2022 Dodge Challenger Problems: 20 Known Issues

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the IHI twin-screw supercharger fitted to the 6.2L supercharged HEMI in the Challenger SRT Hellcat, Redeye, and Demon is prone to internal bearing failure, typically heard first as a rising whine, growl, or whir from the front of the engine that gets louder with RPM and engine warmth. The root cause is a design margin problem: from the factory the supercharger uses Nachi 6204 (front snout, behind the pulley) and 6203 (rear snout, ahead of the male coupling) bearings fitted with full-contact (NSE) rubber seals rated for only roughly 10,000-12,000 RPM. The male rotor and snout shaft, however, can spin to around 25,000 RPM at the 6,200 RPM redline. The full-contact seals create friction and heat that cooks the factory Mobil Polyrex EM grease over time; once the grease breaks down the bearing wears, grows loud, and can eventually seize or shed material into the blower. Owners who fit a smaller (overdrive) upper pulley to make more boost spin the snout even faster and dramatically accelerate failure, so modified cars are over-represented in failure reports, but bone-stock cars fail too. Failures have been documented from very low mileage (one 2019 Redeye reported bearing failure at roughly 2,000 miles; another stock car at about 1,700 miles). Because the IHI unit integrates the blower, intake manifold, and the air-to-water charge cooler in one assembly, Dodge's only factory remedy is replacing the entire supercharger, which is why this is a high-cost, high-anxiety issue in the Hellcat/Redeye/Demon community with multiple dedicated multi-page forum threads. There is no OBD-II diagnostic trouble code for this; it is a mechanical wear failure diagnosed by sound, so a clean scan tool does not rule it out.

On the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 6.4L 392 HEMI V8 (Apache), the production valve springs on the 6.4L 392 HEMI can crack or fracture. A weakened spring can cause a persistent single-cylinder misfire that remains after plug, coil, or injector swaps; a complete fracture can let the valve contact the piston and cause major cylinder-head or engine damage. High-RPM and modified/cammed use changes valvetrain load, but the correct replacement spring must be selected from the camshaft's lift and required installed/open pressures rather than from boost alone.

On the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 3.6L Pentastar V6, the plastic oil filter housing warps and cracks from heat cycling, causing oil leaks from front of engine near oil filter. In severe cases coolant and oil can mix. Common across all Pentastar 3.6L vehicles (Challenger, Charger, 300, Jeep, Ram).

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger 3.6L Pentastar V6, the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine can develop a ticking noise from worn rocker arms. Unlike the HEMI MDS tick, this is caused by the roller follower rocker arms wearing out prematurely. The issue typically appears between 50,000-100,000 miles and is more common on 2011-2013 engines but can occur on later models.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, exhaust manifold bolts break due to thermal cycling causing the bolts to become brittle and snap, especially on the passenger side. Dissimilar metals (iron manifold, aluminum head) accelerate the process. Creates a ticking noise at cold startup. Common across all HEMI-powered LX/LC platform vehicles.

On the 2009-2023 Dodge Challenger, on the Gen-III Hemi V8 (5.7L VVT from 2009 on, and the 6.4L/392 across its run), engine oil is cooled by a coolant-fed oil cooler integrated into the oil-filter adapter housing that sits in the engine valley, beneath the intake manifold. The cooler is a coolant-to-oil heat exchanger sealed to the adapter and the block by O-ring-style gaskets. As these seals age and harden, the assembly weeps oil externally (often appearing as oil seeping down the front/rear of the engine or pooling near the oil-filter area) and, because oil and engine coolant pass through adjacent passages, a failed internal seal can let the two fluids mix — milky/emulsified oil on the dipstick or oil contamination in the coolant. A documented aggravating cause is over-torquing the spin-on/cartridge oil filter or filter cap during oil changes, which can distort or crack the housing and its seals. Because the cooler is buried under the intake manifold, the repair is labor-intensive (intake manifold removal and a full coolant drain/refill), which is what pushes the bill far above a simple gasket job. This is the V8 oil-cooler/adapter failure and is distinct from the Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar V6 plastic oil-filter-housing leak — different engine family, different part, different failure mode and cost.

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the EPS rack assembly can fail suddenly, causing complete loss of steering assist while driving. Circuit board contamination in the EPS module causes short circuit. Corrosion in rack assembly compounds the issue. Recalls S19 (NHTSA 16V-167) and VB8 (NHTSA 19V-812) cover some vehicles.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, one of the most widely reported Dodge Challenger complaints — the "infamous front-end clunk." Owners across the LX-platform (2008-2023) describe a clunk, pop, knock, or rattle from the front suspension on initial acceleration, light braking, low-speed turns, and especially over small bumps, expansion joints, driveways, and uneven pavement. It is a chassis/suspension wear-and-tolerance issue, not engine-specific, so it appears on every engine from the early 3.5L V6 through the 6.2L Supercharged Hellcat. The 2012 Dodge service manual itself lists the standard culprits for a front-end clunk/snap on turns: worn or loose tie-rod ends, worn or loose ball joints, worn or loose control-arm bushings, loose stabilizer (sway) bars, and loose crossmember bolts. In practice the single most common source is the stock front sway-bar end links: the nylon-lined joint develops play, and a known design weakness leaves a gap between the sway-bar mount hole and the link stud (the shoulder washer prevents the stud shoulder from seating against the bar), allowing the link to knock. Heat-damaged nylon from impact-gun installation accelerates the wear. Secondary contributors that develop with age/mileage are worn outer tie-rod ends (owners report play well beyond the ~0.002 in spec, e.g. 0.009 in), tired front control-arm bushings, and worn ball joints. The noise is annoying and a sign of worn steering/suspension components, but it is rarely a sudden safety failure — hence medium severity. It has very high DIY and parts-affiliate intent: end-link kits are cheap and a popular first fix.

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the rear driveshaft on high-powered Challengers can experience premature U-joint failure or driveshaft issues, especially under hard launches, drag racing, or with aftermarket power upgrades. The factory driveshaft may not handle repeated high-torque loads. Some owners report multiple failures within 50,000 miles.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a P0420 ("Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1") or P0430 ("Bank 2") check-engine light is one of the most common emissions codes on the Dodge Challenger, especially on higher-mileage V8 cars. The PCM sets the code when it compares the upstream (pre-cat) and downstream (post-cat) oxygen-sensor signals: if the downstream sensor begins to mimic the rapidly-switching upstream sensor instead of staying relatively flat, the computer concludes the converter is no longer storing/releasing oxygen efficiently. On the Challenger this code is frequently NOT a worn-out converter at all. The two most common upstream root causes are (1) an exhaust leak from broken exhaust-manifold bolts — the well-documented "HEMI tick" on the 5.7L and 6.4L V8s — which lets atmospheric oxygen into the exhaust stream and confuses the rear O2 sensor, and (2) a long-running misfire (worn plugs, failing coils, leaking injectors on the 3.6L Pentastar) that dumps raw fuel into the converter and physically destroys it over time. A failed downstream O2 sensor, contaminated converter (from an oil-cooler/oil-filter-housing leak on the Pentastar), or simply an aged/degraded cat round out the causes. Chrysler also issued software bulletins (TSB 18-021-12, superseded by 18-033-13) because early PCM calibration logic was overly sensitive and could trigger false P0420/P0430 codes — particularly in warm weather or on long highway drives — so a PCM reflash should be ruled out before any hardware is replaced. Because the converter sits in the federal/CARB emissions-warranty window for many of these cars, the diagnosis order matters a lot to the owner's wallet.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, the Dodge Challenger's evaporative emissions (EVAP) leak-detection device — the Evaporative System Integrity Module/Monitor (ESIM), the successor to Chrysler's older NVLD (Natural Vacuum Leak Detection) pump — is a very common failure point across the LX/LA platform (2008-2023). The ESIM is a mechanical, non-solenoid device (housing, two check valves/weights, a diaphragm, and a switch) bolted to the charcoal canister behind the rear passenger fender-well liner. It performs an engine-off non-intrusive test for small leaks and an engine-running test for medium/large leaks, and the PCM relies on it for ALL EVAP leak diagnostics. When the ESIM's diaphragm or switch fails, the PCM falsely concludes the sealed EVAP system is leaking and sets P0456 (small leak), P0455 (large leak), or a generic P0440, illuminating the check-engine light. Because the code description points to a leak, the part is repeatedly misdiagnosed: owners and shops replace the gas cap (sometimes multiple times), get a clean smoke test showing no actual leak, yet the code returns. Multiple forum threads document owners chasing this for months — replacing the gas cap, then the purge/canister valve — before the ESIM ("vapor leak detection pump") is finally identified as the real fault. One owner reported spending roughly $2,500 over repeated visits before the issue was resolved. In some cases the leak-detection pump was simply found unplugged behind the wheel-well liner.

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the ZF 8HP45/8HP70 8-speed automatic suffers from harsh downshifts (especially 2nd to 1st), rough upshifts with RPM spikes, and clunking when cold. Ferrous or aluminum debris in 3-4 shift pressure valves is the primary failure point. Valve body is the most common component needing replacement.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites: 1) Smart-glass / one-touch power window self-cycling — the single most-reported cause in NHTSA and CarComplaints/CarProblemZoo data (18+ "battery dead" reports concentrated on 2010-2014, plus 2018). A faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. Chrysler issued a recall on 2011 cars for a related concern, but owners of 2012+ report the same symptom with no recall. 2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) faults — the under-hood power/fuse-relay computer controls dozens of circuits and can keep a circuit "awake" or stick a relay closed, producing a steady ~1-2 A draw. TIPM failure is a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars. 3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. Owners report dealers pulling the radio fuse to confirm, then resolving it with a head-unit software re-flash (e.g., updating to 18.45.01) or radio replacement; multiple owners also report repeated radio/touchscreen failures on 2015-2017 cars. 4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit. 5) Alternator diode failure — a shorted rectifier diode lets current bleed backward through the alternator with the engine off; some owners also have a charging fault where the PCM voltage regulation is at fault, so a new alternator alone does not fix it. 6) Hellcat / supercharged charge-air-cooler (intercooler) auxiliary coolant pump not shutting off — on 2015+ supercharged cars the aux pump can fail to power down (often after coolant intrudes into the connector or a loose intake-box ground), running the pump and killing the battery in as little as 3 days; this typically also sets charge-air-cooler pump DTCs (P023B, U02A9). SRT models from 2018+ include a "Storage Mode" that reduces key-off draw and should be enabled when parking.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, dodge Challenger owners across the LC/LA platform (2008-2023) commonly report the A/C not blowing cold, blowing warm/weak, or one side of the cabin staying warm. The complaints split into two distinct failure clusters that share the same symptom. CLUSTER 1 - Refrigerant/AC-system side: Low refrigerant from slow leaks is the most-cited cause of weak or warm cooling. Owners also report A/C-system component failures including a failed expansion valve (multiple Scat Pack owners had the expansion valve replaced, several under warranty, which restored cold air), evaporator/condenser icing-up that an A/C shop resolved by evacuating the system, replacing the receiver/drier and recharging, A/C compressor failure, and condenser damage. A clogged or leaking evaporator never gets enough refrigerant to cool the air. A dirty cabin air filter reduces airflow (air is still cold, just weak). CLUSTER 2 - Blend-door / mode-door actuator side: This is the signature Challenger HVAC complaint. The dash-mounted plastic blend-door actuator strips its internal gear teeth and produces a repetitive clicking/tapping sound from behind the dash (often loudest when changing temperature or after start-up), the temperature gets stuck (heat stuck on, or A/C feels weak in hot climates because any leakage from the hot/heater side bleeds into the duct), and in dual-zone cars one side blows cold while the other blows warm. The Challenger uses multiple actuators: on the driver's side the upper unit is the blend/temperature actuator and the lower unit is the mode (vent/floor/defrost) door actuator; dual-zone Automatic Temperature Control cars add passenger-side actuator(s) for the second zone. The actuators are interchangeable across the positions. Forum consensus strongly favors genuine Mopar/OE actuators - aftermarket units are widely reported as DOA out of the box or failing within months. The blend door's plastic gear itself can also strip teeth or break, so an actuator swap does not always cure it. Affects the full LC generation (2008-2014) and the facelift cars (2015-2023) across all engines and trims; severity is medium - it is a comfort/seasonal issue, not safety-critical, but defrost loss can be a winter-visibility concern.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, dodge Challenger owners frequently report front brake "warping" that produces a noticeable pulsation through the brake pedal and a shimmy in the steering wheel under braking, often accompanied by faster-than-expected front pad wear. The complaint surfaces at surprisingly low mileage — CarComplaints documents reports beginning around 6,500 miles, with the 2012 model year's "Rotors Warped" category averaging failure at roughly 15,400 miles across 10 complaints (rated 7.6/10 "pretty bad"). The condition is recurring for many owners: one report describes warping at 4,000 miles, again at 15,000, and a third time by 23,000, while another required resurfacing every 4,000-5,000 miles. While owners describe it as "warped rotors," the technical root cause is usually one of two mechanisms, and often a combination: (1) genuine thermal distortion/excessive lateral runout of the rotor, and (2) uneven brake-pad material transfer (friction-material deposits) that builds up on part of the rotor face and creates a thickness variation the driver feels as pulsation. The Challenger is a heavy car (roughly 3,800-4,500+ lb depending on trim/engine), and that mass plus spirited or aggressive braking loads the front rotors hard, accelerating runout and uneven pad deposition. Contributing factors include hard braking from high speed, riding the brakes in traffic, improper/uneven lug-nut torque, a sticking caliper applying uneven pressure, worn wheel bearings, and — very commonly — improper pad bed-in (break-in) that seeds uneven deposits from the start. Brembo-equipped performance trims (SRT8/392/Scat Pack/Hellcat) are not immune and carry far higher parts cost. The issue is a comfort/serviceability and longevity concern rather than a sudden safety failure, hence MEDIUM severity, but it drives repeat brake service and strong owner intent to buy replacement rotors and pads.

On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the Dodge Challenger — especially HEMI-powered R/T, Scat Pack, and Hellcat trims — is one of the most-stolen vehicles in the United States, and its passive keyless-entry/push-button-start system is the reason. Thieves exploit several well-documented electronic attacks: (1) Relay amplification, where two people use signal-boosting devices to grab the key fob's signal from inside the owner's house and relay it to the car, unlocking and starting it while the real key never moves. (2) OBD-II key cloning, where a thief gains brief interior access (window punch / lock bypass), plugs a programming tool into the OBD port under the dash, and burns a brand-new fob to the car in minutes. (3) Under-dash hotwiring/bypass on older units. The Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI/IIHS) found the high-output Charger/Challenger HEMI and Hellcat cars top the most-stolen list for 2020-22; theft claims for the SRT Hellcat ran more than 60 times the average vehicle (about 25 claims per 1,000 insured vehicle-years), and even the standard HEMI was more than 20 times average. These cars have ranked in the top five most-stolen for over a decade because the powertrain is valuable, the security was easy to defeat, and stolen examples are quickly resold or stripped. This drives extremely high-intent "how do I keep my Challenger from getting stolen" search demand among owners.

On the 2009-2023 Dodge Challenger, the mechanical (belt-driven) water pump on HEMI-powered Challengers is a recurring weak point that can fail well before normal service life, with owners reporting failures across a very wide mileage band — some as early as ~5,800-7,000 miles, clusters around 18,000-25,000 miles, and others out past 45,000-60,000 miles. The OEM Mopar pump uses a plastic impeller pressed onto a sealed bearing-and-shaft assembly. The dominant failure mode is bearing wear: as the bearing develops play and roughness, the shaft seal weeps coolant (a telltale trail of dried/crusty glycol residue on the pump body, distinct from harmless minor weep-hole staining), and in worse cases the loose impeller rubs the inside of the timing-cover/block bore, shearing plastic vanes off the impeller. Shed plastic circulates into the cooling system while the now-degraded impeller stops moving coolant effectively, producing localized overheating that can escalate to engine damage. This is a distinct component and failure set from the separately documented OEM radiator cooling issue — same system, different part. Dodge's own DodgeGarage how-to acknowledges the inspection points (loose/rough bearing and seal-deposit trail), and many owners and some dealers treat it as a known HEMI weak spot. A common, well-regarded fix is replacing the OEM plastic-impeller pump with a metal-impeller aftermarket unit (e.g., Gates) rather than another identical OEM pump.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, challengers equipped with the optional power sunroof are a recurring subject of dedicated water-leak threads on the major owners' forums (ChallengerTalk, HellCat.org) and show up in TrueDelta body/integrity problem histories. The sunroof tray drains to four corner drain tubes (two front, two rear) that run down the A-pillars and rear pillars. Over time these tubes clog with pine needles, pollen, dirt and other road/yard debris, or a drain hose that was crimped/misrouted between the roof and a headliner support seals itself shut from heat cycling. When the drains can no longer carry the tray water away, it overflows and tracks along the headliner before dripping out the lowest point inside the cabin — most commonly the overhead console near the dome lights and HomeLink buttons, dribbling down onto the shifter plate (owners describe finding "half a cup" of water on the console). On some cars the leak is instead a failed or torn sunroof-glass weatherstrip that lets water past during rain or high-pressure car washes. Left unaddressed, the standing water can stain the headliner, soak the carpet/footwells, breed mildew, and reach interior electronics. It is a preventable maintenance/condition issue rather than a widespread defect, but it is a very common ownership question.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a widely reported cosmetic complaint on the LX-platform Challenger (2008-2023) is premature clear-coat failure: the clear layer blisters, lifts, and peels away from the underlying color coat. It most commonly starts at high-exposure, hard-to-cover areas — the leading edge of the hood (where it meets the nose/fascia seam), the matte/satin roof strip, fascia panel seams, and above the rocker panels. Owners describe the color on the roof strip darkening (going greenish or chalky) before the clear coat lifts, and flaking that begins at a panel edge and spreads. The root cause is a thin and soft factory clear coat (owners report roughly ~2 mils of clear, which is on the low side), combined with UV exposure and heat cycling that degrade adhesion over years. Black and other dark colors (Pitch Black, Brilliant Black Pearl) absorb more heat and UV and are the most frequently affected; owners and detailers note the clear is "too soft" and chips/marrs easily. This is purely a paint/appearance problem — it does not affect drivability, safety, or mechanical function, hence LOW severity. It is one of the most common 'Dodge Challenger paint problems' searches. Note: a manufacturer paint warranty (typically 3 years/36,000 miles for finish on these years) sometimes covers it if caught early and if the failure is judged a defect rather than wear; many owners report dealers declining coverage on older/out-of-warranty cars, calling it environmental wear. A relevant TSB also warns that partial (spot/blend) clear-coat repairs can themselves delaminate, so the correct repair is to re-clear or repaint the entire affected panel.

On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, many Challenger owners report that the fuel tank is hard to fill and the gas pump nozzle clicks off (shuts off) repeatedly before the tank is full, often with fuel backing up or spitting out of the filler neck. RepairPal lists this as one of the most-reported Challenger problems, with a dedicated problem page; in their data the complaints were concentrated on the 2008-2009 cars (5 owners reporting, around 65,000 miles average), but owner forums (ChallengerTalk, Hellcat.org) show the same premature-shutoff complaint persisting across later SXT, R/T, Scat Pack and SRT Hellcat models. The root cause is the EVAP (evaporative emissions) venting path that is supposed to let air/vapor escape the tank as fuel goes in. When that path is restricted, displaced vapor cannot vent, tank pressure rises, fuel backs up into the filler neck, and the nozzle's automatic shutoff senses 'full' prematurely. Specific culprits identified by RepairPal and dealer/diagnostic sources include a restricted or kinked vapor recirculation tube, a faulty fuel fill (filler) tube, a clogged EVAP fresh-air filter or vent line, and a malfunctioning EVAP canister vent/control valve. RepairPal also documents a saddle-style (two-half) tank design on some cars where an internal fuel-distribution/overfill mechanism malfunctions and trips the overfill sensor early, in which case the cure was a complete fuel tank replacement. On modern cars the same symptom frequently appears alongside EVAP fault codes (P0440, P0441, P0452), and a stuck or restricted purge/vent path is the first thing to check. The issue is overwhelmingly a fueling-station annoyance and slow-fill nuisance rather than a safety or driveability defect, which is why it rates LOW severity, though it is highly searchable because so many owners hit it at the pump.