulkhead is the single most expensive thing to get wrong on a restoration. It is a double-skinned structure that traps moisture, so it rots from the inside out — long before the surface looks bad. The classic failure zones are the footwells (under the rubber mats where water sits), the lower door pillars/A-posts, the top rail above the vents, the vent-flap apertures, and the steering-column/pedal-box mounting area. Because the bulkhead carries the doors, windscreen, steering column and pedal box, a soft bulkhead means doors that won't shut, a flexing steering mount and MOT/structural failure. Original double-skinning is the root cause: it creates rust traps that ordinary surface treatment can never reach.
Soft/crumbly metal in footwells under the floor mats
Rust bubbling at the base of the door pillars (A-posts)
Doors dropping or not latching as the bulkhead sags
Flaking and perforation along the top rail and around the vent flaps
Damp/leaks into the cab around the windscreen and pedals
How to Fix
Restorers do not patch a far-gone bulkhead cosmetically — they cut out the rotten footwells, pillars and top rail and let in NEW heavy-gauge steel sections fabricated in a jig, then hot-dip galvanize (or zinc-prime + epoxy) the whole shell so it 'lasts another 30 years.' The bulletproofing move on a full restoration is to fit a modern galvanized replacement bulkhead (e.g. Shielder), which is deliberately built SINGLE-SKIN to eliminate the original moisture/rust traps, then powder-coat over the galvanizing. Where the original is kept, it's run through a dunk/rust-conversion tank internally and sealed with PPG corrosion-resistant epoxy primer. Galvanize any steel brackets that touch the aluminium body to stop galvanic corrosion.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
The bolt-up rear crossmember of the Series IIA box-section chassis is the single most notorious rot point on the vehicle. It sits low at the back where it collects road spray, mud and water, and the closed box section traps moisture from the inside out. Rust starts in the vertical section where the chassis rail joins the crossmember and along the bottom face of the crossmember itself, then spreads forward into the rear chassis rails - owners commonly find rot extending 12-13 inches forward of the crossmember. Because the rear body, towing and (on 109in) chassis structure all load this member, perforation here is an immediate structural/MOT failure, not cosmetic.
Flaking/scaling rust along the bottom and ends of the rear crossmember
Soft spots that give way under a hammer tap
Holes appearing where the rear chassis rail meets the crossmember
MOT/structural advisory or failure for corrosion in a prescribed area
Rear of vehicle/tow point feels flexible
How to Fix
The proven fix is to cut out the rotten member and weld in a NEW GALVANISED rear crossmember (full member, or a half/rear-quarter repair section that overlaps the sound original chassis by ~4 inches). Restorers stress this must be done properly by a Land-Rover-familiar welder, not a backstreet patch - 'installing the weld-in crossmember is almost as much hell as doing a frame swap if you do it properly.' Where the rot has run forward into the rails as well, many owners conclude a full galvanised replacement chassis is the better-value bulletproofing - 'if you have the frame, change it, you will have an almost new vehicle afterwards.' Assess extent first with the classic hammer-tap test over the whole frame, then cavity-wax the inside of the new member.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Separate from the spring hangers, the bolt-on outriggers that support the bulkhead and seat-box/body mounts rot independently. They are short box-section legs sticking out from the main rails, open to road spray, and they trap mud where the body and bulkhead bolt down. Because they carry the bulkhead (and therefore the whole front body and steering column relationship), corrosion here lets the bulkhead drop or move and is a structural MOT item. Rot is also commonly found ON THE CHASSIS RAIL ITSELF directly behind the outrigger, hidden by the outrigger flange.
Perforated or flaking outrigger box sections mid-chassis
Rust hidden on the chassis rail behind the outrigger flange
Bulkhead or body sitting low / misaligned doors
Body mount bolts seized/rotted into the outrigger
MOT failure for corroded body/chassis mounting
How to Fix
Each outrigger is cut away from the rail/diagonal brace and a NEW GALVANISED outrigger welded in individually - they are sold as bolt-on/weld-on items specifically because they are designed to be a serviceable wear part. Use galvanised replacements and treat/patch the chassis rail behind the outrigger at the same time (quality outriggers include a chassis patch in their length to cover the hole usually found behind the old one). Upgrade the bulkhead-to-outrigger fixings to stainless (A4) so the joint can be undone next time instead of rotting solid. Cavity-wax the new outriggers internally.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
The steel bulkhead footwells are the most consistently rotten part of the Series IIA bulkhead. They sit at the lowest point of the bulkhead and collect water, mud and leaves, and the master-cylinder area gets attacked by spilled brake/clutch fluid which strips paint and accelerates rust. The original footwell area is DOUBLE-PLATED (two layers of steel sandwiched), which traps moisture between the skins and rots from the inside out where it can't be seen or galvanised. Result is holes in both footwells and crumbling lower kick panels - a structural part of the bulkhead.
Holes in the footwell floors / daylight through the bulkhead
Bubbling, lifting paint around the master cylinders
Soft, crunchy lower kick panels
Wet carpet/floor and visible flaking rust scale
Pedal box area feels flexible
How to Fix
Cut out the rotten footwell and weld in a new GALVANISED footwell repair section (RHD/LHD specific). For a true bulletproofing rebuild, restorers send the whole bulkhead away for 360-degree shot-blasting, replace footwells and lower sections in heavier-gauge or galvanised steel, then dunk-tank / epoxy-prime inside and out. The strongest long-term answer is a full hot-dip GALVANISED replacement bulkhead with single-skin (not double-plated) footwells specifically re-engineered so the steel can actually be galvanised right through.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
YRM033 ribbed left footwell repair panel
OEMYRM033
Replace a rusted left footwell on a right-hand-drive vehicle Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA/III 1958-1985, 88/109/127-inch RHD left-hand side per maker; verify adjacent pillar, tunnel and pedal/steering apertures before cutting.
Replace a rusted right footwell on a right-hand-drive vehicle Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA/III 1958-1985, 88/109/127-inch RHD right-hand side per maker; confirm pedal-box and surrounding pillar condition.
Replace a rusted left footwell on a left-hand-drive vehicle Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA/III 1958-1985, 88/109/127-inch LHD left-hand side per maker; confirm pedal/steering layout and surrounding structure.
Replace a rusted right footwell on a left-hand-drive vehicle Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA/III 1958-1985, 88/109/127-inch LHD right-hand side per maker; verify tunnel, pillar and heater-related apertures.
The top rail of the bulkhead and the upper corners around the windscreen hinges are a separate, high-up rot zone. Water runs down off the windscreen seal and gets in around the bolts that fix the windscreen frame to the bulkhead, then sits in the top rail and the corner boxes where it can't drain. This causes bubbling paint and then perforation along the upper bulkhead and serious rust high in the door posts. Because the screen and (on some) the dash/instrument mounts hang off this rail, it is a structural and weatherproofing failure, not just cosmetic.
Rust streaks/perforation around the windscreen hinge bolts
Water dripping into the cab from the top of the bulkhead
Crumbling metal high in the A-post/door post
Windscreen frame loose at the hinge mounts
How to Fix
The corroded windscreen-hinge mounts and top-rail sections are cut out and new fabricated/galvanised sections welded in (East Coast Rover: 'very serious rust damage high in the door post and along the upper sections of the bulkhead... the only solution: cut it all out and fabricate new panels'). Reseal the windscreen-to-bulkhead joint properly and use a closed-cell (non-water-holding) seal. On a full rebuild, a galvanised bulkhead with sealed/galvanised top corners removes the trap for good.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
YRM229 top-of-vent bulkhead repair panel
OEMYRM229
Replace corrosion along the upper edge of the bulkhead vent panel when the hinge corners remain separately repairable Fitment/availability: Maker lists Land Rover Series II/IIA/III and Defender applications; this strip repairs the top-of…
A distinct bulkhead failure is around the two air-vent flap apertures on the front face of the bulkhead. The original Series rubber vent seals are a notorious RUST TRAP: they sit against the steel and hold water against the aperture edges, and water entering around the windscreen bolts drains down into the same area. The result is corrosion around the vent-flap surrounds and the front face of the bulkhead - one of the most common rust spots on the bulkhead and easy to overlook because it hides under the flaps.
Rust and perforation around the vent-flap openings
Soggy/rotten original rubber vent seals
Water entering the footwell when it rains
Bubbling paint on the front face of the bulkhead beside the vents
How to Fix
Repair or replace the vent-aperture surrounds with new steel/galvanised sections, then DELETE the original water-holding rubber seal in favour of the closed-cell foam (Defender-type) seal that sticks to the vent flap and does not hold water - the proven owner fix to stop the area re-rotting. Make sure the vent drain paths are clear and the windscreen-to-bulkhead joint above is resealed so water stops feeding the area.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
JAE000030 pair of bulkhead ventilation flap seals
OEMJAE000030 x2 / replaces 330621
Confirm the restoration's flap/recess arrangement and follow the
The front-end bodywork is a separate corrosion zone: the inner wing tops, the radiator/headlamp panel and the bonnet frame all suffer. The alloy wing tops and the front grille/radiator panel corrode (the bottom of the front grille panel commonly 'falling apart'), and the steel-reinforced bonnet frame develops multiple corrosion holes. Headlamp surround rings also corrode. On Series IIA built before 1969 the headlamps sit in the grille panel; from 1969 they moved out into the wings, so later IIAs additionally rot around the new wing-mounted headlamp apertures.
Rust around wing-mounted headlamp apertures on 1969-71 cars
How to Fix
Replace the rotten radiator/headlamp panel with a new panel (well supported as a repro part) welded/riveted in, fit new inner-wing/wing-top repair sections, and repair the bonnet frame - owners form mild-steel reinforcement pieces and cold-weld them internally rather than welding the thin frame. Use stainless headlamp rings to stop them corroding again. Insulate any steel-to-alloy joints in the front end (plastic washers/mastic) and keep cavities waxed, since this area is exposed straight to road spray.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLB472 early European Series IIA radiator/headlamp panel
OEMPLB472 / 336466
Replace a structurally rotten early centre-headlamp radiator panel Fitment/availability: Unique European early Series IIA 88/109 1961-1968 except NADA, with raised pressed headlamp surround. Confirm headlamp position, radiator mounts, bo…
Series IIA doors have a MILD-STEEL inner frame with the aluminium (Birmabright) outer skin folded around the edges and bottom. Water gets trapped between the steel frame and the alloy skin at the bottom of the door, and the dissimilar metals set up galvanic corrosion. The steel frame rusts first - seen as brown flakes pushing the paint up along the door bottoms - and in bad cases the bottom of the steel frame crumbles entirely, leaving the alloy outer skin flapping loose at the bottom.
Brown rust flakes and bubbling along the door bottoms
Alloy outer skin loose/peeling away at the bottom edge
Holes in the lower steel door frame
Doors heavy/sagging on the hinges
White powdery alloy corrosion where skin meets frame
How to Fix
Ease the folded aluminium skin back off the frame (hold it clear with a soft timber wedge), cut out the rotten lower steel frame and weld in a new door-frame repair section or fit a complete new galvanised inner frame, then re-dress the skin over it. To stop it recurring, ISOLATE the two metals: put a non-conductive barrier (rubber sheet, gasket paper or thick mastic) between the steel frame and the alloy skin, and where any new alloy is needed use 5251-grade aluminium (closest to original Birmabright). Drain the door bottoms.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
SKU 037 Series bottom/side door-frame repair section
OEM037
Replace a localized rotten lower or side steel frame channel after the remaining door is proven structurally recoverable Fitment/availability: Live page identifies a 91.5 cm bare-steel Series door-frame section usable on the bottom, rear…
Beyond doors and seat box, the Birmabright aluminium panels suffer galvanic 'white-spot' corrosion everywhere a steel fastener or bracket bolts through them - wing-top fixings, mudguard/wing brackets, capping screws, tub fixings, hinge plates. Salt-laden water bridges the dissimilar metals (it does not need to be immersed - the small current flows even in just damp/salty air), and the aluminium pits and powders into white crusty corrosion that eats through the panel around the bolt. Front wing/mudguard brackets in particular are commonly found 'completely rotten due to galvanic corrosion between two different metals.'
White, powdery crusty corrosion around steel bolts in alloy panels
Pitting and holes in the aluminium next to brackets/fixings
Wing-top and mudguard brackets crumbling away
Capping/fixing screws seized into corroded alloy
Bubbling/lifting around panel fasteners
How to Fix
The only durable fix is to break the metal-to-metal couple at every steel-to-alloy junction: insulate fixings with nylon/plastic washers and isolation gaskets, bed joints in jointing compound or thick mastic, and where possible switch fasteners to stainless and add a barrier so steel never sits bare against the alloy. Replace destroyed alloy brackets/panels in 5251-grade aluminium, fixing with countersunk rivets and a sealant (JB-Weld/mastic) to seal the joint. Keep the panels painted and re-wax cavities, because the reaction restarts wherever bare metals touch again.
The seat box and the steel tub-floor supports are a documented corrosion zone. The aluminium floor sits on/against steel supports and steel seat-box panels, water and grit collect in the seat box (and around the battery on battery-under-seat cars), and the steel support corrodes hard where it contacts the alloy floor (galvanic + crevice corrosion). The seat box is a stressed body member bolted to the chassis, sill and pillar, so heavy corrosion here weakens body mounting and lets the floor go through.
Corroded alloy floor along the steel support lines
Loose seat box / seat moving
White alloy corrosion and pitting at floor-to-support contact
Battery tray area rotten on under-seat-battery cars
How to Fix
Remove the seat box (front-edge bolts to chassis in each footwell, rear-edge line of bolts, plus the bolts tying it to sill and pillar) and either weld in new steel/galvanised seat-box and floor-support sections or fit a complete new galvanised seat box. Where the alloy floor has corroded at the contact line, cold-weld/rivet in 5251-grade alloy patches. Crucially, GALVANISE or insulate any steel that touches the aluminium floor, and seal the joints, to break the galvanic couple. Coatings like POR-15 on the steel are used by owners as added insurance.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLC069 / 347200 flat-pack seat-box assembly
OEMPLC069 / 347200 / RNC069
Confirm RHD/LHD, battery/toolbox, handbrake, tank, seat and tunnel a
Pre-1968 IIAs use an unservoed, SINGLE-circuit drum brake system that is genuinely poor by modern standards and dangerous because one leak loses ALL braking. The design also traps air and is notoriously hard to bleed: the compression-barrel master cylinder sits at an angle so air collects in the rear of the bore, and on the 109 each front wheel has twin leading-shoe cylinders with the bleed screw at the bottom, so the upper cylinder traps air. Even when new these were difficult to bleed; on a 50-year-old truck with heavy use the pedal goes soft and stopping power is marginal.
Long, soft brake pedal that won't firm up no matter how much you bleed
Pulling to one side under braking
Total brake loss from a single fluid leak (no second circuit)
Very high pedal effort / poor stopping at speed
Air repeatedly returning to the system after bleeding
How to Fix
The restorer fix is to convert to a later dual-circuit, servo-assisted setup: fit a late-IIA/Series III pedal box and tower, a vacuum servo (the Santana / Defender Type 50 8-inch servo gives more boost than the small 6-inch Series servo and bolts in), separate brake and clutch master cylinders with their own reservoirs, and new brake pipes. This keeps the master cylinder level (so it self-bleeds), gives a fail-safe split circuit, and transforms the pedal. Many also fit larger-diameter front brake cylinders or a front disc-brake conversion on heavily-used 109s for real stopping power.
On vehicles that have stood, the original master cylinder bore corrodes and the rubber seals harden, so the cylinder either seizes solid, fails to build pressure (pedal sinks to the floor), or leaks fluid internally/externally. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and is rarely changed on these old trucks, which rots the bore from the inside. In parallel the steel brake pipes — especially where they run along the chassis and pick up road salt — corrode externally and eventually weep or burst, which on a single-line system means complete brake failure. Forum owners also report new aftermarket master cylinders (e.g. budget Allmakes) arriving DOA or weeping.
Visible corrosion or weeping on chassis brake lines
How to Fix
Strip and inspect the master cylinder bore; if the bore is pitted, do not just re-kit it — fit a new quality unit (genuine/Bearmach) or have the bore re-sleeved in stainless/brass. Renew ALL steel brake pipes in cupro-nickel (Kunifer), which does not corrode, and renew flexible hoses (consider braided). Switch to and regularly flush DOT 4 fluid every couple of years. As with the headline brake job, take the opportunity to fit a dual-circuit master so one pipe failure no longer loses everything.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
520849 early 88-inch CB brake master cylinder
OEM520849
Replace a pitted or seized early 88-inch CB-type master cylinder Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA 88-inch CB type up to the listed chassis-number break; verify large rear nut, bore, remote reservoir, pushrod and line fitting before or…
Replace a pitted or seized later 88-inch single-circuit non-power CV master Fitment/availability: Brake application is Series IIA 88-inch 1967-1968 and similar single-circuit remote-reservoir branch per vendor; also used as a clutch mast…
Replace a failed early 109-inch CB master cylinder Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA 109-inch 1958-1967 CB type per supplier; choose the stocked manufacturer option and verify single-circuit, remote/non-integral servo layout, pushrod a…
The Series IIA parking brake is a separate drum mounted on the rear of the transfer box (a transmission/driveline brake acting on the propshaft), NOT on the wheels. The internal shoes, linings, return spring and the expander wear, and the drum glazes/scores, so the lever pulls a long way and the truck rolls on a hill even with the brake hard on. Oil leaking from the transfer-box output seal onto the handbrake drum is a classic contaminator that destroys what little grip is left. Because it acts through the transmission, a worn handbrake is also a real safety/MOT problem.
Strip the transmission brake, renew the shoes/linings, return spring and worn expander, and de-glaze or replace the scored drum. Crucially, cure any transfer-box output oil seal leak FIRST (a fresh seal) so oil can't re-contaminate the linings. Adjust correctly in the right order — set the drum-brake shoe adjustment first, then take up the cable/rod at the lever, because cable adjustment is useless until the shoes are set. Keep the drum and linings oil-free.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LRC3459 Series transmission-handbrake shoe/expander/adjuster kit
OEMLRC3459
Renew contaminated or worn shoes and operating hardware after the oil source and dimensions are confirmed Fitment/availability: Live direct page lists an in-stock configurable kit containing STC3821 shoes plus expander, springs, seals, s…
The drum wheel cylinders seize from corrosion and lack of use, which causes brakes that drag/bind (one wheel runs hot, pulls to one side, kills fuel economy) or pistons that won't return so the brake locks on after warming up. When the cylinder seal fails it weeps fluid past the dust boot and contaminates the brake linings — oil/fluid-soaked shoes then grab unpredictably or simply don't bite. The 109/LWB has TWIN leading-shoe front cylinders, which doubles the seize/leak points up front and makes the system notoriously hard to bleed.
Rebuild or (better) replace all four/five wheel cylinders with quality units; if a cylinder bore is pitted, replace rather than hone-and-kit. Always renew the brake shoes if they have been fluid-contaminated — contaminated linings cannot be cleaned and must be discarded. Free off and grease the snail-cam adjusters on reassembly. On the twin-leading-shoe LWB front, bleed methodically (pressure or one-man bleeder helps) to clear the awkward dual cylinders. Keep the system on fresh fluid to stop future seizure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLB535 right-hand 88 front / 109 rear wheel cylinder
OEMPLB535
Confirm axle, side, drum and existing casting before purchase.
PLB541 left-hand front 11-inch cylinder for 109 2.25 four-cylinder
OEMPLB541
Replace a matching left-front twin-leading-shoe cylinder Fitment/availability: Live page identifies top/bottom left-front use on 109 four-cylinder 11-inch brakes, with two cylinders used per wheel. Not the 2.6 six-cylinder branch.
PLB542 right-hand front 11-inch cylinder for 109 2.25 four-cylinder
OEMPLB542
Replace a matching right-front twin-leading-shoe cylinder after supplier confirmation Fitment/availability: Page title/SKU identify right-hand front 109 four-cylinder 11-inch fitment and two per wheel, but live body text contains a left-…
The Series IIA runs an all-drum, single-line (single-circuit) hydraulic brake system: a single failure point anywhere in the system (one corroded pipe, one leaking cylinder, one perished hose) loses ALL braking, and the small 10-inch drums (11-inch on the heavier 109/6-cyl) were marginal even when new. The weak point shows up as long pedal travel, poor stopping power, brake fade on long descents (drums hold heat), and pulling to one side under braking because the leading/trailing shoe drums and snail-cam adjusters wear and bed unevenly between sides. A 109 Station Wagon or six-cylinder loaded for restoration/touring duty will badly out-mass its brakes.
The community bulletproofing path: first do a full hydraulic rebuild with quality (genuine/Bearmach) cylinders, shoes and drums, and convert the original single-line system to a DUAL-circuit master cylinder (front/rear split) for failsafe redundancy. For owners who want modern stopping power, the proven upgrade is a Series III front DISC-brake swivel/axle conversion (or a dedicated disc kit), retaining drums at the rear, and adding/servicing a remote brake servo. Use braided or new steel pipes throughout and bed shoes/pads in properly. Keep adjusters and snail cams set close so pedal is firm.
The Series drum brakes are set with manual snail-cam (eccentric) adjusters — there is no self-adjustment. Over time the cam faces and the shoe tips wear, the adjusters seize from corrosion, and worn shoes/oversize drums mean you simply can't bring the lining close enough to the drum. The result is a permanently long, spongy pedal and uneven braking between sides because each corner ends up adjusted differently. Owners describe brake adjustment on Series Landies as a perennial frustration: a 'good' pedal depends on having good lining, correct-diameter drums and unworn cams all at once.
Free off (or renew) the snail-cam adjusters and grease them. Renew shoes and have drums measured/skimmed or replaced if they are out of round or over the wear limit, because adjusters can only do their job with in-spec drums and full-thickness linings. Set up each corner by the book — jack the wheel, tighten the adjuster until the drum locks, then back off until it spins freely — and balance both sides equally so the truck pulls straight. Keep the cams greased to stay adjustable.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLE588S stainless brake-shoe adjuster kit
OEMPLE588S / replaces RTC3176
Replace two worn or seized snail-cam adjusters on one identified axle Fitment/availability: Live page lists Series II/IIA/III, includes cams for both 10- and 11-inch drums, and states one kit services one axle/two adjusters; use only the…
The 2.25 diesel block can crack in the deck between cylinders 3 and 4 or alongside the bores, and there is a known 'porous block' weakness where hairline cracks open next to the bore and weep coolant into the cylinder or sump. Higher diesel compression and combustion pressure, plus hard work and overheating, drive it. The result is coolant loss with no external leak, coolant in the oil, white smoke, and a block that will not hold a head gasket no matter how many are fitted.
Common Symptoms
Persistent coolant loss with no external leak
Coolant in oil after the head/gasket is proven good
Overheating
Head gasket fails repeatedly on the same engine
White smoke / coolant in a cylinder
How to Fix
Confirm with a pressure/dye test before condemning a head gasket repeatedly. The lasting community fix is to fit a sound block — a good used unit or an ACR (Automotive Component Remanufacturing) remanufactured 2.25/2.5 diesel block. As a stop-gap while a replacement is sourced, a crack adjacent to the deck can be metal-stitched (cold-stitched) for a reliable long-term repair, and minor porosity can be held for a year or two with a chemical block sealer. Always fix the overheating cause first so the replacement block does not crack again.
The 2.6 six-cylinder fitted to the long-wheelbase IIA from 1967 is high-maintenance and its defining weakness is burning exhaust valves. The cast-iron seats were designed around leaded fuel, so on modern unleaded the unprotected exhaust seats recess and the valves burn, and the engine cracks heads when worked hard. It is made worse because the rear exhaust valves are awkward to access and so their clearances get neglected — tight valves don't seat fully and burn. Symptoms are misfire, low compression on a cylinder, popping back through the exhaust and power loss.
Common Symptoms
Misfire / dead cylinder
Low or zero compression on one cylinder
Popping/backfire through the exhaust
Power loss, especially under load
Cracked head when worked hard
How to Fix
Have the head reconditioned with hardened (stellite/induction-hardened) exhaust valve seats and new valves so it runs reliably on unleaded — the standard bulletproofing the 2.6 community does. Stay disciplined on valve-clearance checks (the rear exhaust valves especially), and the proven trick to cut valve burning is to set the exhaust clearances about 0.002in looser than spec so the valves get more seated cooling time. If keeping standard seats, run a lead-replacement additive. Don't lug the heavy 109 up long hills in too high a gear.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC1119 exhaust valve for 2.6-litre six-cylinder IOE engine
The 2.25 cast-iron head is prone to cracking in the narrow bridge between the inlet and exhaust valve seats (most often on No.4 cylinder), and the head/block deck can crack between cylinders 3 and 4. The early high-compression 7:1 petrol head is the worst offender, and a head that has been skimmed thin or has suffered one hard overheat is the classic trigger. The diesel, with its higher cylinder pressures, is especially vulnerable. Symptoms are a rough idle, clouds of smoke or steam at idle, coolant loss with no external leak, mayonnaise/raised oil level on the dipstick and pressurised coolant.
Common Symptoms
Rough idle
White smoke or steam at idle
Coolant loss with no visible external leak
Mayonnaise in oil / raised oil level on dipstick
Pressurised top hose, overheating
How to Fix
Pressure-test the head before re-assembly rather than just fitting a gasket on a crack. The community fix that holds up is to replace the head with a sound used unit or a later 8:1 head (cheaper and more reliable than welding), and on engines kept original, metal-stitch (cold-stitch) the crack — a proven permanent repair on these iron heads. When the head is off, fit hardened exhaust seats at the same time, skim only the minimum, and never run a worn-thin early 7:1 head. Cure any overheating root cause (radiator, water pump, timing) first so the new head does not crack again.
Early Series IIA 2.25 engines use a three-main-bearing crankshaft. With only three mains the crank flexes between supports, and the diesel — spun off the petrol with higher peak pressures — will snap its crank when abused (over-revved, lugged hard, or run with a worn No.2/centre main). Land Rover engineers themselves worried they would need a five-bearing crank to stop the diesel flexing; that five-bearing redesign did not arrive until the late 1970s, long after the IIA. Symptoms are heavy bottom-end knock, low oil pressure that worsens hot, and ultimately a broken crank.
Common Symptoms
Deep bottom-end knock
Low oil pressure, worse when hot
Heavy vibration
Broken crankshaft after hard use
How to Fix
Don't over-rev or lug the three-bearing engine, keep oil pressure healthy and bearings within spec, and use a good 20W-50. The definitive bulletproofing upgrade Series owners do is to fit a later five-bearing 2.25 (or 2.5) crank/block assembly during rebuild for a far stronger bottom end, or swap to a later five-bearing engine entirely — the same move people make when going to a 300Tdi. If keeping the original three-bearing unit, have the crank crack-tested and the centre main checked carefully at every rebuild, and balance the rotating assembly.
The 2.25's simplex timing chain stretches with age and its rubbing-pad/hydraulic tensioner is unreliable — the tensioner's oil feed port blocks with sludge so it loses tension, the chain goes slack, slaps, and on a IIA owners report the loose chain actually wearing a groove through the inside of the alloy timing cover. A 1966 Series IIA 2.25 petrol owner documented exactly this rattle from the timing area with a non-functioning tensioner. Left long enough the chain can jump a tooth and bend valves.
Common Symptoms
Rattle/clatter from the front of the engine at idle
Chain noise that worsens with revs
Groove worn into the inside of the timing cover
Retarded timing / poor running
Risk of chain jumping teeth
How to Fix
Renew the chain and tensioner as a set the moment a front-of-engine rattle appears at idle; clear and verify the tensioner's oil feed port so the new tensioner actually pressurises. The proven upgrade is to fit the earlier/uprated gear-wheel (idler-gear) tensioner type rather than the weaker slipper type — owners consider it the more durable conversion. Inspect the timing cover for chain-cut grooves and replace it if it has been worn through. Keep oil changes frequent so the tensioner feed never sludges up again.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
369007 spring-type timing-chain tensioner
OEM369007
Replace the tensioner on a 2.25 petrol or diesel engine confirmed to use the spring-type system Fitment/availability: Live page explicitly lists Series II, IIA and III 2.25 petrol and diesel with spring-type tensioner, 1958-84.
Replace the hydraulic tensioner on a supported Series 2.25 petrol engine after confirming the installed mechanism Fitment/availability: Live page lists Series II, IIA and III 2.25 four-cylinder petrol 1958-84; its diesel application begi…
The 2.25 uses a flat-tappet camshaft with sliding followers that wear quickly, and the wear is accelerated by oil starvation at the top end and by modern low-zinc (low-ZDDP) oils that don't protect a flat-tappet cam. Worn cam lobes and followers cost power and a lumpy idle, while general bottom-end wear (cam/crank journals) and a sticking oil-pump relief valve drop oil pressure — owners report a healthy 40 psi falling to under 10 psi hot, with the warning light flickering at idle. Low pressure then feeds back and wears the cam faster, a vicious circle.
Common Symptoms
Lumpy idle / lost power
Low oil pressure, worse when hot
Oil warning light at idle
Tapping/ticking valvetrain noise
Metal in the oil
How to Fix
At rebuild, fit a new cam and followers as a matched set and bed the cam in correctly, then run a high-ZDDP/zinc-additive oil (a classic-engine or diesel-rated 20W-50) — owners are emphatic that zinc is vital to flat-tappet cam life. For low oil pressure, first verify with a mechanical gauge (the sender/gauge are common false alarms), then check the oil-pump pickup screen, the pump itself and the relief valve, and renew worn cam/crank bearings. Keeping the oilways clean and changing oil often is the cheap, proven preventive.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
247709 camshaft for 2.25-litre petrol engine
OEM247709
Confirm engine number, three- versus five-bearing block conversion history, cam gear/timing arrangement, bearings and follower condition bef
274711 genuine NOS camshaft for 2.25-litre diesel engine
OEM274711
Replace a measured damaged camshaft in a matching 2.25-litre diesel engine Fitment/availability: Genuine NOS 274711 listed for Land Rover Series I, II, IIA and III 2.25 diesel; one item in stock and noted as needing cleaning. Verify exac…
Replace each condemned tappet roller during a measured cam-and-follower repair Fitment/availability: Supplier lists the roller for 2.25-litre petrol and diesel Series II/IIA/III engines.
The three-bearing 2.25 (and the 2.6 six) seal the rear of the crank with a primitive split/scroll arrangement rather than a modern lip seal, and it is a near-universal slow oil leak. The early Series II retainers differ from the IIA and are awkward to source, and an incorrectly fitted or mismatched seal/retainer simply drips onto the bellhousing and clutch. Symptoms are oil under the bellhousing, oil on the flywheel/clutch and the classic Land Rover ground-puddle.
Common Symptoms
Oil drip from the bellhousing
Oil on the flywheel / oil-soaked clutch
Persistent puddle under the gearbox area
New seal still leaks (mis-fit)
How to Fix
Renew with the readily-available rear main seal kit (p/n 542492 / 3061) and, on an early Series II engine, fit the later 2.25 seal retainers (available new) which work with the early crank and let you use the modern split-seal kit — the proven way around the unobtainable early parts. Fit it carefully (the seal halves must be staggered and the T-seals seated) using the correct remover/installer tool; a rushed install is the usual reason a 'new' seal still leaks. While the gearbox is out, also renew the clutch if it is oil-soaked.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Pioneer Weston 542492 rear oil-seal kit
OEM542492 / Turner SKU 860
Replace the split rear seal and T-seals on a supported 2.25 three-main-bearing engine Fitment/availability: Live page states 2.25 three-main-bearing petrol and diesel only and not early 1958-1962 engines with bonded aluminium half plates…
Each front swivel housing has a polished chrome ball that the axle steers on, sealed by a large oil seal. The chrome plating pits, flakes and develops sharp edges (especially on the bottom of the ball, where road grit collects), which slices the swivel seal so the housing oil/one-shot grease leaks out — visible run-down on the brake backplate and a chronically low housing. Run low/dry, the Railko bush and swivel pin bearings then wear, adding play to the steering and rough/notchy turning. It's one of the most universally documented Series front-end weak points.
The proper restoration fix: replace pitted swivel balls (genuine chrome or hard-wearing replacement) OR have them ground and re-chromed; renew the swivel seals, the Railko (top) bush and lower swivel-pin bearing, and set the swivel pin preload to spec. Refill with the correct lubricant (EP90/EP00 swivel oil or one-shot grease). Cheap field fix some owners use to limp on is epoxy-filling minor pits and smoothing — but a restorer replaces/re-chromes for a lasting seal. Keep the housing topped up.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNA3169 early Series II/IIA swivel-ball rebuild kit with chrome ball
OEMRNA3169 (replaces DA3169 / SHK3169)
One side only; verify axle architecture and follow its oil-lubrication warning.
The drop-arm is splined onto the steering-box sector shaft and held by a single large nut and a tab (lock) washer. A common failure is the nut working loose — often after someone disturbed the bottom seal and didn't torque it correctly, or the tab washer wasn't seated to lock both the arm and the nut. Once it's loose the arm fretts and the splines wear/round off, which puts knocking play into the steering and, in the worst case, lets the arm walk off the shaft — effectively losing steering. People keep re-tightening it only for it to loosen again because the underlying splines are now worn.
Tighten the drop-arm nut to the correct high torque (around 80 lb-ft / ~185 Nm) with a NEW tab washer correctly folded so it locks to BOTH the drop-arm and the nut — this is the factory fix and stops the recurring loosening on good splines. If the splines on the arm or sector shaft are already worn/rounded, replace the worn part (drop-arm and/or steering box sector) rather than relying on thread-lock, because a chewed spline will never stay tight. Re-check after the first few miles.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
595123 steering-box drop arm
OEM595123.G
Confirm the installed steering box, spline condition and arm index; this does not replace a worn rocker/sector shaft or
The Series IIA uses an oil-filled steering RELAY box bolted to the front of the chassis that transfers motion from the drop-arm/drag-link to the track-rod. Its oil is rarely topped up, the seals leak, and water/road spray gets in — owners drain out rusty 'milky' oil. The internal cones/bearings then wear and the centre shaft develops visible wobble at the base, putting slop into the whole steering and contributing to wander and front-end shimmy. Seized relays are common on cars that have stood, and budget aftermarket ('blue box'/Britpart) replacements are widely reported to fail (bent/sheared shafts) due to poor metallurgy.
Rebuild the original relay (it is a quality cast unit) with new cones, bearings and oil seals and a fresh shaft (a Bearmach shaft is the usual choice), and refill with the correct oil — then check it and top up at every service so it never runs dry/wet again. Use genuine clamp/arm bolts. Where a replacement is needed, fit a known-good quality relay rather than the cheapest, since shaft failure here is a steering-loss safety item. Reseal so water can't re-enter.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
NRC1269 complete steering relay
OEMNRC1269-AM
Confirm chassis relay tube, lever condition and mounting before purchase.
The steering linkage uses a TRACK ROD (wheel-to-wheel, behind the axle) and a DRAG LINK (steering box/relay to the wheel), each with ball-joint ends. The rubber boots split, grit gets in, grease gets out, and the ball joints develop play — the classic Series and Land Rover MOT failure for 'excessive play in track rod / drag link ball joint.' Worn ends add to the front-end vagueness and can trigger steering shimmy ('wobble'). Owners are caught out that the track-rod and drag-link ends use different (left/right) threads, so wrong parts get fitted.
MOT/inspection failure for play in steering joints
Knocking or rattling over bumps
Steering shimmy/wobble at speed
Split, dry ball-joint boots
Vague, wandering steering
How to Fix
Renew worn ball joints — on Series the usual route is to fit a complete pre-assembled track rod and/or drag link with new ends and clamps, then set the rod lengths and toe to the workshop-manual figures (and get the geometry/tracking checked). Use genuine/quality ends, fit fresh boots, and grease them. Mind the left/right-hand threads when assembling. Doing the ends, the relay and the swivels together is what actually cures Series steering 'wobble', rather than masking it with a steering damper.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LRC2319 six-piece Series track-rod-end kit
OEMLRC2319-CON / RTC5867 x3 / RTC5868 x3
Renew confirmed-worn RH and LH rod ends while retaining serviceable correctly identified rods Fitment/availability: Live direct listing contains RTC5867 x3 and RTC5868 x3 for Series 2, 2A and 3, with aftermarket or Delphi choices and opt…
The Series recirculating-ball steering box and the chassis-mounted steering RELAY are both wear points, and the relay in particular is neglected: mounted low at the front of the chassis it loses its oil, fills with water and rusty sludge, and seizes — often solid in the chassis. Combined with wear in the six tie-rod ends, a loose pitman arm and worn box, the IIA develops the classic 'wandering' steering where it takes constant correction to hold a straight line at speed, which is tiring and unsafe.
Constant steering correction needed to drive straight (wander)
Excessive free play at the steering wheel before the wheels move
Oil leak / empty steering relay full of water and rusty sludge
Notchy or seized steering relay
Clonks and vagueness from worn tie-rod ends and drag link
How to Fix
The restorer approach is to rebuild the whole steering chain rather than chase one part: rebuild the steering box with a kit (new bearings, seal, and re-shim/adjust the rocker-shaft preload to take out free play), strip and rebuild OR replace the steering relay (renew its seals and oil — don't just top it up; if seized, replace it), and fit all-new tie-rod ends and a new drag link. Target under ~25mm free play at the wheel. Many also fit a steering damper and check/renew the chassis relay mounting and box brace bolts, which loosen and make the whole system feel like 'pudding.'
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA1236 / LRC1062 steering-box repair kit
OEMLRC1062 / DA1236
Service bearings and seals in a rebuildable Series IIA steering box after teardown inspection Fitment/availability: Live page identifies LRC1062 superseding DA1236 for Series 2, 2A and 3. The listing does not promise a rocker shaft, worm…
Replace a seized, corroded or worn relay after the linkage is isolated Fitment/availability: Live direct listing fits Series 1, 2 and 3 and excludes Stage One V8. Confirm relay tube and lever/clamp hardware separately.
Renew confirmed-worn RH/LH steering rod ends across the Series linkage Fitment/availability: Live page lists three RTC5867 and three RTC5868 ends for Series 2, 2A and 3, with aftermarket or Delphi options and optional clamps.
The Series IIA steering box (recirculating-ball type) wears in its most-used straight-ahead position, so play builds up on-centre. Owners chase it by winding in the box's tension/backlash adjuster, but if the worm and rocker are worn that just makes the box tight off-centre while still loose in the middle, and over-tightening accelerates wear. Low/leaking oil in the box and a worn drop-arm sector compound the vagueness. The net effect is a wandering, imprecise truck that constantly needs correcting — tiring and unsafe at road speed.
Diagnose in order: rule out the relay, swivel-pin preload, track-rod ends and wheel bearings FIRST, then set the steering-box backlash adjuster correctly (snug on-centre, free at the locks) with the box full of the right oil. If the worm/sector is genuinely worn out, have the box rebuilt by a Series specialist (UK firms make new internals) or fit a good used/reconditioned box. Keep the box topped up and not leaking so it doesn't wear dry.
The chrome surface of the front swivel balls corrodes and pits where the felt/lip seal wipes them. Once pitted, the seal can no longer hold the EP90 that half-fills the swivel housing, so the gear oil weeps out, the swivel runs dry, and the Railko bush, CV joint and constant-velocity components inside starve. Road grit trapped under the seal accelerates the pitting, and a leaking swivel also flings oil onto the brake backplate. It is one of the most universal Series IIA front-end weak points.
Gear oil weeping from the bottom of the swivel housing
Oil contamination on the front brake backplate / drum
Low or empty swivel housing oil level
Visible scoring or rust pitting on the chrome swivel ball
Stiff or notchy steering as the swivel dries out
How to Fix
Full swivel rebuild: strip the housing, replace pitted swivel balls (or have lightly-pitted ones re-chromed/polished), fit a swivel rebuild kit (RNA3181P / DA3181-type) with new oil seals, joint washers, top Railko bush and bottom shims, and refill with 75W-90/EP90 gear oil — never grease. Restorers smooth and protect the new ball surface and set the bottom-pin shim preload correctly so the seal isn't overloaded. Keeping the housing oil-filled (not grease-packed) and the seals fresh is the proven way to stop repeat pitting.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNA3169P early top-steering-arm swivel rebuild kit
OEMRNA3169P / DA3169P / SHK3169P
Rebuild one confirmed early spring-and-cone/top-steering-arm swivel Fitment/availability: One-side kit for Series II/early IIA 1959-1962 with steering arm on top.
RNA3181P late bottom-steering-arm swivel rebuild kit
OEMRNA3181P / DA3181P / SHK3181P
Rebuild one confirmed late-1962-on Railko swivel when the ball remains serviceable Fitment/availability: One-side kit for Series IIA 1962-1971 with steering arm mounted below the swivel; excludes the swivel ball and Stage I V8.
The Series IIA rear half-shafts have only 10 splines at the differential (inner) end and 24 at the outer flange. Under shock loading — heavy off-road use, the 2.6 six-cylinder's low-down torque, the diesel's grunt, or the heavier 109 — the 10-spline inner end shears off flush inside the diff. The shaft almost never breaks at the outboard flange; it twists and snaps at the weakest point, the inner splines. Quality dropped further on post-1967 Leyland-era shafts. After a break you can limp home in the other-axle drive, but the broken stub jams in the diff and steel fragments can circulate into the diff bearings.
Bang or clunk from the axle followed by a spinning road wheel with no drive
Vehicle still moves on the other axle but one corner free-wheels
Metallic debris found when draining axle oil
How to Fix
Standard bulletproofing is to fit 24-spline (heavy-duty) half-shafts where compatible, or quality British-made shafts (avoid cheap imports) rather than worn originals. Extract the jammed inner stub before it destroys the diff — pull the shaft, fish out the broken piece, and flush the axle for swarf. Many restorers carry a spare shaft and the long rear shaft as a field-fix. Late builders running the six or doing serious off-road work upgrade to stronger aftermarket shafts and check the diff for ingested debris whenever a shaft is replaced.
The LT230-predecessor Series transfer box is mechanically simple, but the output (rear and front) bearings wear with high mileage and let the output shaft wobble. That play lets the output oil seal leak, and the drive flange itself wears a groove where the seal rides, so a new seal still leaks against a worn flange. Bearing wear also produces a transfer-box whine. People blame the seal, replace it, and the leak returns because the real fault is the worn bearing and/or grooved flange.
Oil leak from the transfer box output / propshaft flange
New output seal that leaks again quickly
Transfer box whine rising with speed
Visible wear groove on the drive flange
Play felt at the output flange
How to Fix
Diagnose the leak source by isolating the transfer box (remove props) from the rear diff for whine. Replace the worn output bearing — not just the seal — and renew or speedi-sleeve the worn drive flange so the new seal runs on a smooth surface. Set the shim/preload correctly and use thick silicone grease on the shims to stop oil seeping past. Doing bearing + flange + seal together is the durable fix.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
90217512 rear output-shaft bearing
OEM90217512.G
Replace a confirmed worn rear output bearing in the Series IIA transfer box Fitment/availability: Live direct page identifies genuine-suffix 90217512.G for Land Rover Series 2A and 3 transfer-box rear output.
Replace the Series transfer-box rear output flange when its seal journal or splines fail inspection Fitment/availability: Live page and structured product data identify genuine 236630, in stock, compatible with Series 1, 2 and 3. It is t…
The front axle's chrome swivel balls hold the oil that lubricates the constant-velocity/Tracta joints and stub-axle bearings. The lower swivel seal lives in the splash zone and the chrome surface pits with age and off-road grit. Once the seal fails, EP90 leaks out and water/mud gets in, which then destroys the CV joints, swivel pin bearings and stub-axle bearings. It's a slow, classic IIA leak that, left alone, turns a cheap seal job into a full hub/CV rebuild.
EP90 oil weeping/running down the inside of the front wheels
Greasy film and drips on the back of the front rims
Clicking or knocking from the front axle on full lock (worn CV)
Low oil level in the swivel housing on inspection
Notchy or stiff steering as swivel pins corrode
How to Fix
Bulletproofing is a full swivel reseal done properly, not a bodge: strip the hub, REPLACE or re-chrome any pitted swivel balls (pitted chrome will shred a new seal in months), fit a full swivel rebuild kit (top/bottom pins, shims, the chrome-housing oil seal and joint), set the swivel-pin preload with the correct shims, and re-grease/oil. Restorers commonly switch the swivels from EP90 oil to a One-Shot semi-fluid grease so any future weep is far slower and far less messy, and renew the axle/swivel breathers so the housings don't suck in water as they cool after a river crossing.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNA3169P early top-steering-arm swivel rebuild kit
OEMRNA3169P / DA3169P / SHK3169P
Rebuild one 1961/early-1962 top-steering-arm swivel after geometry confirmation Fitment/availability: Series II/early IIA top-arm application only; one side.
RNA3181P late bottom-steering-arm swivel rebuild kit
OEMRNA3181P / DA3181P / SHK3181P
Rebuild one late-1962-on bottom-steering-arm swivel whose ball remains usable Fitment/availability: Series IIA 1962-1971 bottom-arm Railko geometry, one side, no new ball. Excludes early top-arm axles and Stage I V8; use 75W-90 as direct…
Replace one pitted or dimensionally unserviceable swivel ball Fitment/availability: Series II/IIA/III 88/109 product replacing 539741; confirm installed early/late housing and select the matching rebuild kit and seal arrangement.
Optional Fairey/MAP free-wheeling hubs were popular on Series IIAs to disconnect the front half-shafts and save fuel and wear. Rover itself identified an early problem: with the hubs in the 'free' position the front half-shafts and CV joints stop turning, so the swivel pins, Railko bush and front CV joint inside the swivel housing don't get oil splashed over them and suffer premature wear. So a fuel-saving accessory can quietly ruin the front swivels if used wrongly. The hubs themselves can also leak at the hub-to-driving-member joint when copper sealing washers crush over time.
Accelerated swivel pin / Railko bush wear on a hub-equipped truck
Knock or play in the swivel after long periods in free mode
Oil weep at the free-wheeling hub face
Front CV joint wear despite low front-drive use
How to Fix
Follow Rover's own Service Bulletin remedy: periodically (e.g. for a stretch each week) lock the hubs in 'drive' so the front half-shafts turn and re-lubricate the swivel internals. Keep the swivel housings oil-filled so the splashing actually happens. Service the hubs periodically — clean, inspect and renew the crushed copper sealing washers so the hub doesn't leak. Many restorers simply ensure the hubs are exercised regularly rather than left permanently free.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RTC7136-Service Fairey free-wheeling-hub service kit
OEMRTC7136-Service
Service a confirmed pair of Fairey free-wheeling hubs with worn seals or operating components Fitment/availability: Retailer states the kit services a pair of Fairey hubs and supports both 10- and 24-spline variants.
The top swivel pin runs in a Railko (resin/fabric) bush that is fed lubricant through a tiny hole and relies on EP90 splashing up inside the housing. Packing the swivel with grease — including the period factory recall that told owners to drain the oil and use high-temp grease — starves the Railko bush and the upper CV/uni-joint, causing rapid bush and joint wear. The bush also dries out when the housing oil leaks away or when free-wheeling hubs leave the front axle static. A worn top bush lets the swivel rock, upsetting steering geometry and seal contact.
Play or knock felt at the top of the swivel when levered
Steering wander or notchiness
Premature wear of the swivel CV/uni-joint
Swivel oil disappearing or found contaminated/grey
Stiff steering after a grease-packed service
How to Fix
Ignore the old grease recall: run the swivel on 75W-90/EP90 gear oil so the Railko bush is properly fed. When rebuilding, soak the new Railko bush and bottom wafer overnight in EP90 before fitting, set the top-pin shim preload to spec, and confirm the small oil-feed passage is clear. If the original early-type swivel doesn't take a Railko top bush, convert to the Railko top-pin arrangement during rebuild. Keep the housing topped up and the seals good so the bush never runs dry.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNA3169P early swivel Railko conversion kit
OEMRNA3169P / DA3169P / SHK3169P
Convert one confirmed 1959-1962 top-steering-arm spring-and-cone swivel Fitment/availability: One-side early Series II/IIA kit only; follow supplied preload and 75W-90 instructions.
Rebuild one late-1962-on bottom-steering-arm Railko swivel Fitment/availability: One-side Series IIA 1962-1971 bottom-arm kit excluding the ball; use 75W-90 and no grease as the maker directs. Not for early top-arm geometry.
Later/replacement propshafts came with nylon-coated splines on the sliding joint, intended to cut friction. In service — and especially on a wading or muddy Land Rover — water creeps under the nylon coating, the trapped moisture corrodes the steel beneath, and the corrosion swells the plastic and locks the slip joint solid. A seized slip joint can no longer take up the length change as the suspension articulates, so it loads and rapidly chews out one of the universal joints. The damage is hidden until the shaft is pulled apart.
On strip-down, check the slip joint actually slides freely; if the nylon is swollen or seized, replace the propshaft (or convert to a plain greasable steel slip joint that can be lubricated and serviced). Keep the joint greased and the gaiter intact to keep water out. Restorers wading or off-roading regularly prefer a serviceable greasable shaft over the sealed nylon-coated type for exactly this reason.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC121 front propshaft for four-cylinder Series
OEMSTC121 / STC1898
Confirm 58.5 cm-class closed length, flange pattern, axle and suspension travel; not for 2.6 six-cylinder.
Both propshafts use greasable Hardy-Spicer universal joints and a sliding (splined) joint. With age and missed greasing, the needle-roller bearings in the UJ run dry, rust, and grind themselves to powder (tell-tale reddish-brown dust at the cup ends), while wear in the sliding spline lets the shaft run out of true. The result is a driveline vibration, typically worst around 50 mph, plus clunks on take-up. A neglected dry UJ can seize and, if it lets go, flail and damage the underbody or brake/fuel lines.
Grease the UJs and the sliding joint at every service through their nipples. Replace any UJ that shows play, rust staining, or a 'sticky' rotation — Series 2A/3 use the standard 82mm-type Hardy-Spicer joints. Renew worn sliding-joint splines (or the shaft) and have the propshaft balanced if vibration persists after new joints. Restorers fit good-quality greasable joints (not sealed budget ones) so the shaft can keep being serviced.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RTC3346 82 mm propshaft universal joint
OEMRTC3346 / GUJ117 / HS166
Replace a measured 82 mm joint on the later compatible shaft Fitment/availability: Direct joint listed for Series II/IIA with 82 mm cap-to-cap dimension; quantity one. Measure installed span and cap diameter because early trucks may use …
The Series IIA charging system — Lucas C40 dynamo feeding an electro-mechanical control box (RB106 era on early cars) — is weak by modern standards and wear-prone. The dynamo's worn brushes, glazed commutator and tired bearings drop output; it makes very little current at idle/low rpm (well under its ~20A ceiling), so night driving with lights and a heater flattens the battery. The control box is the bigger headache: its regulator and cutout points burn and pit, the voltage setting drifts, and a stuck cutout will either fail to charge or let the battery discharge back through the dynamo. A jury-rigged or damaged field-coil earth (a common previous-owner sin) repeatedly cooks regulators. Net result: chronic undercharging, flat batteries, and a battery warning that won't go out.
First restore the dynamo properly — new brushes, undercut/clean commutator, new bearings — and set the control box correctly (cutout closing ~13V, regulated charge ~14.2V), or fit a reliable electronic RB106-replacement regulator with lucar terminals that ends the burnt-points problem while keeping the original look. The proven long-term restoration upgrade many owners do is converting to an alternator (typically alongside a switch to negative earth): an internally-regulated 16ACR/17ACR-type alternator gives strong output at idle and frees you of the control box entirely. Fix any improvised field-coil earth before it destroys another regulator.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNK951 Series IIA dynamo-to-alternator conversion hardware kit
OEMRNK951
Provide the bracket, pulley, adjuster, connector and hardware for a documented 2.25 four-cylinder alternator conversion Fitment/availability: Fits Series IIA and uses the listed 2.25/2.5 four-cylinder bracket; kit does not include altern…
The original Lucas loom protects almost nothing — the factory fuse box holds just TWO fuses (dash lights and interior light); everything else, including the headlamps, is unfused. Combined with brittle cloth/PVC insulation, corroded brass bullet connectors, poor body-to-chassis grounds and a low-output dynamo (often still positive-earth), this gives dim headlamps, voltage drop, intermittent faults and a real fire risk. A failing floor-mounted dip switch is a known IIA item that can fry the dash harness.
Dim, yellow headlights and flickering lights at idle
Battery not charging / ammeter reading low with a dynamo
Intermittent dead circuits traced to corroded bullet connectors
Melted/scorched wiring around the floor dip switch or fuse box
Blown wiring with no fuse to protect it
How to Fix
Restorers rewire with a new quality loom (British Wiring / Autosparks) and properly bulletproof the electrics: add a modern multi-fuse box so every circuit is protected, run headlamps through RELAYS fed directly from the battery (lights jump from dull to bright and the switch/loom stay cool), convert dynamo to a modern alternator and go negative-earth for reliable 13.5–14V charging, and add dedicated earth/ground straps from rear lights, grille and bulkhead to the chassis. Replacing the old bullet connectors with proper sealed terminals kills the intermittent gremlins for good.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR202PB early 2.25-petrol main and engine harness
OEMLR202PB
Replace a widely deteriorated early petrol main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1961-1965 Series IIA 2.25 petrol, suffix A-C, positive earth, generator and ammeter; SWB/LWB body harness 1488/1489 is separate. Confirm chassis and polarity.
Replace a widely deteriorated early diesel main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1961-1965 Series IIA 2.25 diesel, suffix A-C, positive earth, generator and ammeter; separate wheelbase body harness required.
Replace a widely deteriorated later petrol main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1966-1971 Series IIA 2.25 petrol, suffix D-H, negative earth and generator, SWB/LWB; separate 1488/1489 body harness required.
Replace a widely deteriorated later diesel main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1966-1971 Series IIA 2.25 diesel, suffix D-H, negative earth and generator, SWB/LWB; separate body harness required.
After 50-plus years the original Lucas loom is a common failure point: the PVC/rubber insulation goes hard and cracks (especially where it bakes against the engine and exhaust), the cloth-bound sections fray, and the bullet connectors hidden inside the loom corrode. Many of these bullets are tin-plated steel that rusts solid, giving high resistance, heat, and intermittent dead circuits; previous-owner 'repairs' (scotchlocks, twisted joints, mismatched colours) compound the mess. On a restoration this is a fire and reliability liability rather than a tidy job — owners routinely find the harness 'completely damaged or missing' once they start stripping the truck.
For a proper restoration, replace the loom entirely with a correct reproduction rather than patching. The community-recommended suppliers make Series IIA looms to original spec and colour-code: Autosparks and The Wiring Harness Company (UK) and Vintage Wiring Harnesses (Australia). Use genuine Durite tin-plated BRASS bullets (not steel) at every joint, wrap the new loom in period-correct woven/fabric loom tape so it looks original while protecting the insulation, and route it clear of hot spots. Where keeping the original loom, renew every corroded bullet and connector and seal with dielectric grease.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR202PB early 2.25-petrol main and engine harness
OEMLR202PB
Replace a widely deteriorated early four-cylinder petrol main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1961-1965 Series IIA 2.25 petrol, chassis suffix A-C, positive earth, generator and ammeter; SWB/LWB body harness 1488/1489 is separate. Conf…
Replace a widely deteriorated early four-cylinder diesel main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1961-1965 Series IIA 2.25 diesel, short or long wheelbase, chassis suffix A-C, positive earth, generator and ammeter; requires separate 1488/…
Replace a widely deteriorated later four-cylinder petrol main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1966-1971 Series IIA 2.25 petrol, chassis suffix D-H, negative earth and generator, short or long wheelbase; takes a separate 1488/1489 body …
Replace a widely deteriorated later four-cylinder diesel main/engine loom Fitment/availability: 1966-1971 Series IIA 2.25 diesel, chassis suffix D-H, negative earth and generator, short or long wheelbase; takes separate 1488/1489 body ha…
A very high proportion of Series IIA electrical faults trace not to a failed component but to a bad earth (ground). The body, bulkhead and chassis carry the return path, and the bolted earth points — engine-to-chassis strap, bulkhead earth tags, lamp and gauge earths — corrode under paint, mud and damp. A weakened earth causes dim lights, gauges that read wrong or wander with engine speed, slow cranking, and bizarre 'feedback' faults where one circuit lights another. The aluminium-on-steel galvanic couple at body joints makes the problem worse than on a steel-bodied car. Critically, a missing engine-to-chassis ground forces the starter return current to find another path (e.g. through control cables or even the drivetrain), which can damage components.
Corroded/green earth eyelets on bulkhead and chassis
How to Fix
Make a clean earth survey part of the restoration: fit a heavy braided engine-to-chassis earth strap AND a battery-to-body/chassis earth, and add a dedicated battery-negative-to-engine cable rather than relying on the body. Scrape every earth tag back to bright metal, use star washers, tighten properly and seal with dielectric grease or cavity wax. Add extra earth straps from each lamp/gauge cluster directly back to a clean common ground point. The single highest-value habit on these trucks: when chasing any electrical gremlin, check and improve the earths first — it resolves the large majority of faults.
On the Series IIA the full headlamp current runs through the dashboard light switch and the long, thin original loom before it ever reaches the bulbs — there are no relays. The combination of a low-output dynamo, ageing high-resistance wiring and worn switch/connector contacts produces a large voltage drop, so the sealed-beam headlamps are notoriously dim. Worse, that full current through the small Lucas switch contacts overheats them; the switch (and its lucars) can scorch or even melt, and fitting brighter (60W/100W) bulbs to compensate forces even more current through wiring never designed for it — a real fire risk.
Headlight switch hot to the touch or scorched/melted
Lights brighten at higher rpm
Melted lucar terminals at the switch
Brighter bulbs blow connectors or wiring
How to Fix
The standard, well-documented restoration fix is a headlamp relay upgrade: take a fused feed straight from the battery to two relays (one dip, one main), trigger the relays with the original switch (now carrying only tiny coil current), and run heavy main/dip cables unbroken to each headlamp with the earths returned directly to the battery. This removes the load from the Lucas switch, eliminates the voltage drop, and gives a dramatically brighter, safer light — and is a prerequisite before fitting any uprated/halogen bulbs. Clean or replace the switch and all bullet connectors in the lighting circuit at the same time.
The Series IIA has an almost comically minimal Lucas fuse arrangement — typically only two fuses, mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead next to the voltage regulator, protecting a fraction of the circuits (most of the vehicle, including the lights, is unfused and relies on the wiring itself as the 'fuse'). The real weak point is the fusebox and its lucar (spade) connections: decades of damp, vibration and a positive-earth galvanic environment leave the brass spades and their crimps green with corrosion and high-resistance. This produces the classic intermittent, voltage-dropping faults that owners chase for hours — lights or gauges that work when you wiggle the loom — and the unfused circuits mean a chafed wire shorts straight to the steel body with no fuse to blow, a genuine under-bulkhead fire risk on a restoration vehicle.
Intermittent lights or gauges that come good when the loom is wiggled
Green corrosion on fusebox spade terminals
Voltage drop / dim circuits
Burning-insulation smell from a chafed unfused wire
Multiple circuits dead at once when one connection fails
How to Fix
Treat the fusebox as a known hotbed: disconnect it, clean every lucar spade with fine grit paper and electrical contact cleaner, and re-crimp (don't just reseat) any loose or corroded terminals — use genuine Durite tin-plated BRASS bullets/spades, not the cheap black-plastic tin-plated STEEL fittings which rust again within a season. The proven restoration upgrade is to fit a modern auxiliary blade-fuse box and add inline fuses to the major unfused circuits (lighting, ignition, accessories) so a short can no longer burn the loom, while leaving the original two-fuse box in place for originality. Dielectric grease on every spade after cleaning stops the corrosion returning.
The Series IIA uses a foot-operated dip switch screwed to the floor beside the clutch pedal, fed by three wires (typically blue, blue/red, blue/white) that run down the inside of the wing/bulkhead. Its position guarantees abuse: it collects mud, water and 'mucky residue' off boots, and its internal changeover contacts wear and corrode with use, so dip/main beam becomes intermittent or sticks on one beam. The wiring is also vulnerable — the run down the wing is exposed and can chafe and short, and the spade connections at the floor switch can vibrate loose and earth against the body, killing the lights or blowing the circuit.
Dead lights after hitting a bump (connector shorted/unplugged)
Mud/water residue inside the switch
Corroded floor-switch spade terminals
How to Fix
Remove the floor switch, clean out the residue and dress or replace the worn changeover contacts (a good NOS or quality reproduction Lucas foot switch cures a sticky one). Re-route and protect the three feed wires inside conduit/sleeving clear of chafe points, and re-make the floor connectors with fresh tin-plated brass spades plus dielectric grease so they can't drop off and earth out. Many restorers take the opportunity to integrate the dip function into the new headlamp-relay setup so the worn floor switch only carries relay-trigger current, not full beam load — eliminating both the wear and the short risk.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RTC432G Lucas floor-mounted headlamp dip switch
OEMRTC432G
Replace a confirmed electrically or mechanically failed original floor dip switch Fitment/availability: Vendor explicitly lists Land Rover Series II and IIA fitment. Confirm installed terminal pattern, mounting holes and original/modifie…
Early Series IIAs left the factory POSITIVE earth (the changeover to negative earth came in 1967, NADA 109 first then the rest in 1968). Positive earth is a genuine restoration trap: many modern accessories, radios, electronic regulators, LED lamps and alternators assume negative earth and will be damaged or simply won't work if bolted onto a positive-earth truck. It also accelerates galvanic corrosion at body/earth joints and confuses owners who can't see why a 'new' part behaves backwards. Identifying the polarity (which battery post goes to the chassis) before touching the electrics is essential and frequently missed.
Confusion over which battery terminal earths to the chassis
Alternator or electronic regulator won't charge
Reversed ammeter reading after a parts swap
Accelerated corrosion at earth points
How to Fix
On a restoration the proven path is to convert early positive-earth cars to negative earth so the whole modern parts catalogue (alternator, electronic regulator, radio, LEDs) is usable. The conversion is straightforward: swap the battery round, reverse the ammeter connections, swap the coil LT leads so the negative goes to the points, and re-polarise (flash) the dynamo to the new polarity — or delete the dynamo entirely and fit an alternator at the same time. Confirm and label the polarity, and check every added accessory matches before powering up to avoid frying it.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNK951 Series IIA alternator-conversion hardware kit
The Series IIA fuel and water-temperature gauges are fed not by raw 12V but by a Lucas thermal instrument voltage stabiliser that chops the supply down to a nominal ~10V using a bimetallic strip, heater coil and contact points that buzz on and off continuously. When the stabiliser ages — contacts pit, the bimetal weakens, or (most often) its earth corrodes — the regulated output collapses or bounces, and both gauges read wrong: classic symptoms are a fuel gauge that never reads full and a temperature gauge that swings with engine speed/voltage. Because both gauges share one stabiliser, owners chase 'two failed gauges' that are really one cheap part or a bad earth.
Fuel gauge never reads full / reads ~half on a brimmed tank
Temperature gauge changes with engine RPM
Both gauges wrong at once
Gauge needles bouncing or pinned
Readings correct only sometimes (intermittent earth)
How to Fix
Diagnose with an analogue voltmeter (a digital meter misreads the chopped output) — it should average ~10V steady at the gauge feed. First clean and remake the stabiliser's earth and all instrument connections; a poor earth fixes the large majority of cases. If genuinely faulty, replace the stabiliser — the proven restoration upgrade is a modern solid-state instrument voltage stabiliser in the original case, which holds a rock-steady 10V, ends the buzzing-contact drift, and makes the gauges accurate and repeatable for the first time in decades.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
BR1308-00NEG solid-state 10V voltage stabilizer in period housing
OEMBR1308-00NEG / comparison 5455
Replace a confirmed failed thermal instrument stabilizer on the supported late negative-earth branch Fitment/availability: Caerbont/Smiths solid-state unit explicitly lists Land Rover Series IIA/III from April 1967 to 1985, negative eart…
The 2nd-speed gear runs on a bronze bush (distance piece) on the mainshaft. As this bush wears, the gear sits eccentric and the box starts to jump out of 3rd (and later 4th) on the over-run. In the worst case the bronze bush breaks up and the debris jams the gear cluster. This is a hallmark high-mileage Series IIA gearbox failure and is distinct from synchro wear — it's a mechanical bush/end-float problem that gets worse until the box won't hold a gear.
Gearbox strip and rebuild: replace the 2nd/3rd-gear bronze bush/distance piece, the mainshaft and layshaft bearings, all thrust washers, the selector detent springs and the seals while the box is open. Restorers favour rebuilding a strong late D-suffix-or-later 2A box (which has the full-thickness 1st/2nd gears, unlike the thinner early Series III gears) rather than swapping in a weaker box. Setting correct mainshaft end-float on reassembly is what keeps it from jumping again.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
FRC4076 and FRC4077 mainshaft 2nd/3rd bronze split-bush set
OEMFRC4076 + FRC4077 / replaces 571218
Replace a measured failed one-piece 571218 or worn split bush during an LT76 rebuild Fitment/availability: Maker states the pair fits all Series II and IIA gearboxes and replaces the one-piece 571218; four available at review time. Verif…
The Series IIA four-speed gearbox only has synchromesh on the top two gears (3rd and 4th); 1st and 2nd are constant-mesh with no synchro, so downchanges require double-declutching and worn boxes baulk and crunch into 2nd. By this age the synchro on 2nd/3rd is usually tired. The box is also tall-geared with no overdrive, so on modern roads the engine screams at 50–55 mph, which discourages people from actually using the truck and accelerates wear. It's strong (good for ~120 hp / ~160 lb-ft) but not pleasant tired.
For restorers the proven path is to fully rebuild the original box (new layshaft, bearings and the top-two synchro hubs/baulk rings) — late-production 2A boxes are regarded as the best Series box and worth saving — and then add a Fairey/Roverdrive-type OVERDRIVE on the transfer-box output. The overdrive drops cruising revs ~28%, makes the truck genuinely usable at modern speeds and reduces engine and gearbox wear. Where a smoother shift is wanted, a Series III gearbox (also constant-mesh 1st/2nd but readily available) is an easy bolt-in alternative.
High-mileage Series IIA boxes wear out the mainshaft and layshaft bearings. As the layshaft bearings wear, the layshaft can move around under load, which both produces a rising-with-speed whine and lets gears jump out (the worn bearing clearance adds to the bronze-bush end-float problem). Left long enough, bearing break-up contaminates the whole gear cluster. It's a distinct wear path from the synchros and the 2nd-gear bush, though they often present together at rebuild time.
Gearbox whine that rises and falls with road speed
Jumping out of gear combined with whine
Rumble felt through the gear lever
Metal swarf in the gearbox oil
How to Fix
On any gearbox rebuild, renew the full bearing set — mainshaft front and rear bearings plus the layshaft (needle/roller) bearings — along with thrust washers and seals, even if only one is obviously bad, because they've all done the same miles. Use the bearing-seating compound/sealant LR specifies on the rear bearing carrier so it can't spin. Correct shimming/end-float on reassembly restores quiet running and stops the jumping-out that worn bearings cause.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA3361 gearbox bearing kit for suffix A
OEMDA3361
Renew the main gearbox bearing set during a confirmed suffix-A Series IIA overhaul Fitment/availability: Bearings-only kit explicitly for Series II and early Series IIA gearbox suffix A. Verify the stamped gearbox serial/suffix; seals, t…
The Series IIA box is a 'crash box' on 1st, 2nd and reverse — there is no synchromesh there by design, so those gears must be double-declutched. Synchro exists only on 3rd and 4th, via baulk rings that wear out with age. Worn baulk rings make 3rd and 4th crunch unless revs are perfectly matched, especially when the oil is warm. Owners who don't double-declutch into 1st/2nd grind the dog teeth and round them off, compounding the engagement problems.
Learn and use double-declutching for every change into 1st and 2nd (and for downshifts into 2nd on hills) — it's the correct technique, not a fault. For crunchy 3rd/4th, rebuild the box with new baulk rings/synchro cones and check the synchro hub springs. Restorers keep the original 2A box and renew the synchros rather than fitting a full-synchro Series III box, because the early III box uses thinner, weaker 1st/2nd gears. Correct-grade oil (EP90/GL-4-style) helps synchros work when warm.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
FRC1758 3rd/4th gear synchro clutch
OEMFRC1758 / FRC1758BM.C8
Replace the complete worn 3rd/4th synchro-clutch assembly on a gearbox confirmed within the retailer's pre-suffix-C branch Fitment/availability: Live page states Series 1-3 manual gearboxes produced before suffix C and shows current stoc…
The main gearbox and the transfer box share an internal interface. When the rear mainshaft oil seal wears, or when the rear bearing carrier was assembled without the specified sealant and spins/leaks in its bore, gearbox oil drains down into the transfer box. The gearbox then runs low (causing its own bearing/synchro wear) while the transfer box becomes overfilled and pushes oil out of its seals. Owners chase mystery 'transfer box leaks' that are actually the gearbox emptying itself.
Gearbox level keeps dropping with no external leak
Transfer box overfills and weeps oil
Oil appearing at the transfer box despite a 'sealed' gearbox
Gearbox noise from running low on oil
How to Fix
Renew the rear mainshaft oil seal and, critically, re-seat the rear bearing carrier in the casing using the bearing-seating compound/sealant Land Rover specifies (which LR and many reconditioners omit) so the carrier can't spin and pass oil. Don't overfill the gearbox. Check both box levels regularly. Curing the carrier/seal stops both the gearbox-going-low wear and the false transfer-box leak in one fix.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
236305 rear mainshaft/intercase oil seal
OEM236305
Replace the gearbox-to-transfer intercase seal after confirming the migration path and carrier condition Fitment/availability: Direct replacement 236305 listed for Land Rover Series I/II/III 1948-1985. Confirm installed Series IIA gearbo…
The outriggers that carry the rear leaf-spring front hangers are a distinct and dangerous chassis weak point. They are welded to the main rails low down where the front eye of the rear spring bolts in, and they collect water and salt at the base. As the box section rots from the inside, the spring hanger loses its anchorage to the chassis - which means a road wheel/axle can move or detach its location. This is one of the worst hidden failures because the rot is behind/under the hanger and is missed until the spring mount is visibly distorting or the area collapses under a hammer.
Scaly rust and perforation around the rear spring front hanger
Spring mount looks twisted or sitting at an odd angle
Soft/holed metal behind or beneath the outrigger
Clonks or movement from the rear suspension over bumps
MOT failure for corroded suspension mounting
How to Fix
Cut the old corroded spring-hanger outrigger off and weld on a NEW GALVANISED spring-hanger outrigger. Best practice from restorers: tack the repair/outrigger section into place one bolt-hole/locating point at a time, tap the edges flat with a hammer for a clean fit, then weld fully around. Repair the chassis-rail patch behind the outrigger at the same time (replacement outriggers are designed to sit on the face of the rail with a patch length that covers the hole usually found behind the original). Cavity-wax inside the new member and drill a small drain hole at the lowest point.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR250 88-inch rear crossmember with extensions and spring hangers
OEMLR250
Confirm civilian/military layout, fuel tank, body mounts and the cut into sound rail; not for 109-inch.
The Series IIA rides on semi-elliptic leaf springs front and rear, located by shackles at one end and a fixed pin at the other. With age the leaves lose their arch and SAG (often unevenly, leaving the truck sitting lopsided), individual leaves crack, and the shackle pins and bushes wear or seize solid — un-greased shackle pins are a classic. Worn/seized shackles let the axle shift, adding to wander and clonks, and a sagging or cracked spring upsets ride height, geometry and handling. Owners commonly find one rear leaf softer than the other causing a lean.
Replace tired/cracked springs as matched pairs (standard for load-carrying, or PARABOLIC leaf springs for a much better ride that many restorers fit), and renew all shackle pins and bushes. Many owners upgrade the bonded-rubber spring/shackle bushes to POLYBUSH (poly) bushes for longevity and to allow proper articulation — note revolver/military shackles need poly, not bonded rubber, or the rubber tears. Grease the shackle pins regularly and check ride height side-to-side. Replace U-bolts while you're in there.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNK1124 heavy-duty 2/4-leaf parabolic spring set with U-bolts
OEMRNK1124 / PSK1124
Replace all four springs on a 109-inch vehicle that genuinely needs the listed extra-load heavy-duty parabolic rate Fitment/availability: Set contains two-leaf fronts, four-leaf rears, U-bolts and nuts; retailer says designed for 109-inc…
The lever or telescopic shock absorbers and — critically — their rubber mounting bushes perish with age. Tired dampers let the leaf-sprung axles continue to oscillate after a bump, which on a short-wheelbase Series shows up as bounce, poor control on rough roads, and can help trigger or sustain front-end shimmy/'wobble' once other steering parts are also worn. The lower shock eye uses a compressed rubber bush retained by a split pin; when the bush is gone the shock clunks on its mount and does nothing. It's a low-severity but commonly-overlooked item on a restoration.
Renew all shock absorbers in matched pairs (quality gas or HD dampers; many restorers fit uprated units to suit parabolic springs) and ALWAYS renew the rubber mounting bushes at the same time. On the lower mount, compress the new rubber bush properly so the washer seats and the split pin goes through (a known fiddle owners describe). Don't bother replacing dampers to 'cure' wobble on their own — fix the steering joints first; the dampers are about ride control and stopping residual axle oscillation.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LRC1021 four-damper kit for SWB 88 Series 2/2A/3
OEMLRC1021 / RTC4230 x2 / RTC4232 x2
Renew front and rear standard-length dampers on a confirmed 88-inch standard suspension Fitment/availability: Live page explicitly excludes LWB and contains two RTC4230 front plus two RTC4232 rear dampers. Confirm spring type, ride heigh…
LRC10491 four-damper kit for LWB 109 Series 2/2A/3
OEMLRC10491 / RTC4483 x2 / RTC4442 x2
Renew front and rear standard-length dampers on a confirmed 109-inch standard suspension Fitment/availability: Live page includes two RTC4483 front and two RTC4442 rear dampers with optional LRC2455/LRC2456 fitting kits. Confirm spring t…
The 2.25 diesel's CAV/DPA rotary injection pump wears with age and contaminated/old fuel. Internal tolerances are in microns, so worn pumping/metering parts and perished seals cause fuel starvation, hard starting, hesitation and loss of power. The classic external symptom is the pump-head O-ring failing, leaving diesel weeping from the joint between the pump head and the lower body. Once one seal has gone the rest are usually tired too, and water/dirt in the fuel accelerates the internal wear.
Common Symptoms
Hard starting (especially when warm or hot)
Hesitation / flat power under load
Diesel weeping from the pump head joint
Fuel starvation / cutting out
Smoke and poor running from worn metering
How to Fix
Don't just chase the leak — when a seal fails the proven approach is to send the pump to a diesel injection specialist for a full recondition (a Delphi/CAV 7135-110 type seal/gasket kit is what the shops use), because the internal parts are likely worn as well. Keep the system bulletproof afterwards with clean fuel, a good water-trap/filter and timely filter changes. Don't overlook the separate mechanical lift pump (a common no-fuel cause) and bleed the system properly after any work. Setting pump timing correctly on reassembly cures most lingering hard-start complaints.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Replace a confirmed failed pump when its complete nameplate matches 3249F750 or documented equivalent 3249F751 Fitment/availability: Remanufactured four-cylinder CAV/Lucas pump for Land Rover 2.25-litre application; exchange core must be…
The factory Solex 40PA fitted to the 2.25 petrol from 1958-67 (and the later Zenith) is a known weak spot. With age the throttle spindle bushing wears and draws an air leak (lean idle, hunting, won't tune), the body/flange warps with engine heat and leaks air, the accelerator pump jet and other jets block to give a flat spot when you open the throttle off idle, and a worn float needle-and-seat lets the bowl flood and run rich/leak fuel — a fire risk on a hot engine. The result is poor idle, hesitation, stalling and heavy fuel consumption.
Common Symptoms
Flat spot / hesitation when opening the throttle
Lumpy or hunting idle that won't tune (air leak)
Flooding / fuel leak / rich running
Stalling, especially when hot
Heavy fuel consumption
How to Fix
Fully strip and rebuild the carb (new float needle/seat, gaskets, jets cleaned), check the throttle spindle for play and re-bush if worn, and skim/flatten the warped flange or fit an insulating spacer to keep heat out. The popular bulletproofing route Series owners take is to convert from the troublesome Solex to a Weber 34ICH or Zenith 36IV using a proper conversion kit (e.g. Rovers North CONKIT2) for far better cold-start, idle and driveability. Set float height correctly to stop flooding, and renew cracked fuel lines while you're there.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
312818 genuine Weber 34 ICH carburettor
OEM312818 / Weber 34 ICH
Replace a confirmed unserviceable Zenith, or form the carburettor portion of a Solex conversion, on the no-servo branch Fitment/availability: Live page lists Series IIA/III 1961-85 four-cylinder petrol without brake servo. Confirm manifold
Provide the explicitly required manifold adapter when converting a Series IIA four-cylinder petrol from Solex to the approved Weber Fitment/availability: Live page lists Series IIA/III 1961-85 four-cylinder petrol with Solex, fitted betw…
The cam-driven AC mechanical lift pump on the side of the block uses a rubber diaphragm that perishes and splits. On the petrol engine a holed diaphragm lets fuel get pumped straight down into the crankcase, thinning the oil to a dangerously low viscosity (and over-filling the sump with petrol) — a genuine engine-killer if missed. Short of that, a tired diaphragm or worn valves simply can't lift enough fuel, causing fuel starvation, cutting out under load and hard hot starting. There is a drain hole in the pump body that's meant to leak fuel externally as the early warning sign.
Common Symptoms
Fuel starvation / cutting out under load
Hard hot starting
Rising, petrol-smelling, over-thin engine oil
Fuel weeping from the pump body drain hole
Over-full sump
How to Fix
Rebuild the pump with a new diaphragm and valve kit (an AC/AC-Delco kit, job described in the factory workshop manual) or fit a known-good replacement — and check the engine oil for fuel dilution/smell at the same time, changing it immediately if contaminated. Confirm the body drain hole is clear so a future diaphragm failure leaks outside rather than into the sump. Many restorers go a step further and add a low-pressure electric lift pump (or convert to electric) for reliable fuel delivery and easier hot starting, keeping the mechanical pump as backup or blanking it off.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
549761 mechanical fuel pump with glass bowl for 2.25 petrol
OEM549761 / ERC9594 / 501735
Replace a confirmed failed petrol lift pump Fitment/availability: Direct pump for Land Rover Series 2.25 four-cylinder petrol, with glass bowl; choose a stocked supplier option and verify cam lever, spacer/gasket and pipe fittings.
Replace a confirmed failed diesel lift pump Fitment/availability: OEM/aftermarket options explicitly fit Series II/IIA/III 2.25 diesel and include hand primer. Verify mounting, gasket and line unions; not for petrol.
The steel fuel tank lives under the front seat (with an extra rear/auxiliary tank on some 109s) where condensation and trapped moisture rust it from the inside out. The rust flakes block the pickup and feed grit/water to the lift pump and carb/injection pump (causing intermittent starvation), and the same moisture corrodes the float-arm sender's windings so the fuel gauge reads wrong or dead. Senders fail far more often than the gauges themselves. The gauge/sender resistance must also be matched (Series II/IIA differs from later) or the gauge won't read correctly.
Common Symptoms
Intermittent fuel starvation / cutting out from tank debris
Water and rust flakes in the fuel
Fuel gauge reading wrong, stuck or dead
Blocked fuel pickup or filter
Pinholes / weeping at the tank seams
How to Fix
Drain, remove and inspect the tank; clean and seal a sound tank internally with a tank-sealer kit, or fit a new/galvanised or stainless replacement tank for a permanent restoration fix. Renew the sender unit (matched to the gauge — the correct unit reads roughly 240 ohms full / 30 ohms empty for the later sender) and clean its earth, and add an inline fuel filter/water trap to protect the pump and carb from any future debris. Keeping the tank full over storage reduces internal condensation and rust.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLF360K 12-gallon auxiliary/military under-seat petrol fuel-tank kit with cap
Replace a structurally rusted matching under-seat petrol tank after confirming its location and body configuration Fitment/availability: Live page fits 88 Series II-III auxiliary tanks, 1959-72 109 Regular under-LH-seat tanks, 2.25-litre…
Replace a failed sender after proving the gauge, wiring and earth and matching the arm to the removed unit Fitment/availability: Live page states Series 2/2A/3 with 2.25 petrol or diesel and under-seat tanks, with or without warning ligh…
Series IIA cooling is marginal and well-documented as running hot, particularly the heavy 109 / 2.6 in traffic or on long climbs. The original radiator silts up internally and loses capacity with age, the water pump's bearing/seal wears (coolant seeps from the weep hole as the seal fails), and the system traps air or loses pressure through a tired cap. A lean carb mixture or a cracked head adds heat. Owners report a vehicle that overheats even after fitting a new radiator because the real cause was the pump, airlock, or mixture.
Common Symptoms
Temperature climbing in traffic or on long hills
Coolant seeping from the water-pump weep hole
Still overheats after a new radiator
Coolant loss / steam
Airlock after coolant changes
How to Fix
Treat it as a system. Have the radiator re-cored or fit a high-efficiency (uprated, more-rows) radiator — the single most effective upgrade for the hot-running 109/2.6. Renew the water pump at the first weep (a weeping weep hole means the seal/bearing is going, not 'normal'), fit a known-good thermostat and a pressure cap that holds, and bleed/burp the system to clear airlocks. Confirm flow by cranking cold with the top hose off, and rule out a lean carb mixture or a cracked head as the underlying heat source before chasing the cooling parts.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
AS144 Allisport uprated alloy radiator for 2.25 petrol
OEMAS144
Replace a confirmed restricted or leaking radiator in the 2.25-litre petrol branch where an uprated unit is desired Fitment/availability: Special-order radiator listed for Land Rover Series II/IIA/III with 2.25 petrol engine. Confirm ear…
Where fitted, the Series IIA's Smiths heater is feeble even when healthy, and the single-speed blower motor is a known weak point. The sleeve-bearing motor dries out and stiffens, the squirrel-cage fan packs with debris, and output drops to a trickle of warm air; the motor draws more current as it stiffens and eventually seizes or burns out. A silted-up heater matrix (core) makes it worse, choking what little airflow there is, so owners get almost no cabin heat — a real problem on a draughty restoration vehicle used year-round.
Free off or rebuild the Smiths motor — lubricate the bearings (owners drill a small access hole and add a few drops of light oil if the case won't split) and clean the squirrel cage. Flush the heater matrix with a hose to clear the sludge that strangles airflow. The popular, well-liked restoration upgrade is to swap the tired Smiths blower for a later Defender heater blower or a SPAL snail-type motor (SPAL originated the Land Rover blower design) — a higher-output, multi-speed fan that bolts into the same housing and finally gives usable heat and demist. Check the feed/earth and switch while the unit is out.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
35595K Smiths heater blower motor kit with fan
OEM35595K
Confirm the installed housing and electrical system; it is not sh
How much does it cost to fix common Land Rover Series IIA problems?
Repair costs for known Land Rover Series IIA issues range from $15 to $6,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Chassis Rust — Rear Crossmember, Outriggers & Spring Hangers Rot Out, typically costs $1,500-$6,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What year Land Rover Series IIA is the most reliable?
Reliability varies across model years of the Land Rover Series IIA. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA with 62 documented issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Chassis Rust — Rear Crossmember, Outriggers & Spring Hangers Rot Out?
The box-section ladder chassis is only painted steel, and it fills with mud and water through the open ends and dumb-iron holes. On a IIA the rear crossmember, the body outriggers, the rear spring hangers and the area around the fuel-tank cradle rot from the inside, so a chassis… Repairs typically run $1,500-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1967 Land Rover Series IIA Single-Circuit Drum Brakes — Notoriously Hard to Bleed, Weak & No Fail-Safe?
Pre-1968 IIAs use an unservoed, SINGLE-circuit drum brake system that is genuinely poor by modern standards and dangerous because one leak loses ALL braking. The design also traps air and is notoriously hard to bleed: the compression-barrel master cylinder sits at an angle so air… Repairs typically run $400-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Swivel ball pitting/corrosion cuts the seals, leaking oil and ruining steering feel?
Each front swivel housing has a polished chrome ball that the axle steers on, sealed by a large oil seal. The chrome plating pits, flakes and develops sharp edges (especially on the bottom of the ball, where road grit collects), which slices the swivel seal so the housing oil/one… Repairs typically run $150-$600. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA 2.25 diesel cracked / porous cylinder block (cracks adjacent to the bores and between 3 & 4)?
The 2.25 diesel block can crack in the deck between cylinders 3 and 4 or alongside the bores, and there is a known 'porous block' weakness where hairline cracks open next to the bore and weep coolant into the cylinder or sump. Higher diesel compression and combustion pressure, pl… Repairs typically run $300-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1967-1971 Land Rover Series IIA 2.6 straight-six: burnt exhaust valves and soft (unleaded-incompatible) exhaust seats?
The 2.6 six-cylinder fitted to the long-wheelbase IIA from 1967 is high-maintenance and its defining weakness is burning exhaust valves. The cast-iron seats were designed around leaded fuel, so on modern unleaded the unprotected exhaust seats recess and the valves burn, and the e… Repairs typically run $200-$1,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Brake master cylinder seizes/leaks and steel brake pipes corrode through?
On vehicles that have stood, the original master cylinder bore corrodes and the rubber seals harden, so the cylinder either seizes solid, fails to build pressure (pedal sinks to the floor), or leaks fluid internally/externally. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and is rarely changed on… Repairs typically run $150-$600. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Front Dumb Irons / Frame Horns Corrode at the Bumper & Front Spring Mount?
The front 'dumb irons' (frame horns) that carry the front bumper and the front shackle/spring mount are a documented Series rot spot. Water and mud pack into the closed ends, and the internal crush/spreader plates inside the bumper-bolt holes hold moisture against the steel, so t… Repairs typically run $120-$900. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Front Swivel Ball Pitting and Swivel Housing Oil Leaks?
The chrome surface of the front swivel balls corrodes and pits where the felt/lip seal wipes them. Once pitted, the seal can no longer hold the EP90 that half-fills the swivel housing, so the gear oil weeps out, the swivel runs dry, and the Railko bush, CV joint and constant-velo… Repairs typically run $80-$350. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Rear Spring Hanger / Rear Outrigger Corrosion (suspension mount lets go)?
The outriggers that carry the rear leaf-spring front hangers are a distinct and dangerous chassis weak point. They are welded to the main rails low down where the front eye of the rear spring bolts in, and they collect water and salt at the base. As the box section rots from the… Repairs typically run $120-$900. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Rotten Bulkhead (Firewall) — Footwells, Door Pillars & Top Rail Corrode From the Inside?
The Series IIA's pressed-steel bulkhead is the single most expensive thing to get wrong on a restoration. It is a double-skinned structure that traps moisture, so it rots from the inside out — long before the surface looks bad. The classic failure zones are the footwells (under t… Repairs typically run $900-$4,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Steering drop-arm works loose on its splines / splines wear, losing steering?
The drop-arm is splined onto the steering-box sector shaft and held by a single large nut and a tab (lock) washer. A common failure is the nut working loose — often after someone disturbed the bottom seal and didn't torque it correctly, or the tab washer wasn't seated to lock bot… Repairs typically run $20-$250. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Steering relay box seizes, fills with water/rust, or develops shaft play?
The Series IIA uses an oil-filled steering RELAY box bolted to the front of the chassis that transfers motion from the drop-arm/drag-link to the track-rod. Its oil is rarely topped up, the seals leak, and water/road spray gets in — owners drain out rusty 'milky' oil. The internal… Repairs typically run $120-$450. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Transmission (driveline) handbrake drum worn and ineffective, won't hold on a slope?
The Series IIA parking brake is a separate drum mounted on the rear of the transfer box (a transmission/driveline brake acting on the propshaft), NOT on the wheels. The internal shoes, linings, return spring and the expander wear, and the drum glazes/scores, so the lever pulls a… Repairs typically run $80-$350. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Wheel (slave) cylinders seize, bind or leak fluid onto the shoes?
The drum wheel cylinders seize from corrosion and lack of use, which causes brakes that drag/bind (one wheel runs hot, pulls to one side, kills fuel economy) or pistons that won't return so the brake locks on after warming up. When the cylinder seal fails it weeps fluid past the… Repairs typically run $120-$450. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Rear Half-Shaft Snaps Off Inside the Differential (10-Spline ENV/Salisbury Axle)?
The Series IIA rear half-shafts have only 10 splines at the differential (inner) end and 24 at the outer flange. Under shock loading — heavy off-road use, the 2.6 six-cylinder's low-down torque, the diesel's grunt, or the heavier 109 — the 10-spline inner end shears off flush ins… Repairs typically run $60-$300. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Series IIA Rear Crossmember Rots Out (the classic MOT-failure chassis weak point)?
The bolt-up rear crossmember of the Series IIA box-section chassis is the single most notorious rot point on the vehicle. It sits low at the back where it collects road spray, mud and water, and the closed box section traps moisture from the inside out. Rust starts in the vertica… Repairs typically run $250-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Bulkhead/Body Mount Outriggers Rust Through (front of chassis mid-section)?
Separate from the spring hangers, the bolt-on outriggers that support the bulkhead and seat-box/body mounts rot independently. They are short box-section legs sticking out from the main rails, open to road spray, and they trap mud where the body and bulkhead bolt down. Because th… Repairs typically run $100-$1,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Bulkhead Footwells Rot Out (steel footwells corrode from fluid + trapped mud)?
The steel bulkhead footwells are the most consistently rotten part of the Series IIA bulkhead. They sit at the lowest point of the bulkhead and collect water, mud and leaves, and the master-cylinder area gets attacked by spilled brake/clutch fluid which strips paint and accelerat… Repairs typically run $150-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA 2.25 cylinder head cracks between the valve seats (and head-to-block between No.3 and No.4)?
The 2.25 cast-iron head is prone to cracking in the narrow bridge between the inlet and exhaust valve seats (most often on No.4 cylinder), and the head/block deck can crack between cylinders 3 and 4. The early high-compression 7:1 petrol head is the worst offender, and a head tha… Repairs typically run $250-$1,200. Severity: high.
What is the 1961-1971 Land Rover Series IIA Gearbox Jumps Out of 3rd/4th — Worn 2nd/3rd Mainshaft Bronze Bush?
The 2nd-speed gear runs on a bronze bush (distance piece) on the mainshaft. As this bush wears, the gear sits eccentric and the box starts to jump out of 3rd (and later 4th) on the over-run. In the worst case the bronze bush breaks up and the debris jams the gear cluster. This is… Repairs typically run $150-$600. Severity: high.
