According to Au7o's analysis of 1,370+ owner reports, the 1983-2025 Land Rover Defender has 44 documented known issues, with 21 rated critical. The most serious are Galvanised-era chassis still rots at the rear crossmember, spring hangers and gearbox crossmember mounts ($400-$4,500 repair), Steel bulkhead corrosion (footwells, top vent corners, A-post feet) ($800-$4,500 repair), Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and rear spring/dumb-iron areas ($600-$5,000 repair), Cylinder head cracking between valves / injector seat after overheat ($500-$1,800 repair), Td5 head gasket failure — stretched head bolts and No.3 cylinder-to-coolant leak ($600-$2,500 repair), Bulkhead corrosion at footwells and bulkhead feet (worsened by factory double-plating) ($300-$3,000 repair), 2.2 TDCi (EU5) Oil Pump Disintegration / Oil Starvation ($1,500-$6,000 repair), . at .
Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Land Rover) is recalling certain 2020-2026 Land Rover Defender, 2021-2026 Discovery, and 2022-2026 Range Rover vehicles. The driver’s air bag clockspring connector may corrode, which can cause the air bag not to deploy as intended.
Campaign #26V38900012/06/2026
EQUIPMENT
Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Land Rover) is recalling certain 2020-2025 Land Rover Defender vehicles equipped with Raised Air Intake (RAI) aftermarket accessory equipment, with part number VPLEP0543. The raised air intake may not be secured properly, which can allow the intake to detach from the vehicle.
Campaign #24E10200006/12/2024
SEAT BELTS:PRETENSIONER
Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Land Rover) is recalling certain 2022-23 Land Rover Defender, Discovery, Discovery Sport and 2022 Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Velar vehicles. The driver and front passenger seat belt pretensioners may be damaged, which can cause the seat belts to not properly restrain occupants.
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What are the most common Land Rover Defender problems?
According to Au7o's analysis of 1,370+ owner reports, the 1983-2025 Land Rover Defender has 44 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Galvanised-era chassis still rots at the rear crossmember, spring hangers and gearbox crossmember mounts, Steel bulkhead corrosion (footwells, top vent corners, A-post feet), Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and rear spring/dumb-iron areas. Of these, 21 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Land Rover Defender reliable?
The 1983-2025 Land Rover Defender has 44 known issues documented across 1,370+ owner reports. 21 issues are rated critical: Galvanised-era chassis still rots at the rear crossmember, spring hangers and gearbox crossmember mounts and Steel bulkhead corrosion (footwells, top vent corners, A-post feet) and Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and rear spring/dumb-iron areas and Cylinder head cracking between valves / injector seat after overheat and Td5 head gasket failure — stretched head bolts and No.3 cylinder-to-coolant leak and Bulkhead corrosion at footwells and bulkhead feet (worsened by factory double-plating) and 2.2 TDCi (EU5) Oil Pump Disintegration / Oil Starvation and MT82 Gearbox Rear Output-Shaft Spline Fretting (Loss of Drive) and Rear Crossmember & Chassis Rot (Salt-Belt Corrosion) and Rover 3.9 V8 slipped/cracked cylinder liners and Rear crossmember and outrigger rot (galvanized chassis fix) and Bulkhead footwell, A-pillar and door-pillar corrosion and LT77 gearbox failure behind the V8 (R380 upgrade) and 200Tdi cylinder head cracking in the bridge between the valves and Bulkhead corrosion around footwells, vents and screen frame and Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and spring/axle mounts and Early timing belt misalignment / belt shred and Td5 oil pump sprocket bolt backs out — sudden total oil-pressure loss and 2.5 Turbo Diesel (19J) block cracks and breather-induced engine runaway and Chassis corrosion — rear crossmember and outriggers rot out and Steel bulkhead rot at footwells, top corners and A-post feet. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Land Rover Defender problems?
Repair costs for known Land Rover Defender issues range from $30 to $8,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Galvanised-era chassis still rots at the rear crossmember, spring hangers and gearbox crossmember mounts, typically costs $400-$4,500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
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Despite the era's reputation, the Td5 chassis is NOT galvanised from the factory and rots in the classic mud/water traps: the boxed rear crossmember, the rear spring hangers (corrosion often hidden until the coils are removed), and the chassis rails where the gearbox crossmember bolts on (a sealed mud pocket). Because the crossmember is structural, a rotten one is an MOT failure and a safety issue — and patching over it is unsafe. This is the number-one body decision a Td5 restorer has to make.
Common Symptoms
Flaking/scaling or holes in the rear crossmember
Rust holes at rear spring hangers (found when springs removed)
Deep corrosion under the gearbox crossmember mounting
MOT advisory or failure for chassis corrosion
Crunching / movement from soft chassis sections
How to Fix
If the rails are sound, the proven fix is to cut out and weld in a new rear crossmember (galvanised versions exist — grind back the zinc at weld areas). On a bad chassis, restorers go all-in and fit a brand-new GALVANISED replacement chassis (Richards/Marsland/etc. make Td5-specific 90/110 chassis Sept-1998 to Jan-2007), which permanently solves the corrosion and resets the build. Always renew/clear the outriggers and add a galvanised spring-hanger repair while access is open. Cavity-wax the boxed sections afterwards.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR610G/KVB000290G galvanized rear crossmember without extensions
OEMLR610G / KVB000290G
Replace a localized rear-crossmember failure when adjacent rails remain sound Fitment/availability: Defender 90 and 110 from 1998-2016, including Td5, no extensions. Not for 130 and not suitable when rail corrosion requires longer repair…
KVB500060 bolt-on Td5 gearbox crossmember with galvanized option
OEMKVB500060 / DDS LR630
Replace a corrosion-damaged gearbox crossmember after inspecting its chassis mounting faces Fitment/availability: 1998-2006 Td5 Defender 90/110; retailer also tags 130/Hi-Cap, but confirm exact mounting and body/chassis configuration bef…
The 300Tdi-era Defender's pressed-steel bulkhead (firewall) is the single most expensive corrosion point on the vehicle. Water drains down the windscreen and collects in the lower box sections behind the footwells, around the A-post feet where the bulkhead bolts to the chassis outriggers, and in the top corners around the heater air-intake/vent flaps. Because the rot starts inside the box sections, by the time it shows externally the structure is usually already badly perforated. A rotten bulkhead fails the MOT (cracked/rusted mounting points), lets water and exhaust fumes into the cab, and is a far bigger job than chassis work because the windscreen, dash, wiring loom and pedal box all have to come off to replace it.
Common Symptoms
Bubbling/flaking paint along the footwell sides and behind the kick panels
Rust streaks and perforation around the top vent/heater-intake corners
Soft or holed metal at the A-post feet where the bulkhead meets the chassis
Water or fumes entering the cab; wet carpets/footwell mats
Doors not lining up due to the bulkhead/door-post sagging
How to Fix
Restorers do not just bolt in a fresh steel bulkhead and repeat the failure — the proven move is to source a sound (ideally dry-climate) bulkhead OR weld in proprietary repair sections (footwell and top-corner repair panels), then HOT-DIP GALVANISE the complete bulkhead before fitting. Failing full galvanising, seam-seal every joint, etch-prime and flood the internal box sections with cavity wax (Dinitrol/Bilt Hamber) before installation, and keep the windscreen-to-bulkhead seal and the under-vent drains clear so water can escape rather than pool. A galvanised bulkhead on a galvanised chassis is the accepted 'do it once' restoration standard.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
YRM004A left footwell repair panel
OEMYRM004A
Confirm corrosion does not extend beyond the repair area.
Repair localized right footwell corrosion where surrounding bulkhead structure remains sound Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender 90/110/130, LHD or RHD, right side; verify the exact repair extent and adjacent mounts.
Repair localized corrosion above the left footwell after confirming steering/heater opening position Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender 90/110/130, LHD or RHD, left side.
Repair localized corrosion above the right footwell after confirming steering/heater opening position Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender 90/110/130, LHD or RHD, right side; verify cutout location and adjacent structure.
Replace a structurally unserviceable 90 bulkhead after a complete configuration and transfer plan Fitment/availability: Defender 90 300Tdi branch; select steering side and finish and confirm gearbox, vents, dash, pedal/heater, VIN/body a…
Replace a structurally unserviceable 110 bulkhead after a complete configuration and transfer plan Fitment/availability: Defender 110 300Tdi branch; select steering side and finish and confirm gearbox, vents, dash, pedal/heater, VIN/body…
Replace a structurally unserviceable 130 bulkhead after a complete configuration and transfer plan Fitment/availability: Defender 130 300Tdi branch; select steering side and finish and confirm gearbox, vents, dash, pedal/heater, VIN/body…
The 300Tdi Defender's ladder chassis is mild steel, not galvanised from the factory, so on UK/road-salt cars it rots from the inside out. The classic failure zones are the rear crossmember (which traps mud and water and bulges/perforates along its lower edge), the body-mount and bulkhead outriggers, the rear spring hangers/dumb-irons, and the chassis rails directly above the rear axle and around the fuel-tank cradle. Because the box-section rusts internally, a chassis can look solid externally yet be paper-thin — a structural MOT failure and a safety issue if a spring hanger or crossmember lets go.
Common Symptoms
Flaking, scaly or bulging metal on the rear crossmember lower face
Perforation at body-mount/bulkhead outriggers and rear spring hangers
Screwdriver pushes through 'solid-looking' box section
Welded plate repairs already present from previous owners
MOT advisory or failure for corrosion within 30cm of a structural mounting
How to Fix
The accepted restoration fix is era-appropriate: weld in OEM-pattern galvanised repair sections (rear crossmember, outrigger and dumb-iron repair kits) for a partial fix, but the 'bulletproof' standard restorers fit on a full rebuild is a complete hot-dip GALVANISED replacement chassis (Richards/Marsland/Shielder pattern) so the rot never returns. Whichever route, drill-and-flood the internal box sections with cavity wax (Dinitrol ML/Bilt Hamber), keep the crossmember drain holes clear, and re-treat the underside every 2-3 years. Galvanised chassis + galvanised bulkhead is the recognised once-and-done combination.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC8354 right-hand galvanized bulkhead outrigger
OEMSTC8354 / SP 4x4 LR513GO-S
Replace a failed right-hand bulkhead outrigger where adjacent rail metal remains structurally sound Fitment/availability: Retailer lists Defender 90/110/130 1983-2016; verify right-hand location, chassis dimensions and weldable parent me…
The steel bulkhead rusts hard at the bottoms of the footwells, around the door pillars/A-posts and at the 'feet' where it bolts to the chassis outriggers. The factory double-plates (sheet over sheet) the footwells and the area above the transmission tunnel; water sits between the layers, so corrosion starts hidden and the doubled section can't be properly protected — leading to early failure. A rotten bulkhead foot lets the whole structure sag, throws door gaps out and is a structural MOT concern, so it's a core Td5 restoration item.
Common Symptoms
Rust/holes in driver and passenger footwells
Corroded bulkhead feet, sagging/poor door gaps
Rot around the A-posts / door check straps
Damp carpets, water ingress into cab
How to Fix
Proven approach: media-blast the bulkhead, cut out the footwells, feet and any doubled rot, and weld in correct-thickness repair panels (good repair sections are readily available). Then hot-dip GALVANISE the repaired bulkhead — but eliminate/avoid re-creating the sealed double-plate so the zinc fully penetrates and it can't trap water again. Finish galvanised steel with a proper etch primer system. A galvanised, single-skinned bulkhead with seam-sealed joints is the lasting fix; many builders fit a new galvanised bulkhead outright on the worst cars.
The Puma kept a painted (not galvanised) steel ladder chassis, and the rear crossmember is the first thing to rot — it boxes water and mud around the towing/rear-body mounts and rusts from the inside out, often hidden under undseal. The chassis outriggers, rear inner wings and fuel-tank crossmember area go the same way on salted UK/EU trucks. Even relatively young Pumas need crossmember attention, and a previously-bodged crossmember repair is a common nasty surprise on a purchase inspection.
Common Symptoms
Flaking/scaling rust on rear crossmember
Crunchy or holed metal around tow hitch and rear body mounts
Previous welded patch repairs found on inspection
Rotten outriggers / fuel-tank crossmember
MOT advisory or fail for chassis corrosion
How to Fix
The restoration-grade fix: (1) Fit a hot-dip galvanised replacement rear crossmember (Heritage HA0103G / DDS LR613-type), galvanised inside and out, rather than a painted mild-steel patch — then it never comes back. (2) On heavily-rotted trucks the bulletproof answer restorers choose is a full galvanised replacement chassis (Richards/Shielder/TerrainTech), which resets the whole vehicle. (3) After welding any crossmember, flood the internal cavity with Waxoyl/Dinitrol and re-treat the outriggers and tank crossmember. (4) Keep the chassis breathing/draining and re-wax the underside every couple of winters.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR610G / KVB000290G galvanized rear crossmember without extensions
OEMLR610G / KVB000290G
Replace a localized Puma rear-crossmember failure when the adjoining chassis rails remain structurally sound Fitment/availability: 1998-2016 Defender 90 and 110, including 2007-2016 2.4/2.2 TDCi. No extensions; not for Defender 130 or ra…
The steel bulkhead is multiple spot-welded, double-skinned layers, and moisture wicks into the hidden joints. On NAS trucks the footwells, the A-pillar/door-pillar junctions and the top corners rot from the inside out, hidden behind trim and easily disguised with paint. Because the bulkhead carries the doors, dash, pedals, steering column and front body mounts, a rotten one throws out door gaps and shifts steering geometry — it is structural, not trim.
Common Symptoms
Soft/perforated footwells (often found when carpet is lifted)
Bubbling paint at the A-pillar and door tops
Doors dropping or gaps going uneven
Water in the footwells
Rust visible around the vent flap and screen base
How to Fix
Restorers either fit a brand-new galvanized bulkhead or, more commonly, cut out the rot and weld in galvanized repair sections — footwells, top corners and A-post/door-pillar repair panels — back to clean, rust-free metal with a lap joint. After welding, etch-prime, seam-seal and cavity-wax the double-skinned areas so water can't re-enter the hidden joints. A galvanized bulkhead or galvanized repair panels is the upgrade that actually stops the cycle versus a steel panel that just rots again.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Defender 90 V8 replacement bulkhead
OEMSCFB103-D / 1BH000900900V8
Replace a structurally unserviceable Defender 90 V8 bulkhead after NAS configuration review Fitment/availability: 1994-1997 Defender 90 NAS V8 branch only; select LHD and confirm NAS dash, A/C, pedal, gearbox, wiring and bracket transfer…
Replace a structurally unserviceable Defender 110 V8 bulkhead after NAS configuration review Fitment/availability: 1993 Defender 110 NAS V8 branch only; select LHD and confirm NAS dash, A/C, pedal, gearbox, wiring and bracket transfer re…
The pressed-steel front bulkhead is the single most expensive structural weak point on a 200Tdi-era Defender and the one restorers fear most. The lower outer corners (footwell box sections), the heater/fresh-air vent apertures, the windscreen-frame mounting flange, and the door-pillar feet rot from the inside out. Water gets in past a poorly-sealed windscreen frame and tired door seals, then soaks the original underfelt/carpet which acts as a sponge against bare steel, and the rot advances unseen behind trim. Because the bulkhead carries the windscreen, doors, steering column, pedal box and front body, badly rotten corners make the vehicle structurally unsound and an MOT failure, not just cosmetic.
Common Symptoms
Flaking paint and rust bubbling at lower bulkhead corners/footwell sides
Wet carpets or footwell water after rain
Rust around heater/fresh-air vent flaps and windscreen frame
Door hinges/pillar feet loose or rotten where they bolt to the bulkhead
Daylight or perforation visible from inside the footwell
How to Fix
Restorers do not patch a far-gone bulkhead with filler — they either cut out and weld in new galvanised repair sections (footwell/vent/top-rail panels) or, on a full rebuild, fit a complete new hot-dip galvanised bulkhead (e.g. Shielder's thicker single-skin galvanised bulkhead, which deletes the original moisture-trapping double skin). The bulletproofing discipline: seam-seal and wax-inject all box sections after fitting, properly bed the windscreen frame on fresh sealant, renew door seals, and bin the water-trapping carpet/underfelt in favour of removable rubber mats so the footwells can dry. Done once in galv, the bulkhead never rots again.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Replace a structurally unserviceable bulkhead after professional assessment Fitment/availability: Defender 110 branch only; select correct 200Tdi/engine, LHD/RHD, finish and vehicle configuration before ordering.
The 200Tdi-era ladder chassis left the factory only painted, never galvanised, so the boxed steel rusts from the inside where mud and water collect and cannot drain. The rear crossmember rots first (it fills with road debris and is hidden behind the rear tub), followed by the body outriggers, the rear spring hangers, and the chassis rails around the rear axle and fuel tank. Galvanic action between the steel chassis and the aluminium body accelerates the rot at every body-mount. Structural chassis rot is an MOT failure and, on a worst case, makes the tub and rear suspension unsafe.
Common Symptoms
Flaky/scaly rust or perforation on the rear crossmember behind the tub
Crumbling outriggers where the body mounts to the chassis
Rust at rear spring hangers and around the fuel tank cradle
Body sitting unevenly / tub shifting on its mounts
Screwdriver pushes through chassis box sections
How to Fix
The proven restorer fix scales with severity: weld in a new galvanised rear crossmember and replacement galvanised outriggers/spring-hanger sections for localised rot, or — the gold-standard rebuild — fit a complete new hot-dip galvanised chassis (Richards/Marsland/Shielder genuine-pattern galv chassis) so it is permanently rust-proof. Bulletproofing discipline after fitting: drill and wax-inject all box sections (Dinitrol/Waxoyl), keep the chassis-to-bulkhead and outrigger drain holes clear, and re-treat every couple of years. A galvanised chassis effectively ends the Defender's defining structural weakness for the life of the truck.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC8354 right-hand galvanized bulkhead outrigger
OEMSTC8354 / SP 4x4 LR513GO-S
Replace a failed right-hand bulkhead outrigger where adjacent chassis metal remains sound Fitment/availability: Retailer lists Defender 90/110/130 1983-2016; verify location and chassis dimensions for the 1990-1994 200Tdi vehicle before …
The early 90/110 left the factory with a painted (not galvanised) steel ladder chassis that begins corroding almost immediately. The rear crossmember sits directly in the spray off the rear wheels and is the first to go; the body-mount outriggers and the chassis rails around the rear spring hangers and fuel-tank crossmember are close behind. The boxed sections fill with mud, road salt and water that can't drain, so they rot from the inside out — a chassis that looks sound from outside can be paper-thin within. A rotten rear crossmember or outrigger is a structural/safety failure and is what scraps most otherwise-restorable early trucks.
Common Symptoms
Flaking/scaly rust and holes on the rear crossmember behind the rear wheels
Crunchy, perforated outriggers where the body mounts to the chassis
Body sagging or moving on its mounts
Screwdriver punches through chassis rails near spring hangers
MOT/roadworthy structural-corrosion failure
How to Fix
The proven restorer fix is to cut out the rot and weld in galvanised repair sections — a galvanised rear crossmember and replacement outriggers are off-the-shelf items. On a heavily-corroded truck the bulletproof move is a complete galvanised replacement chassis (Marsland/Richards), which ends the rot-repair-rot cycle for good. Whichever route, treat the inside of every box section: drill drain holes, flush, and inject cavity wax (Dinitrol/Bilt-Hamber) annually, and underseal the outside. Zinc thermal-spray or hot-dip galvanising is what breaks the corrosion cycle.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC8354 right-hand galvanized bulkhead outrigger
OEMSTC8354 / SP 4x4 LR513GO-S
Confirm right-hand location, original chassis dimensions and sound weldable parent metal; early 127 fitment needs sp
The early 90/110's pressed-steel bulkhead is the single most expensive structural weak point a restorer faces. It is bolted to an aluminium body and a steel chassis, and it traps water at the footwells, the door-hinge box sections, the top corners outside the windscreen hinges, and the bases of the A-posts where the dashboard and door seals hide corrosion until it has eaten right through. Trapped moisture behind carpets and a poorly-sealed windscreen frame accelerates it. By the time a restoration starts, most original steel bulkheads are rotten in at least the footwells and lower corners; you cannot weld to rust, so anything left soft has to be cut out. A holed bulkhead fails MOT/roadworthy on structural grounds and lets water into the cab.
Common Symptoms
Rust holes/bubbling in the footwells and outer bulkhead corners
Water/draughts in the cab, wet carpets
Screwdriver pushes through metal at the windscreen-frame-to-bulkhead seam
Sagging or loose door hinges as the hinge box rots
Fresh-air vent flaps seized in their rotten housings
How to Fix
Restorers either weld in laser-cut, pre-folded zintec/galvanised repair sections (footwell halves, top-corner repair pieces, A-post feet) made from thicker steel than OEM, or — the bulletproof route — fit a complete new hot-dip-galvanised bulkhead so it never rots again. Strip back to bright metal, etch-prime immediately, weld in fresh metal, then seam-seal and cavity-wax all the box sections. Avoid expanding foam (holds water and is flammable). Insulating the steel-to-aluminium joints with closed-cell foam gasket or jointing compound stops the galvanic attack returning.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
YRM004A left footwell repair panel
OEMYRM004A
Confirm the early 127 body/bulkhead and repair extent before cutting.
Repair localized left upper-footwell corrosion while preserving the correct heater/steering opening Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender listing, left side, LHD/RHD. Check etched opening location against the actual early bulkhead bef…
Repair localized right upper-footwell corrosion while preserving the correct heater/steering opening Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender listing, right side, LHD/RHD. Check opening location against the actual early bulkhead.
The early Defender mixes a steel internal door frame with an aluminium outer skin, and steel captive fixings through aluminium panels elsewhere. Where the dissimilar metals touch with salty water present, galvanic corrosion sets in — the steel door frame rots inside the door, the bottoms of the doors bubble and split, and the aluminium around steel bolts/cappings turns to white powdery oxide. The lower bulkhead/footwell aluminium-to-steel joints suffer the same way. It is mild in dry climates but aggressive anywhere road salt is used, and it quietly destroys doors and panel edges on otherwise-saved trucks.
Common Symptoms
Bubbling, splitting and rot along the bottoms of the doors
White powdery aluminium oxide around steel bolts, hinges and cappings
Pitting/flaking where alloy panels meet steel at the footwells
Doors dropping as the internal steel frame rots
Paint lifting in patches on lower panels
How to Fix
The community fix is to break the metal-to-metal contact and the moisture path. Restorers fit fresh galvanised steel door frames (or, popular on builds, replace the whole steel-framed door with a one-piece pressed aluminium 'puddle' door), and isolate every dissimilar-metal joint with closed-cell foam gasket, nylon washers or jointing compound so the two metals never touch bare. Treat existing alloy corrosion by abrading back to bright metal and etch-priming immediately, use zintec/galvanised repair panels for the footwells, and keep door drains clear. Cavity-wax the door internals to keep water out of the frame.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
JWP5061 complete left-hand galvanized-frame front door with aluminum skin
OEMSP Panels JWP5061
Replace a structurally failed left front push-button door assembly Fitment/availability: Defender push-button front-door branch within 1983-1990; retailer describes 1983-2005 fitment. Configure LHD/RHD, lock, regulator, loom and trim; no…
JWP5060 complete right-hand galvanized-frame front door with aluminum skin
OEMSP Panels JWP5060
Replace a structurally failed right front push-button door assembly Fitment/availability: Defender push-button front-door branch within 1983-1990; retailer describes 1983-2005 fitment. Configure LHD/RHD, lock, regulator, loom and trim; n…
Repair localized left-side footwell corrosion where inspection confirms sound surrounding structure Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender 90/110/130; fits LHD and RHD and is supplied in two pieces. Select the correct option and verify…
Repair localized right-side footwell corrosion where inspection confirms sound surrounding structure Fitment/availability: 1983-2016 Defender 90/110/130; fits LHD and RHD and is supplied in two pieces. Select the correct option and verif…
The new Defender has experienced reports of rear quarter windows cracking spontaneously without impact. The issue appears related to thermal stress and the bonding method used to attach the glass. The cracks typically start at a corner or edge and propagate across the glass. Some owners have had multiple replacements under warranty.
Common Symptoms
Crack appearing in rear quarter window without impact
Crack starting from edge of glass
Whistling wind noise from cracked glass
Multiple crack events on same vehicle
How to Fix
Replace the cracked rear quarter window under JLR warranty. If out of warranty, an auto glass specialist can replace the window. JLR has reportedly updated the glass specification and adhesive process on later production vehicles.
Owner tips & cautions
TipDocument the crack with photos and timestamp immediately. JLR is covering most of these under goodwill even out of warranty due to the known issue.
Medium Confidence520 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
The 300Tdi's cast-iron cylinder head develops fine cracks between the valve seats and from the injector bore across to the inlet valve seat. These are almost always the result of a previous overheat or coolant loss — the head warps, the gasket fails, combustion gases push into the coolant, and the head cracks. Once cracked the engine pressurises the cooling system, loses coolant, runs hot and the failure accelerates. A warped-but-not-yet-cracked head guarantees a repeat gasket failure if it is simply re-gasketed without machining.
Common Symptoms
Coolant loss with no obvious external leak; pressurised top hose
White exhaust steam and mayonnaise/oil in the coolant
Overheating under load or after a previous head-gasket job
Bubbling/combustion gases in the expansion tank (sniff-test positive)
Persistent misfire or low compression on one cylinder
How to Fix
The restorer's bulletproofing is to treat the cause, not just bolt a head back on: when the head is off, have it crack-tested and skimmed flat at a machine shop, and reject any head with cracks between/into the valve seats rather than chasing a weld repair (rarely cost-effective and unreliable). Refit with a later-spec multi-layer head gasket and NEW head bolts torqued to the correct sequence, and renew the often-overlooked supporting items at the same time — the P-gasket at the coolant pump, a fresh (not silted) radiator, the viscous fan/cooling, and a new thermostat — so the rebuilt head is never subjected to the overheat that killed the first one. Many restorers fit an electric or uprated cooling setup on hard-worked trucks for margin.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
300TDICYL complete 300Tdi cylinder-head assembly with bolts
OEM300TDICYL; replaces LDF500180/RNL910
Replace a pressure-test-confirmed cracked or unserviceable 300Tdi cylinder head Fitment/availability: Defender 90/110/130 2.5L 300Tdi. Page states a 3-hole gasket is required; verify measured piston protrusion and head/gasket compatibili…
Renew a leaking or disturbed P-gasket while correcting the cooling-system cause Fitment/availability: Defender 300Tdi application listed; supersedes ERR2378. Inspect water-pump housing and bracket sealing surfaces before use.
The Td5 uses torque-to-yield (stretch) head bolts. Over miles and heat cycles they relax, the clamping load drops, and the head starts to 'float' on the block — which also deforms the plastic location dowels (the deformed dowels are a symptom, not the cause). Combustion gases then push into the coolant gallery (classically around No.3 cylinder), pressurising the cooling system, blowing coolant out of the expansion-tank cap, and risking the alloy head if it overheats. Restorers treat a Td5 with mayonnaise, coolant loss or an over-pressurising header tank as a head-off job.
Common Symptoms
Coolant loss and over-pressurising expansion tank / cap blowing off
White mayonnaise emulsion under oil filler cap
Overheating or fluctuating temperature
Combustion gases in coolant (sniff-test positive)
Misfire or rough running from a leaking cylinder
How to Fix
Bulletproof fit: skim/pressure-test the alloy head, then refit with a genuine multi-layer steel head gasket and a FRESH set of correctly torqued-and-angled stretch bolts (never reuse old ones). Crucially, replace the plastic head dowels with steel dowels so the head can't shuffle and re-deform them. Builders use the head-off opportunity to renew the cam-carrier seals, oil-rail seals and rocker cover gasket together. Pair this with the cooling upgrades below so the new gasket isn't cooked by a slipping fan.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA2112-1 Td5 cylinder-head set with one-hole gasket
OEMDA2112-1.AM / LVB000250 family
Provide the sealing set when measurement calls for the one-hole Td5 gasket thickness Fitment/availability: Defender Td5 only after piston-protrusion/removed-gasket confirmation; one-hole branch.
DA2112-2 Td5 cylinder-head set with two-hole gasket
OEMDA2112-2.AM / LVB000240 family
Provide the sealing set when measurement calls for the two-hole Td5 gasket thickness Fitment/availability: Defender Td5 only after piston-protrusion/removed-gasket confirmation; two-hole branch.
Provide the three-hole gasket when measurement calls for that thickness Fitment/availability: Defender/Discovery Td5 three-hole 1.35 mm branch only; select after piston-protrusion and installed-engine confirmation and combine with the ap…
Replace early plastic locating dowels or renew locating dowels during the head repair Fitment/availability: All Defender/Discovery Td5 engines; quantity two required. Confirm existing head/block dowel arrangement.
The Achilles heel of the late 2.2 Puma (the Ford 'Global Puma' / Duratorq DW shared with the Transit). The internal oil pump can break up / lose drive, causing total oil starvation and catastrophic bottom-end failure with very little warning. Early-production EU5 engines (broadly 2012-2013 build, with a defined affected batch) were subject to a Land Rover/Ford service campaign because the original pump design could fail; not every VIN was included and many cars slipped through. A top-end metallic rattle on cold start is often the only early symptom before the engine destroys itself. This is the single failure that turns a £3-4k engine into scrap, so it is the first thing a restorer must verify on a 2012-2016 car.
Common Symptoms
Metallic rattle/ticking from front of engine on cold start
Low oil pressure warning light
Sudden loss of power followed by seizure
Knocking from bottom end
No prior leak or smoke before failure
How to Fix
Bulletproofing protocol restorers follow: (1) Confirm via VIN whether the Ford/LR oil-pump service campaign was carried out — if there is no proof, fit the superseded/updated oil pump as a precaution rather than waiting. (2) Adopt a hard 8,000-mile / annual oil change discipline using only Ford WSS-M2C913-C (5W-30 C1/C2 low-SAPS) oil — long intervals starve and sludge the pump drive. (3) Treat any cold-start top-end rattle as a stop-driving event and pull the front cover to inspect the pump and timing chain together. (4) On a full rebuild, replace the oil pump, pickup, chain, guides and tensioner as one job so the lubrication system is known-good for the life of the restoration.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Pierburg LR058095 oil pump
OEMPierburg 7.03040.07.0 / Land Rover LR058095
Earlier VINs require catalog confirmation before ordering.
Replace a worn or damaged oil-pump drive chain during pump service or engine rebuild Fitment/availability: 2007-2016 Defender 2.2L/2.4L Puma application listed by the retailer.
When Rover stretched the alloy V8 from 89mm to 94mm bores for the 3.9, the parent-bore casting left as little as ~2mm of aluminium between the water jacket and the pressed-in iron 'parent bore' liner. There is no counter-bore or ridge at the bottom of the bore to locate the liner, so thermal cycling (especially after any overheat episode, common on these once the cooling system ages) lets the liner creep down or the thin top deck crack. On an NAS truck that has sat or been worked hard during a restoration, this shows up as coolant loss, a tap that comes and goes hot, and eventual head-gasket/coolant-in-oil failure. It is THE defining structural weakness of the 3.9/4.0 block restorers must price in before buying.
Common Symptoms
Coolant disappearing with no visible external leak
Pronounced top-end tapping that comes and goes once hot
Overheating / coolant dumped from expansion tank
Mayonnaise in oil or oil in coolant
Misfire after a heat-soak
How to Fix
Don't just re-shell and hope. The proven bulletproofing is a full rebuild with TOP-HAT cylinder liners — thicker liners with a flange machined into a counter-bore at the top of the deck so the liner physically cannot slip downward, plus the block decked/line-bored true. Do all 8 even if only one has moved. Couple it with disciplined cooling-system renewal (new alloy radiator, fresh hoses, correct OAT-compatible coolant) so the rebuilt block never sees the overheat that started the cycle. Pressure-test the bores at operating temperature before reassembly to catch a cracked deck.
The 200Tdi cylinder head has a known design weakness: the casting 'bridge' between the valve seats is very thin, and on a high-mileage or once-overheated engine it cracks across that bridge. The cracks let combustion gases into the coolant (and coolant loss), and a cracked head is the classic 200Tdi failure that restorers plan around. Land Rover acknowledged it implicitly — the later 300Tdi head was redesigned with a much wider, stronger inter-valve bridge specifically to cure the 200Tdi's cracking. Once cracked there is no reliable repair; specialists advise replacement.
Common Symptoms
White exhaust smoke / sweet smell, coolant disappearing with no external leak
Pressurised coolant header tank, bubbles in coolant when running
Mayonnaise/emulsion under the oil filler or chronic overheating
Persistent misfire or compression loss on one cylinder
Visible crack between valves once the head is off
How to Fix
Restorers don't gamble on a tired original head. The bulletproofing route is to fit a known-good/reconditioned 200Tdi head that has been pressure-tested and crack-checked, OR — the popular durability upgrade — convert to a 300Tdi cylinder head (with the matching 300Tdi head gasket and the correct injector/manifold details), which has the stronger, redesigned inter-valve bridge that resists cracking. Combine with a quality multi-layer head gasket, fresh head bolts, and a properly working cooling system so the new head is never cooked. Restorers also keep the engine from overheating (see cooling entry) as the root cause of bridge cracking.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Rebuilt RTC6896-family 200Tdi cylinder head
OEM200TDICYL / replaces RTC6896E and RTC6896
Replace a pressure-test-confirmed cracked or unserviceable 200Tdi cylinder head Fitment/availability: Defender 90/110/130 with the 200Tdi engine only. Core charge applies; confirm included valves/components, casting condition and exact e…
Early 300Tdi engines (the 1994-mid/late-1996 build, before the factory mod) suffer a timing-belt alignment fault: the belt tracks against the edge of the idler/pulley and progressively shreds itself, or the front cover/seal lets oil onto the belt. A 300Tdi is an interference engine running the injection pump off the same belt, so a belt failure means bent valves, a wrecked head and often a scrapped engine. Even on later engines, the factory 72k-mile interval is far too long for a hard-worked or wading vehicle, and a single dry/contaminated idler bearing can take the belt out early.
Common Symptoms
Squealing or rumble from the timing cover (failing idler/tensioner bearing)
Belt dust or shredded belt material inside the front cover
Oil weeping from the crank seal onto the belt area
Sudden no-start / loss of compression after a snapped belt
Unknown or overdue belt-change history on a high-miler
How to Fix
Restorers convert every early engine to the LATER-TYPE timing arrangement using the modified/upgraded kit (e.g. STC4096L/STC4096K) which fits the corrected idler, tensioner, crank gear, belt and front-cover gasket so the belt tracks true — this is the proven 'bulletproof' fix, not just a like-for-like belt. They then halve the service discipline: change the belt and BOTH bearings at 36,000 miles or every 3-4 years for off-road/dusty/wading use rather than the OEM 72k, fit a known-brand belt (Gates/Dayco), set tension with the correct gauge/tool, and renew the crank front oil seal at the same time to keep oil off the new belt.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Convert an early or uncorrected 300Tdi to the later belt-tracking arrangement during timing service Fitment/availability: All Defender 300Tdi engines per retailer; kit includes ERR1092 belt, LHP100860 tensioner, LHV100150 idler, LHH10066…
On many early Td5 engines Land Rover never applied threadlock to the oil pump drive sprocket bolt behind the front timing cover. With nothing locking it, the bolt slowly works loose; once it backs off, the sprocket spins on the pump shaft without driving the pump. Oil pressure collapses instantly and — because there is rarely any warning — it wipes the crank, mains and big-ends, turning a running engine into a rebuild. A related front-cover dowel misalignment can also overstress and shatter the pump gears. This is THE engine-ending Td5 fear restorers check for first, and it is largely confined to the earlier (pre-late-2003) build before LR revised the fix.
Common Symptoms
Sudden loss of oil pressure / oil light with no prior warning
Knocking or rumble from bottom end after pressure drop
Engine seizes shortly after pressure loss
On strip-down: oil pump bolt found loose or with no threadlock residue
How to Fix
The proven restorer fix is to pull the front timing cover/sump and fit the later updated oil pump bolt, torque it correctly AND lock it with high-strength threadlock (Loctite 243/270) — do not trust a 'tight' bolt that has no locking compound on it, as owners routinely find them dry. While in there, confirm the two front-cover dowels are correctly seated so the pump gears aren't side-loaded, and inspect the pump gears. Doing this once during a rebuild permanently removes the single biggest Td5 grenade. Many builders also fit the uprated pump/gear set at the same time.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Renew the pump-drive chain and sprocket only when inspection confirms wear or damage Fitment/availability: Defender and Discovery 2 Td5; condition-based branch, not an automatic companion to every bolt inspection.
When Land Rover turbocharged the well-liked 2.5 naturally-aspirated diesel to create the 19J, they bolted the turbo on without adequately strengthening the bottom end. Owners and rebuilders report internal cracks developing in the cylinder block and cracked/holed pistons appearing at surprisingly low mileage under boost. Compounding this, the engine-breather design is poor: it lets oil mist contaminate the air filter, which can then be drawn back into the intake and — in a worst case — cause diesel engine runaway, where the engine feeds on its own oil and over-revs uncontrollably until it destroys itself. Early-build 19Js also have a weaker cylinder head than the later revision.
Common Symptoms
Coolant loss / overheating with no external leak (cracked block)
Sudden surge then stall, or uncontrolled over-rev (runaway)
Heavy oiling of the air filter and intake
Blue smoke, rising oil consumption, low compression on a cylinder
Hard cold starting and long warm-up
How to Fix
The bulletproofing restorers actually do: fit a late-spec strengthened 19J head (or move to the much tougher 200Tdi, the period-correct and hugely popular upgrade that drops straight in with the right mounts/wiring and roughly doubles reliability and economy). If keeping the 19J, re-route and improve the crankcase breather (catch-can / oil separator) so oil can't reach the intake, keep boost conservative (some owners wind the turbo back toward NA levels), and service oil every ~3,000 miles. Treated this way the block survives; abused, it cracks. A correctly-set anti-runaway intake shut-off is cheap insurance.
Oil leaks are a near-universal Rover V8 trait, and on these the drip blamed on the 'rear main seal' is usually the cross/crucifix (T) seals in the rear main cap, or sump bolts that thread into the main cap and wick oil down their threads. The engines are designed to run under a slight crankcase vacuum, so a blocked/failed breather lets crankcase pressure build and pushes oil past every gasket. Left alone it coats the bellhousing and can soak a manual clutch.
Common Symptoms
Oil drip from the bellhousing / back of the engine
Oily clutch / clutch slip on manual trucks
Low oil level with no smoke
Oil film over the gearbox and crossmember
Leak worsens with crankcase pressure (bad breather)
How to Fix
Do it once, properly, during the rebuild while the engine is out. Replace the rear crank seal AND the crucifix/T-seals, seal the main-cap sump-bolt threads (thread sealant, not just a washer), and renew the sump and timing-cover gaskets. Crucially, restore the crankcase ventilation: clear/replace the breather and PCV path so the engine pulls its designed slight vacuum instead of pressurizing — that's what keeps the new seals dry. Verify the oil-pump/front-cover sealing at the same time since it shares the leak symptoms.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
ERR2640 V8 rear crankshaft oil seal
OEMERR2640 / RNM125 / supersedes 611409
Replace a confirmed leaking rear crankshaft lip seal on the NAS Rover V8 branch Fitment/availability: Rover V8 3.9 and 4.0 applications including Defender V8; verify installed engine identity and seal arrangement.
Renew the rear-main-cap cruciform seals when cap-side leakage is confirmed Fitment/availability: Defender Rover V8 applications including 3.9/4.0; two required per engine and workshop procedure required.
Renew the matching PCV-to-manifold hose when inspection confirms deterioration in that ventilation layout Fitment/availability: V8 PCV branch; retailer lists Defender V8 emissions and replaces ERR4764/RNM098. Confirm the actual 4.0 GEMS/…
The carburettor-era Rover 3.5 V8 fitted to early V8 90/110s is fundamentally tough but is notorious for oil leaks at the back of the engine. The rear of the crank is sealed by a two-piece arrangement and the rear main bearing cap seals to the block with side (cruciform/cross) seals; with age the lip seal hardens and, just as often, the leak is actually from where the rear main cap meets the block. Oil then drips from the bellhousing-to-gearbox joint, so restorers frequently chase a 'gearbox leak' that is really the engine. Left alone it drops oil onto the clutch and steadily empties the sump.
Common Symptoms
Oil drips forming at the bellhousing/gearbox joint at idle
Oil-soaked clutch, slipping or judder
Falling oil level with no obvious top-end leak
Oily patch under the centre of the vehicle after parking
How to Fix
Because access means dropping the gearbox/transfer box and removing the flywheel, restorers do the whole job once and properly: fit the latest-spec rear crankshaft oil seal (the improved one-piece/uprated seal where applicable), renew the cruciform side seals, and bed the rear main cap with RTV/Hylomar on the horizontal faces so the cap-to-block joint can't weep. Do it with the engine out on a bench if the build allows, true up the crank flange, and replace the clutch and rear gearbox input seal at the same time since you are already in there. Done correctly the back of the engine stays dry.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
ERR2640 V8 rear crankshaft oil seal
OEMERR2640 / RNM125 / supersedes 611409
Replace a confirmed leaking rear crankshaft lip seal during the rear-main-cap repair Fitment/availability: Rover V8 3.5/3.9/4.0/4.6 applications including Defender V8; verify the installed 3.5 engine and crank/seal arrangement before fit…
Renew the rear main bearing cap side/cruciform seals using the documented cap procedure Fitment/availability: Defender 90/110/130 Rover V8 applications; two seals are used per engine, so confirm quantity and workshop procedure.
Renew a cracked, blocked or collapsed hose in the 3.5 V8 crankcase ventilation path Fitment/availability: 3.5 and 3.9 Rover V8 only; verify the actual carburettor/EFI breather layout and hose routing before ordering.
The Ford-sourced MT82 6-speed (fitted to every Puma) has a notorious dry spline where the rear output shaft mates into the LT230 transfer box. Because that spline runs effectively unlubricated, it 'frets' and wears away exactly like the earlier LT77/R380 mainshaft splines, eventually rounding off and giving a complete loss of drive even though the engine and gearbox sound fine. It is widely believed a batch of Pumas also left the factory under-filled with gearbox oil, accelerating the wear. Restorers consider this, alongside the oil pump, the defining mechanical weak point of the era.
Common Symptoms
Sudden total loss of drive with engine still running
Graunching/grating felt through the floor under load
Metallic debris on transfer box drain magnet
Clutch fine but no power to wheels
Noise that varies with road speed not engine speed
How to Fix
Proven bulletproofing: (1) Pull the transfer box and inspect/measure the output-shaft spline as a matter of course during a build — re-spline or replace the output shaft before it strips rather than after. (2) On reassembly, smear the spline with a high-quality moly/anti-fret grease (the 'dry spline' fix) so it is never run dry again. (3) Verify and correct the MT82 oil level/fill (MTF94 or GL-4 75W-90) — under-fill is a known contributor — and adopt a ~80k service interval. (4) Fit the LTB00585 selector-bush update and an uprated selector detent kit while the box is out to cure the related clunky/notchy change.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Ashcroft upgraded MT82 output-shaft kit
OEMAshcroft MT82 upgraded output-shaft kit; replaces coupling i
Confirm wear location, transfer-box input condition and optional mainshaft seal before ordering.
The early manual NAS trucks (notably the 1994 D90) ran the LT77S five-speed, which does not cope with the V8's torque. It lacks the lubrication feed the later box has and strips its 2-3 synchro and gears — Land Rover replaced these under warranty across the 1994 NAS D90 fleet. Both the LT77 and the early R380 also starve the rear of the mainshaft, 5th gear and the transfer-box input gear of oil, and the classic failure is the mainshaft spline wearing away so it no longer drives the transfer-box input gear. 1996/1997 trucks moved to the R380 (and 1997 to the ZF auto), but a surviving LT77 is living on borrowed time.
Common Symptoms
Crunch/baulk into 2nd and 3rd (worn synchro)
Jumping out of 5th gear
Whine or no drive after the box (worn mainshaft spline)
Grinding under load
Metal in the gearbox oil
How to Fix
The accepted bulletproofing is to swap the LT77 for a heavy-duty R380 built with the uprated lubrication, larger/stronger roller bearings and synchro cones — and ideally the later/stronger input shaft (FTC5044 in place of the earlier FTC3928) so the weak primary shaft isn't the failure point. Many restorers also fit the high-ratio 5th gear (≈0.732) at the same time to drop V8 highway revs. Keep the box topped with the correct fluid and confirm the transfer-box input gets oil — the cheap insurance that prevents the spline-wear death.
The Puma's MT82 uses a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) — the hydraulic release bearing lives inside the bellhousing around the gearbox input shaft. Its internal seal fails progressively, leaking clutch fluid internally with no external puddle, so the biting point drops toward the floor, the pedal goes spongy and eventually the clutch won't disengage and gears can't be selected with the engine running. Because the CSC is buried, replacing it means pulling the gearbox — exactly the job a restorer wants to do once, not twice.
Common Symptoms
Clutch biting point dropping toward the floor
Spongy/inconsistent clutch pedal
Clutch fluid reservoir dropping with no visible leak
Crunching into gear / can't select gears with engine running
Clutch fails to fully disengage
How to Fix
Bulletproofing: (1) Never replace a CSC on its own — when the box is out for any reason, fit a full clutch kit AND an uprated CSC together so the whole clutch system is fresh for the rebuild. (2) Use a quality/OE-spec or heavy-duty CSC rather than the cheapest pattern part, which is the part most likely to fail again early. (3) Bleed the system properly (the CSC is awkward to bleed) and replace the clutch hydraulic line/master if tired. (4) Combine the job with the MT82 spline/selector and gearbox-oil work above so one gearbox-out covers every known transmission weak point.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LOF ROADspec Puma clutch, flywheel and updated concentric slave-cylinder kit
OEMLOF ROADPUMAFLYWHEEL / GTIN 5060794460782
The 2.4L may require the separately listed adapter and bleed valve; verify VIN, use profile and original components.
The 300Tdi runs the early-suffix R380 manual gearbox, which is the weak link in the driveline. The 3rd/4th synchro baulk ring wears — particularly the slot that locates the synchro slipper — letting the baulk ring rotate too far and block engagement, giving a notchy or baulked change especially on the 3rd-to-2nd and into-3rd shifts when the box is hot. The box also runs hot and is fussy about oil; the wrong fluid makes the change crunchy. Left alone, worn synchros lead to a crunch into gear and eventually a rebuild.
Common Symptoms
Notchy or baulking change into 3rd/4th, worse when hot
Crunch on fast 3rd-to-2nd downshifts (worn synchro)
Jumping out of gear or vague gate selection
Heavy/sticky shift improved by an oil change (sign of wrong/old fluid)
Restorers bulletproof the R380 rather than nurse it: rebuild with the LATER-TYPE baulk rings and uprated synchros (and check/adjust the selector bias plate and turret detents, the cheap fix many people miss), and on a hard-worked truck step up to a later suffix-K/L or specialist (Ashcroft) rebuild with the uprated bearings and wider gear teeth for a genuinely stronger box. Critically, fill ONLY with the correct MTF94 / approved gear oil (not ATF) — using the right oil alone transforms the cold-shift quality and slows synchro wear. Renew the clutch fork and release components while the box is out, as the fork wears thin and the centre punches through.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Ashcroft configured rebuilt R380 gearbox
OEMAshcroft R380 configured rebuild
Replace or rebuild an internally failed R380 with vehicle, serial and upgrade choices captured at ordering Fitment/availability: 1994-1998 Defender 90/110/130 300Tdi only after confirming the installed unit is an R380 and supplying its s…
Early 90/110s use the LT77 5-speed (four-cylinder diesels, 1983-89) or the LT85 (V8, from 1984), and both share a weakness around fifth gear. On the LT77 the overdrive 5th is effectively an add-on hung off the end of the mainshaft/layshaft and is poorly supported; the rear mainshaft bearing wears, giving a tell-tale clicking or whine in 5th, and in the worst cases 5th can shear off the layshaft or the box jumps out of 5th. Heavy towing or sustained high-speed running — exactly what people do once a restored truck is back on the road — is what kills it. The LT85 is stronger but also dislikes abuse and can lose 5th.
Common Symptoms
Clicking, whine or rumble only in 5th gear
Jumps out of 5th gear on overrun
Whine that changes with road speed (worn output bearing)
Difficult shift / lost synchro on 2nd as oil ages
Metallic debris on the drain magnet
How to Fix
Restorers don't keep nursing a worn box — they rebuild it properly through a known specialist (Ashcroft and similar), fitting new mainshaft and layshaft bearings, fifth-gear components and synchros, and setting it up to spec. The bulletproofing details: use the correct gear oil (many specialists spec a specific grade — wrong oil ruins synchro feel), don't lug heavy loads in 5th, and keep the gearbox/transfer breathers clear so water can't be sucked in. A correctly rebuilt LT77/LT85 with fresh bearings is reliable; reusing a clicking rear bearing just guarantees a repeat failure.
Factory NAS chassis were NOT hot-dip galvanized. The boxed rear crossmember and the bulkhead/body outriggers are the first thing to rot: mud, road salt and trail debris pack into the box sections from the open ends and corrode them from the inside out, so a frame that looks tidy underneath can be paper-thin where it matters. This is the single biggest structural buying-trap on a 1993-1997 Defender — it hides behind underseal and fresh paint and it is an MOT/structural-integrity item, not cosmetic.
Common Symptoms
Flaky, scaling steel on the rear crossmember
Screwdriver punches through the box section
Sagging tub or rear body mounts
Underseal bubbling over the crossmember/outriggers
Rust streaks at the open ends of the chassis box
How to Fix
For a keeper, the restorer move is a full galvanized chassis swap (Richards/Marsland-type) or, if the front rails are solid, a half-chassis or new galvanized rear crossmember + replacement outriggers welded in. Spot-weld and measure twice before fully welding so the body still bolts up. Even on a galvanized chassis, cavity-wax the internal box sections and dinitrol the seams — galvanizing protects the outside but trapped mud still wins long-term. Replacing rotten outriggers also restores the body/bulkhead mounting points the corrosion was undermining.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR721HDG heavy-duty galvanized rear crossmember with short extensions
OEMLR721HDG
Confirm tank, anti-roll-bar, tow and cage/body mounting requirements.
LR513GN-S galvanized left front bulkhead outrigger
OEMLR513GN-S / STC8355
Replace the left bulkhead/body outrigger when structural inspection confirms localized corrosion Fitment/availability: Left-hand front bulkhead outrigger for Defender 90/110/130 1983-2016; confirm the failed location and surrounding rail…
LR513GO-S galvanized right front bulkhead outrigger
OEMLR513GO-S / STC8354
Replace the right bulkhead/body outrigger when structural inspection confirms localized corrosion Fitment/availability: Right-hand front bulkhead outrigger for Defender 90/110/130 1983-2016; confirm the failed location and surrounding ra…
The front swivel housings use a chromed steel ball running against a lip seal to keep oil/grease in around the CV joint. Stone chips and surface rust pit the chrome; once a chip is dragged under the seal it tears it, and the swivel weeps oil down the housing and contaminates the front brakes. Worn or incorrectly shimmed swivel pin preload lets the ball move so the seal can never hold — a leaking swivel that's just been resealed is usually a preload/ball-condition problem, not a bad seal.
Common Symptoms
Oil weeping down the swivel housing
Grease/oil contaminating the front brakes
Low front diff/swivel oil level
Visible pitting or rust on the chrome ball
Steering notchiness from wrong preload
How to Fix
Reseal it as a system, not a single seal. Replace the swivel ball with a later Teflon/PTFE-coated ball (resists the rust/pitting that wrecks seals), renew the top/bottom swivel pins and set the swivel-pin PRELOAD correctly with shims (measured on a spring scale at the track-rod) so the ball can't move. Fit a full reseal kit — large seal, oil seals, felt, gaskets and crush washers — and on a restoration switch the housing to the recommended one-shot grease/oil per spec. Correct preload + a good ball is what makes the reseal actually last.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RNA3178 complete swivel-ball rebuild kit
OEMRNA3178 / DA3178 / DA3178G
Rebuild one pitted or mechanically worn front swivel on the 1994-1995 NAS 90 branch Fitment/availability: Defender 90 NAS 1994-1995, one side. Also listed for non-NAS LA-WA Defender; not the 1997 NAS 90 kit and not approved for the 1993 …
Rebuild one front swivel using the dedicated 1997 NAS 90 configuration Fitment/availability: 1997 Defender 90 NAS only, one side; includes the grease-style ball, ABS-type upper-pin components, bearings, shims and seals shown in the confi…
The front axle swivel ball housings (the chromed steel balls that carry the CV joints and steering) are a classic weep point on this era. The lower swivel seal lets EP90/swivel grease escape, leaving the tell-tale oily run down the swivel and starving the CV/bearings of lube. The usual chain of causes: a blocked axle breather pressurises the housing and pushes lube past the seal; loose swivel bearing pre-load opens a gap at the bottom of the seal; and a chrome ball that has pitted or chipped (from grit or surface rust) shreds the seal so it never holds again. Left unattended it leads to worn CVs, notchy steering and eventually dry, damaged front hubs.
Common Symptoms
Oily film/run of lube down the front swivel ball
Low or empty swivel housing lubricant level
Pitting, chips or surface rust visible on the chrome swivel ball
Notchy or knocking steering, clicking CV on full lock
Grease/water emulsion in the housing after wading
How to Fix
Restorers do a proper swivel rebuild rather than just smearing on a new seal: replace the swivel ball if the chrome is pitted/chipped (a worn ball will destroy any new seal), fit new top/bottom swivel seals and joint, set the correct swivel bearing pre-load with a fresh shim/spring stack, and refill with the correct lubricant (one-shot grease or EP gear oil per spec). The key bulletproofing step is the axle breather: fit a remote, raised breather hose so the housing can't pressurise (and can't suck water when wading), which is the single biggest cause of repeat leaks. Done properly the swivels stay dry and the CVs live a long life.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA3167 complete early Defender swivel-housing kit
OEMBritpart DA3167 / UPC 5056342718498
Confirm axle identity, non-ABS configuration and whether the vehicle has retained its original axle before ordering.
The front axle swivel balls weep oil/grease down the housing. Two era-typical causes: the chromed swivel surface chips, and as a chip sweeps past the lip seal it shreds it; and the one-piece axle breather blocks with mud, so pressure builds and forces lubricant past seals. Worn top/bottom swivel pin bearings add play that opens the seal further. Left alone it empties the swivel, starves the CV and stains the driveway — a standard Td5 axle refresh item.
Common Symptoms
Oil/grease weeping from front swivel housing
Greasy film on inside of front wheels
Play when rocking the wheel top-to-bottom (swivel pins) that persists with the brake applied
Low swivel oil level
How to Fix
Restorer fix is a full swivel reseal done right: strip the swivel, inspect the chromed ball and REPLACE it if chipped/pitted (a chipped ball will keep killing seals), renew the swivel pin bearings, and fit a fresh seal kit with the correct fill. Critically, clear or RELOCATE the axle breather to a raised, extended breather (a common bulletproofing upgrade that also helps wading) so internal pressure can't push lube past the new seals. Many builders convert from the old oil fill to a one-shot grease/CV-grease pack for cleaner long-term sealing.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Steering happens through chrome-plated steel swivel balls on the front axle that the swivel seals wipe against to keep the diff/axle oil in. Stone chips, mud and age cause the chrome to chip and the exposed steel to rust and pit, especially on the lower front face. Once pitted, the swivel seal is shredded and the swivel/axle oil leaks out and contaminates the brakes, while grit gets past the seal into the swivel housing. Run low on oil, the CV/swivel bearings wear and steering gets notchy. It's one of the most common 'why is it leaving an oil mark' faults on a restored early Defender.
Common Symptoms
Oil weeping from the front swivel housings, marks on the drive
Visible chipped chrome and brown pitting on the swivel ball
Low/empty swivel oil, grease/oil on the front brakes
Notchy or heavy steering, play at the wheel
Clicking CVs from grit ingress and oil starvation
How to Fix
Restorers don't just replace seals onto a pitted ball — they fix the cause. Lightly pitted balls are dressed back, filled and smoothed; anything badly pitted gets a full swivel kit with new chrome or, better, Teflon/Railko-coated swivel balls (e.g. DA3167-type kits) that resist corrosion far longer, plus new swivel seals, joint bearings, gaskets and the inner axle-to-swivel oil seal. Refill with the correct one-shot grease/oil, fit good-quality (often genuine) wheel bearings, and the front end stays oil-tight and steers sweetly.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA3167 complete early Defender swivel-housing kit
OEMBritpart DA3167 / UPC 5056342718498
Verify axle swap history and exact configuration on 1983-1990 90/110/127/County vehicles.
After wading or driving through deep mud, the differential breathers on the Defender can become blocked. This prevents pressure equalization inside the differential housings, leading to seal leaks as internal pressure builds. The front differential is particularly vulnerable as its breather sits lower and is more exposed to water and debris.
Common Symptoms
Differential oil leak after wading
Oil seepage from axle seals
Wet spots under front and rear differentials
Milky differential fluid (water contamination)
How to Fix
Inspect and clean the differential breathers after any wading or deep mud driving. Install extended breather kits that relocate the breathers higher in the engine bay. Check differential fluid levels and condition after any significant water crossing.
Owner tips & cautions
TipInstall a breather extension kit before your first serious off-road trip. It costs under $100 and prevents expensive differential rebuilds.
Medium Confidence290 owner reportsLast reported by owners Jan 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
The 1994-1995 NAS 3.9 runs Lucas' 14CUX 'hot-wire' mass-airflow EFI. Its weakest link is the idle bypass (stepper) air valve, which sticks with age and gives a hunting/fast idle (~1,500 rpm) and stalling — most noticeable descending hills or coming off throttle. Compounding it: the hot-wire airflow meter element gets dirty and skews fuelling, the coolant temp sensor (which the ECU uses to drive the stepper) drifts on these older systems, and ageing injectors clog. The result on a freshly-woken restoration is rough idle, hesitation and codes that send people chasing the wrong part.
Common Symptoms
Hunting or high (~1,500 rpm) idle
Stalling off-throttle or down hills
Throttle-tip-in stumble / hesitation
Rough idle on a 1994-1995 NAS V8
EFI warning / stored two-digit fault code
How to Fix
Read the on-board two-digit fault codes first, then service the system as a whole instead of swapping parts blind: clean or replace the sticking stepper/idle-bypass valve, clean the hot-wire airflow meter element with proper electronics cleaner, replace the (cheap, frequently faulty) coolant temp sensor, ultrasonically clean/flow-test the injectors, and reset the stepper to the factory base (14CUX wants roughly 160-165 steps). Renew aged vacuum hoses to kill the unmetered-air leaks that masquerade as a bad stepper. This restores the crisp idle/throttle response originalists want without converting away from the period 14CUX.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
14CUX stepper motor / idle-air valve
OEM14CUX IAC / ERR5199 application family
Replace a test-confirmed sticking or electrically failed idle-bypass stepper valve Fitment/availability: 1993 Defender 110 NAS and 1994-1995 Defender 90 NAS 3.9L 14CUX applications listed by the retailer. Verify the original valve, conne…
Replace the test-confirmed out-of-range coolant sensor used by the EFI ECU Fitment/availability: 1993 Defender 110 NAS and 1994-1995 Defender 90 NAS are included in the retailer fitment. This is the EFI sensor, not the dashboard gauge se…
The mechanical lift pump bolted to the 300Tdi injection-pump body uses a rubber diaphragm that hardens and cracks with age and heat. As it fails, fuel delivery to the Bosch injection pump drops, so the engine is fine cold but cuts out, hunts or refuses to restart once hot — worst after standing or a hot soak when vapour gets into the lines. It can leave you stranded and is often misdiagnosed as injection-pump trouble. The pump can also leak fuel/oil where the diaphragm splits.
Common Symptoms
Engine cuts out or hunts when hot, fine when cold
Hard hot-start / long cranking after a hot soak
Loss of power under sustained load (fuel starvation)
Fuel weeping from the lift-pump body or its gasket
Air bubbles visible in a clear fuel line / system loses prime overnight
How to Fix
The straightforward proven fix is a new lift pump (it unbolts from the IP body with two bolts), but the restorer's bulletproofing goes further: fit a quality replacement pump WITH a fresh primer, renew ALL the perishable rubber fuel lines and the often-overlooked sediment/banjo seals at the same time, and replace the fuel filter and prime the system properly. On vehicles that suffer recurring hot-fuelling/air-ingress issues, many restorers add a clear in-line primer/water-trap or an electric lift/priming pump to guarantee delivery and make air leaks instantly visible — turning a roadside fault into a non-issue.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
ERR5057 mechanical 300Tdi fuel lift pump
OEMERR5057 / Turner SKU 763
Replace a delivery-test-confirmed failed 300Tdi mechanical lift pump Fitment/availability: 1994-1998 Defender 90/110/130 300Tdi; listing includes gasket, two nuts and two olives. Verify the engine and pipe union arrangement.
The 200Tdi runs a Bosch/CAV-type DPA rotary injection pump fed by a camshaft-driven mechanical lift pump, and both develop documented leaks/faults with age. The lift pump diaphragm hardens and tears (often from dirty fuel/debris) causing fuel starvation, hesitation and stalling — and the pump has a telltale drain hole so a failed diaphragm leaks fuel out rather than diluting the engine oil. On the injection pump itself the throttle-shaft seal, the rear fuel-distribution-block seal/O-rings, and the front shaft seal weep diesel, and the join between the steel hydraulic head and the alloy pump body can seep. None are catastrophic but they cause poor running, hard starting and a persistent diesel smell/leak that fails an inspection.
Common Symptoms
Hesitation, power loss or stalling under load (fuel starvation)
Hard starting / needing to crank to re-prime
Diesel weeping from the injection pump body or shaft seals
Fuel dripping from the lift pump drain hole
Smell of diesel and wet film around the pump after running
How to Fix
Restorers don't just keep topping up — they reseal properly. Rebuild or replace the lift pump with a quality diaphragm kit (and fit a fresh primary filter/agglomerator so debris doesn't kill the new diaphragm again), and reseal the DPA pump with the correct O-ring/seal kit (throttle-shaft seal, distributor-block seals, front shaft seal) rather than living with the weep. The bulletproofing discipline: fit a good water-separating pre-filter, change fuel filters on schedule, and keep the tank/lines clean so the injection system stays healthy. On a full recommission many restorers send the DPA pump to a diesel specialist for a flow-tested reseal so timing and delivery are set correctly.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
STC1190 mechanical fuel lift pump
OEMSTC1190
Replace a delivery-test-confirmed failed 200Tdi low-pressure lift pump Fitment/availability: 1990-1994 Defender 90/110/130 200Tdi; listing also covers earlier diesels. Verify engine, spacer/gasket and pipe connection arrangement.
The Td5's cooling is marginal and degrades as it ages. The viscous fan coupling loses its grip and freewheels instead of locking up when hot, so it stops pulling air at low speed and the truck overheats in traffic or on climbs. Radiators silently pack with dried mud/debris (off-roaders especially), and tired thermostats add to it. Because the alloy head does NOT tolerate prolonged overheating, a slipping fan or blocked rad is a fast route to the head-gasket failure above — so restorers fix cooling as gasket insurance.
Bulletproofing: renew the viscous coupling (or convert to an electric fan, a popular Td5 upgrade that guarantees airflow at idle/low speed and frees a little power), fit a GENUINE thermostat, and either rod-out or replace the radiator — an uprated/larger-core alloy radiator is the common restoration choice. Flush the system, fit a new cap and check the head isn't already compromised. With reliable airflow the new head gasket and alloy head are protected long-term.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PGG500340 viscous coupling and fan
OEMPGG500340; supersedes PGG101050 and PGG000180
Restore airflow when testing confirms a weak or failed viscous coupling/fan assembly Fitment/availability: 1998-2006 Defender Td5 is within the listed application; part also covers later Puma only to the stated chassis. Verify fan, coupl…
Replace a test-confirmed sticking or incorrectly regulating Td5 thermostat Fitment/availability: Defender Td5 application listed. Confirm the vehicle's specified thermostat temperature and VIN before ordering rather than assuming every h…
Replace a pressure-test-confirmed weak or damaged coolant cap Fitment/availability: Defender Td5 and Puma application listed. Confirm the existing tank neck and cap specification.
The 200Tdi's cooling system is only just adequate, and on a restoration project it is usually tired. Years of neglected antifreeze let the radiator silt up and corrode internally, restricting flow; the viscous fan coupling has a high failure rate and stops pulling air at idle/low speed; the water pump impeller can erode or corrode away so it barely moves coolant; and a poor-quality thermostat may not open at the right temperature. Because the 200Tdi head cracks between the valves when cooked (see head entry), chronic overheating here is what triggers the catastrophic engine failure — so restorers treat the whole cooling system as safety-critical, not optional.
Common Symptoms
Temperature climbing on motorway/long hills or when towing
Overheating at idle or in traffic (failed viscous fan)
Slow warm-up or wildly swinging temp gauge (bad thermostat)
Brown/silty coolant, cold spots across the radiator
Coolant loss with no leak (overlaps with cracked head/HG)
How to Fix
Restorers overhaul the cooling system as a package rather than chasing one part: re-core or fit a new uprated radiator (and clean out the silt), fit a new genuine-spec thermostat, renew the water pump if there's any doubt about the impeller, and test/replace the viscous fan coupling. The common durability upgrades are an uprated/high-capacity alloy radiator and, on overland/heavily-used trucks, an electric fan conversion (or intercooler/airflow improvements) to add cooling margin. Refill with fresh correct-strength OAT-free antifreeze on a strict change interval so the new rad doesn't silt up again. A healthy cooling system is the cheapest insurance against the expensive cracked head.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
PLD496HD heavy-duty 200Tdi radiator assembly
OEMPLD496HD; replaces ZBTP1823S/RND496
Replace a flow-test-confirmed blocked, leaking or damaged 200Tdi radiator Fitment/availability: Defender 90/110/130 with Defender-specification 200Tdi engine. Confirm oil-cooler connections, hoses and engine identity before ordering.
Replace a test-confirmed slipping or failed viscous fan coupling Fitment/availability: Defender and Discovery 200Tdi application listed; verify original coupling/fan and thread before ordering.
Replace a test-confirmed sticking or incorrectly regulating thermostat Fitment/availability: Defender 90/110/130 with 200Tdi; order the required gasket separately and confirm thermostat specification.
A hardening rocker-cover/injector seal lets engine oil into the under-cover injector harness. Oil then travels by capillary action ALONG the copper strands inside the loom, past the rocker-cover connector and down the engine loom — sometimes all the way to the ECU's red plug. Once oil corrupts the injector signal path you get bizarre, intermittent faults: misfires, rough idle, hard/no-start, cutting out and random fault codes that chasing sensors won't fix. It is one of the most common and most misdiagnosed Td5 electrical gremlins.
Common Symptoms
Intermittent misfire or rough idle
Hard starting, no-start, or random stalling
Erratic / non-repeatable fault codes
Oil visible in injector connectors or at the ECU red plug
How to Fix
The reliable cure restorers use is to REPLACE the injector harness (part AMR6103, correct for Defender Td5 1999–2006) rather than just clean it — cleaning only buys time because the contaminated strands keep wicking. Fit a fresh rocker-cover gasket and injector seals at the same time to stop oil re-entering, and inspect/clean the ECU red plug for migrated oil. Cheap part (~£30) and roughly a 30-minute job, but it permanently kills a fault that otherwise reappears.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
OEM AMR6103 Td5 injector harness with selectable 10P/15P rocker-cover gasket
OEMAMR6103 plus ERR7094 early or LVP000020 later gasket
Replace an oil-contaminated or electrically failed under-rocker injector harness and renew the correct rocker-cover gasket Fitment/availability: 1999-2006 Defender Td5; select early 10P or later 15P by the actual installed cylinder head,…
JLR documents several bounded Pivi conditions rather than one universal hardware defect. Global Service Action N795 covers specific 2020-2022 Defender vehicles that cannot complete VDC/Pivi Software Over The Air updates and require a wired intervention. A January 2026 JLR update covers 20MY-on Defender wireless CarPlay/Android Auto disconnections near dense Wi-Fi or other RF sources and identifies OS4.4.0 as the software improvement. Separately, NHTSA campaign 25V016/N972 covers certain 2023-2024 Defender vehicles whose touchscreen may be blank at startup and therefore fail to display the rearview camera image.
Common Symptoms
Pivi or VDC Software Over The Air update repeatedly fails
Wireless Apple CarPlay or Android Auto disconnects near dense Wi-Fi or RF sources
Touchscreen is blank at startup and the rearview camera image is unavailable on an affected 2023-2024 vehicle
How to Fix
Match the repair to the symptom and VIN. For wireless projection loss, install the latest available SOTA software, including OS4.4.0 where applicable, and use the Pivi Infotainment Health Check workflow. Vehicles identified for N795 need the JLR wired TCU/GWM/Pivi recovery procedure rather than repeated SOTA attempts. For a blank startup screen or missing rearview image on a 2023-2024 vehicle, check the VIN for 25V016/N972; the dealer software update is free. Do not replace Pivi hardware or use device deletion/re-pairing as a universal repair without the applicable diagnostic result.
Defenders equipped with the optional air suspension (standard on 110 V8 and X models) can develop faults after off-road use. Mud and debris packed around the air springs and height sensors cause incorrect readings and valve block issues. The air springs can be punctured by sharp rocks. The system is more fragile than the standard coil spring setup for serious off-road use.
Common Symptoms
Suspension fault after off-road driving
Uneven ride height after muddy conditions
Height sensor errors
Vehicle not returning to normal ride height
Air spring leak from puncture
How to Fix
Thoroughly wash the undercarriage and air suspension components after any off-road driving. Inspect air springs for damage after trail use. Clear any debris from height sensors and linkages. Recalibrate the system with JLR diagnostics if fault codes persist after cleaning.
Owner tips & cautions
TipIf you plan to do serious off-roading, consider the coil spring Defender. The air suspension is excellent on-road but more vulnerable off-road.
Medium Confidence560 owner reportsLast reported by owners Jan 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
The 300Tdi front axle uses oil-filled (EP90) swivel housings pivoting on chrome swivel balls. With age and grit the chrome on the swivel ball pits and develops flat spots, the swivel seals harden, and the housing weeps EP90 down the back of the swivel — contaminating the brakes and starving the CV/birfield joints of lube. A pitted ball makes it impossible to set the correct steering bearing preload, so the steering goes vague and the leak cannot be cured by a seal alone.
Common Symptoms
EP90 weeping/running down the rear face of the swivel housing
Oily contamination on the front brake drums/discs and backplates
Knocking or vague, heavy steering (incorrect preload from a worn ball)
Visible pitting/flat-spotting on the chrome swivel ball
Low swivel oil level on a service / clicking CV joints
How to Fix
The proven restoration fix is to renew the swivel balls (not just the seals) — fit new chromed swivel balls/housings when the chrome is pitted, new top and bottom swivel seals and joint bearings, and re-shim to the correct preload using a spring balance. Many restorers then convert from EP90 oil to ONE-SHOT GREASE in the swivel housings: it stays put, won't migrate onto the brakes, and is far more tolerant of a marginal seal — the accepted long-life fix for leak-prone swivels. Renew the half-shaft oil seals and ensure the axle breather is healthy at the same time so pressure doesn't push lube past the seals.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
DA3178 complete non-ABS swivel-housing kit
OEMDA3178.AM
Verify actual axle and swap history before ordering.
The Euro 5 2.2 added a DPF, and the EGR/DPF/variable-vane turbo behave as one interlinked system that clogs with soot on short-trip, low-speed use. A carboned EGR dumps extra soot into the DPF, the DPF blocks and forces failed regens (diesel washes into the sump and the oil level rises), and carbon from the EGR/blow-by builds on the VNT turbo vanes so they stick and the engine drops into underboost/limp mode. The EGR cooler can also crack internally and let coolant into the exhaust circuit. This is the cluster of faults that puts a 2.2 into limp mode again and again.
Common Symptoms
Repeated limp mode / power loss when hot or under load
DPF warning light
Black smoke under acceleration
Rising engine oil level and diesel smell
White smoke / coolant loss / mayo on filler (EGR cooler)
Rough loping idle
How to Fix
Restorer bulletproofing for an off-road/show build: (1) Where legal for use, fit a proper EGR blanking/delete plate with a matching ECU remap so the intake stops sooting up at source (a widely-offered Puma upgrade) — for road-legal cars, decarbonise the EGR every ~40k and replace a cracked EGR cooler with an uprated unit. (2) Walnut-blast or chemically de-coke the VNT turbo vanes and free/replace the corroded vacuum actuator rather than condemning the turbo on a P0299 alone. (3) Strip and clean or recore the DPF and run an Italian-tune-up / forced regen; only replace if soot loading is past recovery. (4) Lock in 8,000-mile low-SAPS (WSS-M2C913-C) oil changes and a known-good thermostat so regens complete and diesel dilution stops.
The camshaft-driven tandem vacuum/fuel pump that supplies the brake servo has a front oil seal that hardens and leaks. Dirt ingress past the pump pulley seal damages the lip, and engine oil then weeps out — owners chase a mystery oil leak/oil consumption down the left side of the engine that isn't the sump or rocker cover. In the worst case air ingress reduces servo assistance, so it is a brake-relevant fault as well as an oil leak, and on a restoration it is an easy win to seal up while the engine is accessible.
Common Symptoms
Oil staining/weep down the left side of the engine bay
Gradual oil consumption with no sump or rocker leak
Reduced brake servo assistance / harder pedal
Oil around the vacuum pump / pulley area
How to Fix
Bulletproofing: (1) Replace the vacuum-pump front oil seal with the correct seal kit rather than ignoring the weep — and keep the pulley/seal area clean so grit doesn't re-chew the new lip. (2) If the pump body or internal vanes are worn, fit a complete uprated pump assembly rather than reseal a tired unit. (3) Confirm full servo vacuum after the repair (and check the non-return valve and servo hose) so braking assistance is restored. (4) Degrease and inspect afterwards so any future leak is obvious against clean metal.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
LR044088 vacuum-pump seal
OEMLand Rover LR044088
Repair a confirmed vacuum-pump sealing-interface oil leak on the 2.2L branch Fitment/availability: Defender 2.2L Puma only; supersedes LR022162. Verify VIN and actual leak source.
Repair a confirmed vacuum-pump gasket oil leak on the 2.4L branch Fitment/availability: Defender 2.4L Puma/Duratorq only. Verify VIN and actual leak source.
Replace the complete pump only after confirming low vacuum, mechanical wear or a non-serviceable pump-body leak Fitment/availability: 2007-2016 Defender 2.4L and 2.2L Puma applications listed; supersedes LR012183 and LR014973. Confirm VI…
Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Land Rover) is recalling certain 2023 Land Rover Defender 130 vehicles equipped with third-row seats. The third-row seatback latch may not latch properly, reducing the strength of a child seat installed to the top tether.
Campaign #23V13700002/03/2023
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:OIL/LUBRICATION
Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC (Land Rover) is recalling certain 2019-2023 Range Rover Sport, 2020-2023 Range Rover, Defender, 2022-2023 Discovery, and 2023 Range Rover Velar vehicles. The engine cam carrier oil channel may be blocked, which can lead to an oil leak.
What year Land Rover Defender is the most reliable?
Reliability varies across model years of the Land Rover Defender. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1983-2025 Land Rover Defender with 44 documented issues documented across 1,370+ owner reports.
What is the 1998-2006 Land Rover Defender Galvanised-era chassis still rots at the rear crossmember, spring hangers and gearbox crossmember mounts?
Despite the era's reputation, the Td5 chassis is NOT galvanised from the factory and rots in the classic mud/water traps: the boxed rear crossmember, the rear spring hangers (corrosion often hidden until the coils are removed), and the chassis rails where the gearbox crossmember… Repairs typically run $400-$4,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1998 Land Rover Defender Steel bulkhead corrosion (footwells, top vent corners, A-post feet)?
The 300Tdi-era Defender's pressed-steel bulkhead (firewall) is the single most expensive corrosion point on the vehicle. Water drains down the windscreen and collects in the lower box sections behind the footwells, around the A-post feet where the bulkhead bolts to the chassis ou… Repairs typically run $800-$4,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1998 Land Rover Defender Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and rear spring/dumb-iron areas?
The 300Tdi Defender's ladder chassis is mild steel, not galvanised from the factory, so on UK/road-salt cars it rots from the inside out. The classic failure zones are the rear crossmember (which traps mud and water and bulges/perforates along its lower edge), the body-mount and… Repairs typically run $600-$5,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1998 Land Rover Defender Cylinder head cracking between valves / injector seat after overheat?
The 300Tdi's cast-iron cylinder head develops fine cracks between the valve seats and from the injector bore across to the inlet valve seat. These are almost always the result of a previous overheat or coolant loss — the head warps, the gasket fails, combustion gases push into th… Repairs typically run $500-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2006 Land Rover Defender Td5 head gasket failure — stretched head bolts and No.3 cylinder-to-coolant leak?
The Td5 uses torque-to-yield (stretch) head bolts. Over miles and heat cycles they relax, the clamping load drops, and the head starts to 'float' on the block — which also deforms the plastic location dowels (the deformed dowels are a symptom, not the cause). Combustion gases the… Repairs typically run $600-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2006 Land Rover Defender Bulkhead corrosion at footwells and bulkhead feet (worsened by factory double-plating)?
The steel bulkhead rusts hard at the bottoms of the footwells, around the door pillars/A-posts and at the 'feet' where it bolts to the chassis outriggers. The factory double-plates (sheet over sheet) the footwells and the area above the transmission tunnel; water sits between the… Repairs typically run $300-$3,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2014 Land Rover Defender 2.2 TDCi (EU5) Oil Pump Disintegration / Oil Starvation?
The Achilles heel of the late 2.2 Puma (the Ford 'Global Puma' / Duratorq DW shared with the Transit). The internal oil pump can break up / lose drive, causing total oil starvation and catastrophic bottom-end failure with very little warning. Early-production EU5 engines (broadly… Repairs typically run $1,500-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2007-2016 Land Rover Defender MT82 Gearbox Rear Output-Shaft Spline Fretting (Loss of Drive)?
The Ford-sourced MT82 6-speed (fitted to every Puma) has a notorious dry spline where the rear output shaft mates into the LT230 transfer box. Because that spline runs effectively unlubricated, it 'frets' and wears away exactly like the earlier LT77/R380 mainshaft splines, eventu… Repairs typically run $600-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2007-2016 Land Rover Defender Rear Crossmember & Chassis Rot (Salt-Belt Corrosion)?
The Puma kept a painted (not galvanised) steel ladder chassis, and the rear crossmember is the first thing to rot — it boxes water and mud around the towing/rear-body mounts and rusts from the inside out, often hidden under undseal. The chassis outriggers, rear inner wings and fu… Repairs typically run $350-$5,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1993-1997 Land Rover Defender Rover 3.9 V8 slipped/cracked cylinder liners?
When Rover stretched the alloy V8 from 89mm to 94mm bores for the 3.9, the parent-bore casting left as little as ~2mm of aluminium between the water jacket and the pressed-in iron 'parent bore' liner. There is no counter-bore or ridge at the bottom of the bore to locate the liner… Repairs typically run $2,500-$8,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1993-1997 Land Rover Defender Rear crossmember and outrigger rot (galvanized chassis fix)?
Factory NAS chassis were NOT hot-dip galvanized. The boxed rear crossmember and the bulkhead/body outriggers are the first thing to rot: mud, road salt and trail debris pack into the box sections from the open ends and corrode them from the inside out, so a frame that looks tidy… Repairs typically run $600-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1993-1997 Land Rover Defender Bulkhead footwell, A-pillar and door-pillar corrosion?
The steel bulkhead is multiple spot-welded, double-skinned layers, and moisture wicks into the hidden joints. On NAS trucks the footwells, the A-pillar/door-pillar junctions and the top corners rot from the inside out, hidden behind trim and easily disguised with paint. Because t… Repairs typically run $500-$4,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1993-1995 Land Rover Defender LT77 gearbox failure behind the V8 (R380 upgrade)?
The early manual NAS trucks (notably the 1994 D90) ran the LT77S five-speed, which does not cope with the V8's torque. It lacks the lubrication feed the later box has and strips its 2-3 synchro and gears — Land Rover replaced these under warranty across the 1994 NAS D90 fleet. Bo… Repairs typically run $1,500-$4,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1994 Land Rover Defender 200Tdi cylinder head cracking in the bridge between the valves?
The 200Tdi cylinder head has a known design weakness: the casting 'bridge' between the valve seats is very thin, and on a high-mileage or once-overheated engine it cracks across that bridge. The cracks let combustion gases into the coolant (and coolant loss), and a cracked head i… Repairs typically run $300-$1,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1994 Land Rover Defender Bulkhead corrosion around footwells, vents and screen frame?
The pressed-steel front bulkhead is the single most expensive structural weak point on a 200Tdi-era Defender and the one restorers fear most. The lower outer corners (footwell box sections), the heater/fresh-air vent apertures, the windscreen-frame mounting flange, and the door-p… Repairs typically run $350-$3,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1994 Land Rover Defender Chassis rot at rear crossmember, outriggers and spring/axle mounts?
The 200Tdi-era ladder chassis left the factory only painted, never galvanised, so the boxed steel rusts from the inside where mud and water collect and cannot drain. The rear crossmember rots first (it fills with road debris and is hidden behind the rear tub), followed by the bod… Repairs typically run $250-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1996 Land Rover Defender Early timing belt misalignment / belt shred?
Early 300Tdi engines (the 1994-mid/late-1996 build, before the factory mod) suffer a timing-belt alignment fault: the belt tracks against the edge of the idler/pulley and progressively shreds itself, or the front cover/seal lets oil onto the belt. A 300Tdi is an interference engi… Repairs typically run $150-$600. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2003 Land Rover Defender Td5 oil pump sprocket bolt backs out — sudden total oil-pressure loss?
On many early Td5 engines Land Rover never applied threadlock to the oil pump drive sprocket bolt behind the front timing cover. With nothing locking it, the bolt slowly works loose; once it backs off, the sprocket spins on the pump shaft without driving the pump. Oil pressure co… Repairs typically run $80-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1986-1990 Land Rover Defender 2.5 Turbo Diesel (19J) block cracks and breather-induced engine runaway?
When Land Rover turbocharged the well-liked 2.5 naturally-aspirated diesel to create the 19J, they bolted the turbo on without adequately strengthening the bottom end. Owners and rebuilders report internal cracks developing in the cylinder block and cracked/holed pistons appearin… Repairs typically run $400-$4,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1983-1990 Land Rover Defender Chassis corrosion — rear crossmember and outriggers rot out?
The early 90/110 left the factory with a painted (not galvanised) steel ladder chassis that begins corroding almost immediately. The rear crossmember sits directly in the spray off the rear wheels and is the first to go; the body-mount outriggers and the chassis rails around the… Repairs typically run $250-$4,500. Severity: high.
