According to Au7o's analysis of 3,205+ owner reports, the 1960-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser has 27 documented known issues, with 10 rated critical. The most serious are 100 Series Frame Rust and Corrosion ($300-$8,000 repair), AHC (Active Height Control) Suspension Failure ($800-$5,000 repair), Timing Belt Tensioner and Water Pump Failure (2UZ-FE) ($1,000-$2,500 repair), Front Brake Hose Interference and Potential Fluid Leak ($0-$800 repair), Inadequate Drum Brakes (Single-Circuit Early Cars) ($600-$2,500 repair), FJ40 Body Tub & Quarter-Panel Rust (Rockers, Floors, Wheel Arches, Cowl) ($1,500-$12,000 repair), Body and frame rust: rear quarter panels, rockers, and frame rails ($500-$6,000 repair), 1FZ-FE head gasket failure (pre-1998 design) ($1,500-$3,500 repair), Undersized Cooling System — F/2F Overheating. at .
Gulf States Toyota, Inc. (GST) is recalling certain Toyota 2023 GR Supra, 2024 4 Runner, Corolla, Grand Highlander, Grand Highlander Hybrid, Land Cruiser Hybrid, Tacoma, Tacoma Hybrid, 2023-2024 BZ4X, Corolla Cross Hybrid, GR Corolla, GR86, Highlander, Highlander Hybrid, Prius, Prius Prime, Sequoia Hybrid, Tundra, Tundra Hybrid, Venza Hybrid, 2023-2025 Crown, and 2025 Camry Hybrid vehicles equipped with GST accessories. The load carrying capacity modification label may display inaccurate added weight values. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 110, "Tire Selection and Rims."
Campaign #24V54800023/07/2024
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What are the most common Toyota Land Cruiser problems?
According to Au7o's analysis of 3,205+ owner reports, the 1960-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser has 27 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: 100 Series Frame Rust and Corrosion, AHC (Active Height Control) Suspension Failure, Timing Belt Tensioner and Water Pump Failure (2UZ-FE). Of these, 10 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Toyota Land Cruiser reliable?
The 1960-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser has 27 known issues documented across 3,205+ owner reports. 10 issues are rated critical: 100 Series Frame Rust and Corrosion and AHC (Active Height Control) Suspension Failure and Timing Belt Tensioner and Water Pump Failure (2UZ-FE) and Front Brake Hose Interference and Potential Fluid Leak and Inadequate Drum Brakes (Single-Circuit Early Cars) and FJ40 Body Tub & Quarter-Panel Rust (Rockers, Floors, Wheel Arches, Cowl) and Body and frame rust: rear quarter panels, rockers, and frame rails and 1FZ-FE head gasket failure (pre-1998 design) and Undersized Cooling System — F/2F Overheating and Front Lower Ball Joint Wear and Separation Risk (100 Series). Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Toyota Land Cruiser problems?
Repair costs for known Toyota Land Cruiser issues range from $0 to $12,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, 100 Series Frame Rust and Corrosion, typically costs $300-$8,000 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What year Toyota Land Cruiser is the most reliable?
Reliability varies across model years of the Toyota Land Cruiser. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1960-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser with 27 documented issues documented across 3,205+ owner reports.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
Filter:
When Issues Typically Appear
Front Brake Hose Interference and Potential Fluid Leak
0K-15K
12-Volt Battery Drain and No-Start After Short Parking Periods
0K-10K
Driver Assistance False Alerts and Temporary Sensor Blockage Warnings in Rain, Dust, or Snow
0K-30K
Multimedia Screen Freezing, Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto Dropouts, and Camera Glitches
0K-20K
Transmission Hesitation or Harsh Shift Behavior Requiring ECM/TCM Calibration Update
1K-30K
Timing Belt Tensioner and Water Pump Failure (2UZ-FE)
72K-108K
038K75K113K150K mi
Community reported
1,400 owners
100 Series Land Cruisers (J100) develop significant frame rust in salt-belt regions, particularly along the rear frame rails, crossmembers, and body mounts. Despite the vehicle's legendary reliability, frame corrosion is the primary structural concern for high-mileage examples.
Common Symptoms
Visible rust scale on frame rails
Body mount separation
Rear crossmember deterioration
Exhaust hangers breaking through rusted frame
Failed safety inspection
How to Fix
For early rust: sand to bare metal, treat with POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and apply annual Fluid Film undercoating. Moderate rust requires welded reinforcement plates. Severe cases need professional frame-off restoration or donor frame swap. Due to rising 100 Series values ($20K-$60K+), frame restoration is often worthwhile.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
POR-15 PB-3SS 3-Step Stop Rust System
clean, etch and coat stable surface corrosion; not for perforated or section-thinned structure Fitment/availability: Vehicle-independent surface-preparation and coating system; use only after the 100-series frame is proven structurally s…
recurring salt/moisture protection after sound-metal repair; not a rust converter or structural fix Fitment/availability: Vehicle-independent renewable corrosion barrier for accessible 100-series frame, axle and underbody surfaces after …
High Confidence1,400 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2026Reviewed Feb 2026
Rust is the single biggest enemy of an FJ40 restoration and follows a predictable pattern across every year of the run. The thin factory steel and lack of cavity protection let water collect in the rear quarter panels (the lower 'dogleg' ahead of the rear arch), the rocker panels/door sills, the floor pans and seat risers, the rear wheel-well lips, the body mounts, and the cowl/firewall vent area. Mud and salt pack into the boxed rockers and double-skinned quarters, so cars that look 'rust-free' from outside are frequently rotten from the inside out. Because the frame also carries every off-road load, frame rail and crossmember corrosion is structural, not cosmetic. Untreated, the tub loses its structural integrity and door/tailgate alignment goes away.
Common Symptoms
Bubbling/blistering paint along rear quarters and rockers
Soft or perforated floor pans and seat mounts
Rust holes at rear wheel-arch lips and lower doglegs
Doors and tailgate no longer align or latch cleanly
Flaking, scaly rust on frame rails and body mounts
How to Fix
Restorers cut out ALL the rot rather than coat over it, then weld in reproduction steel: CCOT/Specter/Aqualu 16-gauge quarter-panel patch panels and dogleg sections, new rocker/sill panels, and full replacement or fabricated floor pans (many builds upgrade to heavier diamond-plate floors). Critically, the proven bulletproofing step is to treat the inside of the boxed cavities AFTER welding — flush with rust converter/epoxy primer and pump cavity wax (Cosmoline/Fluid Film/Eastwood) into the rockers, quarters and frame rails so the repair doesn't simply rot again from within. Epoxy-prime bare steel immediately, seam-seal all overlaps, and undercoat. Frame rot is addressed by boxing/plating the rails or, in severe cases, a replacement frame.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
RebornFJ SYC-TY65-06L steel left rear fender/quarter panel
left quarter replacement when rust extends beyond a small patch but the remaining tub is sound Fitment/availability: 1968-1984 FJ40 left/driver-side rear quarter; bare panel excludes lights, flares and hardware Fitment/availability: Live…
RebornFJ stamped steel outer rocker panel, selectable side
outer rocker skin after the inner sill and body mounts are proven repairable Fitment/availability: FJ40/FJ45 selectable outer rocker side; confirm production-year contours, LHD/RHD and adjoining panel condition before purchase Fitment/av…
RebornFJ heavy-gauge front floor repair panel, selectable side
localized weld-in floor-pan branch after surrounding supports are inspected Fitment/availability: 1968-1984 FJ40/FJ45 left or right front floor; verify transmission cover, seat mount, fuel-tank and drive-side configuration Fitment/availa…
complete rear-half replacement when floor, wheel wells and side panels are too extensively corroded for isolated patches Fitment/availability: 1968-1978 FJ40 left-hand-drive rear body; not the 1979-1984 or early pre-1968 branch Fitment/a…
In salt-belt and coastal climates, corrosion is the primary killer of these otherwise-durable trucks. The rear quarter panels are a notorious rot spot: the rear wheel-arch extension acts as a bucket that traps wet mud and road salt, and water intrusion past the rear side-window and tailgate seals (with no drain holes in the spot-welded section) rusts the panels from the inside out. Owners should also inspect the frame rails, body mounts, rocker panels, and wheel wells. Because mechanical parts commonly outlast the sheet metal and frame, rust condition is often the deciding factor in whether a 1990s Land Cruiser is worth restoring.
Common Symptoms
Bubbling/perforation at rear wheel-arch and quarter panels
Rusty rocker panels and body-mount areas
Flaking/scaling frame rails
Water/dampness in rear cargo area
How to Fix
Cut out and weld in replacement quarter-panel/rocker repair sections (reproduction doglegs and OEM-style panels are available), fix the water-intrusion source (reseal windows and tailgate), and treat/cavity-wax the frame. For surface frame rust, media-blast and coat; for perforated frame or body mounts, weld in new steel. Preventive rinsing of the rear arches and undercoating markedly slows progression.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
CruiserYard rust-free used FJ80/FZJ80 right rear quarter panel
rust-free donor panel for extensive right-quarter corrosion when a full section is justified Fitment/availability: 1991-1997 FJ80/FZJ80/LX450 right/passenger-side rear quarter; verify flare, molding, cut boundaries and freight before pur…
Toyota 61031-60010/60011 genuine right rear-lower quarter extension
lower dogleg/quarter extension when corrosion is localized to the matching early 80-series panel Fitment/availability: VIN- and production-date-confirmed FJ80/FZJ80 right rear-lower quarter extension; early 61031-60010 is replaced by 610…
Toyota 61114-60020 genuine left upper quarter/side outer panel
100-series left upper-quarter section, not an 80-series repair panel Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1998-1999 Land Cruiser 100-series left/driver-side upper quarter within this issue; seller catalog continues the part through 2007 F…
The 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8 uses a timing belt that must be replaced at 90,000-mile intervals. The hydraulic timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys are critical failure points — if the tensioner fails, the timing belt can slip or break, potentially causing valve-to-piston contact on this interference engine. The water pump is driven by the timing belt and commonly leaks at the same mileage interval. Since the labor to access the timing belt is 6-8 hours, all components (belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, water pump) should be replaced together as a comprehensive timing belt service.
Common Symptoms
Squealing or chirping noise from timing belt area
Coolant leak from water pump weep hole
Engine approaching or past 90,000 miles without timing belt service
Timing belt showing cracks or wear on inspection
Rough idle or engine timing issues
How to Fix
Perform a comprehensive timing belt service every 90,000 miles, replacing the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, both idler pulleys, and water pump together. A complete timing belt kit with water pump costs $250-$500 for parts. Labor is 6-8 hours ($600-$1,200) due to the tight engine bay and need to remove accessories for access. Use OEM Toyota or Aisin (OEM supplier) components only — aftermarket timing belts and tensioners have higher failure rates on this engine. Always replace the thermostat and coolant while the system is apart. Total cost: $1,000-$1,800 at an independent shop, $1,500-$2,500 at the dealer.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
AISIN TKT-021 complete 2UZ-FE timing-belt and water-pump kit
matched belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner bearing and idler bearing service kit Fitment/availability: 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7L 2UZ-FE; confirm VIN and that the complete kit contents match the existing production …
condition-based front seal/gasket branch when inspection shows leakage during timing service Fitment/availability: Vehicle-selector-confirmed 2UZ-FE Land Cruiser timing-cover application; confirm VIN before purchase Fitment/availability:…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
WarningDo NOT skip or delay the 90,000-mile timing belt service. The 2UZ-FE is an interference engine — if the belt breaks, valves hit pistons and you are looking at a $5,000-$8,000 engine rebuild. This is the single most important maintenance item on the 100-series.
TipAlways replace the water pump with the timing belt. The pump costs $60-$100 extra and the labor is already done. A water pump failure between timing belt services means paying for the full labor again.
The 4.5L 1FZ-FE's original head gasket design was prone to leaking between coolant passages, and the earlier 80-series years are the most affected. Any overheating event dramatically accelerates failure, and a factory 'center-bias' coolant temp gauge let many owners run near or over the overheat mark unknowingly. Symptoms are the classic head-gasket set: white smoke on cold start, coolant consumption with no external leak, an oily film in the coolant, milky residue on the oil cap/dipstick, and overheating. Toyota revised the cylinder head/ignition (coil-on-plug, crank/cam sensors) for the post-1998 engines, so the gasket concern is specifically a pre-1998 one. The engine is otherwise extremely long-lived, so a head-gasket job is usually worth doing.
Common Symptoms
White smoke from exhaust on cold start
Coolant loss with no visible external leak
Milky oil on dipstick/filler cap
Oily film in coolant / overflow bottle
Engine overheating
How to Fix
Replace the head gasket with the updated OEM gasket, have the head checked for flatness and pressure-tested/machined as needed, and address the root cause by refreshing the cooling system (radiator, PHH and other hoses, thermostat, fan clutch) to prevent repeat overheating. Because the 1FZ-FE uses a timing chain (no belt interval), the head job plus cooling refresh is the primary longevity investment on these trucks.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 11115-66031 genuine updated 1FZ-FE cylinder-head gasket
updated head gasket only after combustion leakage and repairability are confirmed Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1993-1997 US Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE; current gasket replaces 11115-66030 and 11115-66020 Fitment/availability: Live direct…
condition-based early radiator branch when leakage, restriction or tank failure contributed to overheating Fitment/availability: VIN- and production-date-confirmed early 1993-1994/selected later FZJ80 cooling configuration Fitment/availa…
condition-based later radiator branch when testing proves it is compromised Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1995-1997 FZJ80 later branch; replaces 16400-66080 Fitment/availability: Live direct product page showing Add to Cart
condition- or age-based thermostat during a documented cooling-system refresh Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1993-1997 Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE; replaces 90916-03094 Fitment/availability: Live direct product page showing Add to Cart
The secondary air injection system on the 200 Series Land Cruiser (3UR-FE and later engines) fails due to moisture intrusion and corrosion of the air switching valves and pump motor. The system pumps air into the exhaust manifold during cold starts to reduce emissions. When it fails, it triggers check engine lights and can prevent the vehicle from passing emissions testing.
Common Symptoms
Check engine light on cold starts
Rough idle for first 30-60 seconds
Whirring noise from engine bay on startup
Failed emissions inspection
Multiple air injection fault codes
How to Fix
Replace the air injection pump, air switching valves, and check valves. Clean or replace corroded wiring connectors. Some owners delete the system entirely with aftermarket tune, though this prevents passing emissions in tested states. Toyota TSB-0111-10 addresses the updated valve design.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 17610-0S010 genuine secondary-air pump assembly
early pump branch, replacing only the unit proven failed by command and electrical/flow testing Fitment/availability: VIN- and production-date-confirmed 2008 through early-2013/2014 Land Cruiser 3UR-FE branch; catalog requires quantity t…
Toyota 17610-0S030 genuine secondary-air pump assembly
later pump branch after component-specific diagnosis Fitment/availability: VIN- and production-date-confirmed late-2013 through 2021 Land Cruiser 3UR-FE branch; catalog requires quantity two Fitment/availability: Live direct product page…
Toyota 25701-38064 genuine electric air-control valve assembly
replace only after active testing proves the electric valve is stuck, leaking or electrically failed Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 2008-2021 Land Cruiser 3UR-FE catalog branch; exact production supersession and associated gaskets m…
High Confidence245 owner reportsLast reported by owners Mar 2026Reviewed Mar 2026
The 1998-1999 100-series (UZJ100) switched to the 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8, which uses a rubber timing belt on a ~90,000-mile replacement interval. The timing-belt-driven water pump, the hydraulic tensioner, and the idler pulleys are the common failure points and are typically leaking or worn by that interval (water-pump failure often precedes belt wear). There is a long-running interference vs. non-interference debate: Toyota officially lists it as interference, but the community consensus (and documented belt breaks on the early non-VVT-i 2UZ-FE) is that it generally does not bend valves when a belt snaps at low RPM. Regardless, a broken belt strands the vehicle, and careless belt jobs can nick the crank sensor reluctor wheel or pinch/route wiring wrong, causing no-start or timing DTCs.
Common Symptoms
Coolant leak from front of engine (water pump)
Squeal or rattle from timing cover area
Belt due/overdue by mileage or age
No-start or rough running after a prior belt job (sensor/wiring damage)
How to Fix
Replace the timing belt as a complete kit at ~90k-mile intervals: belt, hydraulic tensioner, idler/tensioner pulleys, and the timing-belt-driven water pump (Aisin/OEM), plus front crank/cam seals while apart. Take care not to damage the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel and route the crank-sensor/oil-sender harness to avoid belt chafe. This is a 6-8 hour labor job, so doing all wear items at once is standard practice.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
AISIN TKT-021 2UZ-FE timing-belt and water-pump kit
matched timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler service kit Fitment/availability: 1998-1999 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7L 2UZ-FE within this issue; seller lists 1998-2007 Land Cruiser coverage Fitment/availability: Live US direct product…
condition-based front seal set while timing components are removed Fitment/availability: Vehicle-fitment-confirmed 1998-1999 Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE; kit contains front crank and two cam seals plus timing-cover seal components Fitment/availa…
The secondary air injection (AI) system on the 100-series Land Cruiser (1998-2007) with the 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8 is a notorious failure point, identical to the issue on the Sequoia and Tundra of the same era. The electric AI pump, air switching valves (ASV), and exhaust manifold check valves all fail. The aluminum check valves in the exhaust manifolds corrode and seize, the ASV sticks from carbon buildup, and the pump motor eventually burns out. This system is responsible for the most common check engine light on 100-series Land Cruisers.
Common Symptoms
Check engine light with air injection codes
Loud whirring from AI pump on cold start
AI pump not running on cold start (silence where there should be noise)
Multiple emissions-related fault codes
Failed emissions inspection
How to Fix
The complete repair involves replacing the AI pump ($300-$500), both ASV valves ($200-$400 each), and both exhaust manifold check valves ($100-$200 each). Total dealer cost: $1,500-$3,000. Many Land Cruiser owners in non-emissions states delete the entire AI system and install an ECU tune to suppress the codes ($300-$500 for the tune). In emissions states, the full repair is required. A common partial fix is to replace just the check valves and ASV, leaving the pump in place — the pump usually fails last.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 17600-0F010 genuine secondary-air pump assembly
bulletin-specified pump replacement after the covered DTC diagnostic path confirms the condition Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 2005-2007 Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE; T-SB-0230-12 repair authority is limited to applicable 2006-2007 vehicles…
Toyota 25710-50022 genuine secondary-air control/check valve
replace only when inspection under T-SB-0230-12 shows debris damage to this valve Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 2005-2007 Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE; current valve replaces 25710-50020 and 25710-50021 Fitment/availability: Live direct pro…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipJoin IH8MUD.com — the definitive Land Cruiser forum. The AI system delete with ECU tune is thoroughly documented there with step-by-step instructions and recommended tuners.
The 200 Series Land Cruiser's AHC hydraulic suspension system develops leaks, pump failures, and height sensor issues. Accumulators lose nitrogen charge, causing a harsh ride. The AHC pump can fail, leaving the vehicle stuck at one height. Repairs are expensive due to specialized components.
Common Symptoms
Vehicle sitting low on one corner or side
AHC warning light on dashboard
Harsh or bouncy ride quality
Suspension not adjusting height
Hydraulic fluid leak at shock absorbers
How to Fix
Diagnose with Toyota Techstream to identify which component has failed. Replace leaking AHC shock absorbers (Toyota 48510-69485 front, 48530-69145 rear - $800-1,200 each). Replace accumulators if ride is harsh (nitrogen recharge not available). AHC pump replacement runs $1,500-2,500. Some owners convert to conventional shocks (Bilstein 5100 or OME) for $2,000-3,000 total, eliminating the AHC system.
High Confidence890 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2026Reviewed Feb 2026
The 1998-2007 100 Series Land Cruiser (J100) develops lower ball joint wear, particularly on vehicles used for off-roading or carrying heavy loads. The sealed ball joints cannot be greased and wear out over time. Toyota does not sell the ball joints separately from the lower control arm (LCA), requiring aftermarket parts for standalone ball joint replacement. Worn ball joints cause clunking, steering wander, and uneven tire wear. Complete ball joint separation, while rare, is a critical safety concern that can cause loss of steering control. Regular inspection at every oil change is recommended for high-mileage 100 Series trucks.
Common Symptoms
Clunking noise from front end over bumps
Steering wander or imprecise feel
Uneven front tire wear (inner or outer edge)
Vehicle drifts or pulls under braking
Visible play when checking ball joints with vehicle jacked up
Popping sound when turning at low speed
How to Fix
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota genuine 1998-2007 IFS 100/470 front-left lower control arm SUS48640
complete left lower-arm replacement after the left joint or arm assembly fails inspection Fitment/availability: 1998-2007 IFS Land Cruiser 100-series/Lexus 470 left side; includes the ball joint and outer bushing but not the rear inner f…
Toyota genuine 1998-2007 IFS 100/470 front-right lower control arm SUS48620
complete right lower-arm replacement after the right joint or arm assembly fails inspection Fitment/availability: 1998-2007 IFS Land Cruiser 100-series/Lexus 470 right side; includes the ball joint and outer bushing but not the rear inne…
The KDSS system uses hydraulic cylinders connected to the front and rear stabilizer bars to improve both on-road handling and off-road articulation. The hydraulic lines, cylinders, and accumulator develop leaks over time, causing KDSS warning lights and degraded handling.
Common Symptoms
KDSS warning light illuminated
Excessive body roll in corners
Hydraulic fluid leak under vehicle
Clunking noise from stabilizer bar area
Vehicle feels wallowy over bumps
How to Fix
Inspect KDSS hydraulic lines for leaks (most common at fittings and where lines route near heat sources). Replace leaking KDSS cylinders (Toyota 48875-60011 front, 48885-60011 rear). Accumulator replacement if pressure is lost. Some owners delete the KDSS system and install conventional sway bars for off-road simplicity, though this reduces on-road handling.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 48876-60022 genuine front KDSS stabilizer-control cylinder
front hydraulic-cylinder replacement after the leak or internal fault is isolated Fitment/availability: 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser 200-series KDSS front cylinder; replaces 48876-60020 and 48876-60021, with VIN confirmation required Fi…
Toyota 48886-60022 genuine rear KDSS stabilizer-control cylinder
rear hydraulic-cylinder replacement after the rear cylinder is proven faulty Fitment/availability: 2008-2011 and 2013-2021 U.S.-catalog Land Cruiser 5.7L rear KDSS cylinder; replaces 48885-60020, 48886-60020 and 48886-60021; confirm the …
Toyota 48006-60024 genuine KDSS control housing with accumulator
accumulator/control housing replacement only after pressure diagnosis rules out cylinders and lines Fitment/availability: 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser KDSS control-housing/accumulator branch; replaces 48006-60020 through 48006-60023 and…
High Confidence670 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2026Reviewed Feb 2026
Toyota issued a safety recall for certain 2024-2025 Land Cruiser vehicles because the front brake hoses can contact the wheels or suspension components due to assembly/clearance issues. Over time this can damage the hose, leading to a brake fluid leak and reduced braking performance. Owners may not notice a problem until warning lights appear or pedal feel changes.
Common Symptoms
Brake warning light
Soft or sinking brake pedal
Visible brake fluid leak near front wheel
Reduced braking performance
Grinding or rubbing noise at full steering lock
How to Fix
Inspect both front brake hoses for chafing, witness marks, or seepage and verify routing/clearance at full steering lock and suspension travel. The recall remedy is dealer replacement or correction of the affected brake hose/components and confirmation that no fluid loss or air remains in the hydraulic system. If a leak is present, the system should be repaired and fully bled before driving.
Owner tips & cautions
TipIf you want to inspect at home, use a bright inspection light and check hose clearance at full left/right lock.
The FJ40's factory four-wheel drum brakes are widely regarded as old technology that is inadequate for modern roads, larger tires, and confident off-road descents. Drums are high-maintenance (constant shoe and adjuster fiddling to keep them performing), fade badly on long downhill runs, and grab unevenly when wet after a water crossing. Worse, pre-1968 FJ40s use a SINGLE-circuit master cylinder — one leak anywhere in the system means total brake loss with no backup. The wheel cylinders, hoses and master are also commonly seized or weeping after decades of sitting.
Common Symptoms
Long pedal travel and poor, fade-prone stopping
Brakes pull or grab unevenly, especially when wet
Constant manual adjustment needed to keep pedal up
Seized wheel cylinders / frozen adjusters after storage
Total brake loss risk on single-circuit pre-'68 cars
How to Fix
The standard restoration upgrade is a front (or full four-wheel) disc-brake conversion. Well-proven kits from JTOutfitters, Cruiser Corps, Manafre and Specter swap the front drums for discs, and rear kits commonly adapt affordable mid-'80s GM Monte Carlo calipers. Pair the discs with the correct later-model brake booster (the trick is grabbing the complete later pedal box so the booster bolts up) and, on early trucks, convert the single-circuit system to a DUAL-circuit master cylinder with re-plumbed lines so a single failure can't kill all braking. Finish with stainless flex lines and a fresh proportioning valve for balanced, fade-resistant stopping.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
JTOutfitters FDBKIT870975 front disc-brake conversion kit
front vented-rotor, loaded-caliper, bracket, hose and hardware conversion for the specified drum axle Fitment/availability: Designed for August 1970-September 1975 FJ40/FJ55 drum-brake axles; pre-July-1970 trucks require 9-to-10 mm line …
JTOutfitters SUPERDISCKIT-1 four-wheel disc kit with master cylinder
front-and-rear conversion package with master cylinder when a qualified builder validates complete-system balance and parking brake Fitment/availability: Designed for August 1970-September 1975 FJ40/FJ55; earlier trucks still require dua…
The factory FJ40 cooling system was marginal when new and is badly outmatched today, especially in hot climates, in traffic, or after an engine rebuild. The stock 2- or 3-core radiator simply doesn't have enough surface area to keep the long, torquey F/2F six cool, and the engine-driven flex fan is small and inefficient. Trucks that have sat for years frequently develop blocked water jackets and a silted/scaled radiator core, which compounds the problem so the engine only overheats once ambient temps climb. A failed thermostat, a tired water pump, or air trapped during refill (the system needs proper bleeding) round out the common causes. Chronic overheating risks warped heads and cracked blocks on these irreplaceable engines.
Common Symptoms
Temp gauge climbing in traffic, on grades, or in hot weather
Overheats only when ambient temperature is high (blocked jackets)
Coolant loss, weeping water pump, or steam from the cap
Boil-over after a long highway pull
Runs cool on the move but heats up the moment it stops
How to Fix
The community bulletproofing recipe: fit a high-capacity aftermarket aluminum radiator (3- or 4-core, often a CSF or Wizard Cooling unit), add a proper full radiator SHROUD (the single biggest free improvement to airflow), and replace the old flex fan with a quality fan clutch or a high-flow electric fan setup. Run a new high-flow water pump and a correct-temp thermostat with a fresh O-ring/seal, then back-flush or rod-out the block water jackets if the truck sat. Always bleed the system fully on refill. Many restorers also delete chronic air pockets with a proper fill/bleed procedure and keep a 50/50 coolant mix with a quality cap that holds rated pressure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 16400-61020 genuine radiator assembly, superseded to 16400-49356
stock-configuration radiator replacement when pressure/flow inspection proves the original radiator leaks or is restricted Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1975-1984 Land Cruiser F/2F branch within this issue; seller also lists B/3B c…
Like most vehicles of the era, the Land Cruiser's factory radiator uses plastic end tanks crimped to an aluminum core. With age and heat cycling the plastic becomes brittle and cracks, and on these trucks the leak very commonly originates near the rectangular boss on the top tank where the part number is stamped. It affects both the 80-series and the early 100-series and often appears around 80,000-100,000 miles; owners frequently report the tank 'suddenly lets go' rather than showing a slow drip first, which risks an overheat that can then damage the head gasket. A failing fan clutch (another common 80-series item) compounds the overheat risk. This makes a proactive radiator replacement a common preventive step on any high-mileage example.
Common Symptoms
Overheating, especially on hills or in traffic
Visible crack/leak at top radiator tank near part-number boss
Coolant loss and low-coolant warnings
Steam from radiator area
How to Fix
Replace the radiator (OEM/Denso or a quality all-metal aftermarket unit), and refresh the thermostat, upper/lower hoses and coolant while access is open. Inspect the fan clutch at the same time. Given the head-gasket downstream risk, many owners replace the radiator preventively rather than waiting for the tank to split.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 16400-66040 genuine radiator assembly
early/mid 80-series radiator replacement after a leak, restriction or tank/crimp failure is confirmed Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed 1992-1996 Land Cruiser 3F-E 4.0L or 1FZ-FE 4.5L branch; production and transmission-cooler configur…
late 80-series radiator branch Fitment/availability: 1995-1997 Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE 4.5L FZJ80 branch; replaces 16400-66080 and still requires VIN confirmation where catalog years overlap 16400-66040 Fitment/availability: Live direct prod…
Toyota 16400-50210 genuine radiator assembly, superseded to 16400-50360
early 100-series radiator branch, not an 80-series part Fitment/availability: 1998-1999 Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE 4.7L 100-series within this issue; seller catalog continues the superseded assembly through 2003 Fitment/availability: Live direc…
The 80-series' 4.5L 1FZ-FE inline-six routes a short (~100mm, 5/8in) heater hose at the LH rear corner of the cylinder head, buried beneath the intake manifold/throttle body plumbing, that owners nicknamed the 'Pesky Heater Hose' (PHH). After decades of heat cycling the OEM rubber hardens, cracks, and weeps coolant onto the hot engine where it can flash off as steam, so the truck slowly loses coolant with no obvious puddle. Documented failures cluster anywhere from roughly 60,000 to 180,000 miles and, because it hides under the intake, it is frequently missed until an overheat event. It is one of the single most discussed maintenance items in the 80-series enthusiast community.
Common Symptoms
Gradual unexplained coolant loss with no visible puddle
Sweet coolant smell / faint steam from engine bay
Low coolant warnings or heater running cool
Occasional overheating on long climbs
How to Fix
Replace the hidden hose (and ideally all the small under-intake heater hoses) as a set with a quality hose (Gates Green Stripe / Samco / HPS silicone) and constant-tension (Breeze) spring clamps rather than worm-gear clamps. Some owners run a longer bypass route that is far easier to service in future. Many owners do a full coolant-system refresh at the same time. Access is improved by removing the throttle body/upper intake plumbing. Because the hose is a known age-out item, replacement is treated as preventive maintenance on any high-mileage 80-series.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
HPS 57-1344 silicone engine-bay heater/coolant hose kit with clamps
engine-bay heater-hose set including the under-intake branch after leak localization Fitment/availability: 1992-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80 4.5L 1FZ-FE without rear heater; confirm vehicle heater configuration before purchase Fitment/a…
The FJ40 uses a solid front axle with closed 'birfield' constant-velocity joints inside steering knuckles that pivot on trunnion (king-pin) bearings. These knuckle bearings carry a large share of the vehicle's weight and take constant abuse, so over decades the races wear a groove in the straight-ahead position and the birfields wear on one loaded face. The result is steering that no longer self-centers, clicks/clunks on full lock, and front-end vibration. Compounding it, the knuckle inner seals/felt wipers leak gear oil and let grit in, which accelerates wear and contaminates the birf grease. Neglected, a worn birf can eventually crack a cage or shed a ball off-road.
Common Symptoms
Steering won't return to center; 'detent' clicks turning lock to lock
Clunk/click from the front hubs at full steering lock
Gear oil leaking from the knuckle balls / wet inner fender
Front-end vibration or wander
Grease contamination found at knuckle teardown
How to Fix
The proven fix is a full front-axle knuckle overhaul: disassemble the knuckles, replace all four Koyo trunnion/knuckle bearings and races as a set (they wear evenly, so do them together), re-shim the king-pin preload to spec, and install a complete knuckle rebuild kit (inner axle seals, felt wipers, gaskets, lock washers). A clever bulletproofing trick veterans use is to SWAP the birfields side-to-side so the worn face is unloaded, extending their life, and to repack with proper moly birfield grease. For hard use, heavy-duty (Marlin Crawler) inner seals keep contamination out so the rebuild lasts.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
drum-brake branch seals, gaskets, wipers, shims, lock washers and Japanese Koyo/Nachi trunnion bearings Fitment/availability: March 1969 through September 1975 FJ40/FJ55 with drum brakes; one kit services the axle Fitment/availability: L…
disc-brake axle bearing/seal service kit after joint and housing inspection Fitment/availability: 1976-1984 disc-brake FJ40; one kit services both sides and includes Nachi trunnion bearings, Koyo wheel bearings, seals and wipers Fitment/…
The center differential lock on the Land Cruiser uses an electric vacuum actuator to engage and disengage the locking mechanism. The actuator motor fails, the vacuum lines crack and leak, or the shift fork inside the transfer case wears, preventing the center diff lock from engaging or disengaging properly. A stuck center diff lock can leave the vehicle in permanently locked mode (causing binding and tire wear on pavement) or unable to lock (reducing off-road capability). The dashboard indicator light may flash or show incorrect lock status.
Common Symptoms
Center diff lock will not engage when button is pressed
Center diff lock indicator light flashing or not illuminating
Diff lock engaged but will not disengage
Clicking noise from transfer case area when pressing lock button
Binding or hopping sensation in turns (stuck in locked mode)
Reduced off-road traction (unable to lock)
How to Fix
Diagnose by checking the vacuum lines to the actuator for cracks and leaks (replace cracked lines with silicone vacuum hose, $10-$20). If vacuum is reaching the actuator but the diff does not lock, the actuator motor has failed ($200-$500 for parts, $300-$500 labor). In some cases, the transfer case shift fork is worn and requires transfer case disassembly ($800-$1,500 labor). Test the center diff lock regularly (monthly) to keep the mechanism exercised — Land Cruisers that never use the diff lock are more prone to actuator seizure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Toyota 36410-60060 genuine transfer-shift actuator
early 100-series electric transfer actuator after circuit and mechanical diagnosis Fitment/availability: VIN-confirmed early 1998 through March 2001 Land Cruiser 100-series branch; seller summary spans 1998-2002, so production date contr…
Toyota 36410-60061 genuine transfer-shift actuator
later 100-series actuator only when the existing label/catalog matches Fitment/availability: VIN- and production-date-confirmed March 2001-2007 Land Cruiser 100-series branch Fitment/availability: Live direct product page showing Add to …
Toyota 36410-60112 genuine transfer-shift actuator
green-mark/associated early 200-series branch after diagnosis Fitment/availability: VIN-, market-, color-mark- and production-date-confirmed 2008-2011 Land Cruiser 200-series branch; replaces 36410-60111 Fitment/availability: Live direct…
Toyota 36410-60113 genuine transfer-shift actuator
later 200-series actuator branch after exact label and market confirmation Fitment/availability: VIN- and market-confirmed late-2010 through 2021 Land Cruiser 200-series standard branch; 36410-60120 covers several regional specifications…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipExercise the center diff lock monthly — engage it on dirt or gravel at low speed, drive 50 feet, then disengage. Actuators that sit unused for years are far more likely to seize. Use it or lose it.
The 80-series uses a solid front axle with full-time 4WD, so the front birfield (Birfield-type CV) joints and steering knuckles are under constant load and require periodic service that many owners skip. Toyota specifies repacking the birfields/knuckles roughly every ~90,000 miles (with knuckle grease/wheel-bearing intervals in between). When neglected, symptoms include clicking/knocking on tight turns, grease slung on the inside of the wheels, and leaking inner axle/knuckle seals that let gear oil and grease mix and escape. A common servicing error is pumping grease into the square check plug (a level-check plug only), which never reaches the actual joint. Fast-wearing or repeatedly leaking inner seals can also indicate a bent/warped front axle housing. A pre-April-1994 vs later drive-plate thickness change means early and late birfields are not freely interchangeable.
Common Symptoms
Clicking or knocking during tight low-speed turns
Grease flung onto inner wheel/tire
Gear oil / grease leaking from front knuckles
Front-end vibration or play
How to Fix
Perform a full front axle 'knuckle rebuild': disassemble the knuckles, clean and inspect birfields, install new inner axle seals, wiper (felt) seals, knuckle bearings and gaskets, and repack birfields and knuckles with the correct moly grease. Swapping birfields side-to-side extends their life since they wear on one side. Address a warped housing if seals wear abnormally fast, and use the correct-era birfields when replacing. Many owners DIY this; a shop rebuild of both sides is straightforward but labor-intensive.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Sumo Gear FA9097 80-series front knuckle rebuild kit
both-side knuckle bearings, inner seals, wipers, gaskets, retainers, shims and lock washers for the complete service Fitment/availability: January 1990-January 1998 80/81-series Land Cruiser and LX450; one kit per vehicle, with optional …
Multiple owners of the new U.S.-market 2024+ Land Cruiser have reported weak 12-volt batteries, repeated jump-starts, or complete no-start conditions after the vehicle sits for relatively short periods. Reports often mention telematics, accessory modules, or software-related parasitic draw behavior rather than a single failed starter or alternator. The issue is especially frustrating on low-mileage vehicles and can trigger a cascade of warning messages when voltage drops.
Common Symptoms
Dead battery after sitting overnight or a few days
Clicking or no crank
Multiple warning lights on startup
Need for repeated jump-starts
Low voltage messages in app or cluster
How to Fix
Perform a battery state-of-health test and a parasitic draw test after all modules time out, then inspect for software updates or TSB guidance related to telematics/body control modules. Replace any battery that has been deeply discharged multiple times, because AGM batteries often lose capacity quickly after repeated low-voltage events. If accessories were added, isolate them before condemning factory modules.
What you need to diagnose it
The fix here starts with a test, not a part — which repair you need depends on what the test finds.This issue involves U codes, which a basic engine-code reader cannot see.At least one code uses a manufacturer-specific format. No scanner recommendation is shown because family-level coverage cannot prove it can read that code.
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Testing and isolating the fault is DIY work. Replacing or reprogramming a control module is not — most are VIN-programmed, so a new one does nothing until a shop codes it to your car. Check for an open recall or service bulletin before buying anything.
Owner tips & cautions
TipIf the vehicle sits often, owners commonly use a smart AGM-compatible maintainer to prevent deep discharge.
The earliest FJ40s left the factory with a low-output generator (and on some markets a 6-volt or externally-regulated system), and even the later factory alternators are only rated around 38–55 amps. That is nowhere near enough once you add electric cooling fans, modern lighting, a winch, or accessories — the result is dim lights, a slowly drained battery and a cooked, brittle decades-old wiring harness. The stock harness was designed around the small factory alternator, so simply bolting on a high-amp unit and feeding it through the original wiring overloads and overheats the OEM harness. Old bullet connectors, ground points and the external regulator are common no-start and flicker culprits.
Common Symptoms
Dim headlights, especially at idle
Battery goes flat or won't hold charge
Charge/ammeter reads low or erratic
Melted or brittle, cracking wiring insulation
Intermittent no-start / flickering gauges from bad grounds
How to Fix
Restorers convert to a modern internally-regulated alternator — either an upgraded Toyota internal-regulator unit (e.g. the 55A 27020-61071 family) or a higher-output GM Delco (CS130, up to ~105A) on a bracket adapter. The key bulletproofing detail the forums stress: run the high-output alternator's main charge wire DIRECTLY to the battery with appropriately sized cable rather than back through the stock harness, and wire the alternator's sense terminal to the fuse block so it compensates for voltage drop (brighter lights, better charge). Refresh grounds, replace crusty bullet connectors, and on 6-volt trucks do a full 12-volt conversion. A new reproduction harness is the gold-standard fix for a brittle original.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
pre-terminated connector, boot, ground terminal and splice materials for the specific 55A Toyota alternator conversion Fitment/availability: Early FJ40 conversion using the Toyota 27020-61071-family 1979-1987 55A internally regulated alt…
repair heat-damaged, brittle or missing alternator sub-harness wiring without treating every truck as one connector style Fitment/availability: ARH1 for 1967-1977 square three-terminal; ARH2 for late-1977 through December 1978 round thre…
whole-vehicle rewire branch only when the original harness is broadly brittle or modified beyond safe localized repair Fitment/availability: 1963-1974 40-series restoration/custom rewire; not an OEM direct replacement, has no ground or s…
Owners have widely reported infotainment instability on the latest Land Cruiser, including frozen head units, black screens, failed boot-ups, intermittent backup camera display, and wireless smartphone projection disconnects. These issues are usually software-related and may be intermittent, making them difficult to reproduce at the dealer. In some cases, the problem also affects audio, navigation, or vehicle settings access.
Common Symptoms
Infotainment screen freezes
Black or blank display
Wireless CarPlay disconnects
Android Auto connection drops
Backup camera image missing or delayed
Audio system rebooting
How to Fix
Check for multimedia software updates and apply any available head-unit firmware revisions before replacing hardware. If the issue persists, document the exact failure mode with photos/video and have the dealer inspect the head unit, USB hub, and camera communication network. A hard reset may temporarily restore operation, but recurring failures usually need software or module replacement.
Owner tips & cautions
TipUse a known-good USB-C cable when troubleshooting projection issues, even if the problem seems wireless.
Owners of the 300-series Land Cruiser and closely related TNGA-F Toyota/Lexus models have reported delayed engagement, low-speed hesitation, or abrupt 10-speed automatic shifts, especially when cold or during rolling stops. Toyota service literature for related powertrain calibration concerns points to software logic rather than hard-part failure in many cases. Complaints typically describe inconsistent throttle response paired with a sudden downshift or lurch.
Common Symptoms
Delayed drive engagement
Harsh 1-2 or 2-1 shift
Lurch when reapplying throttle
Hesitation from a rolling stop
Inconsistent shift timing when cold
How to Fix
Scan for transmission and engine codes, confirm fluid condition, and road-test under the same low-speed conditions that trigger the complaint. Dealers typically check for updated ECM/TCM calibration files and perform a software reflash/adaptive reset before considering valve body or internal transmission work. If symptoms persist after calibration, line pressure and shift solenoid operation should be evaluated.
Early FJ40s came with the column- or floor-shift 3-speed manual, which restorers and off-roaders consider the drivetrain's weak link. It has a big gap between gears (no usable highway/cruising ratio that keeps the engine in its sweet spot), making the truck feel under-geared and busy at modern road speeds. The 3-speed's transfer-case casting is also regarded as more brittle than the later 4-speed's stronger aluminum case, and worn synchros/baulk rings make it crunch into gear. While the matching 3-speed t-case actually offers a deeper 2.31:1 low range, the on-road drivability and durability of the 3-speed is the limiting factor for a usable restored truck.
Common Symptoms
Engine buzzing/under-geared at highway speed
Wide, awkward gap between gear ratios
Grinding or crunching into gear (worn synchros)
Jumping out of gear on overrun
Cracked/brittle 3-speed transfer-case casting
How to Fix
The classic, well-documented upgrade is the H42 4-speed swap. The 1975–79 (10/73–7/80) H42 4-speed bolts up to the earlier transfer case, giving a proper road gear plus better ratios. The job needs a 4-speed bellhousing, the correct transmission output gear, an output bearing, and the 4-speed shift linkage/front-output shift fork — kits (e.g. CruiserParts' 3-to-4-speed conversion) bundle the parts. Builders deliberately choose the EARLY H42 (pre-8/80) because the later 19-spline output and bolt pattern won't mate to the one-piece transfer case. If keeping the 3-speed, restorers at minimum rebuild it with fresh synchros and handle the brittle case carefully.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
complete used four-speed conversion including transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, conversion gear/bearing, shifters, flanges, driveshafts, gaskets and hardware Fitment/availability: FJ40 currently equipped with a factory three-speed; se…
Vague, wandering 'death-wiggle' steering is one of the most universal FJ40 complaints. The factory recirculating-ball steering box wears in its sector shaft and worm over decades, develops play and starts to leak, while the surrounding linkage — tie-rod ends, relay (drag) link ends, the under-hood steering U-joints, and the spring bushings — also wears and stacks up slop. The dangerous DIY mistake the forums warn against is simply cranking the box's adjustment screw to remove all free play: that binds the gear on-center and rapidly destroys the sector shaft, killing the box. Manual-steering early trucks feel especially heavy and imprecise with this wear.
Common Symptoms
Lots of steering-wheel free play / vehicle wanders
Clunk or shimmy ('death wobble') over bumps
Gear-oil leak from the steering box
Heavy, imprecise effort on manual-steer trucks
Steering tightens or binds on-center if over-adjusted
How to Fix
The right restoration approach is to renew the whole steering chain, not just chase the box: replace all tie-rod and relay-rod ends, the steering U-joints, and the spring bushings first, then rebuild or replace the steering box with a fresh seal kit and CORRECTLY shimmed on-center lash (snug at center, not bound). Many restorers upgrade to a later FJ40 factory power-steering box (1979–84) for far better feel, or fit a modern EZ Electric Power Steering kit (Koyo/NSK components) that bolts to the column for effortless, precise steering. A correctly set, rebuilt box plus tight linkage transforms the drive.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
JTOutfitters FJ40TREKIT complete tie-rod and relay-rod end kit
complete steering-linkage end renewal when play is measured at the joints Fitment/availability: FJ40/FJ45/FJ55 linkage except 1963-1967 FJ45LV; confirm left-hand-drive linkage and all five joint positions before installation Fitment/avai…
City Racer 45230-36010-equivalent steering coupling/rag joint
replace a cracked, delaminated or loose column rag joint after confirming the joint is a source of play Fitment/availability: September 1972 and later FJ40/FJ45/FJ55 with the matching two-piece column coupling Fitment/availability: Live …
The dashboard on 100-series Land Cruisers (1998-2007) develops extensive cracks from UV exposure and heat cycling, similar to the issue affecting other Toyota/Lexus models from this era. The top surface of the dashboard cracks and becomes sticky, particularly in hot climates. The cracking is widespread enough that finding a 100-series with an uncracked original dashboard is rare. The same issue affects the Lexus LX470, which shares the same dashboard. Toyota did not extend warranty coverage for Land Cruiser dashboards as they did for some other affected models.
Common Symptoms
Deep cracks on dashboard top surface
Dashboard material sticky or tacky to touch
Cracking spreading from center to edges over time
Dashboard surface rough and deteriorating
Glare from cracked reflective dashboard surface
How to Fix
Dashboard replacement with a new OEM unit costs $2,000-$4,000 installed and is rarely worth the expense on these vehicles. The most popular solution is a Coverlay molded dashboard cover ($200-$350), which is a rigid ABS plastic overlay that covers the cracks and looks nearly factory. DashMat fabric covers ($50-$100) are a budget option. Some owners have had dashboards professionally recovered in leather or vinyl ($500-$1,500) at upholstery shops. Use a windshield sunshade when parked to slow further deterioration.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Dash Designs custom dashboard cover for 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
budget concealment and UV-protection path that preserves all airbag, vent and sensor openings Fitment/availability: 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser; select exact material, color and all option openings, and use the site's year selector for 1998…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Owner tips & cautions
TipCoverlay dash cover is the best value solution. It is a rigid molded piece that fits over your cracked dashboard and looks factory. Costs $250-$350 and installs in an hour. Every 100-series owner should have one.
Owners have reported Toyota Safety Sense warnings, unavailable adaptive cruise, and intermittent pre-collision or lane-keeping alerts when the radar or camera becomes obstructed by weather, road film, or dust. While some level of sensor blockage is expected, complaints indicate the system can become unavailable sooner than expected in real-world conditions, especially on dirty winter roads or off-pavement use. The result is nuisance warnings and loss of driver-assist features until the sensors clear.
Common Symptoms
Pre-Collision System unavailable message
Adaptive cruise control disabled
Lane tracing assist unavailable
Radar sensor blocked warning
Intermittent driver-assist shutdown in bad weather
How to Fix
Inspect and clean the front emblem/radar area and windshield camera zone, then check for alignment issues if warnings persist in clear conditions. Dealers can verify radar/camera calibration and inspect for software updates or mounting problems after minor impacts or windshield replacement. If the issue only occurs in severe weather, cleaning and preventive protection are usually the main remedies.
Owner tips & cautions
TipOwners in winter climates recommend keeping a microfiber towel in the vehicle to wipe the front emblem and camera area during fuel stops.
What is the 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Frame Rust and Corrosion?
100 Series Land Cruisers (J100) develop significant frame rust in salt-belt regions, particularly along the rear frame rails, crossmembers, and body mounts. Despite the vehicle's legendary reliability, frame corrosion is the primary structural concern for high-mileage examples. Repairs typically run $300-$8,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser AHC (Active Height Control) Suspension Failure?
The 200 Series Land Cruiser's AHC hydraulic suspension system develops leaks, pump failures, and height sensor issues. Accumulators lose nitrogen charge, causing a harsh ride. The AHC pump can fail, leaving the vehicle stuck at one height. Repairs are expensive due to specialized… Repairs typically run $800-$5,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Timing Belt Tensioner and Water Pump Failure (2UZ-FE)?
The 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8 uses a timing belt that must be replaced at 90,000-mile intervals. The hydraulic timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys are critical failure points — if the tensioner fails, the timing belt can slip or break, potentially causing valve-to-piston contact on this… Repairs typically run $1,000-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2024-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser Front Brake Hose Interference and Potential Fluid Leak?
Toyota issued a safety recall for certain 2024-2025 Land Cruiser vehicles because the front brake hoses can contact the wheels or suspension components due to assembly/clearance issues. Over time this can damage the hose, leading to a brake fluid leak and reduced braking performa… Repairs typically run $0-$800. Severity: high.
What is the 1960-1980 Toyota Land Cruiser Inadequate Drum Brakes (Single-Circuit Early Cars)?
The FJ40's factory four-wheel drum brakes are widely regarded as old technology that is inadequate for modern roads, larger tires, and confident off-road descents. Drums are high-maintenance (constant shoe and adjuster fiddling to keep them performing), fade badly on long downhil… Repairs typically run $600-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1960-1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Body Tub & Quarter-Panel Rust (Rockers, Floors, Wheel Arches, Cowl)?
Rust is the single biggest enemy of an FJ40 restoration and follows a predictable pattern across every year of the run. The thin factory steel and lack of cavity protection let water collect in the rear quarter panels (the lower 'dogleg' ahead of the rear arch), the rocker panels… Repairs typically run $1,500-$12,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1990-1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Body and frame rust: rear quarter panels, rockers, and frame rails?
In salt-belt and coastal climates, corrosion is the primary killer of these otherwise-durable trucks. The rear quarter panels are a notorious rot spot: the rear wheel-arch extension acts as a bucket that traps wet mud and road salt, and water intrusion past the rear side-window a… Repairs typically run $500-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 1993-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE head gasket failure (pre-1998 design)?
The 4.5L 1FZ-FE's original head gasket design was prone to leaking between coolant passages, and the earlier 80-series years are the most affected. Any overheating event dramatically accelerates failure, and a factory 'center-bias' coolant temp gauge let many owners run near or o… Repairs typically run $1,500-$3,500. Severity: high.
What is the 1960-1984 Toyota Land Cruiser Undersized Cooling System — F/2F Overheating?
The factory FJ40 cooling system was marginal when new and is badly outmatched today, especially in hot climates, in traffic, or after an engine rebuild. The stock 2- or 3-core radiator simply doesn't have enough surface area to keep the long, torquey F/2F six cool, and the engine… Repairs typically run $400-$1,800. Severity: high.
What is the 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Front Lower Ball Joint Wear and Separation Risk (100 Series)?
The 1998-2007 100 Series Land Cruiser (J100) develops lower ball joint wear, particularly on vehicles used for off-roading or carrying heavy loads. The sealed ball joints cannot be greased and wear out over time. Toyota does not sell the ball joints separately from the lower cont… Repairs typically run $300-$1,200. Severity: high.
What is the 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser KDSS (Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System) Hydraulic Leaks?
The KDSS system uses hydraulic cylinders connected to the front and rear stabilizer bars to improve both on-road handling and off-road articulation. The hydraulic lines, cylinders, and accumulator develop leaks over time, causing KDSS warning lights and degraded handling. Repairs typically run $500-$3,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure (200 Series)?
The secondary air injection system on the 200 Series Land Cruiser (3UR-FE and later engines) fails due to moisture intrusion and corrosion of the air switching valves and pump motor. The system pumps air into the exhaust manifold during cold starts to reduce emissions. When it fa… Repairs typically run $300-$1,800. Severity: medium.
What is the 1960-1984 Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle Knuckle / Birfield & Trunnion Bearing Wear?
The FJ40 uses a solid front axle with closed 'birfield' constant-velocity joints inside steering knuckles that pivot on trunnion (king-pin) bearings. These knuckle bearings carry a large share of the vehicle's weight and take constant abuse, so over decades the races wear a groov… Repairs typically run $400-$1,600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2024-2025 Toyota Land Cruiser 12-Volt Battery Drain and No-Start After Short Parking Periods?
Multiple owners of the new U.S.-market 2024+ Land Cruiser have reported weak 12-volt batteries, repeated jump-starts, or complete no-start conditions after the vehicle sits for relatively short periods. Reports often mention telematics, accessory modules, or software-related para… Repairs typically run $250-$900. Severity: medium.
What is the 1998-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Center Differential Lock Actuator Failure?
The center differential lock on the Land Cruiser uses an electric vacuum actuator to engage and disengage the locking mechanism. The actuator motor fails, the vacuum lines crack and leak, or the shift fork inside the transfer case wears, preventing the center diff lock from engag… Repairs typically run $50-$2,000. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1999 Toyota Land Cruiser OEM radiator plastic end-tank cracking?
Like most vehicles of the era, the Land Cruiser's factory radiator uses plastic end tanks crimped to an aluminum core. With age and heat cycling the plastic becomes brittle and cracks, and on these trucks the leak very commonly originates near the rectangular boss on the top tank… Repairs typically run $300-$800. Severity: medium.
What is the 1960-1984 Toyota Land Cruiser Sloppy Recirculating-Ball Steering Box & Worn Linkage?
Vague, wandering 'death-wiggle' steering is one of the most universal FJ40 complaints. The factory recirculating-ball steering box wears in its sector shaft and worm over decades, develops play and starts to leak, while the surrounding linkage — tie-rod ends, relay (drag) link en… Repairs typically run $300-$2,000. Severity: medium.
What is the 2022-2023 Toyota Land Cruiser Transmission Hesitation or Harsh Shift Behavior Requiring ECM/TCM Calibration Update?
Owners of the 300-series Land Cruiser and closely related TNGA-F Toyota/Lexus models have reported delayed engagement, low-speed hesitation, or abrupt 10-speed automatic shifts, especially when cold or during rolling stops. Toyota service literature for related powertrain calibra… Repairs typically run $0-$1,800. Severity: medium.
What is the 1990-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Front axle knuckle service neglect / birfield wear and knuckle seal leaks?
The 80-series uses a solid front axle with full-time 4WD, so the front birfield (Birfield-type CV) joints and steering knuckles are under constant load and require periodic service that many owners skip. Toyota specifies repacking the birfields/knuckles roughly every ~90,000 mile… Repairs typically run $300-$1,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 1993-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE "Pesky Heater Hose" (PHH) coolant leak under the intake?
The 80-series' 4.5L 1FZ-FE inline-six routes a short (~100mm, 5/8in) heater hose at the LH rear corner of the cylinder head, buried beneath the intake manifold/throttle body plumbing, that owners nicknamed the 'Pesky Heater Hose' (PHH). After decades of heat cycling the OEM rubbe… Repairs typically run $50-$400. Severity: medium.
