According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2016 Tesla Model S has 14 documented known issues, with 6 rated critical. The most serious are Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure ($0-$6,500 repair), Model S / X MCU1 eMMC Flash Memory Failure ($0-$2,500 repair), Drive Unit / Battery Coolant Leak (LDU Rotor Seal & Cooling Lines) ($300-$4,500 repair), 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade ($220-$1,800 repair), High-Voltage Battery Pack Failure - BMS_u029 Fault ($2,000-$22,000 repair) and Front Suspension Fore Link (Lower Control Link) Failure ($200-$900 repair). Across all issues, repair costs range from $20 to $22,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.
On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, the MCU1 (Tegra 3-based infotainment) used in 2012-2018 Model S and 2016-2018 Model X has a chronic eMMC flash memory wear-out issue — the 8GB eMMC accumulates write cycles from system logging until it fails, taking the rearview camera, defrost/defog controls, turn-signal lighting, and Autopilot configuration offline. NHTSA investigation led to recall 21V-035 (NHTSA Campaign 21V035000) covering 134,951 vehicles. Recall began March 29, 2021. Tesla's remedy is VCM daughterboard replacement with enhanced eMMC controller, free of charge.
Tesla covered the fix under recall 21V-035 — confirm via VIN at Tesla recall lookup. Out-of-recall: 3rd-party eMMC replacement (Gruber Motor, etc.) $400-$700; MCU2 retrofit from Tesla $2,000-$2,500 incl. labor.
High Confidence0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date
On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the low-voltage 12V lead-acid battery on early-to-mid Model S (concentrated in 2015-2018 build years) fails prematurely due to a poor original vendor cell plus constant vampire-load strain from always-on electronics. Roughly a third of Tesla NHTSA low-voltage complaints trace here. A weak 12V triggers a cascade of seemingly unrelated warnings, screen glitches, lock/unlock weirdness and 'car won't wake up.' In a subset of cars the real culprit is a failing DC-DC converter that stops properly charging the 12V, which owners misdiagnose as just a dead battery. A dead 12V can leave the car completely immobilized/locked.
Common Symptoms
Multiple unrelated alerts appear at once
'Car needs service - power reduced' warning
12V battery service message
Vehicle will not wake / no response to key
Screen and lock/unlock glitches
How to Fix
Replace the 12V battery (OEM lead-acid ~$220-380 installed); many owners upgrade to a lithium or AGM unit for 3-4x service life. If warnings persist or return quickly after a fresh battery, diagnose the DC-DC converter output (the PCS/charger assembly) rather than replacing the battery again. Tesla covers the 12V under the 4yr/50k basic warranty.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
12V auxiliary battery (OEM lead-acid) - the primary replacement part
PRE-FACELIFT 2012-early2016 = OEM 1083774-00-A (aka 1024463-00-A / 6007898); pre-4/2016 RWD cars may need an adapter post that 2016+ RWD and 2014+ Dual Motor cars do not.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, the BMS_u029 alert ('maximum battery charge level reduced' / unable to charge to full) is a widely-reported code that has effectively killed a number of early Model S high-voltage packs. The Battery Management System detects a condition (module isolation drift, contactor concern, thermal imbalance, moisture intrusion or connector/harness corrosion) that makes it unsafe to charge the pack to normal capacity, so it caps charge and may progress to a no-charge/limp state. Related codes BMS_u018 and BMS_a029 appear in the same family. While a minority of cases are recoverable calibration/thermal faults, the fault frequently ends in an expensive pack or module repair on 85 kWh-era cars.
Common Symptoms
'Maximum battery charge level reduced' message
Sudden loss of range / charge cap
Car refuses to charge past a set percentage
Reduced power / vehicle may not restart
Alert appears after sitting unused for days
How to Fix
Get a professional HV diagnostic (SMT/Scan My Tesla data plus Tesla toolbox) to determine whether it is a recoverable isolation/thermal/contactor issue or genuine cell/module degradation. Some cars are fixed with a BMS reset, contactor service, or single-module replacement by an independent EV specialist; others need a remanufactured pack. Out-of-warranty full pack replacement is the worst case and the reason many owners pursue module-level rebuilds.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Model S/X HV battery pack black contactors — the part replaced when BMS_u029/BMS_u018 traces to a contactor/isolation concern rather than dead cells. Tesla uses GIGAVAC GV200-series contactors internally; OEM assembly PN 1024745-00-D (al…
Single 85 kWh battery module (S3, 24V nominal, 5.3 kWh) — for single-module rebuild
OEM1009312-00-EOwners use1014114-00-D (listed by some sellers as module), 057 Technology 85-type reman module, GreenTec Auto Tesla 24V 233Ah 5.3kWh module$800–$1800
Individual S3 module (74p6s, 444x Panasonic NCR18650 cells, ~22.8V nominal/25.2V max, 5.3kWh) used in the 16-module Model S 85kWh pack. This is the part an independent EV specialist swaps when BMS_u029 is caused by one weak/imbalanced mo…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S, the charge port door fails to open on command, or the internal latch fails to lock/release the charge cable. The actuator motor stops engaging the latch mechanism, or the electrical command isn't fulfilled, so the door won't 'push-to-open,' won't close, or the connector locks/unlocks erratically. Cold weather makes the door stick or freeze shut. Because charging is the car's lifeblood, a failed charge-port latch can strand an owner unable to plug in or unable to remove a stuck cable.
Common Symptoms
Charge port door will not open
Door won't close / stays ajar
Charge cable locked in or won't latch
'Charge port latch not engaged' message
Port sticks or freezes in cold weather
How to Fix
Short term, use the manual release lever behind the left rear trunk trim to open the door/release the cable, and warm a frozen port. For persistent failures the charge port actuator/latch or the whole charge port assembly is replaced - a ~30-minute mobile-service job. Keep firmware current, as some latch behaviors are software-mediated.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Charge Port Door Actuator (motorized), Model S/X 2016-2020
OEM1038548-00-IOwners use1038548-00-H (earlier rev, same fitment), WDGBUIT Charging Port Door Assembly 1038548-00-I (Amazon), ReelDeal EV motorized charge port door 1038548-00-I$35–$160
Confirmed OEM PN 1038548-00-I, fits Model S 2016-2020 (and X).
For pre-facelift Model S (2012-2015/16) with the Gen1 non-motorized charge-port door — covers connector-latch / port failures on early cars. OEM PN 1005612-00-K (with cable/controller); -G/-H are assembly variants for RWD and Dual Motor …
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, the 17-inch center touchscreen develops a yellow band around its border as the display's optical bonding adhesive yellows when heat, humidity and oxygen reach it over time - very common on 2012-2017 cars, especially in warm climates. A related and more serious defect is LCD bubbling/gel leaking from the bottom of the screen as the adhesive fails. Both are cosmetic-to-functional display degradation, not an MCU logic-board failure (distinct from the eMMC issue). Tesla acknowledged the yellowing and built a UV-light remediation tool.
Common Symptoms
Yellow band framing the edges of the touchscreen
Bubbles or blotches at the bottom of the display
Gel-like fluid leaking inside the screen
Discoloration worsens in hot weather
How to Fix
Tesla's UV-light fixture reverses the yellow border in ~2-3 hours at a service center (cannot be done by mobile service and can be a low/no-cost goodwill fix). The UV treatment is considered temporary and yellowing can return. For gel-bubbling/leaking screens the display is replaced (~$550+); owners often pair this with an MCU1-to-MCU2 upgrade.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
17-inch Center Touchscreen (CID / MCU1) Display Assembly
OEM PN family 1045006-00 with a rising letter suffix (-A/-B/-C/-D/-H = revisions) fits classic Model S 2012-2018 (and Model X 2015) MCU1 cars — the era of THIS issue
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2013-2017 Tesla Model S, the front lower 'fore link' (forward lower control link) can fracture or separate, most often at low speed while turning into a driveway or parking lot. NHTSA's ODI investigation (PE20-010) covering 2015-2017 Model S/X (74,918 vehicles) identified 426 fore-link failures; the agency closed the probe without a mandated recall but noted Tesla's 2017 service bulletin (limited to Jan-May 2016 builds) left ~75% of the failures uncovered and recommended Tesla widen coverage. A class action alleges a broader suspension defect. Failure at speed could cause loss of control.
Common Symptoms
Clunk or knock from front suspension at low speed
Popping when turning into/out of a driveway
Wheel visibly out of alignment after an event
Uneven front tire wear
Loud bang followed by handling change
How to Fix
Inspect and replace the failed fore link (and inspect the lateral/aft link); many owners upgrade to reinforced aftermarket links with spherical or polyurethane bushings for durability. Have both sides inspected since failures cluster. Check whether the VIN is covered by Tesla's fore-link service bulletin for a goodwill replacement.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Front lower fore link (forward lower control arm), Left/Driver — RWD (single-motor 2012-2016 Model S)
OEM6007998-00-COwners use6007998-00-B, A-Premium MS95807 (front control arm kit), Rockplanet Model S front control arm kit$80–$220
Front lower fore link (forward lower control arm), Right/Passenger — RWD (single-motor 2012-2016 Model S)
OEM6006664-00-COwners use6006664-00-B, A-Premium MS95807 (front control arm kit), Rockplanet Model S front control arm kit$80–$220
RH fore link for RWD/single-motor cars. Verified 6006664-00-C / -00-B (RH) on genuine-Tesla eBay listings (598562990) and evpartsonline for 2012-2016 RWD Model S.
RH fore link for AWD/dual-motor cars. Verified 1041575-00-D on genuine-Tesla eBay (275416493009, with warranty) and evannex for Model S/X AWD 2012-2021.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S all, model S and X with air suspension develop leveling-pump and air-strut failures — typically presenting as a nose-droop overnight (car settles unevenly) or "Air Suspension Needs Service" warning. Pump diaphragm wear is the most common single cause; corner air struts also leak. Common at 80,000-160,000 km.
Air pump replacement (refurbished) $300-$600 part + $200-$400 install. Single air strut $400-$800 part + install. Many owners switch to 3rd-party Arnott replacements. Severe cases need full system overhaul ($2,000-$4,000).
High Confidence0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date
On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, early Model S (and X) drive units develop a "milling" noise — a metallic whine that gradually grows louder, ultimately requiring drive-unit replacement. Tesla has replaced many DUs under warranty (often multiple times per car). Issue stems from gear-mesh quality and bearing tolerances; quieter post-2014 but still present. Front DU on dual-motor cars typically the first to fail.
Tesla warranty replacement is the standard fix when covered (8 yr / unlimited miles on drive unit historically). Out-of-warranty refurb DU from Tesla $2,500-$4,500; new $4,500-$6,500 incl. install. Have a Tesla service center document any whine while still under drivetrain warranty.
High Confidence0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date
On the 2012-2019 Tesla Model S, early Model S large drive units (LDU) have a known internal coolant leak where the rotor shaft seal fails and coolant migrates into the drive unit, and separately the battery/drive-unit cooling lines and fittings crack or seep with age. Leaks rarely show as a puddle; instead owners see intermittent low-coolant messages that clear overnight, cooling fans that keep running after charging, brief regen/power reductions on warm days, or the cabin heater blowing cold. Left unaddressed, coolant loss can overheat the drive unit or battery.
Common Symptoms
Recurring 'coolant level low' messages
Cooling fans run after charging/parking
Brief regen or power reduction when warm
Heater blows cold air
Sweet coolant smell or slow coolant loss
How to Fix
Pressure-test the cooling system to locate the source. For a leaking LDU rotor seal the drive unit is resealed or replaced (reman units are common); for cracked coolant lines/fittings or a failed thermal valve/heat exchanger those components are replaced and the system is refilled and bled with the specified Tesla coolant. Address low-coolant warnings promptly to avoid thermal derate or pack damage.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Large Drive Unit (LDU) rotor shaft seal
OEM100266-00AOwners useQC Charge LDU rebuild kit, SKF LDU motor rebuild seal kit (Smoothbev), EV West 100266-00A$18–$45
100266-00A is the canonical rotor-side motor-shaft seal used by LDU rebuilders (EVWEST, QC Charge, SKF kits) and fits 2012-2019 Model S/X LDU.
OEM1065932-00-AOwners use1108557-00-A (alt Tesla output seal), 17292-0Z010 (Toyota-format cross, EV West/MLR Eng), ReelDeal EV drive-unit output shaft seal$12–$35
Output-shaft/axle seals are replaced as part of any drive-unit reseal (cheap consumable, done while the unit is open). 1065932-00-A / 1108557-00-A are the Tesla output-shaft seal PNs; 17292-0Z010 is the widely-used aftermarket cross.
Covers the FIX's 'failed heat exchanger' path. 1007476-00-E is the Model S chiller/heat-exchanger assembly (complete with the R134a TXV) for the 2012-2019 thermal system.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the Model S's flush, auto-presenting exterior door handles are the single most-complained-about item on the car (the #1 issue in Consumer Reports' survey of ~1,300 owners). The small plastic 'paddle gear' inside the handle that transfers the pull to the latch cracks under material fatigue, and internal micro-switch wires break, so the handle stops presenting or fails to retract. The heavily-used driver's door often fails first, sometimes as early as ~20,000 miles, with the other three doors failing later. Owners can get locked out or unable to enter. Tesla revised the mechanism through Gen 1 -> Gen 2.1 -> Gen 3, but the earlier design remains widespread on used cars.
Common Symptoms
Door handle does not present/extend when approached
Handle stays out and will not retract
Intermittent operation, worse in cold
Clicking or no response when pressing handle
Locked out of the vehicle
How to Fix
Replace the failed handle assembly with a later-generation unit, or install a paddle-gear/micro-switch rebuild kit (billet or upgraded plastic gear) which addresses the root-cause wear part at far lower cost than a full assembly. Retrofitting the Gen 3.0 handle per the Tesla service bulletin is the most durable fix. If only the microswitch/wire has broken the handle can often be repaired without a new assembly.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Gen 3.0 exterior door handle assembly (retrofit unit, front LH) — full assembly replacement per Tesla TSB TN-17-11-001
OEM1100299-S0-AOwners use1100300-S0-A (front RH Gen 3.0 mate), 1100299-00-A (alt catalog format), Gen 1 originals being replaced: 1007373-00-A-G (LF), 1007372$200–$1000
The most durable documented fix: retrofit the later Gen 3.0 handle per service bulletin TN-17-11-001 (Replacing Model S Exterior Door Handles). 1100299-S0-A is the front LH exterior release assembly; 1100300-S0-A is front RH.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the window regulator on Model S doors fails because of a weak plastic ferrule in the regulator assembly that cracks, letting the glass come off its track or float free in the door. Owners report grinding/crunching or cracking noises raising and lowering the glass, glass that sticks out past the chrome trim (which also blocks the frameless-door auto-drop, risking a closed door catching the glass), or a window that drops into the door and won't come up. It affects front and rear doors across most model years.
Common Symptoms
Grinding/cracking noise when moving the window
Glass off-track or sticking past the trim
Window falls into the door and won't raise
Window moves slowly or stops mid-travel
Auto-drop on frameless door not working
How to Fix
Replace the window regulator assembly (OEM), or install an upgraded billet-aluminum ferrule to cure the root-cause weak point at low cost. Check that the regulator/motor mounting bolts are torqued, since loose bolts accompany some failures. Re-calibrate the window after service.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Front Left (driver) door window regulator & motor assembly
OEM6006551-00-GOwners useDorman 740-602, A-Premium Front Left (Tesla Model S 2012-2020)$90–$360
OEM 6006551-00 has running-change suffixes across the 2012-2020 span (-E early, -G mid, -L later) — verify the exact suffix by VIN.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S, model S cars fitted with the optional panoramic (opening) glass roof are prone to water leaking into the cabin during heavy rain. Root causes include an improperly seated rear rubber seal, the early 2014-design seal channel that has an opening at the rear (so when parked nose-down on a hill the drain channel fills and overflows back inside), and pano-roof spacers pushing out. A manufacturing fault where the roof damaged its own seals on open/close drove a Tesla recall/seal service. Water intrusion can wet headliner, pillars and floor and, in worst cases, reach electronics. Tesla discontinued the panoramic option in 2018 in favor of the fixed glass roof.
Common Symptoms
Water dripping from headliner or A/B pillars in rain
Damp carpet or footwells after storms
Wind noise from roof at speed
Musty smell / fogging interior
Water pooling when parked on an incline
How to Fix
Have a Tesla service center re-adjust the roof closure pressure/settings and reseat or replace the rubber seal; clean and lubricate the roof mechanism per the service procedure. Ensure drain channels are clear. Cars with recurring leaks may need the updated seal or spacer correction. The fixed glass roof (2018+) eliminates the problem.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Panoramic Roof Main/Rear Glass Seal (1st gen)
OEM1037072-00-B$55–$130
The primary rubber weatherstrip the pano roof glass slides/seals against at the rear; the improperly-seated/failed rear seal is the documented root cause of the leak. 2015-era updated design PN for early-to-mid 1st-gen Model S pano roofs…
Panoramic Roof Noise-Reduction / Channel Grease (Klubersynth RA 44-702)
OEM1031102-00-AOwners useKluber Klubersynth RA 44-702$25–$60
Tesla-specified lubricant for the 4 roof channels per the official 'Panoramic Roof - Clean and Lubricate' procedure; other greases permanently damage the seals. ~10ml syringe (2 applications).
Consumable specified in Tesla's 1st-gen Main Seal R&R procedure: apply 3M Primer 94 to the body before re-bonding the seal. No Tesla OEM PN (generic 3M product); 3M 05907 is the common catalog number.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S, the front trunk ('frunk') fails to open on command because the electric hood latch actuator fails or the release cables corrode/seize or the latch goes misaligned. Owners hear the actuator working but the hood won't pop, or the dash reports 'front trunk / hood latch position unknown.' Conversely a frunk that doesn't latch fully is a safety concern - Tesla has run recalls inspecting the frunk secondary/hood latch on some cars. Loss of frunk access blocks the emergency 12V jump/manual-release points on some models.
Common Symptoms
Frunk won't open on command
'Front trunk/hood latch position unknown' alert
Actuator noise but hood stays shut
Frunk won't stay latched / pops at speed
Grinding or no movement from the latch
How to Fix
Free seized cables by applying lithium grease to the actuator cable and cycling it by hand; realign or reposition the secondary latch per the service procedure. Replace a failed latch actuator if the mechanism no longer engages. For 'won't latch' cases confirm whether the VIN falls under a frunk/secondary-latch recall for a free inspection and re-alignment.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
The secondary/safety hood latch — the component inspected/realigned under Tesla's frunk secondary-latch campaigns for 'won't fully latch' safety cases. Genuine Tesla PN 6007572-00-E, verified via eBay OEM listings for 12-15/2012-2016 Mod…
The release cable for the secondary/safety hood latch — the corroding/seizing cable in the PROBLEM text. Genuine Tesla PN 1034876-00-C (CABLE, HOOD LATCH SECONDARY), verified via Ingenext; fitment listed Feb-2012 to Mar-2016 Model S.
White lithium grease (cable lubrication consumable)
Owners useCRC 05037, Permatex 80345, 3-IN-ONE white lithium$5–$12
Consumable named directly in the FIX ('apply lithium grease to the actuator cable and cycle by hand'). No Tesla OEM PN — any white lithium grease works; common aftermarket products listed as cross-refs.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2013-2021 Tesla Model S, the rear integrated electronic parking brake (EPB) calipers seize or the caliper actuator motor fails, throwing 'EPB_w053 - Parking brake did not release' or 'EPB_w052 - Parking brake functions degraded.' The caliper shaft can seize (often from moisture/corrosion in cars driven little or in salt climates) or the small electric motor that drives the park-brake screw fails, leaving the brake stuck applied or unable to hold. Because the mechanism is integrated into the rear caliper, Tesla typically replaces the entire caliper - and frequently both rear sides - which drives significant cost.
Common Symptoms
'Parking brake did not release' warning
'Parking brake functions degraded' warning
Grinding or dragging from a rear wheel
Car will not move / rear wheel locked
Parking brake will not hold on an incline
How to Fix
Use the EPB release tool/connector to fully release a stuck caliper; if the shaft is seized or the motor is damaged, the park-brake caliper (or the caliper's park-brake motor) is replaced and the system re-calibrated. Clean-and-lubricate service can prevent recurrence. Independent shops sometimes replace just the actuator motor to avoid a full dual-caliper job.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Rear parking-brake caliper actuator motor (integrated EPB drive motor) — the DIY-replaceable motor that fails/seizes, av
Brake hose copper/crush sealing washers (required when the caliper is unbolted from the brake line during caliper replac
OEM1006309-00-A$2–$10
Tesla service procedure specifies 2x new washers (1006309-00-A) when reconnecting the brake hose to the rear caliper. Consumable required only when the full caliper — not just the motor — is replaced.
Silaramic caliper lubricant (clean-and-lube service to prevent recurrence / on caliper pad slides at reassembly)
OEM1063021-00-AOwners usePermatex Silaramic Brake System Grease$8–$18
Tesla proc calls for Silaramic lubricant (1063021-00-A) on the caliper pad slides during caliper/motor service; the clean-and-lube step is what prevents the moisture/corrosion seizure from recurring. Permatex Silaramic is the equivalent …
Electronic Parking Brake release tool/connector (to fully release a stuck-applied EPB caliper before diagnosis/replaceme
OEM1134520-00-A$30–$150
Tesla EPB release tool (1134520-00-A) drives the park-brake motor to fully retract a caliper stuck in the applied position so the wheel/caliper can be serviced. Referenced in Tesla 'Park Brake Caliper - Release' procedure.
Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2016-2022 Model S and Model X, 2017-2022 Model 3, and 2020-2022 Model Y vehicles. The "rolling stop" functionality available as part of the Full Self-Driving (Beta) software may allow the vehicle to travel through an all-way stop intersection without first coming to a stop.
Campaign #22V03700027/01/2022
LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:HOOD:LATCH
Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2014-2021 Model S vehicles. The front trunk latch assembly may be misaligned, preventing the secondary hood latch from engaging. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 113, "Hood Latch System."
Campaign #21V00B00021/12/2021
FORWARD COLLISION AVOIDANCE: SENSING SYSTEM: CAMERA
Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2017-2021 Model S, Model 3, Model X, and 2020-2021 Model Y vehicles operating software version 2021.36.5.2. A communication error may cause false forward-collision warning (FCW) or unexpected activation of the automatic emergency brake (AEB) system.
Campaign #21V84600029/10/2021
BACK OVER PREVENTION:SOFTWARE
Stay ahead of Tesla Model S problems
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According to Au7o's research across NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports, the 2016-2016 Tesla Model S has 14 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure, Model S / X MCU1 eMMC Flash Memory Failure, Drive Unit / Battery Coolant Leak (LDU Rotor Seal & Cooling Lines). Of these, 6 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Tesla Model S reliable?
The 2016-2016 Tesla Model S has 14 known issues compiled from NHTSA recalls, manufacturer TSBs, and owner forum reports. 6 issues are rated critical: Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure and Model S / X MCU1 eMMC Flash Memory Failure and Drive Unit / Battery Coolant Leak (LDU Rotor Seal & Cooling Lines) and 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade and High-Voltage Battery Pack Failure - BMS_u029 Fault and Front Suspension Fore Link (Lower Control Link) Failure. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Tesla Model S problems?
Repair costs for known Tesla Model S issues range from $0 to $22,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure, typically costs $0-$6,500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Model S / X Drive Unit "Milling" Noise / Failure?
Early Model S (and X) drive units develop a "milling" noise — a metallic whine that gradually grows louder, ultimately requiring drive-unit replacement. Tesla has replaced many DUs under warranty (often multiple times per car). Issue stems from gear-mesh quality and bearing toler… Repairs typically run $0-$6,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S Model S / X MCU1 eMMC Flash Memory Failure?
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling certain 2017, 2021-2023 Model 3, 2020-2023 Model Y, 2021-2023 Model S, and Model X vehicles operating software version 2026.8.6. The rearview camera image may be delayed when the vehicle is placed in reverse. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 111, "Rear Visibility."
Tesla, Inc. (Tesla) is recalling 2012-2023 Model S, 2016-2023 Model X, 2017-2023 Model 3, and 2020-2023 Model Y vehicles equipped with all versions of Autosteer leading up to the version(s) that contains the recall remedy. In certain circumstances when Autosteer is engaged, the prominence and scope of the feature's controls may not be sufficient to prevent driver misuse of the SAE Level 2 advanced driver-assistance feature.
Enter your VIN at NHTSA.gov to check recalls specific to your vehicle.
The MCU1 (Tegra 3-based infotainment) used in 2012-2018 Model S and 2016-2018 Model X has a chronic eMMC flash memory wear-out issue — the 8GB eMMC accumulates write cycles from system logging until it fails, taking the rearview camera, defrost/defog controls, turn-signal lightin… Repairs typically run $0-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2019 Tesla Model S Drive Unit / Battery Coolant Leak (LDU Rotor Seal & Cooling Lines)?
Early Model S large drive units (LDU) have a known internal coolant leak where the rotor shaft seal fails and coolant migrates into the drive unit, and separately the battery/drive-unit cooling lines and fittings crack or seep with age. Leaks rarely show as a puddle; instead owne… Repairs typically run $300-$4,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S 12V Auxiliary Battery / DC-DC Converter Failure Cascade?
The low-voltage 12V lead-acid battery on early-to-mid Model S (concentrated in 2015-2018 build years) fails prematurely due to a poor original vendor cell plus constant vampire-load strain from always-on electronics. Roughly a third of Tesla NHTSA low-voltage complaints trace her… Repairs typically run $220-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S High-Voltage Battery Pack Failure - BMS_u029 Fault?
The BMS_u029 alert ('maximum battery charge level reduced' / unable to charge to full) is a widely-reported code that has effectively killed a number of early Model S high-voltage packs. The Battery Management System detects a condition (module isolation drift, contactor concern,… Repairs typically run $2,000-$22,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2013-2017 Tesla Model S Front Suspension Fore Link (Lower Control Link) Failure?
The front lower 'fore link' (forward lower control link) can fracture or separate, most often at low speed while turning into a driveway or parking lot. NHTSA's ODI investigation (PE20-010) covering 2015-2017 Model S/X (74,918 vehicles) identified 426 fore-link failures; the agen… Repairs typically run $200-$900. Severity: high.
What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Model S / X Air Suspension Leveling / Nose-Droop?
Model S and X with air suspension develop leveling-pump and air-strut failures — typically presenting as a nose-droop overnight (car settles unevenly) or "Air Suspension Needs Service" warning. Pump diaphragm wear is the most common single cause; corner air struts also leak. Comm… Repairs typically run $500-$4,000. Severity: medium.
What is the 2012-2021 Tesla Model S Charge Port Door / Latch Actuator Failure?
The charge port door fails to open on command, or the internal latch fails to lock/release the charge cable. The actuator motor stops engaging the latch mechanism, or the electrical command isn't fulfilled, so the door won't 'push-to-open,' won't close, or the connector locks/unl… Repairs typically run $150-$700. Severity: medium.
What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Retractable Door Handle Failure (Paddle Gear / Actuator Wear)?
The Model S's flush, auto-presenting exterior door handles are the single most-complained-about item on the car (the #1 issue in Consumer Reports' survey of ~1,300 owners). The small plastic 'paddle gear' inside the handle that transfers the pull to the latch cracks under materia… Repairs typically run $120-$600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S Panoramic Sunroof Water Leak?
Model S cars fitted with the optional panoramic (opening) glass roof are prone to water leaking into the cabin during heavy rain. Root causes include an improperly seated rear rubber seal, the early 2014-design seal channel that has an opening at the rear (so when parked nose-dow… Repairs typically run $0-$900. Severity: medium.
What is the 2013-2021 Tesla Model S Electronic Parking Brake Caliper Seizure (EPB Motor Failure)?
The rear integrated electronic parking brake (EPB) calipers seize or the caliper actuator motor fails, throwing 'EPB_w053 - Parking brake did not release' or 'EPB_w052 - Parking brake functions degraded.' The caliper shaft can seize (often from moisture/corrosion in cars driven l… Repairs typically run $350-$1,600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2012-2018 Tesla Model S Center Touchscreen Yellow Border & LCD Delamination/Bubbling?
The 17-inch center touchscreen develops a yellow band around its border as the display's optical bonding adhesive yellows when heat, humidity and oxygen reach it over time - very common on 2012-2017 cars, especially in warm climates. A related and more serious defect is LCD bubbl… Repairs typically run $0-$1,500. Severity: low.
What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Power Window Regulator Failure (Plastic Ferrule Design Flaw)?
The window regulator on Model S doors fails because of a weak plastic ferrule in the regulator assembly that cracks, letting the glass come off its track or float free in the door. Owners report grinding/crunching or cracking noises raising and lowering the glass, glass that stic… Repairs typically run $20-$450. Severity: low.
What is the 2012-2020 Tesla Model S Frunk (Front Trunk) Hood Latch Actuator / Cable Failure?
The front trunk ('frunk') fails to open on command because the electric hood latch actuator fails or the release cables corrode/seize or the latch goes misaligned. Owners hear the actuator working but the hood won't pop, or the dash reports 'front trunk / hood latch position unkn… Repairs typically run $0-$400. Severity: low.
