Mazda · Known Issues

1986-2002 Mazda RX-7 Problems: 13 Issues Every Owner Should Know

1986-2002 model years · 600+ owner reports · Updated June 2026

According to Au7o's analysis of 600+ owner reports, the 1986-2002 Mazda RX-7 has 13 documented known issues, with 6 rated critical. The most serious are Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure ($500-$3,000 repair), Overheating and Coolant System Weakness ($300-$800 repair), Apex Seal Failure and Low Compression ($3,000-$6,000 repair), Sequential Twin-Turbo System Failure (Solenoids, Vacuum Lines, Actuators) ($400-$6,000 repair), Turbo II Wastegate Flapper Undersizing — Boost Creep and Overboost ($300-$1,200 repair) and Oil Metering Pump Neglect and Brittle Injection Lines — Apex Seal Starvation ($200-$900 repair). The most commonly reported issue is Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure with 320 owner reports. Across all issues, repair costs range from $50 to $6,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.

All 13 Known Issues

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Community Reported

320 owners

On the 1993-1995 Mazda RX-7 13B-REW, fD RX-7 sequential twin turbo system uses complex vacuum-actuated valves that fail. Pre-control, charge control, and wastegate solenoids deteriorate. Turbo transition between primary and secondary becomes rough or fails.

Common Symptoms

Loss of boost above 4500 RPM
Rough turbo transition
Boost spikes or drops
Check engine light
Turbo whistle changes character
Vacuum line deterioration

How to Fix

Replace all vacuum lines with silicone hose. Replace solenoid valves. Some owners convert to single turbo for reliability. Check turbo bearings for play.

What Owners Are Using

Parts and tips from 320+ owners who fixed this issue

TipReplace ALL vacuum lines with silicone — original rubber lines crack with heat and cause boost control issues
UpgradeTurbo gasket kit prevents boost leaks and oil seepage at the turbo flanges (Dorman Turbocharger Gasket Kit)
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UpgradeBoost gauge helps monitor turbo performance and catch problems early (AutoMeter Mechanical Boost Gauge)
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Typical repair cost:$500 - $3,000

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Community Reported

Low Confidence320 reportsLast reported by owners Mar 2026Reviewed Mar 2026

On the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7, the FD RX-7's 13B-REW twin-turbo rotary engine is inherently prone to apex seal wear and failure. Apex seals are the rotary equivalent of piston rings, and they wear from high temperatures, poor lubrication, and carbon buildup. Seal failure causes low compression, power loss, hard starting, and eventually a non-running engine. Even well-maintained engines typically need a rebuild between 80,000-120,000 miles.

Common Symptoms

Hard starting especially when hot
Loss of power and compression
Uneven idle or stalling
Excessive white smoke from exhaust
Flooding when starting (fuel washes past seals)

How to Fix

Prevent apex seal wear by premixing 2-stroke oil (Idemitsu premix at 1 oz per gallon of gas) in the fuel for additional lubrication. Always warm the engine fully before high-RPM driving. Never shut off a hot engine — idle for 2 minutes first. When seals fail, a full engine rebuild ($3,000-$6,000) with new apex seals, side seals, and corner seals is required. Atkins Rotary and BridgePort Machine are well-regarded rebuilders.

What Owners Are Using

Parts and tips from 0+ owners who fixed this issue

NoteIf you own a 13B-REW, premix 2-stroke oil in your gas — Idemitsu premix at 1 oz per gallon. This is the single most important thing you can do for apex seal longevity. Also NEVER shut off a hot rotary — idle 2 minutes minimum for cool-down.
UpgradePiston ring set restores compression and reduces oil consumption (Mahle Piston Ring Set)
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UpgradeEngine assembly lube for proper ring break-in (Permatex Engine Assembly Lube)
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Typical repair cost:$3,000 - $6,000

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Community Reported

Medium Confidence0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date

On the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 13B-REW, the FD's sequential twin-turbo system relies on 8+ vacuum-controlled solenoids, dozens of small vacuum hoses (the infamous 'rats nest'), check valves, and two actuators to transition between primary and secondary turbo operation around 4,500 RPM. Extreme under-hood heat (often 200°F+ at idle after shutdown) hardens and cracks the rubber hoses, fails the solenoids, sticks the actuator pivots with condensation, and cracks the cast-iron turbo exhaust housings around the wastegate. Result: failure to transition (no secondary turbo), boost spikes, boost creep, fluttering between turbos, or total loss of boost.

Common Symptoms

Boost cuts out above 4,500 RPM (no transition to secondary turbo)
Fluttering or surging boost
Boost spikes above 10 psi (overboost fuel cut)
Audible vacuum leak / hissing in engine bay
Cracks visible on cast-iron turbo exhaust housings
Wastegate actuator arm disconnected or seized

How to Fix

Pressure-test the vacuum system to locate leaks. Replace the entire vacuum hose 'rats nest' with a silicone replacement kit (correct metric ID, with Viton check valves). Bench-test each solenoid for proper actuation; replace failed solenoids individually or as a set. Free up sticky actuator pivots and reseat the secondary-turbo control arm. Inspect turbo exhaust housings for cracks — minor cracks can be left, major cracks require turbo replacement. Many owners eventually convert to a single turbo to permanently eliminate the system.

Typical repair cost:$400 - $6,000

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Community Reported

High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1987-1991 Mazda RX-7, the Hitachi HT-18 turbocharger on the FC Turbo II uses an internal wastegate port of only about 16 mm — roughly half the size used by comparable turbos — and the small flapper door cannot bypass enough exhaust at high RPM. The result is boost creep (boost continuing to climb past the factory ceiling under sustained load) and overboost, which has been observed even on bone-stock cars and gets dramatically worse with any exhaust or intake upgrade. Uncontrolled boost leads to detonation and can destroy the rotary engine if the stock fuel system is exceeded. The earlier S4 (1987-1988) turbo is worst; S5 (1989-1991) units creep less but are still affected.

Common Symptoms

Boost keeps climbing past spec at high RPM instead of holding steady
Boost spikes or overboost cut after exhaust/downpipe upgrades
Pinging or detonation under full throttle
Bucking or sudden power cut at peak boost (overboost fuel cut)
Creep worsens in cold, dense air

How to Fix

The accepted community fix is to remove the turbo, port the wastegate orifice substantially larger, and weld on a larger flapper door that fully covers the enlarged port; many owners do this preventively before raising boost. Until fixed, keep the exhaust restriction stock and watch a known-accurate boost gauge.

Typical repair cost:$300 - $1,200

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High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7, the 13B's oil metering pump (OMP) injects small amounts of engine oil to lubricate the apex and side seals; on the FC it feeds the engine through thin plastic injection lines that become rock-hard and brittle with decades of heat, cracking or snapping when disturbed. A seized pump linkage (S4 cable-actuated units), a failed electronically controlled S5 pump, or broken/leaking lines silently cuts off seal lubrication, and the consequence is accelerated apex seal wear, compression loss, and eventually engine failure. Because the engine still runs normally in the short term, the failure usually goes unnoticed until the damage is done.

Common Symptoms

Plastic oil injection lines cracked, hardened, or weeping oil
Engine oil level never drops between changes (rotaries should consume some oil)
OMP lever or cable linkage seized or sluggish (S4 cars)
Gradual compression and power loss
Harder hot starts as seals wear

How to Fix

Verify the OMP actually moves and delivers oil, reseal or replace a worn pump, and replace age-hardened injection lines as preventive maintenance. Many owners instead block off the system and premix 2-stroke oil into the fuel (roughly 1 oz per 4-5 gallons), which is the accepted alternative as long as it is done every single fill-up.

Typical repair cost:$200 - $900

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Community Reported

Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 1.3L 13B-REW Twin-Turbo Rotary, the FD RX-7's sequential twin-turbo system uses an incredibly complex vacuum hose network to control turbo transition, wastegates, and boost control. The system has dozens of vacuum hoses and solenoids that deteriorate with age, causing boost problems, rough transitions between turbos, and check engine lights. At 25+ years old, virtually every vacuum hose in the system is cracked or hardened. A single failed hose can disable the sequential turbo operation.

This issue also affects: Nissan 300ZX

Common Symptoms

Rough transition between primary and secondary turbo
Boost drop or spike during turbo transition at 4,500 RPM
Check engine light
Erratic idle
Loss of boost above transition point

How to Fix

Replace ALL vacuum hoses with silicone vacuum hose — this is a mandatory maintenance item on any FD RX-7. A complete silicone vacuum hose kit costs $60-$100 from RX-7 vendors. The job takes a full day and requires careful labeling of every hose before removal. Use the Mazda factory service manual vacuum diagrams as reference. Simplified single-turbo conversions ($1,500-$3,000) eliminate the complex vacuum system entirely.

What Owners Are Using

Parts and tips from 0+ owners who fixed this issue

TipEvery FD owner needs to do a full vacuum hose replacement. There are NO exceptions — 30-year-old rubber hoses are guaranteed to be failing. Buy the silicone kit, set aside a weekend, take 200 photos before you start, and label EVERYTHING.
UpgradeTurbo gasket kit prevents boost leaks and oil seepage at the turbo flanges (Dorman Turbocharger Gasket Kit)
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UpgradeBoost gauge helps monitor turbo performance and catch problems early (AutoMeter Mechanical Boost Gauge)
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Typical repair cost:$60 - $3,000

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Community Reported

Medium Confidence0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date

On the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 13B-REW, the FD3S uses four ignition coils (two leading, two trailing) wired through a long harness that runs across the hot rear of the engine bay. The coils themselves fail from heat soak, and the harness insulation cracks and shorts to ground, causing intermittent or sequential coil failures. Symptoms differ depending on which coil set fails: a failed trailing coil causes rough idle but acceptable top-end power, while a failed leading coil causes severe drivability problems but a relatively normal idle. Coil and harness failure is one of the most common drivability complaints on FDs.

Common Symptoms

Rough idle (trailing coil failure)
Misfire / loss of power under load (leading coil failure)
Engine cuts out at high RPM
Visible cracks or burn marks on coil pack body
Coil harness insulation crumbling or cracked
Replacement coils fail again within weeks (root cause is harness)

How to Fix

Test each coil and igniter with a multimeter against Mazda factory resistance specs. Replace failed coils with quality units (Mazdatrix re-manufactured OEM, MSD Blaster, or D585 LS truck coils with an adapter harness — popular upgrade). Critically, inspect the coil sub-harness; if insulation is cracked or wires are brittle, replace the harness or convert to a relocated dwell-controlled coil setup. Spark plugs (BUR7EQ leading / BUR9EQP trailing on stock) should be replaced at the same time and every 15,000–20,000 miles thereafter.

Typical repair cost:$250 - $900

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High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7, all naturally aspirated FC RX-7s use Mazda's 6-port induction (6PI): two auxiliary intake ports per rotor stay closed below roughly 3,800 RPM, then rotating sleeves open them for top-end power. The vacuum/pressure-driven sleeve actuators and the sleeves themselves carbonize and seize if the car spends its life below 4,000 RPM, and the small actuator diaphragms and lines also fail with age. With the ports stuck closed the engine permanently loses roughly 25 hp above 4,000 RPM; stuck-open sleeves hurt low-end torque and idle instead.

Common Symptoms

Engine feels flat or breathless above 4,000 RPM
Roughly 25 hp missing at the top end
No intake note change around 3,800-4,000 RPM where 6PI should engage
Actuator rods seized — cannot be moved by hand or low air pressure
Car drives normally below 3,800 RPM

How to Fix

Free the sleeves by removing the actuators (passenger side, above the exhaust manifold), working the valve shafts loose with penetrating oil, then cleaning off all residue so they do not re-stick; badly seized sleeves require intake removal. Worn actuators can be replaced with OEM or aftermarket kits, and the accepted prevention is regularly revving the engine through the 6PI engagement range.

Typical repair cost:$150 - $800

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Community Reported

High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

Community Reported

280 owners

On the 1990-1995 Mazda RX-7 13B-REW, rotary engines generate extreme heat and the cooling system is barely adequate, especially on turbo models. Radiator, thermostat, and water pump failures cause rapid overheating that quickly damages apex seals.

Common Symptoms

Temperature gauge climbing
Coolant boilover
Steam from engine bay
Temperature spikes in traffic
Fan not engaging

How to Fix

Upgrade to aluminum radiator. Replace thermostat and water pump proactively. Monitor coolant temperature closely. Never drive with high temps — rotary engines suffer immediate seal damage.

What Owners Are Using

Parts and tips from 280+ owners who fixed this issue

TipUpgrade to a Koyo or Mishimoto aluminum radiator — the OEM radiator is marginal for cooling needs
UpgradeDenso OE-quality radiator — direct fit replacement (Denso Radiator)
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UpgradeMishimoto performance aluminum radiator for improved cooling (Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator)
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UpgradeGates water pump — OE-quality replacement with gasket (Gates Water Pump)
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UpgradeGMB water pump — reliable OEM alternative (GMB Water Pump)
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UpgradeStant thermostat — OE-spec temperature control (Stant Thermostat)
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UpgradeGates thermostat with housing for complete replacement (Gates Thermostat)
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Typical repair cost:$300 - $800

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Community Reported

Low Confidence280 reportsLast reported by owners Mar 2026Reviewed Mar 2026

On the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7, the FC's factory ground points — especially the battery ground on the driver's shock tower, which sits exposed to wheel-well water and salt, and the ECU/engine grounds — corrode with age and starve the ECU and sensors of a clean reference. The classic result is the infamous '3,800 RPM hesitation': anything from a slight hiccup to violent bucking right where the ECU brings the secondary fuel injectors online, plus hard hot starts, dim lights, and erratic gauges. Mazda acknowledged the problem in period with a service fix adding an extra ground wire to the boost/pressure sensor on early-production 1986 cars (factory-incorporated after November 1986 production).

Common Symptoms

Bucking or hesitation right around 3,800-4,000 RPM under acceleration
Hard or slow hot starts, lazy cranking
Dim or flickering lights and erratic gauges
Intermittent check engine light
Symptoms improve temporarily after cleaning battery terminals

How to Fix

Clean and refresh every factory ground point (shock tower, starter/bell-housing, ECU grounds), protect them with dielectric grease, and add supplemental 8-10 gauge ground straps from the engine and chassis to the battery negative — forum consensus is this cures the hesitation about 90% of the time. If hesitation persists, clean the secondary fuel injectors and verify the 5th/6th ports (NA cars).

Typical repair cost:$50 - $300

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High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7, unlike later RX-7s, the FC fires its two trailing spark plugs through a dedicated pair of trailing coils and a separate igniter that selects T1 or T2 on the rising/falling edge of an ECU 'select' signal — a system distinct from the leading ignition. Age-failed trailing coils and igniters, corroded connectors, and poor chassis grounding at the coil/igniter mounting bracket silently kill trailing spark; the engine still starts and runs on leading ignition alone, so the failure often goes undiagnosed while the car runs rough at higher RPM with reduced power, worse fuel economy, and higher emissions. A worn crank angle sensor (chipped trigger teeth or incorrect positioning) produces similar high-RPM misbehavior and is part of the same diagnostic path.

Common Symptoms

Rough, fluttery running at higher RPM under load
Noticeable power loss and worse fuel economy
No spark at either trailing plug (T1/T2)
Failed emissions test with otherwise normal running
Erratic tachometer behavior accompanying the misfire

How to Fix

Test for spark at both trailing plugs, check trailing coil resistance and the igniter, and clean/verify the bracket ground and the CAS and igniter connectors; replace failed coils or igniter with known-good OEM units (commonly sourced used, as new parts are scarce). Confirm the crank angle sensor teeth are undamaged and the unit is correctly timed.

Typical repair cost:$150 - $600

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Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7, the FC's Dynamic Tracking Suspension System (DTSS) uses deliberately compliant rubber bushings in the rear hub carriers so cornering loads passively steer the rear wheels (up to about one degree of toe change). After 30+ years these bushings deteriorate, and the calibrated compliance turns into uncontrolled rear toe movement: the back of the car feels vague, sloppy, or twitchy in hard corners and quick transitions, and rear alignment will not stay consistent. On a worn car the rear can feel like it steers itself mid-corner, which undermines driver confidence at speed.

Common Symptoms

Rear end feels vague or twitchy in quick transitions and hard corners
Car seems to steer itself or wander mid-corner
Sloppy, unpredictable response during highway lane changes
Rear alignment won't hold spec / uneven rear tire wear

How to Fix

Replace the worn DTSS bushings — the near-universal fix is a Delrin/steel 'rear steer eliminator' or 'toe eliminator' bushing set (Mazdatrix, Racing Beat, etc.) pressed into the rear uprights, which removes the passive rear steer entirely and restores predictable handling. Follow with a four-wheel alignment.

Typical repair cost:$350 - $1,000

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High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026

On the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 13B-REW, a widespread FD complaint is that the car becomes very hard to start after a hot soak (10–30 minutes after shutdown). Aged primary or secondary fuel injectors lose their ability to hold residual fuel pressure and drip into the rotor housings, soaking the spark plugs and flooding the engine. Because rotaries do not self-purge fuel the way a piston engine does (no intake/exhaust valves), a flooded rotary often will not start at all without a deflood procedure. Repeated flooding washes oil off the rotor seals and accelerates apex seal wear.

Common Symptoms

Extended cranking required for hot restart
Strong fuel smell from exhaust on cranking
Engine fires briefly then dies on hot restart
Black/wet spark plugs after a failed start attempt
Battery drained from repeated cranking attempts
Easier cold-start than warm-restart

How to Fix

Short-term deflood procedure: pull the EGI (fuel injection) fuse — typically the green 15A in the underhood fuse box — and crank for 5–10 seconds to clear fuel, then reinstall the fuse and start. Habit fix: rev to ~3,000 RPM for 10 seconds before shutdown to clear residual fuel. Permanent fix: replace the injectors (stock 550 cc primaries / 850 cc secondaries, or upgrade to RX-8 yellow secondaries or aftermarket high-impedance units). Have injectors flow-tested and cleaned if budget is tight, but old injector tips typically need replacement on a 20+ year old FD.

Typical repair cost:$300 - $1,500

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Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common Mazda RX-7 problems?

According to Au7o's analysis of 600+ owner reports, the 1986-2002 Mazda RX-7 has 13 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure, Overheating and Coolant System Weakness, Apex Seal Failure and Low Compression. Of these, 6 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.

Is the Mazda RX-7 reliable?

The 1986-2002 Mazda RX-7 has 13 known issues documented across 600+ owner reports. 6 issues are rated critical: Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure and Overheating and Coolant System Weakness and Apex Seal Failure and Low Compression and Sequential Twin-Turbo System Failure (Solenoids, Vacuum Lines, Actuators) and Turbo II Wastegate Flapper Undersizing — Boost Creep and Overboost and Oil Metering Pump Neglect and Brittle Injection Lines — Apex Seal Starvation. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.

How much does it cost to fix common Mazda RX-7 problems?

Repair costs for known Mazda RX-7 issues range from $50 to $6,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure, typically costs $500-$3,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.

What year Mazda RX-7 is the most reliable?

Reliability varies across model years of the Mazda RX-7. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1986-2002 Mazda RX-7 with 13 documented issues documented across 600+ owner reports.

What is the 1993-1995 Mazda RX-7 Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure?

FD RX-7 sequential twin turbo system uses complex vacuum-actuated valves that fail. Pre-control, charge control, and wastegate solenoids deteriorate. Turbo transition between primary and secondary becomes rough or fails. Repairs typically run $500-$3,000. Severity: high.

All 13 Known Issues

1993-1995 Mazda RX-7: Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

What Owners Are Using

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1993-2002 Mazda RX-7: Apex Seal Failure and Low Compression#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

What Owners Are Using

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1993-2002 Mazda RX-7: Sequential Twin-Turbo System Failure (Solenoids, Vacuum Lines, Actuators)#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1987-1991 Mazda RX-7: Turbo II Wastegate Flapper Undersizing — Boost Creep and Overboost#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1986-1991 Mazda RX-7: Oil Metering Pump Neglect and Brittle Injection Lines — Apex Seal Starvation#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1993-2002 Mazda RX-7: Sequential Turbo Vacuum System Deterioration#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

What Owners Are Using

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1993-2002 Mazda RX-7: Ignition Coil and Coil Harness Failure (Leading/Trailing Misfire)#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1986-1991 Mazda RX-7: 5th/6th Auxiliary Intake Port Sleeve and Actuator Seizure (NA 6-Port Induction)#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1990-1995 Mazda RX-7: Overheating and Coolant System Weakness#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

What Owners Are Using

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1986-1991 Mazda RX-7: Degraded Chassis and Engine Grounds — the 3,800 RPM Hesitation#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1986-1991 Mazda RX-7: Trailing Ignition Drop-Out (Twin Trailing Coils, Igniter, and Select Signal)#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1986-1991 Mazda RX-7: DTSS Rear Toe-Control Bushing Wear — Vague, Self-Steering Rear End#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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1993-2002 Mazda RX-7: Hot-Start Flooding from Leaking Fuel Injectors#

Common Symptoms

How to Fix

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Other Mazda Models

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common Mazda RX-7 problems?

Is the Mazda RX-7 reliable?

How much does it cost to fix common Mazda RX-7 problems?

What year Mazda RX-7 is the most reliable?

What is the 1993-1995 Mazda RX-7 Sequential Twin Turbo System Failure?

What is the 1990-1995 Mazda RX-7 Overheating and Coolant System Weakness?

What is the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 Apex Seal Failure and Low Compression?

What is the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 Sequential Twin-Turbo System Failure (Solenoids, Vacuum Lines, Actuators)?

What is the 1987-1991 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II Wastegate Flapper Undersizing — Boost Creep and Overboost?

What is the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7 Oil Metering Pump Neglect and Brittle Injection Lines — Apex Seal Starvation?

What is the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7 DTSS Rear Toe-Control Bushing Wear — Vague, Self-Steering Rear End?

What is the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 Sequential Turbo Vacuum System Deterioration?

What is the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 Hot-Start Flooding from Leaking Fuel Injectors?

What is the 1993-2002 Mazda RX-7 Ignition Coil and Coil Harness Failure (Leading/Trailing Misfire)?

What is the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7 Degraded Chassis and Engine Grounds — the 3,800 RPM Hesitation?

What is the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7 5th/6th Auxiliary Intake Port Sleeve and Actuator Seizure (NA 6-Port Induction)?

What is the 1986-1991 Mazda RX-7 Trailing Ignition Drop-Out (Twin Trailing Coils, Igniter, and Select Signal)?