According to Au7o's analysis of 1,660+ owner reports, the 1990-2026 Acura Integra has 19 documented known issues, with 6 rated critical. The most serious are Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves ($350-$3,000 repair), Internal distributor failure causing stalling, no-start, and misfires ($250-$600 repair), Driver's Seat Cushion Frame Not Properly Tightened — Recall 24V859 (2024 Integra / Integra Type S), Steering Gearbox Recall 24V744 — Excessive Internal Friction Makes the Integra Hard to Steer, Ignition switch contact pitting causes engine to die when key released ($50-$200 repair) and Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move ($0-$600 repair). The most commonly reported issue is Infotainment System Software Bugs and Wireless CarPlay Drops with 1,100 owner reports. Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $25 to $4,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.
Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) is recalling certain 2023-2025 Acura Integra, Civic Type R, CR-V Hybrid, CR-V, HR-V, 2022-2025 Civic, Civic Hatchback, 2024-2025 Acura Integra Type S, 2025 CR-V Fuel Cell EV, Civic Hybrid, and Civic Hatchback Hybrid vehicles. The steering gearbox assembly may have been manufactured incorrectly, which can cause excessive internal friction and lead to difficulty steering the vehicle.
Campaign #24V74400003/10/2024
SEATS:CRITICAL FASTENERS
Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) is recalling certain 2023-2024 Honda Accord, Accord Hybrid, Civic Sedan, Civic Hatchback, Pilot, and 2024 HR-V, Acura Integra and Acura Integra Type S vehicles. The driver's seat cushion frame may not have been tightened properly, which can result in an unsecured seat. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 207, "Seating Systems."
Campaign #24V85900014/11/2024
SEATS:CRITICAL FASTENERS
Honda (American Honda Motor Co.) is recalling certain 2023 Honda Accord, Accord Hybrid, and 2024 HR-V, Pilot, and Acura Integra vehicles. The driver's seat cushion frame may not have been tightened properly, which can result in a loose seat. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 207, "Seating Systems."
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According to Au7o's analysis of 1,660+ owner reports, the 1990-2026 Acura Integra has 19 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves, Internal distributor failure causing stalling, no-start, and misfires, Driver's Seat Cushion Frame Not Properly Tightened — Recall 24V859 (2024 Integra / Integra Type S). Of these, 6 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Acura Integra reliable?
The 1990-2026 Acura Integra has 19 known issues documented across 1,660+ owner reports. 6 issues are rated critical: Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves and Internal distributor failure causing stalling, no-start, and misfires and Driver's Seat Cushion Frame Not Properly Tightened — Recall 24V859 (2024 Integra / Integra Type S) and Steering Gearbox Recall 24V744 — Excessive Internal Friction Makes the Integra Hard to Steer and Ignition switch contact pitting causes engine to die when key released and Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Acura Integra problems?
Repair costs for known Acura Integra issues range from $0 to $4,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves, typically costs $350-$3,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What year Acura Integra is the most reliable?
Reliability varies across model years of the Acura Integra. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1990-2026 Acura Integra with 19 documented issues documented across 1,660+ owner reports.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
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When Issues Typically Appear
Ignition switch contact pitting causes engine to die when key released
80K-200K
Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking
80K-180K
PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start
80K-200K
VTEC oil pressure switch failure (Code 22 / P1259) on GS-R and Type R
80K-200K
Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves
90K-110K
Internal distributor failure causing stalling, no-start, and misfires
90K-180K
4-speed automatic: shift solenoid failure causes D4 light flash, missed shifts, and limp mode
90K-180K
Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start
100K-250K
Rear lower control arm bolts seize and shear inside bushing sleeves
100K-250K
Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts
100K-200K
Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly
100K-200K
Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling
100K-200K
063K125K188K250K mi
The TEC/Hitachi internal-coil distributor on third-generation Integras is a chronic failure point. Heat from the internal ignition coil degrades the coil, igniter (ICM), and bearings, causing intermittent stalling at operating temperature, hot-restart problems, and dead no-starts.
The 1996 Acura Integra has the most overall complaints, with the most-reported problem being distributor failure. This issue can cause difficulty starting the car, stalling, and misfiring.
The car has been in the shop because the driver was driving and it just shut off with no warning or light. Come to find out it was the distributor so they changed it.
Pull DTCs first — codes P1381 (cylinder position sensor) and Code 22 commonly originate inside the distributor.
P1381 is the cylinder position sensor code, located inside the distributor.
Replace the complete OEM distributor assembly (avoid cheap aftermarket — many fail within months). OBD1 (94-95) and OBD2 (96-99) distributors are not interchangeable.
It is worth noting that the distributor plugs are different for each obd generation. So the obd1, and obd2 have different harness plugs.
Budget $250-550 for a quality unit installed.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The electrical contact block on the steering-column ignition switch develops pitted contacts. The car will crank and start, but as soon as the key returns from START to RUN the contact fails and the engine dies. Sometimes the car will run if the key is held partially toward START.
Driving home and the 95 Acura Integra 4 door GSR died on the highway. If trying to start the car, it would start then die as the key was released. Holding the key close to III kept the engine on. The ignition harness switching mechanism contact point was pitted.
Common Symptoms
engine dies when key returns to RUN
intermittent no-start
accessories cut out
must hold key toward START to keep running
How to Fix
Replace the ignition switch electrical portion (not the cylinder/lock) — it unbolts from the back of the steering column lock housing with two screws. OEM Honda part is the most reliable choice.
The issue is starting the car and it dies as soon as you let go of the key. After research, it became obvious it was an ignition switch issue.
Check the under-hood main fuse and the ignition fuses before condemning the switch. Budget $50-150 for parts and 1 hour labor.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
A-Premium five-blade ignition starter switch
Repair part 1998–1999 Integra only; five terminals; bolt-on electrical switch; no keys. More links are needed for 1994–1997.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The Integra's ignition system uses a discrete ignitor module (also called ignition control module, or ICM) mounted inside the distributor cap. The module triggers the coil and is a known failure point on 1990-2001 Integras — replacement units are stocked by most major parts retailers (Beck Arnley, Delphi, Standard Motor Products). Failure presents as a no-spark condition: engine cranks normally but will not start, or starts intermittently. Often happens after the engine reaches operating temperature, then the car will not restart until the module cools — though owners report the failure mode varies. NOTE: 1990-1993 Integras use the OBD-0 diagnostic system, which produces numeric flash codes (e.g. code 15 for ignition) rather than the OBD-II P-codes used from 1996+. The original Honda heat sink part #30121-PM5-A02 mentioned in some installation guides is now discontinued/out of production.
Check engine light with P0300-series misfire codes
Engine starts, runs briefly, then dies
Restart works after the car cools for 30-60 minutes
How to Fix
Test the ignitor before replacing — a multimeter check at the coil primary terminals while cranking will confirm whether the module is sending pulse to the coil. If no pulse: replace. OEM Honda module $80-150, aftermarket (Beck Arnley, Delphi) $30-80. The module sits inside the distributor cap; replacement requires removing the cap and rotor, unscrewing 2 mounting screws, and transferring the heat sink if present (Civic/Integra units may require heat sink #30121-PM5-A02 for correct fitment). Inspect the inside of the distributor cap and rotor for moisture or corrosion while you're in there — a cracked cap allows water in and causes premature module failure on the replacement. Replace cap + rotor at the same time as a preventive measure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
AstroAI digital multimeter for voltage, current, resistance, continuity, and diode testing
Diagnostic tool explicitly required Universal electrical diagnostic tool; not vehicle-specific.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipReplace the distributor cap and rotor at the same time. A cracked cap lets in moisture that fails the module again within months. Both parts are under $50 combined.
TipTest before replacing. Use a multimeter on the coil primary terminals while cranking — if the module is pulsing the coil, the no-start is somewhere else (often the main relay).
The PGM-FI Main Relay is a critical electronic switch that sends power to the fuel pump and engine computer (ECU); when you turn the key it clicks on, allowing the pump to build pressure and the computer to manage the engine — without a working main relay the engine won't get fuel or the electronic commands it needs to run.
The main relay is a known weak point on DA-chassis Integras — over many years the solder joints inside the relay crack from heat and vibration, and the problem is often worse on hot days or after the car has been running, as heat causes the cracked joints to expand and lose connection.
Symptoms include crank-but-no-start after the car sits in the sun, intermittent stalling, and the fuel pump failing to prime audibly when the key is turned to ON.
Common Symptoms
Engine cranks but won't start when hot
No fuel pump prime sound at key-on
Intermittent stalling while driving
Restarts fine after cooling down
Check engine light may not flash codes if relay is dead
How to Fix
Replacing the main relay is one of the easiest repairs on the Integra; it is located under the driver's-side dash, near the hood release lever and to the right of the parking brake pedal — unbolt the mounting bracket (10mm), unplug the harness, and plug in the new relay.
Use a quality replacement — the DA-chassis OEM part number is typically 39400-PM6-003 (verify with your VIN at an Acura dealer or parts store, as several supersessions exist). Reputable aftermarket cross-references include Standard Motor Products RY-passenger-style relays, Beck/Arnley, and Denso. Expect to pay $25-$80 for the part and avoid the cheapest generic relays — reliability matters.
Resoldering the cracked joints on the existing relay's circuit board has been done successfully by many owners, but requires skill with a soldering iron and may not be permanent — a new aftermarket relay is the more reliable repair.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The ignition distributor on 1990-2001 Integras (and all Honda B-series engines of the era) sits at the rear of the head and is driven directly off the exhaust cam. Inside the distributor housing, an oil seal separates the cam-driven shaft from the cap/rotor/electrical assembly above it. When this seal hardens with age and heat cycling, engine oil under pressure leaks past the shaft, fills the cap area, and coats the rotor and contacts. Result: misfires, hard starts, hesitation, stalling at idle, and sometimes a check-engine light for misfire codes. The shaft seal CAN technically be replaced internally, but it is difficult and many shops will not attempt it — they replace the whole distributor instead because reused housings often re-leak quickly. Cleaning the cap helps for a few weeks and then symptoms return.
Oil pooling visibly inside the distributor cap when removed
Engine misfires intermittently, especially under load or after warm-up
Stalling at idle once the engine is hot
Hard start when warm (oil-fouled rotor won't conduct)
Check engine light with P0301-P0304 misfire codes
Briefly improves after distributor cleaning, returns within weeks
How to Fix
Replace the complete distributor. OEM Honda distributors are pricey ($350-500+) but reliable; aftermarket units from Cardone, A1 Cardone, or Spectra Premium are $80-150 and work fine for non-track use. While the distributor is out, also replace the cap, rotor, and ignition wires — they're cheap and replacing them at the same time saves a labor cycle. After install, time the engine to factory spec (16°±2° BTDC at idle with timing-adjust connector unplugged). Do NOT just clean the cap and call it done — the oil keeps coming and you'll be back in 6 weeks. If you're keeping the car long-term, the Honda OEM distributor outlasts aftermarket 2:1.
Owner tips & cautions
TipReplace the cap, rotor, and ignition wires at the same time as the distributor. They're cheap and you're already in there — saves a future labor cycle.
WarningDo NOT just clean the cap and call it fixed. The internal oil leak keeps coming. Cleaning buys you 4-6 weeks before symptoms return.
The Integra infotainment system experiences frequent wireless Apple CarPlay disconnections, navigation freezes, and delayed touchscreen response. The wireless CarPlay implementation drops connection every 10-15 minutes for some owners, requiring the phone to be unplugged and re-paired to restore functionality.
Update to the latest infotainment firmware from an Acura dealer. Forget and re-pair the phone via Bluetooth and CarPlay settings. Use a wired USB connection as a workaround for reliable CarPlay. Reset the infotainment to factory defaults if issues persist after the firmware update.
Owner tips & cautions
TipUse a high-quality USB-C cable for wired CarPlay instead of wireless. The wired connection is rock-solid and charges your phone simultaneously. The wireless CarPlay issues appear to be a Wi-Fi module firmware problem that Acura is still working to resolve.
High Confidence1,100 owner reportsLast reported by owners Mar 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
American Honda recalled certain 2024 Acura Integra and Integra Type S vehicles because the driver's seat cushion frame may not have been tightened properly during assembly. The result is a driver's seat that is not securely anchored to the vehicle. Because of this, the affected Integras do not comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 207, "Seating Systems." NHTSA's consequence statement is blunt: an unsecured driver's seat may not adequately restrain the driver in a crash, raising the risk of injury. The campaign is small — 121 vehicles across every model covered by the recall, not 121 Integras — but the defect is a build error rather than a wear item, so it is present from day one on an affected car and will not announce itself with mileage.
Common Symptoms
Driver's seat feels loose or not solidly anchored to the floor
Driver's seat shifts or moves under braking, acceleration or cornering
How to Fix
The repair is free at any Acura dealer: the dealer replaces the driver's seat cushion frame. Honda mailed owner notification letters on January 6, 2025 — if you bought the Integra used, that letter may have gone to a previous owner, so check your own VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls rather than assuming you were notified. Acura/Honda customer service can be reached at 1-888-234-2138. If the driver's seat feels loose, treat it as urgent and get the car in rather than waiting for a convenient service slot.
US-market 1990-1993 Integras used a motorized passive shoulder belt that travels on a track from the A-pillar to the B-pillar.
A common failure has the auto belt stuck in the down/forward position with the warning light staying on; pulling it back manually doesn't help because once the door is opened and closed it goes back down but won't return.
Symptoms include intermittent retraction — sometimes 100%, sometimes 0%, sometimes stopping partway — accompanied by a constant error beep indicating a seatbelt malfunction.
Failure modes include blown 30A passive-motor fuses, broken door-jamb switches, worn track gears, and seized motors.
Common Symptoms
Shoulder belt stuck in forward (door) position
Belt fails to return when door closes
Constant warning chime/beep
Seat belt warning light stays on
Motor audibly hums but belt doesn't move
Belt retracts only intermittently
How to Fix
The seat-belt fuses are under the hood on the passenger-side shock tower — the fuse-box cover labels them; pull and inspect the passive motor L and R fuses (30A each) first.
Manually unstick the belt by locating the rod with a hex-head fitting on the motor, then use a screwdriver/Allen key to drive the seat-belt motor manually to the rear position before closing the door.
American Acura/Honda has a policy of offering a lifetime warranty on the functional components of their seat belts — as long as the vehicle is an American-market car, has not been in a collision, and the belt assembly has not been modified, American Acura will fix it at their cost; if the dealer refuses, phone Acura Client Relations at (800) 382-2238.
Note that Honda Canada does not honor this policy.
Owner tips & cautions
TipCall Acura Client Relations at (800) 382-2238 if a dealer refuses warranty repair — US-market belts have a lifetime functional warranty regardless of mileage or owner.
WarningDo NOT disable the passive belt and rely only on the lap belt — the lap-only belt was never intended as a standalone restraint and offers poor upper-body protection.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
All B18 engines in the 1994-2001 Integra (DC2/DB7) are interference-design. If the timing belt snaps (or jumps teeth from a seized tensioner or water pump), pistons strike open valves. The belt should be replaced every 90,000 miles along with the water pump, tensioner, and seals.
The timing belt in the DOHC Honda engine keeps the engine running and valvetrain events on time. Because the 1.8 liter B18 engine is an interference engine, failure of the timing belt usually means pistons have hit valves. This can lead to lack of cylinder compression at the bare minimum. At worst the valve may become stuck or destroy the piston.
Common Symptoms
squealing from timing cover
engine misfire
sudden engine stop
no compression after belt break
ticking from timing cover
How to Fix
Replace the complete timing belt kit: belt, tensioner, tensioner spring, water pump, cam and crank seals, and balance shaft belt where applicable.
Non-VTEC LS (B18B1) timing belt part numbers are 14400-P7J-004 or 14400-PR4-A01, paired with the 19-tooth water pump 19200-P75-003 / 19200-PT5-000 / 19200-PT5-003. The VTEC GSR (B18C1) uses timing belt 14400-P72-004 / 14400-P72-014 paired with a 22-tooth water pump.
Do NOT mix LS and GSR water pumps — the tooth counts differ (19T vs 22T) and the belts are different lengths.
Professional cost for preventive replacement: approximately $350-600. Post-failure repair (valve job / head rebuild) can reach $2,000-3,000+.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Acura 14400-P7J-004 timing belt, 125RU26
Fits B18B1
Repair component Non-VTEC B18B1 applications (RS/LS/GS subset); not GS-R/Type R.
KAC timing-belt and water-pump set for B18C1/B18C5, 19200-P72-003 cross-reference
Fits B18C1 / B18C5
Partial repair kit 1994–2001 Integra GS-R / Type R VTEC only. Listing includes belt and pump but not every tensioner, spring, idler, and seal in How to Fix.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
WarningReplace at 90k miles or 5 years even if the belt looks fine; tensioner bearings can seize without warning. Honda's published interval is 90,000-100,000 miles or 5 years under normal conditions.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
All DA and DC Integras (and all Honda B-series transverse cars) use four hydraulic engine mounts: front, rear, passenger-side (the 'side mount'), and driver-side (the transmission mount). The rear and front mounts use a fluid-filled rubber bushing that wears out — typically the rear mount goes first by 100,000 miles, the passenger-side side mount second. Failure signs: clunk when shifting in or out of gear (especially on automatics), vibration at idle that disappears when you press the brake or shift to neutral, and a 'wheel hop' feeling under hard acceleration. Skipping motor mount replacement on a manual Integra accelerates wear on the half-shafts, transmission shift forks, and the trans itself, because the engine is moving around in the bay.
Common Symptoms
Clunk or thud when shifting between Drive and Reverse (auto)
Clunk on engagement of 1st gear from stop (manual)
Vibration at idle that subsides when brake is pressed or trans is in Neutral
Wheel hop or chassis shudder under hard launches
Visible engine rock when revved in neutral
Visible cracks, separation, or fluid leakage on the mount itself
How to Fix
Replace mounts one at a time as they fail, not all four preemptively (the front and side mounts can last 200k+). Diagnose by having a helper rev the engine in neutral while you look — a healthy mount holds the engine still; a dead one lets the engine rock 1-2 inches. Common pattern: rear mount + passenger-side mount are the first two to need replacement, and both are visible from above without lifting. Aftermarket options range from cheap rubber ($30 each) to Energy Suspension polyurethane ($60-100, transmits more vibration but lasts forever) to Innovative Mounts billet ($100-200, used for tracked cars). For a daily-driver Integra, OEM Honda rubber or Cardone is the right balance. Total cost replacing rear + side: $80-300 in parts, 2-3 hours of labor.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
ENA engine motor and transmission mount set of 5 for Acura Integra 1.8L
Fits 1994-2001
Does not cover 1990–1993 or manual/Type R; confirm vehicle fitment.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipDiagnose before buying parts. Have a helper rev in neutral while you watch from the side — a healthy mount holds the engine still, a dead one lets it rock 1-2 inches. Replace only the dead ones.
WarningEnergy Suspension polyurethane mounts ($60-100) last forever but transmit much more vibration into the cabin. Great for track cars, terrible for daily-drivers — your steering wheel and shifter will buzz at idle.
The Integra turbo engines experience significant heat soak during spirited driving in ambient temperatures above 85 degrees F, causing noticeable power loss after sustained high-RPM driving. The intercooler efficiency drops as the engine bay temperature rises, and the ECU pulls timing aggressively to protect the engine.
Common Symptoms
Noticeable power loss after 2-3 hard pulls
Boost pressure drops in hot weather
Slower acceleration times in summer vs. winter
ECU retards timing under sustained load
Intake air temperature readings elevated
How to Fix
Allow 2-3 minutes of gentle driving between spirited runs to cool the intake charge. Ensure the intercooler fins are clean and unobstructed by debris. Aftermarket intercooler upgrades significantly reduce heat soak on the 1.5T. The Type S 2.0T is less affected due to its larger factory intercooler but still benefits from airflow improvements. The 2.0T Type S application begins with model year 2024; 2023 applications are 1.5T only. Match the intercooler to the engine and trim.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipOn the 1.5T, an aftermarket front-mount intercooler (like the PRL Motorsports unit) drops intake temps by 30-40 degrees and virtually eliminates heat soak. It is the single best performance modification for the Integra.
Medium Confidence560 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
The VTEC oil pressure switch screwed into the VTEC solenoid assembly on B18C engines fails or leaks, triggering CEL with OBD1 Code 22 or OBD2 P1259. Symptoms include VTEC not engaging at high RPM and a hard rev-limiter drop.
Owner had a 99 GSR with CEL constantly on and code 22 (VTEC Oil Pressure Switch). Even after replacing it with a new one and swapping the VTEC solenoid, the problem occurred after going into VTEC and letting off, mostly around 60-90mph.
Error code 22 corresponds to the front valve timing oil pressure switch, which is the VTEC oil pressure switch.
Verify oil level and condition first —
if the code is still present after checking, make sure there is plenty of oil and then reset the ECU
. The switch is the green-plug sensor on top of the VTEC solenoid; replace with OEM Honda part.
Replace the switch. It's the green plug located on the vtec solenoid.
If the code returns after replacement, install a mechanical oil pressure gauge —
a worn oil pump or internal leak can cause low pressure that triggers the code; an oil pressure gauge will confirm
. Switch is ~$70 OEM.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
Acura Integra models from 2023 through 2025 are covered by NHTSA recall 24V744000, filed by American Honda. The steering gearbox assembly on affected Integras may have been manufactured incorrectly. The defect creates excessive friction inside the gearbox, and that friction can make the vehicle difficult to steer. NHTSA classifies the consequence plainly: difficulty steering increases the risk of a crash. The campaign is a large one — 1,693,199 units across every Honda and Acura model included, a figure that covers the whole campaign and is not specific to the Integra. Owner notification letters for the campaign were mailed November 18, 2024. Honda's internal recall numbers for this campaign are SJS, MJU, QJT and VJV.
Common Symptoms
Difficulty steering the vehicle
Steering that feels harder to turn than normal
How to Fix
The repair is free at any Acura dealer. The dealer replaces the worm gear spring in the steering gearbox and redistributes or adds grease as necessary — the gearbox itself is not replaced. If you did not receive the November 18, 2024 notification letter, enter your VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls to confirm whether your Integra is included and whether the remedy has already been performed. Honda Customer Service can be reached at 1-888-234-2138; reference recall SJS, MJU, QJT or VJV.
The long bolts that pass through the rear lower control arm inner bushings corrode to the steel sleeve inside the bushing. Any attempt to remove them for alignment, bushing, or shock work results in a sheared bolt and a destroyed bushing sleeve. This is a near-universal complaint in rust-belt cars.
Owners had to cut the ears that go around the LCA off the strut because the bolts rust to the inside of the bushing.
LCA bolts break ALL the time.
Common Symptoms
seized suspension hardware
clunking from rear
unable to align rear
sheared bolt during repair
How to Fix
Soak bolts with penetrating fluid (PB Blaster/Kroil) for days before attempting removal; heat the bushing sleeve with a torch. If the bolt shears, the only fix is to cut the bushing out and drill/punch the remaining sleeve from the subframe ear.
When you are down there and replacing rusted bolts, if they are rusted on bad enough you might have to break the welded nut they go into on the front side of the subframe and trailing arms. You can get matching sized nuts and washers.
Replace with a new vehicle-specific rear lower-control-arm bolt kit. Match the exact seized location and OE dimensions before installation; several rear-LCA fasteners are used on this chassis.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
New rear lower-control-arm bolt kit
Verified repair kit. Approved replacement: New rear lower-control-arm bolt kit.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The wheel bearings on the 1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA chassis, second generation) are critical parts located inside the wheel hub assembly — for the DA-generation Integra these are press-in style bearings pressed into the steering knuckle in the front and the hub/spindle in the rear, and they support the full weight of the car while it's in motion.
When a wheel bearing starts to go bad it usually gives warning signs; ignoring them can lead to serious problems including the wheel separating from the car, and the most common sign is a humming, rumbling, or grinding sound that gets louder with speed.
The hum is often hard to localize from inside the cabin — passengers in the back may each think it's on their side — but it typically lessens when steering loads the bad bearing's opposite side (e.g., turning right unloads the left side, so if noise decreases when turning right, the left bearing is likely the culprit).
Common Symptoms
Humming or rumbling noise that increases with speed
Noise changes pitch or volume when turning
Vibration through floor at highway speed
Slight wheel play when rocked on jack stands
Uneven inner tire wear
How to Fix
This is an advanced DIY job. Some owners replace the rear as a complete pre-pressed hub assembly (commonly $80-$120 from aftermarket suppliers), which avoids press work; others source just the bearing/race and press it into the spindle/knuckle using a hydraulic shop press (or have a machine shop do it). Front bearings on the DA always require pressing into the knuckle.
Quality replacement brands include SKF, Timken, FAG, Koyo and NSK (the latter two are often OEM suppliers to Honda).
Rear bearings are a bit more expensive but easier to access than the fronts.
Budget $40-$120 per bearing/assembly plus press/labor; total shop cost typically $200-$450 per corner.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
MOOG rear wheel bearing and hub assembly for 1990–1993 Acura Integra
Repair part Exact 1990–1993 Integra rear position.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipDiagnose by steering side-to-side at highway speed: if the hum lessens when steering right, the bad bearing is on the left (unloaded) side, and vice versa.
TipFor the rear, you can often buy a complete pre-assembled hub/bearing unit for roughly $80-$120, which avoids needing access to a hydraulic press.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
A very common problem on 90-93 Integras where, after many years, the foam seals beneath the windshield cowl no longer keep water out and it ends up on the passenger floor after passing through the blower motor and rusting it out.
The drainage paths beneath the cowl are very shallow and are easily clogged with accumulated dust and leaf matter; one drainage path runs right over the hole where the blower sucks in air, so if there is a blockage downstream rainwater pours right into the blower assembly.
Drivers see soaked passenger carpet, foggy windshield, musty smell, and eventually a dead blower motor or resistor.
Common Symptoms
Wet passenger-side floor mat after rain
Water sprays from vents when blower is turned on
Musty/mildew interior smell
Foggy windshield that won't clear
Blower motor dead or noisy
Rusted blower motor housing
How to Fix
Order eight of Honda part number 91608-SJ6-003 (the clear grommet/seal pieces) from a Honda or Acura dealer — they are inexpensive at roughly $2.50 each.
Remove the wiper arms (14mm) and the black plastic cowl, clear out all leaf debris from the drainage channels, then replace the old foam strip with new urethane weatherstripping and reinstall with the new grommets.
Remove the wipers, pop the 7-8 pins, undo the pins along the perimeter under the hood, clean out the drainage paths, scrape out the old weather stripping, and replace with 1/4" wide, 1/2" thick urethane weather stripping for a permanent fix.
If the blower motor or resistor has already corroded, replace those at the same time.
Owner tips & cautions
TipOrder 8x Honda P/N 91608-SJ6-003 grommets before starting — they're cheap (~$2.50 each) and you'll destroy the originals on removal.
WarningIf the blower has been getting wet for a while, plan on also replacing the blower motor and the resistor — water corrodes both.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
Any Integra that still has the rear wheel arch protectors is already starting to rust, even if not visible on the outside — pulling a protector typically reveals wet mud trapped against the inner arch lip with rust eating the metal underneath.
This is one of the most common problems on 90's Hondas; it happens on Integras, Civics and Preludes, and the rust bubbles up around the bumper bolt area requiring it to be ground or cut out.
Owners in salt-belt and humid regions see bubbling paint at the rear wheel arch lip, holes through rocker panels, and structural rust that fails safety inspection.
All G2 Integras came with rear wheel arch protectors — pull them off as preventive maintenance; Acura wanted around $40-$50 each for them new.
For early rust, cut out affected metal with at least one inch of clean margin, treat the inner frame with a rust converter such as POR-15, and weld in patch panels (92-95 Civic patch panels can be modified to fit).
Proper repair is to replace the complete rear quarter — body shop estimates run around $4000 for both sides with paint; DIY gutting/stripping can drop it closer to $2000-$3500.
Aftermarket wheel arch and quarter patch panels are available from Mill Supply and other restoration vendors.
Owner tips & cautions
TipRemove the plastic rear wheel-arch protectors and clean out trapped mud as soon as you buy the car — that's where the rust starts.
WarningBondo-over is cosmetic only — structural rust on rockers will fail safety inspection and continue to spread.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The CV joints are lubricated with grease and sealed inside rubber boots that hold the grease in and keep dirt out; over time the boots crack or tear, grease escapes and dirt enters the joint causing it to break down, and the joint develops excessive play in its bearings, producing a repetitive clicking sound when accelerating through a curve.
Clicking or popping noise when turning is the classic sign of a worn outer CV joint, most obvious during sharp low-speed turns like in a parking lot; vibrations while accelerating and dark heavy grease splattered on the inner edge of the tire are additional symptoms.
Common on the B18A1-powered DA chassis where the outer boots crack with age and especially after donuts in reverse or hard cornering.
Common Symptoms
Clicking or popping when turning at low speed
Grease splattered on inner wheel and suspension
Clunk on acceleration or shifting into gear
Vibration at highway speed
Torn or cracked outer boot visible at full lock
How to Fix
If the boot has just torn and no elements got into the joint, regreasing and rebooting can work — a $10 boot kit vs. a $60 replacement axle is the tradeoff.
Reman axles run around $50 each and boot kits about $25 — AutoZone and similar carry both for the 1992 Integra 1.8L DOHC.
Pack outer CV joint boot with molybdenum disulfide grease, lube the spider and inside bore of rollers, ensure rollers are aligned with marks made at disassembly and install with the high side of rollers facing outward.
Use new boot clamps (low-profile metal bands included in kit). Most owners simply swap the full reman half-shaft for under $100/side — quicker than rebooting. Always replace the axle nut and use a new transaxle retaining ring.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Front outer boot, 1990–2001 Integra
Verified repair component. Approved replacement: Front outer boot, 1990–2001 Integra.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
The Honda BAXA/MAXA 4-speed automatic in the Integra is notoriously sensitive to fluid condition and shift-solenoid contamination. Solenoid A/B failure causes flashing D4 light, harsh or missed 2-3/3-4 shifts, loss of power in D4/D3, and sometimes speedometer drop-out.
Integra often faces delayed or missed shifts and manual downshifting difficulties in automatic transmissions. Shifting problems in the 1998 Integra's automatic transmission can stem from a clogged transmission filter or screen restricting fluid flow. This causes poor hydraulic pressure, leading to missed 4th gear shifts and failure to downshift.
While driving, the D4 suddenly lost almost all power, wouldn't shift, and the speedometer stopped working. Codes returned were Automatic Transaxle FI A circuit failure and ELD error.
Drain-and-fill with Honda ATF-Z1/DW-1 (NEVER use generic Dexron — it will destroy the clutches).
The transmission fluid in the Integra 4AT's are supposed to be changed every 3 years/36,000 mi. It can cook and wear out just like the oil in your engine.
Pull codes with a Honda jumper or scan tool; the lock-up and shift solenoids are external, three-bolt parts accessible from the engine bay and often just need cleaning.
A screwed up lock-up solenoid will give you a general CEL #70 (Automatic Transaxle); the solenoid is totally accessible from the engine bay and costs less than $200 to replace. It's held in place by three bolts.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High ConfidenceLast reported by owners May 2026Reviewed May 2026
Campaign #26V05400029/01/2026
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
CERTAIN AAI MOTORSPORTS COMBINATION LAMPS SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON THE ABOVE LIST PASSENGER VEHICLES. COMBINATION LAMPS NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT."
Campaign #06E06000029/06/2006
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
CERTAIN CK MOTORSPORTS COMBINATION HEADLIGHTS, CLEAR CORNER, BUMPER, AND SIDE MARKER LIGHTS SOLD AS REPLACEMENT LAMPS FOR USE ON THE PASSENGER VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. SOME COMBINATION LAMPS THAT ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS FAIL TO CONFORM TO FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT.
What is the 1994-2001 Acura Integra Timing belt failure on interference B18 engine bends valves?
All B18 engines in the 1994-2001 Integra (DC2/DB7) are interference-design. If the timing belt snaps (or jumps teeth from a seized tensioner or water pump), pistons strike open valves. The belt should be replaced every 90,000 miles along with the water pump, tensioner, and seals. Repairs typically run $350-$3,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1999 Acura Integra Internal distributor failure causing stalling, no-start, and misfires?
The TEC/Hitachi internal-coil distributor on third-generation Integras is a chronic failure point. Heat from the internal ignition coil degrades the coil, igniter (ICM), and bearings, causing intermittent stalling at operating temperature, hot-restart problems, and dead no-starts… Repairs typically run $250-$600. Severity: high.
What is the 2024 Acura Integra Driver's Seat Cushion Frame Not Properly Tightened — Recall 24V859 (2024 Integra / Integra Type S)?
American Honda recalled certain 2024 Acura Integra and Integra Type S vehicles because the driver's seat cushion frame may not have been tightened properly during assembly. The result is a driver's seat that is not securely anchored to the vehicle. Because of this, the affected I… Severity: high.
What is the 2023-2025 Acura Integra Steering Gearbox Recall 24V744 — Excessive Internal Friction Makes the Integra Hard to Steer?
Acura Integra models from 2023 through 2025 are covered by NHTSA recall 24V744000, filed by American Honda. The steering gearbox assembly on affected Integras may have been manufactured incorrectly. The defect creates excessive friction inside the gearbox, and that friction can m… Severity: high.
What is the 1994-1999 Acura Integra Ignition switch contact pitting causes engine to die when key released?
The electrical contact block on the steering-column ignition switch develops pitted contacts. The car will crank and start, but as soon as the key returns from START to RUN the contact fails and the engine dies. Sometimes the car will run if the key is held partially toward START… Repairs typically run $50-$200. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Motorized passive shoulder belt sticks on track or fails to move?
US-market 1990-1993 Integras used a motorized passive shoulder belt that travels on a track from the A-pillar to the B-pillar.
A common failure has the auto belt stuck in the down/forward position with the warning light staying on; pulling it back manually doesn't help because o… Repairs typically run $0-$600. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Ignitor / ignition control module inside the distributor fails — intermittent or no-start?
The Integra's ignition system uses a discrete ignitor module (also called ignition control module, or ICM) mounted inside the distributor cap. The module triggers the coil and is a known failure point on 1990-2001 Integras — replacement units are stocked by most major parts retai… Repairs typically run $30-$200. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Outer CV joint boot tears leading to joint failure and clicking?
The CV joints are lubricated with grease and sealed inside rubber boots that hold the grease in and keep dirt out; over time the boots crack or tear, grease escapes and dirt enters the joint causing it to break down, and the joint develops excessive play in its bearings, produci… Repairs typically run $50-$1,150. Severity: medium.
What is the 1994-2001 Acura Integra Rear lower control arm bolts seize and shear inside bushing sleeves?
The long bolts that pass through the rear lower control arm inner bushings corrode to the steel sleeve inside the bushing. Any attempt to remove them for alignment, bushing, or shock work results in a sheared bolt and a destroyed bushing sleeve. This is a near-universal complaint… Repairs typically run $100-$800. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Engine motor mounts crack and collapse — drivetrain vibration + clunk on shifts?
All DA and DC Integras (and all Honda B-series transverse cars) use four hydraulic engine mounts: front, rear, passenger-side (the 'side mount'), and driver-side (the transmission mount). The rear and front mounts use a fluid-filled rubber bushing that wears out — typically the r… Repairs typically run $80-$500. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra PGM-FI main relay solder joint cracks cause hot-weather no-start?
The PGM-FI Main Relay is a critical electronic switch that sends power to the fuel pump and engine computer (ECU); when you turn the key it clicks on, allowing the pump to build pressure and the computer to manage the engine — without a working main relay the engine won't get fu… Repairs typically run $25-$150. Severity: medium.
What is the 1994-1999 Acura Integra 4-speed automatic: shift solenoid failure causes D4 light flash, missed shifts, and limp mode?
The Honda BAXA/MAXA 4-speed automatic in the Integra is notoriously sensitive to fluid condition and shift-solenoid contamination. Solenoid A/B failure causes flashing D4 light, harsh or missed 2-3/3-4 shifts, loss of power in D4/D3, and sometimes speedometer drop-out.
Integra o… Repairs typically run $150-$3,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Passenger-side cowl seal leak floods blower motor and floor pan?
A very common problem on 90-93 Integras where, after many years, the foam seals beneath the windshield cowl no longer keep water out and it ends up on the passenger floor after passing through the blower motor and rusting it out.
The drainage paths beneath the cowl are very sh… Repairs typically run $30-$350. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear quarter panel and rocker panel rust-through behind wheel arch protectors?
Any Integra that still has the rear wheel arch protectors is already starting to rust, even if not visible on the outside — pulling a protector typically reveals wet mud trapped against the inner arch lip with rust eating the metal underneath.
This is one of the most common pr… Repairs typically run $200-$4,000. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1993 Acura Integra Rear wheel bearing hum from press-in hub assembly?
The wheel bearings on the 1990-1993 Acura Integra (DA chassis, second generation) are critical parts located inside the wheel hub assembly — for the DA-generation Integra these are press-in style bearings pressed into the steering knuckle in the front and the hub/spindle in the… Repairs typically run $80-$500. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-2001 Acura Integra Distributor internal shaft seal fails, oil leaks into cap and causes misfires + stalling?
The ignition distributor on 1990-2001 Integras (and all Honda B-series engines of the era) sits at the rear of the head and is driven directly off the exhaust cam. Inside the distributor housing, an oil seal separates the cam-driven shaft from the cap/rotor/electrical assembly ab… Repairs typically run $80-$600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2023-2025 Acura Integra Infotainment System Software Bugs and Wireless CarPlay Drops?
The Integra infotainment system experiences frequent wireless Apple CarPlay disconnections, navigation freezes, and delayed touchscreen response. The wireless CarPlay implementation drops connection every 10-15 minutes for some owners, requiring the phone to be unplugged and re-p… Severity: low.
What is the 2023-2026 Acura Integra Turbo Heat Soak and Power Loss in Hot Weather?
The Integra turbo engines experience significant heat soak during spirited driving in ambient temperatures above 85 degrees F, causing noticeable power loss after sustained high-RPM driving. The intercooler efficiency drops as the engine bay temperature rises, and the ECU pulls t… Severity: low.
What is the 1994-2001 Acura Integra VTEC oil pressure switch failure (Code 22 / P1259) on GS-R and Type R?
The VTEC oil pressure switch screwed into the VTEC solenoid assembly on B18C engines fails or leaks, triggering CEL with OBD1 Code 22 or OBD2 P1259. Symptoms include VTEC not engaging at high RPM and a hard rev-limiter drop.
Owner had a 99 GSR with CEL constantly on and code 22… Repairs typically run $70-$250. Severity: low.
