According to Au7o's analysis of 3,208+ owner reports, the 2015 Dodge Challenger has 26 documented known issues, with 5 rated critical. The most serious are Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure ($300-$2,500 repair), Electronic Power Steering (EPS) Rack Failure ($1,200-$2,800 repair), Valve Spring Failure on 6.4L 392 HEMI (High-RPM and Modified/Boosted Cars) ($700-$5,000 repair), Hellcat IHI Supercharger Bearing / Pulley Failure ($3,000-$12,000 repair) and 2015-2018 Challenger Cruise Control May Not Disengage (Recall 18V332000). The most commonly reported issue is HEMI Lifter/MDS Tick with 678 owner reports. Across all issues with published estimates, repair costs range from $20 to $12,000. DIY maintenance guides at au7o.io.
Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2023 Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger, and Dodge Challenger vehicles. The parking brake may be improperly adjusted, which can result in a vehicle roll away. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 135, "Light Vehicle Brake Systems."
Campaign #24V11200015/02/2024
SEATS:CRITICAL FASTENERS
Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2023 Dodge Challenger vehicles. The left rear seat back may not lock in the upright position. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 207, "Seating Systems."
Campaign #24V57300001/08/2024
VISIBILITY:WINDSHIELD
Chrysler (FCA US, LLC) is recalling certain 2020-2021 Dodge Challenger, Dodge Charger, and Chrysler 300 vehicles. During manufacturing, the windshield may not have been properly bonded to the vehicle, allowing it to detach in a crash. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 212, "Windshield Mounting."
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What are the most common Dodge Challenger problems?
According to Au7o's analysis of 3,208+ owner reports, the 2015 Dodge Challenger has 26 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure, Electronic Power Steering (EPS) Rack Failure, Valve Spring Failure on 6.4L 392 HEMI (High-RPM and Modified/Boosted Cars). Of these, 5 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Dodge Challenger reliable?
The 2015 Dodge Challenger has 26 known issues documented across 3,208+ owner reports. 5 issues are rated critical: Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure and Electronic Power Steering (EPS) Rack Failure and Valve Spring Failure on 6.4L 392 HEMI (High-RPM and Modified/Boosted Cars) and Hellcat IHI Supercharger Bearing / Pulley Failure and 2015-2018 Challenger Cruise Control May Not Disengage (Recall 18V332000). Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Dodge Challenger problems?
Repair costs for known Dodge Challenger issues range from $0 to $12,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure, typically costs $300-$2,500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure?
The rear driveshaft on high-powered Challengers can experience premature U-joint failure or driveshaft issues, especially under hard launches, drag racing, or with aftermarket power upgrades. The factory driveshaft may not handle repeated high-torque loads. Some owners report mul… Repairs typically run $300-$2,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Electronic Power Steering (EPS) Rack Failure?
The EPS rack assembly can fail suddenly, causing complete loss of steering assist while driving. Circuit board contamination in the EPS module causes short circuit. Corrosion in rack assembly compounds the issue. Recalls S19 (NHTSA 16V-167) and VB8 (NHTSA 19V-812) cover some vehi… Repairs typically run $1,200-$2,800. Severity: high.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
Filter:
When Issues Typically Appear
Driveshaft Failure / U-Joint Failure
15K-50K
ZF 8-Speed Transmission Harsh Shifting and Valve Body Failure
40K-60K
Pentastar V6 Rocker Arm/Lifter Tick
50K-100K
OEM Radiator Premature Failure
60K-100K
025K50K75K100K mi
On the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 6.4L 392 HEMI V8 (Apache), the production valve springs on the 6.4L 392 HEMI can crack or fracture. A weakened spring can cause a persistent single-cylinder misfire that remains after plug, coil, or injector swaps; a complete fracture can let the valve contact the piston and cause major cylinder-head or engine damage. High-RPM and modified/cammed use changes valvetrain load, but the correct replacement spring must be selected from the camshaft's lift and required installed/open pressures rather than from boost alone.
Persistent single-cylinder misfire that does NOT go away after replacing spark plugs, coil packs, or injectors
Rough idle, stuttering, and a shaking/vibrating engine
Check engine light flashing under load (active misfire)
Loss of power and the car going into limp/reduced-power mode
Low compression on the affected cylinder during a compression or leak-down test
Ticking, clattering, or valvetrain noise from one bank
In a full failure: severe knocking, loss of a cylinder, then catastrophic engine failure (dropped valve)
Symptoms most often appear after track use, hard high-RPM driving, or on modified/cammed/boosted cars
How to Fix
Stop driving if a broken spring is suspected. Confirm the fault with compression or leak-down testing and valve-cover inspection before buying parts. For affected 2021-2022 Challenger/Charger 6.4L vehicles, FCA GPOP bulletin 9004444 directs technicians to replace all valve springs after a broken spring is confirmed, not only the failed spring; other model years should follow the current VIN-specific service procedure. The OEM production repair uses sixteen 5037382BC springs. Mopar Performance 68277306AA is an individual higher-lift spring: a full 6.4L engine requires sixteen plus correctly sized shims, and the spring must match the camshaft's lift and pressure requirements. Aftermarket PAC/BTR/Comp/Livernois sets should likewise be selected to the cam manufacturer's specification.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High Horse Performance bundle of 16 genuine Mopar 5037382BC production valve springs
Full-engine production-spring repair after compression/leak-down and valve-cover inspection confirms a broken or weakened spring Fitment: 2011-2023 Challenger 6.4L 392 HEMI subset in this issue; the live title extends through 2024 and ex…
Mopar Performance 68277306AA beehive valve spring
Modified/cammed engine branch only when the camshaft manufacturer specifies this spring's lift and pressure characteristics Fitment: One spring; sixteen plus correctly sized shims are required for a full 6.4L engine, and this must not be…
Confirmation tool before buying valve-spring parts; distinguishes valve leakage from rings, cylinder walls or head-gasket leakage Fitment: Universal professional test tool with 14 mm hose and 10/12/18 mm adapters; requires a regulated co…
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the IHI twin-screw supercharger fitted to the 6.2L supercharged HEMI in the Challenger SRT Hellcat, Redeye, and Demon is prone to internal bearing failure, typically heard first as a rising whine, growl, or whir from the front of the engine that gets louder with RPM and engine warmth. The root cause is a design margin problem: from the factory the supercharger uses Nachi 6204 (front snout, behind the pulley) and 6203 (rear snout, ahead of the male coupling) bearings fitted with full-contact (NSE) rubber seals rated for only roughly 10,000-12,000 RPM. The male rotor and snout shaft, however, can spin to around 25,000 RPM at the 6,200 RPM redline. The full-contact seals create friction and heat that cooks the factory Mobil Polyrex EM grease over time; once the grease breaks down the bearing wears, grows loud, and can eventually seize or shed material into the blower. Owners who fit a smaller (overdrive) upper pulley to make more boost spin the snout even faster and dramatically accelerate failure, so modified cars are over-represented in failure reports, but bone-stock cars fail too. Failures have been documented from very low mileage (one 2019 Redeye reported bearing failure at roughly 2,000 miles; another stock car at about 1,700 miles). Because the IHI unit integrates the blower, intake manifold, and the air-to-water charge cooler in one assembly, Dodge's only factory remedy is replacing the entire supercharger, which is why this is a high-cost, high-anxiety issue in the Hellcat/Redeye/Demon community with multiple dedicated multi-page forum threads. There is no OBD-II diagnostic trouble code for this; it is a mechanical wear failure diagnosed by sound, so a clean scan tool does not rule it out.
Common Symptoms
Whine, whir, or growl from the front of the engine that rises with RPM
Noise that grows louder as the engine warms up
Supercharger bearing whine audible at idle or on light throttle
Rough or notchy feel and axial play when spinning the snout pulley by hand
Grinding, rattling, or ticking from the blower at higher mileage or after pulley changes
Noise that returns shortly after a previous supercharger replacement
Possible boost loss or rough running if a bearing seizes or sheds material
How to Fix
Diagnose the noise before spending money: confirm the whine/growl is the supercharger and not the belt tensioner, idler, decoupler pulley, or accessory drive (a Litens/aftermarket pulley or tensioner can disintegrate and mimic blower bearing noise). With the belt removed, spin the snout pulley by hand and feel for roughness, axial play, or grinding. If the car is still under the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper or 5-year/60,000-mile powertrain warranty AND the supercharger has not been modified (no smaller pulley, no over-revving), have a Dodge dealer replace the unit under warranty at no cost. Out of warranty, two paths exist. (1) Full OEM supercharger replacement runs roughly $4,000-$7,500 for the part plus install, and complete dealer jobs are commonly reported around $10,000-$12,000 once labor and related gaskets/fluids are included. (2) The far more economical fix favored by enthusiasts is a specialist rebuild of the existing IHI unit: the shop presses out the failed Nachi snout bearings and installs upgraded bearings that use non-contact labyrinth seals (for example NTN 6203LLB-type, or ceramic high-speed bearings), which run cooler, retain grease, and are rated to ~18,000+ RPM instead of the stock 10k-12k. Reputable rebuilders (e.g., Jon Bond Performance, FAS Motorsports, SDG Motorsports, High Horse) charge roughly $3,000-$4,000 for a Stage 2/Stage 3 rebuild that replaces all bearings, seals, and couplers, often with SKF/GMN/Timken or ceramic bearings and an optional race-bearing package. After repair, avoid undersized overdrive pulleys on a daily car, keep the belt and tensioner healthy, and address any new whine immediately rather than driving on a failing bearing (a seized blower or shed debris can cause far more expensive engine damage).
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
F.A.S. Motorsports upgraded Hellcat supercharger snout bearings, one set
Bearing-only branch after belt-off isolation confirms roughness or play inside the snout and a competent supercharger rebuilder has inspected the shaft, pulley and coupler Fitment: Hellcat IHI supercharger snout component rather than a c…
2.7L snout replacement after diagnosis confirms the noise and play are internal to the snout rather than the belt tensioner, idlers or accessories Fitment: Vendor application explicitly covers Challenger H.O. 2.7L variants including 2019…
Genuine Mopar 53011558AA supercharger drive-belt tensioner with pulley
Replace only when belt-off inspection identifies weak tension, pulley roughness, misalignment or contact in the supercharger drive rather than internal blower damage Fitment: Official page identifies 2015-2024 Mopar 6.2L Hellcat/Redeye s…
Genuine Mopar 68267539AA supercharger gasket kit
Reseal component for a 2.4L supercharger removal/opening procedure; it supports a verified rebuild or replacement and is not a stand-alone cure for bearing noise Fitment: Live fitment lists 2015-2020 Challenger 6.2L; later and H.O. 2.7L …
On the 2015-2021 Dodge Challenger, some 2015-2021 Dodge Challenger 5.7L and 6.4L engines can develop a persistent engine-speed-related tick, rough idle, loss of power, or misfire from hydraulic roller-lifter, roller, or cam-lobe wear. A tick alone does not prove internal wear: exhaust-manifold leakage, injector noise, oil-pressure concerns, and other causes must be ruled out. MDS fitment is transmission-specific, not engine-name-wide: automatic 5.7L and 6.4L applications use cylinder deactivation, while six-speed manual applications are non-MDS. Cam and lifter wear is not limited to MDS hardware.
Retrieve DTC and misfire data, localize the noise, and check for exhaust-manifold leakage before buying internal parts. If cam/lifter wear is suspected, inspect the lifter rollers and cam lobes and check the VVT oil-control-valve screen for metal debris. FCA STAR case S1709000010 directs camshaft/lifter replacement when wear is confirmed and no screen debris is present; debris can indicate that a larger repair or engine replacement is required. Use the lifter type that matches the factory transmission/MDS configuration and verify by VIN. A stock automatic-MDS full-engine service set requires two front 5038785AD packs and two rear 5038786AD packs. A factory non-MDS/manual full-engine set requires four OEM 5038784AD packs, or an exact retailer bundle of sixteen lifters and four yokes. On an automatic-MDS car, non-MDS lifters are only one part of a complete engineered mechanical delete with compatible cam/supporting parts and calibration. Correct oil and electronic MDS disabling do not repair a worn lifter, roller, or camshaft.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 5038785AD front MDS hydraulic lifters and yoke pack
Front-position MDS lifter pack for a confirmed MDS valvetrain repair after the heads are removed and roller/cam damage is inspected Fitment: Live fitment lists 2009-2023 Challenger 5.7L/6.4L, but the year-specific catalog specifies MDS/f…
Genuine Mopar 5038786AD rear MDS hydraulic lifters and yoke pack
Rear-position companion pack for a complete factory-MDS lifter repair Fitment: Live fitment lists 2009-2023 Challenger 5.7L/6.4L; pair with the front packs only on a verified MDS engine, and confirm that two front plus two rear packages …
Complete lifter branch for a factory non-MDS/manual-transmission 5.7L or 6.4L after cam and roller inspection confirms replacement Fitment: Live bundle explicitly contains 16 lifters and four yokes and lists 2015-2023 Challenger 5.7L/6.4…
Camshaft replacement when lifter-roller failure has visibly or measurably damaged a lobe on the verified 5.7L MDS engine Fitment: Year-specific catalogs identify this as the 5.7L MDS cam; direct fitment lists 2009-2023 Challenger 5.7L. D…
High ConfidenceVerified678 owner reportsLast reported by owners Jan 2024Reviewed Aug 2026
Community reported
350 owners
On the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 3.6L Pentastar V6, the plastic oil filter housing warps and cracks from heat cycling, causing oil leaks from front of engine near oil filter. In severe cases coolant and oil can mix. Common across all Pentastar 3.6L vehicles (Challenger, Charger, 300, Jeep, Ram).
Replace with Dorman aluminum aftermarket housing (926-959 with oil cooler, 2011-2023) for a permanent fix vs the OEM plastic housing that will crack again. Dorman 926-876 is the earlier version without cooler.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Dorman 926-959 complete aluminum engine-oil-filter housing and cooler assembly
Primary complete replacement after cleaning and inspection confirm the Pentastar oil-filter adapter/cooler assembly is the oil or coolant leak source Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger 3.6L.
High ConfidenceVerified350 owner reportsLast reported by owners Nov 2025Reviewed Aug 2026
Community reported
345 owners
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger 3.6L Pentastar V6, the 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine can develop a ticking noise from worn rocker arms. Unlike the HEMI MDS tick, this is caused by the roller follower rocker arms wearing out prematurely. The issue typically appears between 50,000-100,000 miles and is more common on 2011-2013 engines but can occur on later models.
Replace the affected rocker arms. Many owners replace all 24 rocker arms preventatively when doing this repair ($400-800 for parts). Labor is 4-6 hours ($400-600). Total repair cost is typically $800-1,400. Using quality synthetic oil and regular oil changes can help prevent premature wear.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Mopar 5184296AH valve rocker arm
Replacement for each rocker whose roller, bearing or contact surface is confirmed faulty after the valve cover is removed and the cam lobes are inspected Fitment: Live OEM fitment lists 2011-2023 Challenger 3.6L and the year catalog requ…
High ConfidenceVerified345 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Aug 2026
Community reported
320 owners
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, exhaust manifold bolts break due to thermal cycling causing the bolts to become brittle and snap, especially on the passenger side. Dissimilar metals (iron manifold, aluminum head) accelerate the process. Creates a ticking noise at cold startup. Common across all HEMI-powered LX/LC platform vehicles.
Extract broken bolts using ProMAXX drill template tool kit (PMXA200PROP). Replace with Mopar double-ended studs (6509863AA/6510141AA) and Grade 8 nuts instead of bolts. Apply anti-seize on new hardware. Felpro gasket set MS96692 for 2008-2014.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
ProMAXX Alan PMXA200PROP broken exhaust-manifold bolt repair ProKit
Drill-template extraction tool explicitly named by the repair for broken bolts flush with or below the cylinder head Fitment: Dodge HEMI 5.7L and 6.1L only; not the 6.4L geometry $419.91, stock 47 and add-to-cart live on the US tool reta…
ProMAXX Chad PMXCD200PRO 6.4L HEMI broken-bolt repair kit
Engine-specific extraction tool for the 392/6.4L branch that the 5.7L/6.1L template does not cover Fitment: 6.4L HEMI; manufacturer/retailer describes Dodge/Ram engine fitment, so confirm Challenger manifold access before purchase $365.5…
The page does not substantiate a blanket 6.1L/6.4L or 2021-2023 Challenger claim, so those applications need VIN/catalog confirmation $11.65 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
Manifold-to-head reseal during the broken-fastener repair Fitment: 5.7L HEMI application only after vehicle fitment confirmation; not the 6.1L/6.4L gasket branch $56.99 and Add to Cart on the live AutoZone US product page when checked
Genuine Mopar 5038099AA left exhaust-manifold gasket
Left-side gasket for the 6.1L/6.4L repair branch; pair with the VIN-confirmed right-side 5038098AA Fitment: 6.1L/6.4L HEMI Challenger subset according to OEM catalog; order by engine and side Live direct OEM product page when checked
High ConfidenceVerified320 owner reportsLast reported by owners Oct 2025Reviewed Aug 2026
On the 2009-2023 Dodge Challenger, on the Gen-III Hemi V8 (5.7L VVT from 2009 on, and the 6.4L/392 across its run), engine oil is cooled by a coolant-fed oil cooler integrated into the oil-filter adapter housing that sits in the engine valley, beneath the intake manifold. The cooler is a coolant-to-oil heat exchanger sealed to the adapter and the block by O-ring-style gaskets. As these seals age and harden, the assembly weeps oil externally (often appearing as oil seeping down the front/rear of the engine or pooling near the oil-filter area) and, because oil and engine coolant pass through adjacent passages, a failed internal seal can let the two fluids mix — milky/emulsified oil on the dipstick or oil contamination in the coolant. A documented aggravating cause is over-torquing the spin-on/cartridge oil filter or filter cap during oil changes, which can distort or crack the housing and its seals. Because the cooler is buried under the intake manifold, the repair is labor-intensive (intake manifold removal and a full coolant drain/refill), which is what pushes the bill far above a simple gasket job. This is the V8 oil-cooler/adapter failure and is distinct from the Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar V6 plastic oil-filter-housing leak — different engine family, different part, different failure mode and cost.
Common Symptoms
Oil seeping or dripping near the oil filter / down the front or rear of the engine
Coolant level slowly dropping with no obvious external coolant leak
Milky, tan, or emulsified oil on the dipstick or oil cap (oil and coolant mixing)
Oil sheen or contamination visible in the coolant overflow/reservoir
Burning-oil smell from oil weeping onto hot engine components
Coolant pooled in the intake valley around the oil cooler when the manifold is removed
Leak worsening shortly after an oil change (over-tightened filter)
How to Fix
Confirm the source before tearing into it: an oil-temperature sensor or the two external coolant hoses at the cooler can mimic a cooler-seal leak, so inspect those first. If oil is found in the coolant (or coolant in the oil), pull the intake manifold and check for coolant/oil in the valley around the oil cooler to confirm. The fix is to replace the oil cooler and its O-ring/seal set (and the oil-filter adapter housing if cracked or warped), typically the Mopar coolant-fed oil cooler assembly (e.g. Mopar 05037523AB for 09-23 5.7L VVT and 6.4L; the related oil-cooler seal is sold separately), then refill engine oil and coolant. Because the intake manifold must come off, expect significant labor. Many owners and shops switch to a more durable aftermarket aluminum oil-cooler/housing (e.g. Dorman) to reduce repeat failures. Prevent it: torque the cartridge filter cap / spin-on filter to spec and do not over-tighten, and if mixing is suspected do not keep driving, since coolant-contaminated oil offers little lubrication and can damage bearings.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 5037523AB engine oil cooler
OEM replacement after cleaning and inspection prove the factory 6.4L oil-to-coolant cooler itself is leaking rather than a sensor, hose, filter seal, fitting or another engine source Fitment: Exact live fitment lists 2011-2020 Challenger…
Aftermarket direct-replacement cooler branch for the same confirmed 6.4L cooler failure Fitment: Live retailer fitment explicitly lists 2011-2023 Challenger 6.4L and Dorman's manufacturer page identifies an aluminum core; this is an engi…
On the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger, a P0300 "random/multiple cylinder misfire" code with a rough, shaking idle is one of the most common drivability complaints on the Dodge Challenger, and on a high-mileage or maintenance-overdue car it is most often caused by worn spark plugs and/or weak ignition coils rather than an internal engine fault. The 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI V8s are especially prone because they run two spark plugs per cylinder (16 total), so worn plugs are a frequent misfire source; the 3.6L Pentastar V6 also commonly throws misfires from failing coil-on-plug units. Because P0300 is the "random/multiple" code (versus cylinder-specific P0301–P0308), it points to a condition affecting several cylinders at once — typically a full set of tired plugs, or coils that break down intermittently under load/heat. Owners notice it most at idle and during light acceleration. Critical: if the check engine light is FLASHING, the misfire is severe enough to dump raw fuel into the exhaust, which can quickly overheat and destroy the catalytic converter(s) — turning a routine tune-up into a far more expensive repair. Note: the 2011–2013 3.6L V6 also had a documented left-cylinder-head defect (Chrysler warranty extension X56), and 2014+ Pentastars can suffer rocker-arm needle-bearing wear; these can present similar misfire codes and should be ruled out if new plugs and coils don't resolve the P0300.
Check engine light with code P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire)
Rough, shaking, or unstable idle
Hesitation or stumble under light acceleration
Reduced power and engine surging
Flashing check engine light during a severe misfire (warns of catalytic converter damage)
Slightly rough running or vibration felt through the cabin
Occasional rotten-egg/sulfur smell or fuel smell if cat is being damaged
How to Fix
Start with a full ignition tune-up before chasing internal-engine causes. Pull and inspect the spark plugs for wear, fouling, or excessive gap; replace the complete set with the correct factory-spec iridium plugs (HEMI V8s take 16 plugs — both banks must be done). To pinpoint a bad coil, swap the coil from a suspect cylinder to an adjacent easy-access one, clear codes, and retest — if the misfire follows the coil, replace that coil (replacing all coils as a set is common on high-mileage cars). Also check for vacuum/intake leaks (smoke test) and inspect fuel injectors if plugs and coils are good. Spark plug intervals: the 5.7L HEMI called for ~30,000 miles through 2013, extended to ~100,000 miles for 2014+; long-life iridium plugs are standard. DIY parts are inexpensive (a set of HEMI plugs runs roughly $130, individual coils are modest), making this a high-value job to do yourself. If the CEL is flashing, stop driving and tow it to avoid catalytic-converter damage. If a fresh set of plugs and coils does NOT clear the P0300, move on to compression/leak-down testing to rule out the 2011–2013 head defect or rocker-arm/lifter wear.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar SP149125AF spark plug
Complete six-plug tune-up branch when inspection, service interval or testing identifies worn/fouled plugs on the 3.6L Pentastar Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2011-2023 Challenger 3.6L and supersedes SP149125AD/AE; a complete engine …
Later 5.7L sixteen-plug tune-up branch after confirming the model year/engine specification Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2014-2023 Challenger 5.7L and supersedes SP143877AA/68143877AB; a complete engine set requires 16 individual pl…
6.4L sixteen-plug tune-up branch when plug wear/fouling is confirmed Fitment: Live exact fitment and year catalog list 2011-2023 Challenger 6.4L; a complete engine set requires 16 individual plugs $13.46 each and Add to Cart on the live …
Test-confirmed coil replacement branch for the 5.7L or 6.4L after a coil swap/circuit test identifies the failure Fitment: Live exact fitment includes 2008-2023 Challenger V8 applications and year catalogs require eight coils; the issue …
On the 2015-2018 Dodge Challenger, dodge Challengers built for the 2015 through 2018 model years are covered by FCA recall 18V332000. The recalled defect could prevent the cruise control system from disengaging: NHTSA states that if a short circuit occurs within the car's wiring while cruise control is engaged, the driver may not be able to shut it off by depressing the brake pedal or by manually turning the system off. The Challenger would then maintain its current speed or possibly accelerate. NHTSA's consequence statement is an increased risk of a crash. Note that the Challenger's model-year range in this campaign starts at 2015, one year later than most of the FCA vehicles included, so a 2014 car is not part of it.
Common Symptoms
Brake pedal does not cancel cruise control
Cruise control cannot be switched off once engaged
Car maintains its set speed or accelerates unexpectedly
How to Fix
Repair is free at a Dodge dealer, which inspects the software and performs a software flash on the engine or powertrain control module. Owner notification began June 4, 2018, and Chrysler customer service is 1-800-853-1403. Enter the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls to confirm your Challenger is covered and that the flash was performed. Do not use cruise control until the update is complete. If cruise control ever refuses to disengage while driving, apply the brakes firmly and steadily, shift the transmission into neutral, and put the car in park once it has stopped.
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the Uconnect infotainment system (8.4-inch 4C/4C NAV/UAQ head units, and the 7-inch Uconnect 4) on the Dodge Challenger is widely reported to freeze, go to a black or blue blank screen, and spontaneously reboot — sometimes in continuous reboot loops while driving. The fault is intermittent: the screen may lock up at a stoplight, cycle the Dodge/Uconnect boot logo repeatedly, drop all audio, and become unresponsive to touch. Because the same head unit drives the reverse/backup camera and HVAC/cabin controls, a freeze or reboot takes out the backup camera image and climate touch controls, which is the primary safety concern that elevates this beyond a nuisance. The 2018 model year is especially notorious (owners report nearly every unit eventually needing replacement), but the problem spans roughly 2015–2023, and brand-new 2023 cars have been reported failing out of the box. Two distinct failure modes are involved: (1) infotainment software/firmware faults causing the freeze/reboot behavior, and (2) head-unit hardware failure — either internal radio-module failure (which can set DTC B221E-00 "RADIO INTERNAL FAILURE" and require module replacement) or LCD/digitizer adhesive delamination and bubbling that produces "ghost touch," erratic input, and unresponsive areas.
Touchscreen freezes and becomes unresponsive to touch
Black or blank screen with no display
Screen turns solid blue then freezes
System spontaneously reboots, sometimes in a continuous loop while driving
Stuck on the Dodge / Uconnect boot logo
Complete loss of audio from the radio/media
Backup/reverse camera image does not display or freezes
HVAC and other cabin touch controls become inoperable
Ghost touch / erratic phantom inputs from screen delamination or bubbling
Issue is intermittent and may require an engine off/on cycle to recover
How to Fix
Start with the no-cost software path: have the dealer apply the latest Uconnect software/firmware update (many freeze/reboot complaints are resolved by a flash, and there is a related security software campaign — NHTSA 15V461000 — for 2015 units). A user-level reset can temporarily clear a freeze: disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15–20 minutes to power-cycle the module, or use the on-screen/hard reset (hold the volume and tune knobs, or the lower buttons, for ~20–30 seconds). If the unit still freezes, reboots, blanks out, or sets B221E-00 RADIO INTERNAL FAILURE, the head unit has a hardware fault and must be repaired or replaced. If the vehicle is in factory or extended warranty, push for warranty replacement of the Uconnect unit. Out of warranty, the dealer route is the most expensive (a full head-unit replacement). Cheaper alternatives that fix the common delamination/ghost-touch and many display faults are board-/component-level repair services (e.g., Circuit Board Medics, CUE Rescue) that rebuild your existing unit with no reprogramming and a warranty, or a DIY OEM LCD/touchscreen replacement. Note that delamination-only failures are a display fix, whereas true internal radio-module failure (B221E) requires the radio assembly itself.
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to sleep; owners reporting this problem measure anywhere from several hundred milliamps to over 2-4 amps, which is enough to flatten a battery in a day or two. There are several distinct, real-world root causes documented across owner forums (ChallengerTalk, ChallengerForumz, Hellcat.org), NHTSA/CarComplaints filings, and repair sites:
1) Smart-glass / one-touch power window self-cycling — the single most-reported cause in NHTSA and CarComplaints/CarProblemZoo data (18+ "battery dead" reports concentrated on 2010-2014, plus 2018). A faulty window switch or window module causes the driver- or passenger-side glass to drop and raise itself a fraction of an inch repeatedly with the key off, running the motor until the battery is dead. Chrysler issued a recall on 2011 cars for a related concern, but owners of 2012+ report the same symptom with no recall.
2) TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) faults — the under-hood power/fuse-relay computer controls dozens of circuits and can keep a circuit "awake" or stick a relay closed, producing a steady ~1-2 A draw. TIPM failure is a known weak point on Chrysler/Dodge platforms and a common diagnosis on early (2008-2014) cars.
3) Infotainment / Uconnect radio (RER, 730N, and later Uconnect head units) not entering sleep mode — a hung or buggy radio keeps the accessory bus awake. Owners report dealers pulling the radio fuse to confirm, then resolving it with a head-unit software re-flash (e.g., updating to 18.45.01) or radio replacement; multiple owners also report repeated radio/touchscreen failures on 2015-2017 cars.
4) Stuck switches and accessories — faulty door-jamb/courtesy switches that keep a dome light on, a trunk/glovebox/vanity light staying on, door-lock actuator faults, or aftermarket add-ons (alarms, amps, dash cams) wired to a constant-hot circuit.
5) Alternator diode failure — a shorted rectifier diode lets current bleed backward through the alternator with the engine off; some owners also have a charging fault where the PCM voltage regulation is at fault, so a new alternator alone does not fix it.
6) Hellcat / supercharged charge-air-cooler (intercooler) auxiliary coolant pump not shutting off — on 2015+ supercharged cars the aux pump can fail to power down (often after coolant intrudes into the connector or a loose intake-box ground), running the pump and killing the battery in as little as 3 days; this typically also sets charge-air-cooler pump DTCs (P023B, U02A9). SRT models from 2018+ include a "Storage Mode" that reduces key-off draw and should be enabled when parking.
Battery dead the next morning or after the car sits a few days
Car needs a jump-start frequently despite a relatively new battery
Power window drops and raises itself a fraction of an inch with the key off / ignition off
Audible relay clicking or a motor/pump running after the car is shut off and locked
Key-off parasitic draw measures well above the normal ~25-50 mA (often hundreds of mA to 2-4 A)
New battery still goes dead and alternator tests fine
Infotainment/Uconnect radio or touchscreen freezing, restarting, or failing to power down
Hellcat intercooler/charge-air pump stays warm and running after shutdown
Battery/charging warning light or flickering dash lights
Dome, trunk, or courtesy light staying on with doors closed
How to Fix
Confirm the charging system first: load-test the battery and verify alternator output with a multimeter, including an AC-ripple check to catch a failing diode (a new battery that keeps dying with a "good" charging test points to parasitic draw, not the battery). Then perform a key-off parasitic-draw test: let the car fully sleep (30-60 minutes, doors closed), put a meter in series with the negative battery cable, and confirm the draw. Anything sustained above ~50 mA is suspect; over ~250 mA will flatten the battery overnight.
Isolate the offending circuit by pulling fuses/relays one at a time (both the under-hood and trunk-area fuse boxes) and watching for the draw to drop. Common findings and fixes:
- Power-window self-cycling: replace the faulty window switch or window/door module and reset window auto-up programming; have the dealer check for any applicable recall/extended-warranty coverage.
- Radio/Uconnect not sleeping: confirm by pulling the radio fuse; fix with a head-unit software re-flash/update or replace the head unit if it won't sleep.
- TIPM keeping a circuit awake or a stuck relay: swap/replace the suspect relay or, if confirmed, the TIPM.
- Stuck door/courtesy/trunk switch or stuck dome light: replace the faulty switch.
- Alternator diode: replace the alternator (and verify PCM charging control if the fault persists).
- Hellcat charge-air-cooler aux pump not shutting off (P023B / U02A9): inspect/clean the intake-box ground and the pump connector for coolant intrusion; replace the auxiliary coolant pump if it won't power down.
- Aftermarket accessories: move any constant-draw add-ons to a switched/ignition circuit.
When storing the car, enable SRT "Storage Mode" (2018+ SRT, via steering-wheel/center-display menu) or use a battery maintainer/trickle charger to prevent recurrence.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Innova 3320 auto-ranging digital multimeter
Its DC10A input is unfused and the manual limits high-current readings; incorrect series connection can damage the meter or vehicle, so use the exact manual procedure and a current clamp/professional diagnosis when the draw may exceed th…
NOCO GENIUS5 five-amp charger, maintainer and desulfator
Long-term-storage support after the battery and charging system are known good, or while an infrequently driven vehicle is stored Fitment: Universal 6V/12V lead-acid including AGM and lithium support; it does not locate or repair a paras…
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the rear driveshaft on high-powered Challengers can experience premature U-joint failure or driveshaft issues, especially under hard launches, drag racing, or with aftermarket power upgrades. The factory driveshaft may not handle repeated high-torque loads. Some owners report multiple failures within 50,000 miles.
Common Symptoms
Clunking noise when shifting
Vibration at highway speeds
Grinding or clicking from under car
Noticeable play in driveshaft
Complete driveshaft failure during hard launch
How to Fix
Replace failed U-joints with high-strength units like Spicer SPL70 or SPL90. For repeated failures, upgrade to an aftermarket one-piece aluminum driveshaft from DSS, The Driveshaft Shop, or Tom Woods ($600-1,200). If drag racing or running 500+ HP, a carbon fiber driveshaft ($1,500-2,500) is recommended. Always check driveshaft balance after replacement.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Aftermarket complete-shaft upgrade for repeated factory-shaft/CV/support failures or higher-power use Fitment: 2015-2023 Challenger 5.7L and 6.4L V8 with automatic transmission; requires rear cradle lockout before installation and may re…
Manual-transmission complete-shaft upgrade branch Fitment: 2015-2023 V8 HEMI Challenger with manual transmission; live fitment includes R/T, Scat Pack, SRT 392 and manual Hellcat applications, with the same cradle-lockout and exhaust-cle…
Supercharged 6.2L automatic complete-shaft branch Fitment: 2015-2023 Challenger SRT Hellcat, Redeye and Demon 6.2L automatic; does not fit Demon 170 and requires a rear cradle lockout, with possible exhaust modification Normally in stock…
Mopar 68272626AD complete driveshaft, superseded by 68272626AE
Factory-style complete shaft after VIN and transmission confirm this build Fitment: Live direct page lists 2019-2023 Challenger 5.7L/6.4L applications; catalog diagram identifies the automatic-transmission branch, so 2015-2018 and other …
High ConfidenceVerified523 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Aug 2026
On the 2009-2019 Dodge Challenger, a long-running, widely documented complaint across Dodge Challenger forums is a ring-and-pinion gear whine from the rear differential that is transmitted into the cabin, typically most noticeable at steady cruising speeds around 40-45 mph (and again at highway speed in top gear). The high-pitched whine changes pitch with road speed and is usually most pronounced once the differential oil is warm and the driveline is under a light torsional load - it appears under light throttle or when backing off the throttle just enough to unload the drivetrain, and often quiets when coasting in neutral. Dodge engineering acknowledged the problem: the gear-mesh noise in the ring and pinion is amplified through the differential housing into the rear cradle/subframe and then resonates into the passenger compartment. On 2009-2012 cars (SRT8 and 5.7L manual-transmission models), Dodge issued TSB #03-001-12 (July 6, 2012) calling for a mass damper kit (essentially tuned harmonic dampers/"tuning forks", part #68156617AA) mounted to the rear cradle to absorb the whine frequency. On later 2014-2019 V8 cars the issue resurfaced and became the subject of a class-action lawsuit alleging the rear differentials cannot fully handle the engines' torque, leading to premature ring gear, pinion gear, and bearing wear, with metal particulates contaminating the gear oil; some dealers replaced entire differentials or driveshafts under warranty, though replacements sometimes whined just as much because a degree of gear whine is inherent to these axles. The condition is generally a noise/nuisance issue rather than an imminent safety failure, but in the worst lawsuit-cited cases it progressed to actual differential wear and vibration.
High-pitched gear whine from the rear of the car, audible inside the cabin
Whine most noticeable around 40-45 mph and again at highway speed in top gear
Pitch of the whine rises and falls with vehicle speed
Whine appears or worsens under light throttle or when easing off the throttle, and quiets when coasting in neutral
Noise becomes more pronounced once the differential oil is warmed up
Howling or whirling sound from the rear end (more advanced cases)
Vibration felt from the rear of the car in severe cases
Metal shavings or discolored/low fluid found in the differential
How to Fix
Start by confirming the noise truly originates at the rear axle (verify it is not tire/wheel-bearing noise) and check the differential fluid - several owners found the factory gear oil low, discolored, or contaminated with metal. A fluid change to a quality 75W-90 synthetic gear oil (Royal Purple is a frequent forum recommendation) with the correct limited-slip friction modifier reduced or eliminated the whine in many cases (owners report 75-80 percent improvement). For 2009-2012 SRT8 and 5.7L/TR-6060 manual cars, ask the dealer about TSB #03-001-12, which installs a mass damper/tuned harmonic kit (P/N 68156617AA) on the rear cradle to absorb the whine harmonic - reported to cure roughly 75 percent of the noise. If the whine is severe, accompanied by metal in the fluid, or there is vibration, the dealer may replace the differential (ring-and-pinion/carrier) or the driveshaft under powertrain warranty (5 yr/60,000 mi); document the complaint early and keep the service ticket open so coverage applies even if the fix comes later. Note that because some gear whine is inherent to these axles, a replacement diff should follow the proper break-in (gentle driving for the first few hundred miles) and may still produce mild whine.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 04318060AD limited-slip additive, 4 oz
Conditional companion additive when the VIN/axle identification confirms a clutch-type limited-slip differential and the service specification calls for it Fitment: Universal Mopar friction modifier rather than a model-specific part; do …
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the EPS rack assembly can fail suddenly, causing complete loss of steering assist while driving. Circuit board contamination in the EPS module causes short circuit. Corrosion in rack assembly compounds the issue. Recalls S19 (NHTSA 16V-167) and VB8 (NHTSA 19V-812) cover some vehicles.
Common Symptoms
Power Steering Assist Off warning message
Sudden loss of steering assist while driving
Heavy steering requiring significant effort
C2217-00 code (EPS Module Internal failure)
Intermittent power steering loss
How to Fix
Replace EPS rack assembly. Check VIN at safercar.gov for recall eligibility - recalls S19 (NHTSA 16V-167) and VB8 (NHTSA 19V-812) provide free repair for affected vehicles. Post-replacement steering angle sensor recalibration required.
High Confidence280 owner reportsLast reported by owners Sep 2025Reviewed Feb 2026
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, one of the most widely reported Dodge Challenger complaints — the "infamous front-end clunk." Owners across the LX-platform (2008-2023) describe a clunk, pop, knock, or rattle from the front suspension on initial acceleration, light braking, low-speed turns, and especially over small bumps, expansion joints, driveways, and uneven pavement. It is a chassis/suspension wear-and-tolerance issue, not engine-specific, so it appears on every engine from the early 3.5L V6 through the 6.2L Supercharged Hellcat. The 2012 Dodge service manual itself lists the standard culprits for a front-end clunk/snap on turns: worn or loose tie-rod ends, worn or loose ball joints, worn or loose control-arm bushings, loose stabilizer (sway) bars, and loose crossmember bolts. In practice the single most common source is the stock front sway-bar end links: the nylon-lined joint develops play, and a known design weakness leaves a gap between the sway-bar mount hole and the link stud (the shoulder washer prevents the stud shoulder from seating against the bar), allowing the link to knock. Heat-damaged nylon from impact-gun installation accelerates the wear. Secondary contributors that develop with age/mileage are worn outer tie-rod ends (owners report play well beyond the ~0.002 in spec, e.g. 0.009 in), tired front control-arm bushings, and worn ball joints. The noise is annoying and a sign of worn steering/suspension components, but it is rarely a sudden safety failure — hence medium severity. It has very high DIY and parts-affiliate intent: end-link kits are cheap and a popular first fix.
Clunk, pop, or knock from the front end over small bumps, expansion joints, and driveways
Clunk on initial acceleration and on light/initial braking
Popping or creaking from the front suspension during low-speed turns
Rattle from the front end on rough or uneven pavement
Noise that quiets temporarily after re-torquing or repositioning the sway-bar link washer, then returns
Audible play/looseness felt when shaking the sway-bar end links or tie-rod ends by hand
Excessive outer tie-rod end play (well beyond ~0.002 in spec)
Vague or slightly loose steering feel as tie-rods/bushings wear
How to Fix
Diagnose by source before throwing parts at it. With the car safely on stands, grab and shake each front sway-bar end link, the outer tie-rod ends, and the ball joints to feel for play, and inspect control-arm bushings for cracking/separation; a pry bar and a helper rocking the steering wheel help isolate the knock. Cheapest/first fixes for the classic sway-bar-link clunk: (1) re-torque all front-end linkage bolts to spec — some owners had a dealer simply re-torque the linkage and the clunk went away; (2) the well-known "washer trick" — remove/reverse the shoulder washer on the end-link stud so the stud shoulder seats firmly in the sway-bar mount hole, closing the gap that lets it knock. If links are worn, replace the front sway-bar end links (many owners install beefier aftermarket links — MOOG, etc.) — torque the nut while holding the stud with a wrench (never use an impact gun, which spins the stud and melts the nylon). For noise that remains after the links, replace worn outer tie-rod ends, front control-arm bushings, and/or ball joints as inspection dictates; any tie-rod or control-arm work requires a follow-up wheel alignment. Component lifespans vary, but tie-rod ends and bushings commonly need attention around 80k-120k miles, sooner with aggressive driving or rough roads.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 4895482AC front sway-bar end link
Most common clunk branch only when inspection finds play at the passenger-side RWD link Fitment: 2008-2023 RWD Challenger passenger/right side; pair with 4895483AC for the left side $59.63 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page whe…
AWD-specific worn-link branch Fitment: 2017-2023 Challenger GT AWD and SXT AWD with 3.6L; fits either front side $60.75 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
The year-specific steering diagram assigns this part to RWD and separate parts to AWD $108.00 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
Control-arm/ball-joint branch only after bushing separation or joint play is confirmed; alignment required afterward Fitment: 2011-2023 Challenger RWD with suspension sales code SDD or SDE, either side; other RWD performance codes and AW…
On the 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger, the factory plastic-tank radiators on Challengers are prone to cracking and leaking, especially under spirited driving or in hot climates. The crimped plastic end tanks can fail at the seams. Many owners report needing radiator replacements between 60,000-100,000 miles.
Replace with an all-aluminum aftermarket radiator for long-term reliability. Mishimoto, Champion, and CSF offer direct-fit aluminum radiators with lifetime warranties. Also inspect radiator hoses and clamps during replacement. Consider adding a larger fan or oil cooler if tracking the car.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 68050126AB engine-cooling radiator
Factory-style replacement after pressure testing confirms a radiator seam, core or tank leak Fitment: Live year-specific catalogs assign this part to 3.6L without severe duty and 5.7L heavy-duty configurations; the broad direct-product f…
Durability/performance upgrade branch when the owner chooses an all-aluminum replacement for a confirmed failed factory radiator Fitment: Manufacturer direct fit explicitly covers 2009-2016 Challenger 5.7L, which is only the 2011-2016 su…
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High ConfidenceVerified412 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Aug 2026
On the 2009-2023 Dodge Challenger, the mechanical (belt-driven) water pump on HEMI-powered Challengers is a recurring weak point that can fail well before normal service life, with owners reporting failures across a very wide mileage band — some as early as ~5,800-7,000 miles, clusters around 18,000-25,000 miles, and others out past 45,000-60,000 miles. The OEM Mopar pump uses a plastic impeller pressed onto a sealed bearing-and-shaft assembly. The dominant failure mode is bearing wear: as the bearing develops play and roughness, the shaft seal weeps coolant (a telltale trail of dried/crusty glycol residue on the pump body, distinct from harmless minor weep-hole staining), and in worse cases the loose impeller rubs the inside of the timing-cover/block bore, shearing plastic vanes off the impeller. Shed plastic circulates into the cooling system while the now-degraded impeller stops moving coolant effectively, producing localized overheating that can escalate to engine damage. This is a distinct component and failure set from the separately documented OEM radiator cooling issue — same system, different part. Dodge's own DodgeGarage how-to acknowledges the inspection points (loose/rough bearing and seal-deposit trail), and many owners and some dealers treat it as a known HEMI weak spot. A common, well-regarded fix is replacing the OEM plastic-impeller pump with a metal-impeller aftermarket unit (e.g., Gates) rather than another identical OEM pump.
Coolant leak / drip at front of engine with dried crusty glycol residue trail on the water pump body
Low coolant level and coolant smell after driving
Growl, squeal, or frog-croak-like bearing noise from the front of the engine
Play or roughness felt when rocking/spinning the water pump pulley
Gradually rising coolant temperature gauge
Engine overheating (when impeller fails and stops circulating coolant)
Bits of shed plastic found in coolant / cooling system after impeller breaks up
Often no check-engine light in early stages
How to Fix
Diagnose first: with the engine off, check the water-pump pulley/shaft for play (rock it) and spin for roughness/grinding; inspect the pump body for a dried, thick glycol deposit trail (sign of a failed shaft seal — replacement is required), as distinct from a harmless light stain at the weep hole. Listen for a growl, squeal, or "frog-croak" bearing noise from the front of the engine, and watch for slowly rising coolant temp or a coolant smell. The repair is replacement of the water pump (the pump is not serviceable). When replacing, many owners and shops recommend a metal-impeller aftermarket pump (e.g., Gates) instead of another OEM plastic-impeller Mopar unit to avoid a repeat failure. Replace the thermostat and any brittle gaskets/hoses at the same time, refill with the correct OAT coolant, and bleed the system. If the impeller shed plastic before replacement, flush the cooling system thoroughly and inspect the radiator/thermostat for debris. Torque the pump mounting bolts to ~18 ft-lb on HEMI applications (verify per year/engine). Caught early (seal weep / bearing noise, no overheating), it is a straightforward cooling repair; caught late (impeller failure + overheat), it risks downstream engine damage — hence prompt attention to bearing noise or coolant loss.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 53022095AJ engine water pump
Early 5.7L water-pump replacement after pulley play, bearing roughness or a pump-origin coolant leak is confirmed Fitment: Exact live fitment lists 2009-2010 Challenger R/T 5.7L and supersedes 53022095AF; it does not cover the 6.1L or la…
Hellcat/Demon/Redeye engine water-pump branch after diagnosis distinguishes the engine pump from the separate low-temperature intercooler circuit and its auxiliary pump Fitment: Exact live fitment lists 2015-2023 Challenger 6.2L and supe…
Conditional thermostat replacement during a confirmed water-pump repair when testing, age/condition or the service procedure justifies it Fitment: Live fitment lists 2008-2023 Challenger 5.7L/6.1L/6.2L/6.4L and supersedes 52028898AE/AI; …
Later-model refill after a confirmed pump repair when the VIN/build specification calls for Mopar OAT Fitment: Official page identifies 2012-2024 Mopar OAT concentrate but publishes no vehicle-fitment table; confirm the exact Challenger …
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a P0420 ("Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1") or P0430 ("Bank 2") check-engine light is one of the most common emissions codes on the Dodge Challenger, especially on higher-mileage V8 cars. The PCM sets the code when it compares the upstream (pre-cat) and downstream (post-cat) oxygen-sensor signals: if the downstream sensor begins to mimic the rapidly-switching upstream sensor instead of staying relatively flat, the computer concludes the converter is no longer storing/releasing oxygen efficiently. On the Challenger this code is frequently NOT a worn-out converter at all. The two most common upstream root causes are (1) an exhaust leak from broken exhaust-manifold bolts — the well-documented "HEMI tick" on the 5.7L and 6.4L V8s — which lets atmospheric oxygen into the exhaust stream and confuses the rear O2 sensor, and (2) a long-running misfire (worn plugs, failing coils, leaking injectors on the 3.6L Pentastar) that dumps raw fuel into the converter and physically destroys it over time. A failed downstream O2 sensor, contaminated converter (from an oil-cooler/oil-filter-housing leak on the Pentastar), or simply an aged/degraded cat round out the causes. Chrysler also issued software bulletins (TSB 18-021-12, superseded by 18-033-13) because early PCM calibration logic was overly sensitive and could trigger false P0420/P0430 codes — particularly in warm weather or on long highway drives — so a PCM reflash should be ruled out before any hardware is replaced. Because the converter sits in the federal/CARB emissions-warranty window for many of these cars, the diagnosis order matters a lot to the owner's wallet.
Check Engine Light on with stored code P0420 (Bank 1) and/or P0430 (Bank 2)
Vehicle may run normally with no obvious driveability change at first
Failed state emissions / smog inspection
Possible rotten-egg (sulfur) smell from a degrading converter
Slight loss of power or fuel economy if the converter is partially clogged
Often accompanied by a cold-start exhaust tick (broken manifold bolts) on the V8
Code returns shortly after clearing if root cause is not fixed
How to Fix
Diagnose before you spend. (1) Pull all stored codes first — if any misfire (P0300-P030x) or O2-sensor codes are also present, fix those first, since a misfire will quickly kill a new converter. (2) Inspect for exhaust leaks, especially broken exhaust-manifold bolts on the 5.7L/6.4L V8 (look for soot/ticking at the manifold flanges); repair the leak and clear the code before condemning the cat — a manifold leak is a very common false-trigger of P0420 on the HEMI. (3) Check for a PCM software update at the dealer per TSB 18-021-12 / 18-033-13, which addresses incorrectly-set P0420/P0430 codes. (4) Graph the oxygen sensors with a scan tool: the downstream (Bank 1 Sensor 2 / Bank 2 Sensor 2) signal should be slow and steady; if it copies the fast-switching upstream sensor, the converter is failed. A failing downstream O2 sensor is a much cheaper part to try than a converter. (5) Only after ruling out leaks, misfires, software and sensors should the catalytic converter be replaced. Use an OEM Mopar or quality CARB-compliant aftermarket (e.g., MagnaFlow) unit; cheap universal cats often re-trigger the code. On the 3.6L Pentastar, also confirm the oil-filter-housing/oil-cooler is not leaking oil into the system, as that contamination will destroy a new converter. Note: the converter is covered under the federal 8-year/80,000-mile emissions warranty (and 15-year/150,000-mile in California) on many of these model years — check before paying out of pocket.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth OBD-II adapter with included apps
Graph upstream and downstream oxygen-sensor behavior and fuel-trim data after misfires and exhaust leaks are repaired, before condemning a converter Fitment: Generic OBD-II live-data tool; confirm the app exposes the required PIDs on the…
Genuine Mopar 5149180AB oxygen sensor
Sensor branch only when waveform, heater-circuit and wiring tests identify the exact failed sensor rather than converter inefficiency Fitment: Live fitment lists 2011-2023 Challenger 3.6L/5.7L/6.2L/6.4L, but catalog position varies by ye…
Confirm engine family and local emissions rules $911.90 with Add to Cart on the live US retailer page when checked
Genuine Mopar 6509863AA exhaust-manifold stud
Repair an identified 5.7L manifold fastener leak before evaluating converter efficiency again Fitment: 2009-2020 Challenger 5.7L side-position stud, sold individually; other engines and positions require their own hardware $11.65 and Add…
Reseal a confirmed 5.7L manifold-to-head leak before interpreting catalyst-monitor data Fitment: 5.7L HEMI branch only after vehicle fitment confirmation; not the 6.1L/6.2L/6.4L gasket $56.99 and Add to Cart on the live AutoZone US produ…
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, the Dodge Challenger's evaporative emissions (EVAP) leak-detection device — the Evaporative System Integrity Module/Monitor (ESIM), the successor to Chrysler's older NVLD (Natural Vacuum Leak Detection) pump — is a very common failure point across the LX/LA platform (2008-2023). The ESIM is a mechanical, non-solenoid device (housing, two check valves/weights, a diaphragm, and a switch) bolted to the charcoal canister behind the rear passenger fender-well liner. It performs an engine-off non-intrusive test for small leaks and an engine-running test for medium/large leaks, and the PCM relies on it for ALL EVAP leak diagnostics. When the ESIM's diaphragm or switch fails, the PCM falsely concludes the sealed EVAP system is leaking and sets P0456 (small leak), P0455 (large leak), or a generic P0440, illuminating the check-engine light. Because the code description points to a leak, the part is repeatedly misdiagnosed: owners and shops replace the gas cap (sometimes multiple times), get a clean smoke test showing no actual leak, yet the code returns. Multiple forum threads document owners chasing this for months — replacing the gas cap, then the purge/canister valve — before the ESIM ("vapor leak detection pump") is finally identified as the real fault. One owner reported spending roughly $2,500 over repeated visits before the issue was resolved. In some cases the leak-detection pump was simply found unplugged behind the wheel-well liner.
Check-engine light (MIL) on with no driveability problems
P0456 (small EVAP leak), P0455 (large EVAP leak), or P0440 stored, sometimes intermittently together
Code returns shortly after clearing or after replacing the gas cap
Smoke test shows no actual leak yet the code persists
Gas-cap / 'tighten fuel cap' warning message that won't clear
Faint fuel-vapor smell in some cases
May cause an emissions/inspection test failure
How to Fix
Don't just keep replacing the gas cap. First inspect/tighten the cap and, if replacing, use only an OEM Mopar cap (e.g., P/N 52030377AB) since aftermarket caps frequently re-trigger the code. Then have a smoke test performed: if the smoke test shows NO leak but P0455/P0456/P0440 persist, the ESIM (leak detection pump) itself is the cause and should be replaced. The ESIM is located on the charcoal canister behind the rear passenger-side fender-well liner. DIY replacement takes roughly 40-45 minutes: a 22mm socket to pull the rear wheel, a clip/push-pin tool plus a 10mm socket to pull the liner, then unclip and swap the module. Also confirm the ESIM electrical connector is fully seated — several owners found it unplugged. After replacement, clear the codes and complete a drive cycle so the EVAP monitor can re-run and verify the fix. The ESIM part itself is inexpensive (~$25-$90 OEM/aftermarket, e.g., APDTY 160319), making this a low-cost DIY repair; a shop diagnosis-plus-replacement typically runs $100-$500 (dealer quotes can reach ~$800).
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 4861962AD Evaporative System Integrity Module
Replace the ESIM after cap/connector inspection and a smoke test shows no external leak but the EVAP monitor still implicates the module Fitment: Live fitment lists 2008-2023 Challenger 3.5L, 3.6L, 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.2L and 6.4L; supersedes 4…
Early-car cap branch when seal inspection confirms the cap itself is leaking or damaged Fitment: 2008-2010 Challenger 3.5L/5.7L/6.1L only; the solution's example 52030377AB should not be treated as the universal Challenger number $31.46 …
Later cap branch only when inspection or smoke testing identifies the cap seal as the leak Fitment: 2011-2019 Challenger; supersedes 68139752AA and 52030389AA $26.62 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the ZF 8HP45/8HP70 8-speed automatic suffers from harsh downshifts (especially 2nd to 1st), rough upshifts with RPM spikes, and clunking when cold. Ferrous or aluminum debris in 3-4 shift pressure valves is the primary failure point. Valve body is the most common component needing replacement.
Ensure TCM updated to latest software. Change fluid every 50,000 miles despite 'sealed for life' claim using Mopar 8&9 speed ATF (68218925AA) or ZF Lifeguard 8. Valve body replacement for persistent harsh shifting. Perform QuickLearn procedure after any transmission work.
High Confidence300 owner reportsLast reported by owners Aug 2025Reviewed Feb 2026
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, dodge Challenger owners across the LC/LA platform (2008-2023) commonly report the A/C not blowing cold, blowing warm/weak, or one side of the cabin staying warm. The complaints split into two distinct failure clusters that share the same symptom.
CLUSTER 1 - Refrigerant/AC-system side: Low refrigerant from slow leaks is the most-cited cause of weak or warm cooling. Owners also report A/C-system component failures including a failed expansion valve (multiple Scat Pack owners had the expansion valve replaced, several under warranty, which restored cold air), evaporator/condenser icing-up that an A/C shop resolved by evacuating the system, replacing the receiver/drier and recharging, A/C compressor failure, and condenser damage. A clogged or leaking evaporator never gets enough refrigerant to cool the air. A dirty cabin air filter reduces airflow (air is still cold, just weak).
CLUSTER 2 - Blend-door / mode-door actuator side: This is the signature Challenger HVAC complaint. The dash-mounted plastic blend-door actuator strips its internal gear teeth and produces a repetitive clicking/tapping sound from behind the dash (often loudest when changing temperature or after start-up), the temperature gets stuck (heat stuck on, or A/C feels weak in hot climates because any leakage from the hot/heater side bleeds into the duct), and in dual-zone cars one side blows cold while the other blows warm. The Challenger uses multiple actuators: on the driver's side the upper unit is the blend/temperature actuator and the lower unit is the mode (vent/floor/defrost) door actuator; dual-zone Automatic Temperature Control cars add passenger-side actuator(s) for the second zone. The actuators are interchangeable across the positions. Forum consensus strongly favors genuine Mopar/OE actuators - aftermarket units are widely reported as DOA out of the box or failing within months. The blend door's plastic gear itself can also strip teeth or break, so an actuator swap does not always cure it. Affects the full LC generation (2008-2014) and the facelift cars (2015-2023) across all engines and trims; severity is medium - it is a comfort/seasonal issue, not safety-critical, but defrost loss can be a winter-visibility concern.
Repetitive clicking or tapping sound from behind the dashboard, often when changing temperature
Temperature stuck - heat stuck on or won't get cold
One side of the cabin blows cold while the other blows warm (dual-zone cars)
Cannot switch between defrost, dash, and floor vents (mode door)
Reduced airflow from vents (dirty cabin filter)
Evaporator/condenser icing up then blowing warm
How to Fix
Diagnose which cluster you are in before spending money. First confirm the controls (temp not accidentally set to hot, vents open) and check/replace the cabin air filter if airflow is merely weak. Then have the A/C system pressure-tested: if refrigerant is low, find and fix the leak (commonly the expansion valve, evaporator, condenser, or O-rings) and recharge - a recharge alone without finding the leak is a temporary fix. A failed expansion valve, compressor, or evaporator requires component replacement and an evacuate/recharge; replacing the receiver/drier and orifice/expansion valve at the same time is recommended to protect new parts.
If the symptom is the clicking sound, stuck temperature, or one warm side, the fix is the blend-door (temperature) or mode-door actuator. Identify the failed actuator by cycling temperature and mode while listening for the click, then replace it - use a genuine Mopar/OE actuator (interchange/replaced part numbers include 68031977AA, 68033337AA, 68238243AA, and Dorman 604-024). On many positions the actuator is reachable behind the dash, but some require partial instrument-panel removal and separating the HVAC housing, which is labor-intensive. If a new actuator still clicks or sticks, inspect the blend door gear itself, which can strip or break; recalibrate by removing the actuator, resetting the door to its default position, and reinstalling carefully so the gears mesh.
DIY part cost for an actuator is roughly $35-100; a typical shop blend/air-door actuator replacement runs about $239-284, more if deep dash disassembly is needed. There is no HVAC-specific recall; TSB 24-008-14 addresses a separate 2015 blower-motor-cutout-on-high condition via control-module reprogramming.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 68299450AA A/C and heater door actuator
Clicking, stuck-temperature or one-side-warm branch after actuator command testing isolates the failed position Fitment: Live fitment lists 2008-2023 Challenger, but multiple HVAC doors and the control head can create similar symptoms; i…
Early-car refrigerant restriction/pressure-pattern branch after leak and pressure diagnosis Fitment: 2008-2010 Challenger 3.5L, 5.7L and 6.1L; the system must be professionally recovered, evacuated, leak-tested and recharged, with new co…
Genuine Mopar 68238028AB A/C expansion valve, O-rings and clamp
Later-car expansion-valve branch after pressure readings and leak inspection point to the valve Fitment: 2014-2023 Challenger 3.6L, 5.7L, 6.2L and 6.4L; this does not cover the unresolved 2011-2013 catalog gap $78.64 and Add to Cart on t…
V6 compressor branch only after pressures, clutch/command, oil condition and leak diagnosis confirm compressor failure Fitment: 2015-2023 Challenger 3.6L only; V8s and 2008-2014 vehicles require their own VIN-confirmed compressor $912.95…
Early-car evaporator branch after leak testing directly confirms a leaking core Fitment: 2008-2010 Challenger 3.5L, 5.7L and 6.1L only; substantial dash/HVAC-case labor and professional refrigerant handling are required $296.59 and Add t…
Genuine Mopar 68071668AA cabin-air filter, superseded by 68535614AA
Restricted-airflow branch when blower speed is normal but vent volume is weak Fitment: 2011-2020 Challenger; this filter cannot repair warm air with normal airflow and is not evidence of a refrigerant fault $25.63 and Add to Cart on the …
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, dodge Challenger owners frequently report front brake "warping" that produces a noticeable pulsation through the brake pedal and a shimmy in the steering wheel under braking, often accompanied by faster-than-expected front pad wear. The complaint surfaces at surprisingly low mileage — CarComplaints documents reports beginning around 6,500 miles, with the 2012 model year's "Rotors Warped" category averaging failure at roughly 15,400 miles across 10 complaints (rated 7.6/10 "pretty bad"). The condition is recurring for many owners: one report describes warping at 4,000 miles, again at 15,000, and a third time by 23,000, while another required resurfacing every 4,000-5,000 miles. While owners describe it as "warped rotors," the technical root cause is usually one of two mechanisms, and often a combination: (1) genuine thermal distortion/excessive lateral runout of the rotor, and (2) uneven brake-pad material transfer (friction-material deposits) that builds up on part of the rotor face and creates a thickness variation the driver feels as pulsation. The Challenger is a heavy car (roughly 3,800-4,500+ lb depending on trim/engine), and that mass plus spirited or aggressive braking loads the front rotors hard, accelerating runout and uneven pad deposition. Contributing factors include hard braking from high speed, riding the brakes in traffic, improper/uneven lug-nut torque, a sticking caliper applying uneven pressure, worn wheel bearings, and — very commonly — improper pad bed-in (break-in) that seeds uneven deposits from the start. Brembo-equipped performance trims (SRT8/392/Scat Pack/Hellcat) are not immune and carry far higher parts cost. The issue is a comfort/serviceability and longevity concern rather than a sudden safety failure, hence MEDIUM severity, but it drives repeat brake service and strong owner intent to buy replacement rotors and pads.
Pulsation or vibration felt through the brake pedal when braking, especially at highway speed
Steering wheel shimmy or shaking under braking
Vibration felt through the whole car when slowing down
Pulsation that starts subtle and progressively worsens, often after a long drive
Front pads wearing out faster than expected
Reduced/poor stopping power at low mileage
Recurring warping that returns a few thousand miles after resurfacing
Brake noise (squeal, squeak, or scraping) and visible scoring or uneven wear on the rotor face
How to Fix
Have a shop measure rotor lateral runout and thickness variation (DTV) with a dial indicator before assuming "warp." If the rotors are within spec and the problem is uneven pad-material transfer, an aggressive re-bedding procedure with new (or properly cleaned) pads can sometimes restore smooth braking. More commonly the lasting fix is to replace the front rotors and pads as a set rather than repeatedly resurfacing — owners who only resurface report the pulsation returning within a few thousand miles. Choose properly metallurgically-spec'd rotors (quality cast/balanced units; for spirited or track use, vented/slotted performance rotors and higher-temp pad compounds resist deposition and thermal distortion better) and ALWAYS perform the manufacturer/pad-maker bed-in procedure correctly to lay down an even transfer layer. During the job, verify and properly torque lug nuts with a torque wrench in a star pattern, confirm calipers are not sticking (clean/lube slide pins, inspect pistons), and check wheel bearings. Standard front pad replacement runs roughly $213-$487 per axle at a shop; a quality aftermarket front rotor-and-pad kit is about $128-$300 in parts (e.g., cross-drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads, ~$128+), making DIY very economical. Note that Brembo-equipped performance trims (SRT/Scat Pack/Hellcat) can cost dramatically more — owners cite dealer quotes of $4,500+ per axle for OEM Brembo fronts — so aftermarket replacements are especially attractive on those cars. Many early-mileage cases were covered under the 12-month/12,000-mile warranty when reported promptly.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 68368065AA front brake rotor
Replacement rotor after runout/thickness variation confirms the rotor cannot be corrected within specification Fitment: 2009-2023 Challenger only when VIN/brake sales code identifies the standard/heavy-duty non-Brembo rotor; sold individ…
Four-piston Brembo rotor branch after brake-package confirmation Fitment: 2021-2023 Challenger RWD with four-piston Brembo front calipers; sold individually and not interchangeable with six-piston directional rotors $166.50 and Add to Ca…
Earlier Brembo-equipped performance-trim replacement branch Fitment: 2015-2020 Challenger only after VIN and brake sales code confirm this rotor; sold individually and supersedes 68184587AB/AC/AD $932.80 and Add to Cart on the live OEM p…
Standard-brake pad set to install with the matching axle pair of rotors Fitment: Challenger standard/non-Brembo brake sales-code applications; the live direct table is broader than year diagrams, so VIN/brake code must be checked $97.88 …
Performance-brake pad branch to match the installed caliper/rotor package Fitment: 2015-2020 Challenger with brake sales code BR7; do not infer fitment from trim name alone $171.00 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
On the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger, the Dodge Challenger — especially HEMI-powered R/T, Scat Pack, and Hellcat trims — is one of the most-stolen vehicles in the United States, and its passive keyless-entry/push-button-start system is the reason. Thieves exploit several well-documented electronic attacks: (1) Relay amplification, where two people use signal-boosting devices to grab the key fob's signal from inside the owner's house and relay it to the car, unlocking and starting it while the real key never moves. (2) OBD-II key cloning, where a thief gains brief interior access (window punch / lock bypass), plugs a programming tool into the OBD port under the dash, and burns a brand-new fob to the car in minutes. (3) Under-dash hotwiring/bypass on older units. The Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI/IIHS) found the high-output Charger/Challenger HEMI and Hellcat cars top the most-stolen list for 2020-22; theft claims for the SRT Hellcat ran more than 60 times the average vehicle (about 25 claims per 1,000 insured vehicle-years), and even the standard HEMI was more than 20 times average. These cars have ranked in the top five most-stolen for over a decade because the powertrain is valuable, the security was easy to defeat, and stolen examples are quickly resold or stripped. This drives extremely high-intent "how do I keep my Challenger from getting stolen" search demand among owners.
Vehicle stolen with no broken glass and no key (relay attack from a fob left near a door/window)
Vehicle gone in minutes with door/window punch and a tool plugged into the OBD-II port
Repeated break-in or attempted theft of an unmolested, locked car
Sharply higher comprehensive insurance premiums or insurer refusing to cover high-output trims
Glass breakage at the window/door with the car still present (interrupted OBD-clone attempt)
Owner cannot self-program keys after dealer security lockdown is applied
How to Fix
Layer multiple deterrents — no single fix is complete. FREE FACTORY FIXES (any Dodge dealer reflash, covers 2015-2021 model years): (1) Enhanced Security Mode — set a 4-digit PIN in the radio/Uconnect head unit that, when armed, limits the engine to just 2.8 horsepower until the code is entered, so a thief with a cloned key literally can't drive off; it's free and reversible. (2) Key Programming Lockdown — locks the in-car key-programming system so thieves can't burn a new fob via OBD; the tradeoff is you can no longer self-program keys without buying a replacement security module (about $159), and Dodge offered discounted keys at install. (3) Intrusion Module (standard on 2022 Scat Pack/Hellcat, retrofittable) — alarms on glass breakage, interior motion, or tow/tilt. CHEAP OWNER STEPS: keep fobs in a Faraday pouch/box (~$10-25) to block relay attacks; pull the starter and/or ignition relay from the underhood fuse box when parked long-term; use a steering-wheel lock or brake/pedal lock as a visible deterrent; install a GPS tracker. STRONGEST AFTERMARKET: a Ravelco-style mechanical kill plug (~$500-900 installed) hides a plug-and-socket in the harness so the engine won't run without the owner's plug — immune to cloning, relay, and hotwiring. Many owners also have the dealer "burn"/lock the RF hub immobilizer so no additional fobs can ever be programmed.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
TICONN Faraday key-fob signal-blocking box
Home-storage layer intended to block the passive key signal used in relay-amplification attacks Fitment: Universal key-storage product rather than Challenger fitment; after purchase, place every fob/spare inside, take the closed box to t…
Ravelco professionally installed anti-theft device for Dodge Challenger
Treat vendor theft-prevention claims as marketing, not a guarantee, and verify warranty/installation coverage before ordering $799.95 and Add to Cart on the live US installer page when checked
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, challengers equipped with the optional power sunroof are a recurring subject of dedicated water-leak threads on the major owners' forums (ChallengerTalk, HellCat.org) and show up in TrueDelta body/integrity problem histories. The sunroof tray drains to four corner drain tubes (two front, two rear) that run down the A-pillars and rear pillars. Over time these tubes clog with pine needles, pollen, dirt and other road/yard debris, or a drain hose that was crimped/misrouted between the roof and a headliner support seals itself shut from heat cycling. When the drains can no longer carry the tray water away, it overflows and tracks along the headliner before dripping out the lowest point inside the cabin — most commonly the overhead console near the dome lights and HomeLink buttons, dribbling down onto the shifter plate (owners describe finding "half a cup" of water on the console). On some cars the leak is instead a failed or torn sunroof-glass weatherstrip that lets water past during rain or high-pressure car washes. Left unaddressed, the standing water can stain the headliner, soak the carpet/footwells, breed mildew, and reach interior electronics. It is a preventable maintenance/condition issue rather than a widespread defect, but it is a very common ownership question.
Common Symptoms
Water dripping from the overhead console near the dome lights / HomeLink buttons onto the shifter
Damp or stained headliner
Wet carpet or standing water in the front footwells
Water stains running down the A-pillar trim
Musty or mildew smell in the cabin
Puddle on the center console after rain or a car wash
Gurgling/trickling water sound from the roof when driving after rain
How to Fix
Diagnose first: open the sunroof and inspect all four corner drains with a flashlight — it only takes one small leaf to back up a drain. Clear each tube by feeding flexible nylon string-trimmer (weed-eater) line down the drain; the line follows the contour without tearing the hose. Do NOT use a metal coat hanger or stiff wire, which can puncture or split the drain tube. For stubborn blockages, drop the front edge of the headliner, disconnect the drain hoses, and blow them clear with LOW-pressure compressed air (high pressure can pop the hose off its nipple inside the roof). Clean any debris sitting in the sunroof tray and around the drain holes. Pour a little water into the open tray afterward and confirm it exits at the rocker/wheel-well outlets. If the drains are clear but it still leaks during rain or a wash, inspect the sunroof-glass weatherstrip for tears or shrinkage and replace the seal (or, in severe cases, the sunroof glass assembly). After any leak, dry the headliner and carpet thoroughly to prevent mold. Routine prevention: flush the drains each spring and fall, especially if parked under trees. DIY parts cost is essentially $0 (trimmer line); a shop drain cleaning runs roughly $100-$150, full leak repair $100-$400 depending on whether a seal/glass is needed, and water-damaged headliner replacement adds $100-$300+.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 5112805AC front left/driver-side sunroof drain tube
Replace only when inspection behind the headliner proves the front left tube is torn, pinched, detached or cannot be cleared Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2008-2023 Challenger and supersedes 5112805AA/AB $29.88 and Add to Cart on the…
Rear-left replacement branch after inspection proves a torn, detached or blocked-beyond-recovery hose Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2011-2023 Challenger, not 2008-2023 as the old record claimed; 2008-2010 rear-hose fitment remains VI…
Early rear-right hose branch after location-specific diagnosis Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2011-2014 Challenger; do not use the later 68185518AB simply because both are passenger-side rear drains $6.59 and Add to Cart on the live O…
Later rear-right hose replacement after the specific hose is confirmed damaged Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2015-2023 Challenger; it does not cover 2008-2014 $29.88 and Add to Cart on the live OEM product page when checked
Replace only when the drain trough or its integrated foam/weatherstrip is physically failed after all four drains and hose connections test correctly Fitment: Live exact fitment lists 2008-2023 Challenger and supersedes 5137559AC; this i…
Genuine Mopar 68301072AA sunroof glass assembly with bonded perimeter weatherstrip
Last-resort replacement when drains, hoses and alignment are correct but the glass's non-serviceable bonded weatherstrip is torn, brittle or separated Fitment: Live catalog lists 2008-2010 and 2012-2023 Challenger; 2011 is omitted/incons…
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, a widely reported cosmetic complaint on the LX-platform Challenger (2008-2023) is premature clear-coat failure: the clear layer blisters, lifts, and peels away from the underlying color coat. It most commonly starts at high-exposure, hard-to-cover areas — the leading edge of the hood (where it meets the nose/fascia seam), the matte/satin roof strip, fascia panel seams, and above the rocker panels. Owners describe the color on the roof strip darkening (going greenish or chalky) before the clear coat lifts, and flaking that begins at a panel edge and spreads. The root cause is a thin and soft factory clear coat (owners report roughly ~2 mils of clear, which is on the low side), combined with UV exposure and heat cycling that degrade adhesion over years. Black and other dark colors (Pitch Black, Brilliant Black Pearl) absorb more heat and UV and are the most frequently affected; owners and detailers note the clear is "too soft" and chips/marrs easily. This is purely a paint/appearance problem — it does not affect drivability, safety, or mechanical function, hence LOW severity. It is one of the most common 'Dodge Challenger paint problems' searches. Note: a manufacturer paint warranty (typically 3 years/36,000 miles for finish on these years) sometimes covers it if caught early and if the failure is judged a defect rather than wear; many owners report dealers declining coverage on older/out-of-warranty cars, calling it environmental wear. A relevant TSB also warns that partial (spot/blend) clear-coat repairs can themselves delaminate, so the correct repair is to re-clear or repaint the entire affected panel.
Clear coat blistering, bubbling, or lifting at the leading edge of the hood where it meets the nose/fascia
Peeling or flaking clear coat on the satin/matte roof strip, often preceded by the strip darkening, going greenish, or turning chalky
Clear coat lifting above the rocker panels and along fascia/bumper seams
Cloudy, hazy, or milky-white patches where clear has separated from the color coat
Flaking that starts at a panel edge and spreads outward
Worse and earlier on black and dark-colored cars (Pitch Black / Brilliant Black Pearl)
Soft clear coat that chips, swirls, and marrs easily; heavy orange peel from the factory
How to Fix
Document the failure early with photos and the paint code (door-jamb sticker) and open a paint-warranty claim at a Dodge dealer while still within the 3-year/36,000-mile finish-warranty window — early, clearly-defective cases are sometimes covered. Out of warranty, the only durable fix is refinishing: strip the affected panel to a sound layer and re-spray base + clear over the ENTIRE panel (do not spot-blend clear, which delaminates per the TSB). Budget roughly $500-$1,000 for a single panel (e.g., hood or a fender), $1,500-$5,000 when several panels/clusters are involved, and around $8,000+ for a quality full-vehicle repaint in the factory color (more for color changes or body work, up to ~$10,000 for a strip-to-metal job). After refinishing — or on a sound car to prevent recurrence — protect the soft factory clear with paint protection film (PPF) on the leading edges (hood nose, fascia, rockers, roof strip), keep the car garaged/out of constant UV, wash with pH-neutral products, and apply a ceramic coating or sealant. Avoid aggressive wet-sanding of the factory finish: with only ~2 mils of clear, correction can leave the clear dangerously thin.
On the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, many Challenger owners report that the fuel tank is hard to fill and the gas pump nozzle clicks off (shuts off) repeatedly before the tank is full, often with fuel backing up or spitting out of the filler neck. RepairPal lists this as one of the most-reported Challenger problems, with a dedicated problem page; in their data the complaints were concentrated on the 2008-2009 cars (5 owners reporting, around 65,000 miles average), but owner forums (ChallengerTalk, Hellcat.org) show the same premature-shutoff complaint persisting across later SXT, R/T, Scat Pack and SRT Hellcat models. The root cause is the EVAP (evaporative emissions) venting path that is supposed to let air/vapor escape the tank as fuel goes in. When that path is restricted, displaced vapor cannot vent, tank pressure rises, fuel backs up into the filler neck, and the nozzle's automatic shutoff senses 'full' prematurely. Specific culprits identified by RepairPal and dealer/diagnostic sources include a restricted or kinked vapor recirculation tube, a faulty fuel fill (filler) tube, a clogged EVAP fresh-air filter or vent line, and a malfunctioning EVAP canister vent/control valve. RepairPal also documents a saddle-style (two-half) tank design on some cars where an internal fuel-distribution/overfill mechanism malfunctions and trips the overfill sensor early, in which case the cure was a complete fuel tank replacement. On modern cars the same symptom frequently appears alongside EVAP fault codes (P0440, P0441, P0452), and a stuck or restricted purge/vent path is the first thing to check. The issue is overwhelmingly a fueling-station annoyance and slow-fill nuisance rather than a safety or driveability defect, which is why it rates LOW severity, though it is highly searchable because so many owners hit it at the pump.
Gas pump nozzle clicks off / shuts off repeatedly before the tank is full
Fuel tank is slow or hard to fill, must trickle gas in
Fuel spits back or burps out of the filler neck while fueling
Cannot fill the tank completely / gauge never reaches full
Premature 'full' shutoff even with the tank low
Check engine light with EVAP codes (on later models)
Fuel smell or rough idle right after refueling (related EVAP venting)
How to Fix
Start with the cheap, common causes before condemning the tank. (1) Reseat the gas cap and confirm it clicks/seals, and check for an EVAP code (P0440/P0441/P0452) with a scan tool, since a loose cap or stuck purge valve produces both the code and slow fills; on 2019+ cars a PCM software update (TSB) addresses some EVAP-code cases. (2) As a free workaround owners widely confirm: insert the nozzle fully and squarely so the pump's vapor-recovery boot seals against the filler, fill on the slow/first click of the trigger, and avoid topping off, which lets the tank breathe and adds nearly a gallon before shutoff. (3) Have a shop inspect the EVAP venting path for restriction: the vapor recirculation tube (check for kinks/blockage), the fuel filler tube, the EVAP fresh-air filter and vent hoses, and the canister vent (control) valve, and clear any restriction or replace the failed valve (the vent/purge solenoid is an inexpensive part, roughly $30-$120 plus labor). (4) If the venting path is clear and the symptom persists, especially on the documented saddle/two-half-tank cars, the fix is replacement of the fuel tank assembly, which is the costly end of the range. Many owners live with the workaround indefinitely since it is not a driveability problem.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Mopar 5278632AG fuel filler cap
Replace a visibly damaged or non-sealing early-car cap after reseating and seal inspection Fitment: 2008-2010 Challenger 3.5L/5.7L/6.1L only; a cap cannot cure a restricted vent tube or tank internal fault $31.46 and Add to Cart on the l…
Replace a confirmed non-sealing cap before deeper EVAP vent-path diagnosis Fitment: 2011-2019 Challenger only; supersedes 68139752AA/52030389AA and does not cover the late 2020-2023 cap family $26.62 and Add to Cart on the live OEM produ…
Replace only after command/vacuum testing identifies a stuck or restricted purge valve contributing to refueling or post-refuel symptoms Fitment: Live fitment lists 2015-2023 Challenger 3.6L/5.7L/6.2L/6.4L; this engine-bay purge valve is…
Replace a kinked, damaged or internally restricted filler tube after physical inspection isolates the tube Fitment: Live fitment lists 2011-2023 Challenger 3.6L/5.7L/6.2L/6.4L and supersedes several year-specific tubes; it does not cover…
Replace a confirmed kinked or blocked vapor-recirculation tube after the complete fill/vent path is inspected Fitment: The live catalog lists 2011-2014 and 2018 Challenger configurations; it is not continuous 2011-2019 coverage despite t…
2020-specific repair for a diagnosed restriction in this exact vapor-recirculation branch Fitment: Live fitment lists 2020 Challenger 3.6L and 5.7L; do not use for 6.2L/6.4L or other model years without an exact catalog match $53.65 and …
Chrysler (FCA US LLC) is recalling certain 2022 Dodge Challenger, Dodge Charger, and Chrysler 300 vehicles. The Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) sensor battery may fail prematurely and cause the sensor to become inoperative. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 138, "Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems."
Campaign #22V50400014/07/2022
TIRES:PRESSURE MONITORING AND REGULATING SYSTEMS
Chrysler (FCA US LLC) is recalling certain 2022 Dodge Challenger, Dodge Charger, and Chrysler 300 vehicles. The Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) sensor battery may fail prematurely and cause the sensor to become inoperative. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 138, "Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems."
What is the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger Valve Spring Failure on 6.4L 392 HEMI (High-RPM and Modified/Boosted Cars)?
The production valve springs on the 6.4L 392 HEMI can crack or fracture. A weakened spring can cause a persistent single-cylinder misfire that remains after plug, coil, or injector swaps; a complete fracture can let the valve contact the piston and cause major cylinder-head or en… Repairs typically run $700-$5,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Hellcat IHI Supercharger Bearing / Pulley Failure?
The IHI twin-screw supercharger fitted to the 6.2L supercharged HEMI in the Challenger SRT Hellcat, Redeye, and Demon is prone to internal bearing failure, typically heard first as a rising whine, growl, or whir from the front of the engine that gets louder with RPM and engine wa… Repairs typically run $3,000-$12,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2015-2018 Dodge Challenger 2015-2018 Challenger Cruise Control May Not Disengage (Recall 18V332000)?
Dodge Challengers built for the 2015 through 2018 model years are covered by FCA recall 18V332000. The recalled defect could prevent the cruise control system from disengaging: NHTSA states that if a short circuit occurs within the car's wiring while cruise control is engaged, th… Severity: high.
What is the 2015-2021 Dodge Challenger HEMI Lifter/MDS Tick?
Some 2015-2021 Dodge Challenger 5.7L and 6.4L engines can develop a persistent engine-speed-related tick, rough idle, loss of power, or misfire from hydraulic roller-lifter, roller, or cam-lobe wear. A tick alone does not prove internal wear: exhaust-manifold leakage, injector no… Repairs typically run $100-$2,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2011-2021 Dodge Challenger OEM Radiator Premature Failure?
The factory plastic-tank radiators on Challengers are prone to cracking and leaking, especially under spirited driving or in hot climates. The crimped plastic end tanks can fail at the seams. Many owners report needing radiator replacements between 60,000-100,000 miles. Repairs typically run $200-$800. Severity: medium.
What is the 2011-2023 Dodge Challenger Pentastar 3.6L Oil Filter Housing Leak?
The plastic oil filter housing warps and cracks from heat cycling, causing oil leaks from front of engine near oil filter. In severe cases coolant and oil can mix. Common across all Pentastar 3.6L vehicles (Challenger, Charger, 300, Jeep, Ram). Repairs typically run $400-$900. Severity: medium.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Pentastar V6 Rocker Arm/Lifter Tick?
The 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine can develop a ticking noise from worn rocker arms. Unlike the HEMI MDS tick, this is caused by the roller follower rocker arms wearing out prematurely. The issue typically appears between 50,000-100,000 miles and is more common on 2011-2013 engines bu… Repairs typically run $800-$1,400. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger HEMI Exhaust Manifold Bolt Failure?
Exhaust manifold bolts break due to thermal cycling causing the bolts to become brittle and snap, especially on the passenger side. Dissimilar metals (iron manifold, aluminum head) accelerate the process. Creates a ticking noise at cold startup. Common across all HEMI-powered LX/… Repairs typically run $400-$1,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger ZF 8-Speed Transmission Harsh Shifting and Valve Body Failure?
The ZF 8HP45/8HP70 8-speed automatic suffers from harsh downshifts (especially 2nd to 1st), rough upshifts with RPM spikes, and clunking when cold. Ferrous or aluminum debris in 3-4 shift pressure valves is the primary failure point. Valve body is the most common component needin… Repairs typically run $800-$2,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger Uconnect Infotainment Freeze, Black Screen, and Random Reboot (Backup Camera Loss)?
The Uconnect infotainment system (8.4-inch 4C/4C NAV/UAQ head units, and the 7-inch Uconnect 4) on the Dodge Challenger is widely reported to freeze, go to a black or blue blank screen, and spontaneously reboot — sometimes in continuous reboot loops while driving. The fault is in… Repairs typically run $200-$3,400. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger AC Not Blowing Cold / HVAC Blend-Door Actuator Failure?
Dodge Challenger owners across the LC/LA platform (2008-2023) commonly report the A/C not blowing cold, blowing warm/weak, or one side of the cabin staying warm. The complaints split into two distinct failure clusters that share the same symptom.
CLUSTER 1 - Refrigerant/AC-syste… Repairs typically run $35-$1,940. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger Battery Drain / Parasitic Draw — Battery Dead Overnight or After Sitting?
A widely reported electrical complaint across nearly all Challenger model years is excessive parasitic battery drain that leaves the car dead overnight or after sitting a few days. A healthy modern vehicle should settle to roughly 25-50 mA of key-off draw once all modules go to s… Repairs typically run $140-$1,200. Severity: medium.
What is the 2009-2023 Dodge Challenger Oil cooler / oil-filter-adapter housing leak (5.7L & 6.4L V8 Hemi)?
On the Gen-III Hemi V8 (5.7L VVT from 2009 on, and the 6.4L/392 across its run), engine oil is cooled by a coolant-fed oil cooler integrated into the oil-filter adapter housing that sits in the engine valley, beneath the intake manifold. The cooler is a coolant-to-oil heat exchan… Repairs typically run $400-$1,200. Severity: medium.
What is the 2009-2019 Dodge Challenger Rear Differential Whine Heard in Cabin?
A long-running, widely documented complaint across Dodge Challenger forums is a ring-and-pinion gear whine from the rear differential that is transmitted into the cabin, typically most noticeable at steady cruising speeds around 40-45 mph (and again at highway speed in top gear). Repairs typically run $150-$3,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger Front-End Suspension Clunk / Pop — Sway-Bar End Links, Tie Rods, Control-Arm Bushings, Ball Joints?
One of the most widely reported Dodge Challenger complaints — the "infamous front-end clunk." Owners across the LX-platform (2008-2023) describe a clunk, pop, knock, or rattle from the front suspension on initial acceleration, light braking, low-speed turns, and especially over s… Repairs typically run $20-$461. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger Catalytic Converter Efficiency Code (P0420 / P0430)?
A P0420 ("Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1") or P0430 ("Bank 2") check-engine light is one of the most common emissions codes on the Dodge Challenger, especially on higher-mileage V8 cars. The PCM sets the code when it compares the upstream (pre-cat) and downstr… Repairs typically run $40-$2,379. Severity: medium.
What is the 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger Warped Front Brake Rotors Causing Pedal Pulsation, Steering Shimmy, and Rapid Pad Wear?
Dodge Challenger owners frequently report front brake "warping" that produces a noticeable pulsation through the brake pedal and a shimmy in the steering wheel under braking, often accompanied by faster-than-expected front pad wear. The complaint surfaces at surprisingly low mile… Repairs typically run $128-$600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2015-2023 Dodge Challenger High Theft Risk — Relay-Attack & Key-Cloning Vulnerability (Easy to Steal)?
The Dodge Challenger — especially HEMI-powered R/T, Scat Pack, and Hellcat trims — is one of the most-stolen vehicles in the United States, and its passive keyless-entry/push-button-start system is the reason. Thieves exploit several well-documented electronic attacks: (1) Relay… Repairs typically run $0-$900. Severity: medium.
