According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2000 Nissan Altima has 2 documented known issues, with 1 rated critical. The most serious is Rusting Front Floorboards and Underbody Corrosion Near the Firewall/Subframe Area ($500-$3,000 repair). Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $80 to $3,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.
On the 2000-2006 Nissan Altima, older Altimas in rust-belt climates are known for severe floorboard and underbody corrosion, especially around the front floor pan, firewall seams, and nearby structural mounting areas. Owners report soft floors, water intrusion, failed inspections, and concerns about structural integrity around suspension or subframe attachment points. The issue is most common on early-2000s cars that saw repeated winter salt exposure.
Common Symptoms
soft floorboards
visible rust holes under car
water on front carpet
musty interior smell
failed safety inspection
subframe area corrosion
How to Fix
Inspection should include lifting carpets, probing floor pan seams, and checking the subframe and adjacent mounting points for perforation. Minor corrosion can sometimes be cut out and welded with rust treatment, but advanced structural rust often makes the vehicle uneconomical to repair. Keeping drains clear and addressing windshield or cowl leaks can slow recurrence after repair.
Owner tips & cautions
TipPull the front carpet and inspect from inside as well as underneath; several owners found much worse rust hidden by sound deadening and wet carpet.
TipIf buying an early-2000s Altima in a salt state, inspect the floor pan and subframe before spending money on engine or transmission work.
On the 1998-2001 Nissan Altima 2.4L KA24DE I4, on the second-generation Altima the vacuum cut valve bypass solenoid lives just inside the rear wheel well, beside the fuel tank and the spare tire well, bolted to a small steel bracket under the body. It is one of the most rust-exposed electrical components on the car, and in the salt belt the bracket assembly typically corrodes badly — owners in the Northeast describe having to soak the fasteners for a day before the bolts will come out without snapping. The solenoid is normally closed and opens only when the ECM grounds it to admit intake manifold vacuum to the fuel tank for the on-board EVAP leak diagnostic. P1490 is the circuit-side complaint: the ECM drove the valve and the electrical feedback was wrong, which on this car is nearly always either a dead solenoid coil or a corroded connector, not a leak. The companion code P1491 is set when the valve is electrically fine but the tank does not respond to the test, so which of the two codes you have narrows the search considerably before you touch anything. Drivers notice essentially nothing beyond the check engine light — no stumble, no hard start, no smell of fuel — and the car will drive indefinitely with the code present. The consequence is an emissions failure and a MIL that hides any more serious code that might follow, and because the EVAP monitor only runs under specific fuel-level and temperature conditions, clearing the code buys a few days of a dark dash before it returns.
Solenoid does not click when 12V is applied at the terminals
Heavily rusted bracket and hardware at the rear of the car
Emissions inspection failure
Code reappears within days of being cleared
How to Fix
The diagnostic that settles this takes ten minutes. Jack the rear of the car, find the solenoid just inside the wheel well next to the tank, and unplug it. Apply battery voltage directly across the two terminals: a good valve clicks audibly and you can feel or hear the air passage open, and it should close again the instant power is removed. If there is no click, the solenoid is dead and needs replacing. If it clicks properly, put the meter on the harness instead — check for continuity from the solenoid connector back to the ECM, check the ground, and inspect the connector for the green corrosion and water intrusion that is endemic at this location. Cleaning the pins and sealing the connector with dielectric grease resolves a meaningful share of these without any parts at all. When the valve itself is bad, the part is the Nissan 14933-54U0A cut valve solenoid shared across Altima, Maxima and Pathfinder of this era; owners have sourced good used units for well under $50, and aftermarket replacements are widely available, while the genuine Nissan part runs considerably more. Before you start, soak the bracket bolts with penetrating oil the day before — rusted-in hardware, not the valve, is what turns this into a long job. Replace the short rubber hoses at the valve while you are there, since they crack at this age. Clear the code afterward and drive the car through a proper cold-start-plus-cruise cycle with a partly filled tank so the EVAP monitor can run and set to ready.
ON CERTAIN VEHICLES, THE REAR SUBFRAME MAY HAVE BEEN MANUFACTURED INCORRECTLY, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRACK IN A BRACKET WHICH HOLDS PART OF THE REAR SUSPENSION.
Campaign #06V04600013/02/2006
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5L ENGINES MAY EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION AS A RESULT OF IMPROPER PERFORMANCE OF THE PISTON RINGS.
Campaign #06V22300021/06/2006
EXTERIOR LIGHTING:HEADLIGHTS
CERTAIN TYC HALOGEN TYPE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLIES P/N 20-6644-00 SOLD AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT FOR 2005-2006 NISSAN ALTIMA PASSENGER VEHICLES. THE PHOTOMETRIC WERE MISALIGNED WHICH DOES NOT COMPLY WITH FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT.
Campaign #07E08700025/10/2007
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.5L ENGINE, THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CAN OVERHEAT CAUSING A BRIEF INTERRUPTION IN THE SIGNAL OUTPUT FROM THE SENSOR.
Campaign #07V52700014/11/2007
EXTERIOR LIGHTING:HEADLIGHTS
CERTAIN ANZO COMBINATION HEADLAMP ASSEMBLIES SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES. SOME COMBINATION LAMPS ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS WHICH FAIL TO CONFORM TO FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT."
According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2000 Nissan Altima has 2 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Rusting Front Floorboards and Underbody Corrosion Near the Firewall/Subframe Area, Rear-Mounted Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Solenoid Rusts Off Its Bracket. Of these, 1 is rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Nissan Altima reliable?
The 2000 Nissan Altima has 2 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 1 issue is rated critical: Rusting Front Floorboards and Underbody Corrosion Near the Firewall/Subframe Area. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Nissan Altima problems?
Repair costs for known Nissan Altima issues range from $80 to $3,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Rusting Front Floorboards and Underbody Corrosion Near the Firewall/Subframe Area, typically costs $500-$3,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What is the 2000-2006 Nissan Altima Rusting Front Floorboards and Underbody Corrosion Near the Firewall/Subframe Area?
Older Altimas in rust-belt climates are known for severe floorboard and underbody corrosion, especially around the front floor pan, firewall seams, and nearby structural mounting areas. Owners report soft floors, water intrusion, failed inspections, and concerns about structural… Repairs typically run $500-$3,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2001 Nissan Altima Rear-Mounted Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Solenoid Rusts Off Its Bracket?
On the second-generation Altima the vacuum cut valve bypass solenoid lives just inside the rear wheel well, beside the fuel tank and the spare tire well, bolted to a small steel bracket under the body. It is one of the most rust-exposed electrical components on the car, and in th… Repairs typically run $80-$300. Severity: low.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
