According to Au7o's analysis of 765+ owner reports, the 2011 Ford F-150 has 20 documented known issues, with 6 rated critical. The most serious are Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150) ($300-$1,500 repair), 3.5L EcoBoost Intercooler Condensation Causing Shudder and Limp Mode ($0-$350 repair), Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Assist Fault — Sudden Loss of Power Steering Assist ($1,000-$1,900 repair), 3.5L EcoBoost Primary Timing Chain Stretch — P0016 and Cold-Start Rattle ($1,800-$3,200 repair), 3.5L EcoBoost Turbocharger Wastegate Failure — Stuck Wastegate / Reduced Engine Power ($1,800-$5,000 repair) and P0700 — Transmission Control System Malfunction (MIL Request) from Failed 6R80 Molded Leadframe ($300-$1,200 repair). The most commonly reported issue is Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150) with 765 owner reports. Across all issues, repair costs range from $25 to $5,000. DIY maintenance guides at .
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2024 F-150 vehicles. The steering column lower shaft may have been secured to the steering gear assembly with an incorrect fastener, which can result in the separation of steering components and cause a loss of steering control.
Campaign #24V32900010/05/2024
VISIBILITY:WINDSHIELD
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2024 F-150 vehicles. The windshield may not have been properly bonded to the vehicle, allowing it to detach during a crash. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 212, "Windshield Mounting."
Campaign #24V48600028/06/2024
ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:OIL/LUBRICATION
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2024-2025 F-150, 2024 Expedition and 2024 Lincoln Navigator vehicles equipped with a 3.5L GTDI engine. The engines may have a misaligned engine cup plug, which can result in a rapid oil leak.
Campaign #24V85100020/12/2024
EQUIPMENT:OTHER:LABELS
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2020-2025 Explorer, Lincoln Aviator, 2020-2024 Escape, Lincoln Corsair, 2018-2024 F-150, Expedition and Lincoln Navigator vehicles. The air bag warning label may be missing from the dashboard. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirement Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 208, "Occupant Crash Protection."
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According to Au7o's analysis of 765+ owner reports, the 2011-2011 Ford F-150 has 20 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150), 3.5L EcoBoost Intercooler Condensation Causing Shudder and Limp Mode, Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Assist Fault — Sudden Loss of Power Steering Assist. Of these, 6 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Ford F-150 reliable?
The 2011-2011 Ford F-150 has 20 known issues documented across 765+ owner reports. 6 issues are rated critical: Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150) and 3.5L EcoBoost Intercooler Condensation Causing Shudder and Limp Mode and Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Assist Fault — Sudden Loss of Power Steering Assist and 3.5L EcoBoost Primary Timing Chain Stretch — P0016 and Cold-Start Rattle and 3.5L EcoBoost Turbocharger Wastegate Failure — Stuck Wastegate / Reduced Engine Power and P0700 — Transmission Control System Malfunction (MIL Request) from Failed 6R80 Molded Leadframe. Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
How much does it cost to fix common Ford F-150 problems?
Repair costs for known Ford F-150 issues range from $0 to $5,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150), typically costs $300-$1,500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What is the 2004-2014 Ford F-150 Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150)?
2004-2014 Ford F-150 brake lines, hoses, and ABS hydraulic components corrode aggressively in salt-belt states. Steel brake lines along the frame rust through, causing sudden loss of brake fluid and reduced or no pedal feel. Front and rear hard lines and rear axle flex hoses are… Repairs typically run $300-$1,500. Severity: high.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
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On the 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost, on first-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s, the front-mounted charge air cooler (intercooler) over-cools intake air below its dew point in humid weather, allowing condensation to pool inside the intercooler housing. Under hard acceleration the accumulated water is drawn into the combustion chambers all at once, causing a violent shudder/stumble and misfires. In severe cases the PCM commands a power-reducing 'limp mode.' The condition is most common in humid Southeast/Gulf climates and at highway speeds after the truck has been cruising at light load.
Common Symptoms
Hard shudder or stumble under acceleration in humid/damp weather
Misfires after cruising at light load
Sudden loss of power / limp mode
Symptom clears after pulling over and restarting
Worse in Southeast/Gulf Coast humidity
How to Fix
Ford's field fix relocates the air deflector from the top to the bottom of the charge air cooler to promote condensate evaporation, paired with a PCM calibration update. Many owners perform the DIY 'weep hole' fix — drilling a 1/16-inch drain hole at the low point of the CAC so condensate drains continuously (creates a minor boost leak but eliminates the slug-of-water shudder). Confirm no coil pack/spark plug fouling, which can mimic the symptom.
High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2011-2017 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6 (Gen 1), distinct from the cam-phaser cold-start rattle, the first-generation (2011-2016) 3.5L EcoBoost suffers genuine primary timing-chain wear ('stretch') because of its long chain routing and the high loads of a twin-turbo direct-injection V6. As the chain pins and rollers wear, the cam-to-crank relationship drifts and the PCM logs P0016 (and related correlation codes). The first symptom is usually a brief metallic rattle on cold start that worsens over time. Wear typically appears around 100,000-150,000 miles, often accelerated by extended oil-change intervals. Left unrepaired, the chain can skip teeth or break, causing catastrophic valve-and-piston contact. This is a high-demand search because the 3.5 EcoBoost is the volume engine in millions of F-150s.
Common Symptoms
Brief metallic rattle on cold start
Check engine light with P0016
Rough idle or hesitation
Reduced power / limp mode in severe cases
How to Fix
Confirm with a scan tool (P0016 cam/crank correlation) and verify chain stretch versus a sticking VCT solenoid before tear-down. The fix is a full timing-chain overhaul — primary and secondary chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, and VCT solenoids. Use the updated Ford parts; many shops replace the cam-position sensors and water pump while in there. Stay on the 5W-30 spec, change oil every 5,000 miles, and avoid extended intervals. Major job: $1,800-$3,000+ with labor. Catching it at the first cold-start rattle prevents engine destruction.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Timing chain / cam phaser repair KIT (Gen1, 2011-2016 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost) - the official Ford TSB fix for chain stretch
THE canonical Ford-released fix for this exact issue. Single-PN service kit per TSB 16-0027/18-2305 for 2011-2016 3.5L EcoBoost F-150 (also 2015-2017 Expedition/Navigator/Transit) describing the cold-soak start-up rattle.
Cam phaser + timing kit (Gen2, 2017-2020 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost) - official Ford fix if the truck is a 2nd-gen 3.5 EB
OEMHL2Z-6C590-AOwners useFord TSB 22-2200 service kit, HL3Z-6268-A (Gen2 primary chain, sold separately), Cloyes 9-0760S$445–$663
Provided because the 3.5 EcoBoost spans two generations and the prompt didn't pin a year. Official Ford TSB 22-2200 cam phaser installation kit for 2017-2020 F-150 / 2018-2021 Expedition & Navigator: all 4 cam phasers, new phaser bolts, …
The 3.5 EcoBoost water pump is internal to the front/timing cover, so it is standard practice to replace it during a timing-chain job (the FIX text notes 'many shops replace the water pump while in there'). AT4Z-8501-A / Motorcraft PW-57…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2011-2024 Ford F-150, the wastegate on the 3.5L EcoBoost turbochargers fails, either sticking (carbon/corrosion binding the valve and actuator arm) on early vacuum-operated designs or through electronic actuator/position-sensor faults on 2015-and-newer electric-actuator turbos. A stuck-closed wastegate causes overboost (P0234) and a metallic rattle, while a stuck-open wastegate or sensor/actuator faults cause underboost (P0299) and trip the powertrain into reduced-power limp mode. Because Ford does not sell the electronic wastegate actuator as a separate service part on later trucks, the accepted dealer repair is replacement of the entire affected turbocharger assembly, making it an expensive failure. Ford also issued TSB guidance (e.g., wastegate-arm rattle spring kits on 2017 3.5L) for related linkage slack.
Common Symptoms
Significant loss of power / limp mode
Wrench light and 'reduced engine power' warning
Metallic rattle at startup or when lifting off the throttle
Boost gauge showing over- or under-boost
Check engine light with turbo wastegate performance codes
How to Fix
Diagnose the boost-control fault and rule out unrelated causes first (charge-pipe/boost leaks, cracked intercooler pipe, BOV, solenoid, vacuum leaks). On early vacuum-actuator turbos the wastegate actuator/diaphragm or linkage can sometimes be serviced or freed; on 2015+ electric-actuator turbos Ford's procedure replaces the complete turbocharger assembly since the actuator is not sold separately. Replace oil feed line screens if oil starvation contributed.
High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2011-2025 Ford F-150, p0299 sets when actual boost is about 4 psi or more below the commanded value for several seconds, dropping the truck into reduced-power limp mode (orange wrench light). On EcoBoost F-150s the most common causes are NOT the turbos themselves but cheaper upstream parts: a loose or popped cold-side intercooler boot/clamp, a torn orange rubber diaphragm inside the electronic turbocharger bypass (blow-off) valve, and cracked charge-pipe couplers. On 14th-gen (2021+) trucks a specific failure is the plastic upper radiator air deflector warping and blocking the passenger-side turbo intake snorkel, starving that turbo for air (updated part ML3Z-8310-D). Wastegate-actuator sticking can also contribute. Owners frequently — and wrongly — replace turbochargers when a smoke test would have found a hose or the bypass-valve diaphragm.
Common Symptoms
Sudden loss of power / reduced-power limp mode
Orange wrench warning light on the dash
Hissing or whoosh under boost (boost leak)
Hesitation on hard acceleration
P0299 stored, sometimes intermittent
How to Fix
Always perform a high-pressure smoke test of the charge-air system before condemning the turbos. Reseat/replace the cold-side intercooler boot and clamps; inspect the electronic bypass valve for a torn diaphragm and replace if leaking. On 2021+ trucks setting P0299 on the passenger bank, inspect the upper radiator air deflector and replace with the updated part (ML3Z-8310-D) if warped. Check wastegate actuators for free movement. Only after leaks, the bypass valve, deflector, and wastegate are ruled out should a turbocharger be considered. A boot/clamp fix can be under $100; a turbo replacement runs into the thousands.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Turbocharger bypass valve (boost pressure relief / diverter valve with the torn orange diaphragm)
OEMFL3Z-9U465-AOwners useFL3E9U465BA, Standard Motor Products TBV1008, Dorman 667-001$35–$110
Upper radiator air deflector (passenger side) — warped, blocks the passenger-bank turbo intake snorkel (2021+ trucks, TS
OEMML3Z-8310-D$19–$90
Explicitly named in the FIX text and confirmed as a real Ford PN (listed as 'Side Shield / Radiator Support Baffle / Air Deflector', passenger side, 2021-2025 F-150).
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2011-2016 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6 (Gen 1, direct-injection only), first-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s use direct injection only (no port injection), so fuel never washes the back of the intake valves. Oil vapor from the PCV system bakes onto the valves and forms hard carbon deposits that restrict airflow and disturb valve sealing. Owners typically begin noticing symptoms around 80,000-125,000 miles: rough idle, cold-start stumble, hesitation or a misfire/shudder under hard acceleration, and reduced fuel economy. Ford has no approved chemical cleaning procedure for these valves and generally directs replacement rather than service, making walnut-blasting the practical fix. Later Gen 2/Gen 3 3.5L engines added port injection (dual injection) which largely prevents new buildup, so this issue is specific to the 2011-2016 direct-injection-only trucks.
Common Symptoms
Rough idle, especially when cold
Misfire or shudder under hard acceleration
Cold-start stumble or hesitation
Reduced fuel economy
Misfire codes (P0300-series) with no obvious ignition fault
How to Fix
The only reliable cleaning method is media (walnut-shell) blasting of the intake valves with the intake manifold removed — chemical induction cleaners cannot remove hardened deposits already present. Plan to inspect/clean around 80k-100k miles in affected engines. Installing an oil catch can on the PCV line slows future accumulation by trapping oil vapor before it reaches the intake but does not remove existing carbon. Replace spark plugs at the same service interval and confirm no PCV/valve-cover issues are accelerating oil carryover. Walnut-blast service typically runs $400-$900.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Spark plugs (set of 6) — replaced at same service as the walnut-blast carbon cleaning
Upper intake manifold gasket — required because the manifold must be removed to access/walnut-blast the intake valves
OEMAT4Z-9H486-AOwners useFel-Pro intake manifold gasket (3.5L EcoBoost application), Older Ford variants superseded into AT4Z-9H486-A$15–$45
Walnut-blasting requires pulling the upper intake manifold, so its gasket must be replaced on reassembly. AT4Z-9H486-A is the current Ford OEM plenum/intake manifold gasket covering 2011-2024 3.3/3.5/3.7L (incl.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2011-2020 Ford F-150, on the F-150, P0700 is a generic "MIL request" companion code the PCM stores whenever the transmission control strategy has logged an underlying transmission fault — it points to a problem but never names it by itself. On the extremely common 6R80 six-speed automatic (F-150 2011-2020, plus the 6R80 in Expedition/Navigator), the fault that most often drives P0700 is a failing internal molded leadframe (the plastic wiring harness/module inside the transmission that houses the output/input/turbine speed sensors and connects the shift solenoids to the valve body, Ford p/n AL3Z-7G276-D). As the leadframe's soldered connections and speed sensors degrade, the PCM sets P0700 alongside the real culprit codes — typically output-speed-sensor and gear-ratio codes such as P0720, P0722, P0731, P0715 and/or P1500. Note the mid-production architecture change: on 2009-2010 6R80 units the TCM lives in a separate leadframe/Mechatronic module that talks to the PCM (so P0700 can also accompany a lost-communication U-code), while on 2011+ trucks Ford integrated the TCM logic into the PCM and companion codes store directly there. Newer F-150s (2017+) use the 10R80 10-speed, where P0700 more often stems from valve-body/solenoid and TCM software issues rather than a leadframe.
Common Symptoms
Check-engine and/or wrench (transmission) warning light on
Harsh, delayed, or erratic shifting
Transmission stuck in a single gear (limp mode)
Speedometer dropping to zero or reading intermittently
Sudden unintended downshift into low gear at speed (rear-wheel lockup risk)
No/late upshifts and reduced power
How to Fix
Never replace parts off P0700 alone — pull the stored companion codes first. On a 6R80 F-150 showing P0700 with speed-sensor/ratio codes (P0720/P0722/P0731/P0715/P1500) and a wrench light, the accepted repair is to drop the transmission pan and replace the internal molded leadframe assembly (AL3Z-7G276-D), refill with Mercon LV, then clear codes and road-test. Eligible 2011-2013 F-150 (and 2012-2013 Expedition/Navigator) 6R80 trucks are covered FREE under Ford Customer Satisfaction Program 19N01, which extends leadframe coverage to 10 years/150,000 miles — check VIN eligibility before paying. A related PCM reprogram (recall 19S07) prevents the dangerous unintended downshift-to-first. If the leadframe checks out, diagnose the specific companion code (solenoid, valve body, wiring/connector corrosion, or low/burnt fluid). After any valve-body or solenoid work the TCM must be reflashed with the correct solenoid-body strategy or the truck will shift harshly. On 10R80 trucks, address the named companion code (often a shift-solenoid or valve-body concern) and update TCM software.
High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2009-2017 Ford F-150, the 6R80 six-speed automatic (2009-2017 F-150) is generally durable but is widely reported for a harsh, banging 1-2 upshift and erratic/flaring shifts, with thousands of NHTSA complaints. The internal solenoid body 'lead frame' (the mechatronic wiring carrier) can crack or develop failing solenoid calibration, and the adapt strategy struggles to relearn after service. The classic symptom is a 1-2 shift so abrupt owners describe it as a jolt that could 'knock a cup of coffee out of your hand.' Towing, worn fluid, and never-serviced 'lifetime' fluid accelerate the problem. It is a top transmission search for this generation.
Common Symptoms
Harsh or banging 1-2 upshift
Flaring or erratic shifts
Delayed engagement into drive/reverse
Shudder under load or while towing
Transmission fault / wrench light in severe cases
How to Fix
Start with a full fluid-and-filter service using Mercon LV (the 'lifetime fill' should still be serviced ~every 60k, sooner with towing). Have the dealer flash the PCM/TCM to the latest calibration — Ford released shift-quality calibration updates that fix many harsh/delayed-engagement complaints as the first repair. Persistent harsh shifting or specific solenoid codes call for a solenoid body / lead-frame replacement (Ford solenoid body assembly, commonly cross-referenced as Sonnax/aftermarket units). A TCM adaptive (keep-alive) reset and relearn is required after repairs. Fluid service $200-$400; solenoid body $600-$1,200 installed; valve-body/rebuild far more.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Transmission lead frame / TCM internal wiring & sensor module (root-cause part for erratic shifting, harsh upshifts and
Main control valve body assembly (with solenoids) — for persistent harsh shifting / specific solenoid codes after fluid
OEMBL3Z-7A100-BOwners useSonnax remanufactured FD6R80-2 / FD6R80-3 / FD6R80-4, Sonnax Zip Kit 6R80L-6R100-ZIP (DIY circuit-pressure fix for, FL3Z-7A100-E (Ford, later running change)$350–$1200
Confirmed via FordPartsGiant, eBay OEM listing, TN Powertrain, and Sonnax 6R80 (2009-2014) unit page. YEAR-SENSITIVE: 2015+ 6R80 uses a different valve body — Ford MB3Z-7A100-A (confirmed via OEMPartsOnline / Lakeland Ford); do n
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
Community Reported
765 owners
On the 2004-2014 Ford F-150, 2004-2014 Ford F-150 brake lines, hoses, and ABS hydraulic components corrode aggressively in salt-belt states. Steel brake lines along the frame rust through, causing sudden loss of brake fluid and reduced or no pedal feel. Front and rear hard lines and rear axle flex hoses are most commonly affected. NHTSA has received numerous complaints but no recall has been issued — replacement is owner-paid ($800-$2,000+ depending on which lines need replacing). Most failures occur after 100,000 miles in northern/coastal states; southern-state trucks rarely show the pattern. Inspect annually if you drive in salt regions.
Common Symptoms
Brake pedal fades to the floor
Sudden loss of braking power
Brake fluid loss or leaks
Rear brake hose separation
ABS light on with poor braking
How to Fix
Inspect all steel brake lines, rear flex hoses, calipers, ABS hydraulic components, and the master cylinder/booster interface for leaks or corrosion. Repairs commonly include replacing rusted lines with pre-bent or custom nickel-copper lines, new rear hoses, and sometimes a master cylinder and booster; typical cost is about $300-$1,500 depending on how much of the system is affected. Bleed the full system and verify ABS operation after repair.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Front brake hydraulic hose — early 12th gen 2009-2011
OEMMotorcraft BRHF-114Owners useDorman (verify LH/RH by config), Raybestos, Sunsong$18–$50
Verified as a 2010-2011 F-150 FRONT hose (front-left listings confirmed). F-150 front hoses split by LH/RH and by cab/drivetrain (4x2 vs 4x4) — confirm side and config before ordering.
Owners useAGS CNC-325K (NiCopp 3/16 in. x 25 ft coil + tube-nut/fittin, 4LifetimeLines 3/16 in. x 25 ft Copper-Nickel kit$30–$60
The core repair for the rusted-through frame/axle hard lines. OEM ships only pre-bent line assemblies (rarely stocked, config-specific), so the standard field fix is bendable Cu-Ni (NiCopp) tubing custom-flared to length — corrosion-proo…
TipIf the truck has frame rust, inspect brake lines immediately because corrosion-related brake failures are commonly reported together.
UpgradeNickel-copper replacement brake line is more corrosion resistant than plain steel and is a common long-term fix. (Dorman Brake Hydraulic Line Kit)
High Confidence765 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Invalid Date
On the 2011-2016 Ford F-150, the 12th-gen F-150 uses a belt/column electric power-assist steering (EPAS) system that replaced the old hydraulic pump. Owners report the dash lighting up with a 'Power Steering Assist Fault — Service Now' or wrench warning, after which the assist cuts out and the wheel becomes very heavy, often at low speed in parking lots or during a turn. The failure is usually an intermittent electrical connection or a failed torque/steering-angle sensor or the EPAS motor buried in the rack, sometimes triggered by low battery voltage or a software calibration fault. While the F-150 was not part of Ford's large 2011-2013 sedan EPAS recall (423k Flex/Taurus/MKS), the truck shares the failure mode and it is heavily reported on owner forums.
Common Symptoms
'Power Steering Assist Fault' or wrench warning on dash
Steering wheel suddenly very heavy / hard to turn
Intermittent loss of assist, often at low speed or when turning
Fault clears after restart then returns
Whining or clunk from steering when assist drops
How to Fix
Scan for EPAS/steering DTCs and check battery voltage and the C-connector at the steering gear first (a poor connection or low voltage can trip the fault without a bad rack). Reflash the PSCM with the latest Ford calibration if applicable. If the motor or internal sensor has failed, the fix is a complete steering rack/gear assembly replacement (motor is non-serviceable). Always verify charging system health before condemning the rack.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Electric power steering (EPAS) rack & pinion / steering gear assembly — 2011-2014 F-150 (P415, steel body)
Electric power steering (EPAS) rack & pinion / steering gear assembly — 2015-2016 F-150 (P552, aluminum body)
OEMGL3Z-3504-AOwners useSupersedes original Ford PN FL3Z-3504-A, Related Ford variant GL3Z-3504-B / GL3Z-3504-C (verify by bu$1200–$1966
Correct-era rack for the 13th-gen 2015-2016 F-150 — NOT interchangeable with the 2011-2014 BL3Z/EL3Z racks. Current Ford PN GL3Z-3504-A supersedes the original FL3Z-3504-A; -B/-C variants exist for different build/tow configs so confirm …
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 1997-2020 Ford F-150 All engines, f-150s have a long-running problem with rainwater entering the cab from the top rear of the cab. Two sources dominate: the foam/rubber gasket behind the high-mounted third brake light dries out and cracks, and the butyl-tape seal around the fixed rear window (or the slider track) deforms with age. Water runs down inside the cab, soaking the headliner and rear carpet and pooling behind the rear seat. Because the cab cavity drains poorly, trapped water rots the cab corners and lower rear seat area from the inside out. Owners report mildew smell, wet rear floor, foggy windows, and corroded seat-belt anchors over time. CarComplaints documents this prominently on the 2010 model year, and forum reports span the 1997-2014 trucks heavily.
Common Symptoms
Water dripping from the top of the rear window or headliner after rain or a wash
Wet rear carpet or water pooling behind the rear seat
Musty/mildew smell and interior fogging
Stained or sagging headliner at the rear
Rust forming at the lower rear cab corners
How to Fix
Pinpoint the source with a careful water test from the bottom up. If the third brake light is the source, remove it and replace the foam gasket and reseal (a common, inexpensive fix). If the rear window is leaking, the back glass must be reset with fresh butyl tape/urethane, or a cracked slider seal replaced. Dry the headliner and carpet thoroughly and treat any cab-corner rust before it perforates; verify cab drain paths are clear. Typical parts+labor for the gasket/reseal runs roughly $100-$300; bodywork for resulting rust is far more.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Center high-mount stop lamp (CHMSL / third brake light) seal — the failed foam gasket behind the third brake light, the
Dorman OE-FIX seal is the go-to repair part for the third-brake-light leak: a thicker, more durable EPDM foam gasket that replaces the failed factory seal WITHOUT replacing the whole lamp. Confirmed price $16.49 at AutoZone.
3M 08612 Windo-Weld Round Ribbon Sealer, 3/8" x 15 ft kit — the butyl rope forum-recommended for resetting the F-150 fixed rear window when the factory butyl seal deforms with age. Butyl rope is generally preferred over tube sealant for …
3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane, 10.5 fl oz cartridge — medium-viscosity, non-sag, high-strength fast-cure urethane for permanently bonding stationary glass. This is the 'or urethane' alternative to butyl for resetting a leaking back glass;…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2004-2017 Ford F-150 All engines, f-150 rocker panels and cab corners rust from the inside out. The rocker design traps road debris and moisture inside the panel, and clogged drain holes let water pool where it cannot escape, so corrosion starts behind the paint and bubbles outward before owners realize the structure underneath is rotting. Left unaddressed, the rockers and cab corners perforate, running boards/door brackets can detach, and rear doors may stop closing properly. This is documented across 2004-2008 and 2009-2014 trucks (CarComplaints flags the 2010 rockers) and continues to be a salt-belt complaint. It is distinct from the heavy frame/leaf-spring-shackle rust already catalogued — this is the cab sheet metal (rockers, lower doors, cab corners), and full rocker replacement can exceed $4,000.
Common Symptoms
Paint bubbling along the rocker panels and lower cab corners
Perforation/holes appearing at the bottom of the cab
Running boards or door brackets loosening or falling off
Rear doors not closing squarely
Visible rust behind/inside the rocker when inspected
How to Fix
Keep rocker and door drain holes clear of debris so trapped water can escape — the single best preventive step. Treat surface rust early with conversion and seal; once panels perforate, the fix is cutting out the rusted section and welding in rocker/cab-corner patch panels, then refinishing. In the salt belt, periodic underbody/cavity rinsing and a cavity-wax treatment slow internal corrosion. Inspect from inside the panel, not just the painted surface, since the rust starts hidden.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
The primary weld-in repair part once the rocker perforates. Genuine Ford OEM outer rocker is side-specific: EL3Z-16211A81-A = LH/driver, EL3Z-16211A80-A = RH/passenger (2009-2014 F-150); these are full structural panels and run ~$830 (30…
Owners useKey Parts 1989-113 (LH crew cab), Key Parts 1989-114 (RH crew cab), Key Parts 1989-115 (LH std cab)$35–$90
No confirmed Ford genuine OEM cab-corner service PN (cab corners are part of the larger cab/aperture stamping at the dealer, not a standalone OEM part), so oemPartNumber left empty per rules.
The FIX calls for treating surface rust with a converter and seal before/around the welded repair. 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter 3513 (1 qt, water-based, converts rust to a black primer-sealer) runs ~$82-$111/qt.
The FIX names cavity-wax treatment as the preventive step — sprayed inside the rocker/cab-corner after repair (and into clean drain cavities) to stop the inside-out corrosion that caused the failure. 3M Cavity Wax Plus 08852 (18 oz aeros…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2009-2024 Ford F-150, the foam gasket that seals the roof-mounted center high-mount stop lamp (CHMSL / third brake light) against the cab dries out, compresses and shrinks with heat and UV exposure, breaking the watertight seal. Rainwater then runs down inside the cab from the roof opening, soaking the headliner, rear seat area and carpet, and can corrode wiring or foster mold. It is one of the most widely reported non-powertrain complaints across multiple F-150 generations. Ford has issued TSBs on this failure over the years (e.g., 04-20-5 on the 2004 truck) and now sells an updated lamp assembly with a thicker gasket, tacitly acknowledging the original design flaw. NOTE: there is NO confirmed Ford 10-year/150,000-mile warranty extension for this repair — that program (TSB 23-074-23 / warranty extension XG1) belongs to RAM/Stellantis and was mistakenly attributed to Ford in some sources.
Common Symptoms
Water stains or wet spots on the headliner, especially rear corners
Damp or soaked carpet/floor behind the rear seats
Condensation or fog on the inside of the rear window
Water or condensation visible inside the third brake light housing
Musty/moldy smell in the cab after rain or a car wash
Occasional intermittent third brake light electrical failure from corrosion
How to Fix
Replace the CHMSL/third brake light assembly with the updated OEM lamp that uses a thicker, more durable gasket, or reseal the housing with fresh butyl tape (preferred over RTV so the bulb can still be serviced). Dry out and inspect the headliner and rear cab for water damage. Typically an inexpensive DIY or dealer repair; unlike RAM, Ford has no broad warranty-extension program covering it, so check individual model-year TSBs and any active coverage with a dealer.
High ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2004-2020 Ford F-150, ford modular V8s (and the EcoBoost V6 turbo manifolds) are notorious for snapping the small (8mm) exhaust-manifold-to-head studs/bolts. They are installed without anti-seize and corrode/fatigue from repeated heat cycling; on the turbo EcoBoost engines, a large share of the turbo/manifold weight hangs off the fasteners. The classic symptom is a ticking/tapping noise that is loudest on a cold start (when the manifold gap is widest) and fades as the engine warms and metal expands — caused by exhaust escaping past the broken fastener. It is a heavily-searched DIY topic because fasteners that break flush with the head are difficult to extract.
Common Symptoms
Ticking/tapping that is loud on cold start and quiets when warm
Exhaust smell or sound near the engine
Soot streaks at the manifold-to-head flange
Reduced power / drone in severe leaks
How to Fix
Confirm the leak (cold-start tick, soot/black streaking at the manifold flange). Replace broken studs/bolts with a hardware kit using anti-seize; studs snapped flush must be drilled out with a left-hand cobalt bit (often a 90-degree drill) and may require an EZ-out or, worst case, head removal. Inspect/replace the manifold gasket. Common parts: Dorman exhaust manifold hardware kits 03408 (gas V8) and 03430 (4.6/5.4 3V) plus OEM studs. Hardware $20-$60; professional repair commonly $300-$700, more if studs break flush or the manifold is cracked.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Exhaust manifold gasket (4.6L/5.4L 3V V8) — replace when reinstalling the manifold after stud/bolt repair
OEM9L3Z-9448-AOwners useFel-Pro MS96011, Mahle MS19443, Victor Reinz 11-10573-01$12–$35
Confirmed genuine Ford OEM exhaust manifold gasket for 4.6L/5.4L 3V engines (F-150, F-250/F-350, Lincoln Mark LT/Navigator, approx. Newer 5.0L Coyote / 6.2L trucks use a different gasket (FR3Z-9448-A) — do not substitute.
Exhaust manifold mounting hardware kit — gas V8 (bolt/stud/nut assortment)
Owners useDorman 03408$20–$50
Confirmed Dorman 03408 exhaust manifold hardware kit (3/8-16 and 3/8-24 thread): contains ~9 bolts, 2 studs, 2 nuts, 2 spacers, 2 washers for securing the manifold to the head on select gas V8s. Dorman publishes it as a general gas-V8 ma…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2011-2024 Ford F-150, both the 3.5L and 2.7L EcoBoost turbos use exhaust wastegates whose actuator arm/linkage develops play as the bushings wear. The result is a distinctive metallic rattle — most noticeable for the first ~30-60 seconds after a cold start and at light throttle — coming from the turbo area. It is one of the most-searched EcoBoost noises because it sounds alarming but is usually a wear/NVH issue rather than an immediate failure. Ford has issued TSBs: 3.5L wastegate-rattle bulletins and a 2025 TSB for 2024 2.7L trucks (built on/before Oct 4, 2024) where a missing wave spring between the wastegate actuator lever arm and the turbine housing causes the rattle on both turbos.
Common Symptoms
Metallic rattle from turbo area on cold start (~30-60 sec)
Rattle at light throttle / tip-in
Noise diminishes once engine warms
No performance loss in early stages
How to Fix
Confirm the noise originates at the turbo wastegate (not the timing chain or cam phasers). Per Ford's 2.7L TSB, the repair is installing wave springs between the wastegate actuator lever arms and turbine housings on both turbochargers. For worn 3.5L actuators with excessive arm play, the fix is a new wastegate actuator or, in severe cases, turbocharger replacement under warranty. Often deferred if purely cosmetic noise. Wave-spring/actuator repair typically $150-$600; turbo replacement is far more but usually warranty-covered when within coverage.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
THE canonical fix for the 2.7L wastegate rattle. Per Ford TSB 25-2215 (supersedes 25-2008, 2024 F-150 2.7L built on/before 04-Oct-2024), the rattle is caused by a MISSING wave spring between the wastegate actuator lever arm and turbine h…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2004-2020 Ford F-150, the rear axle (commonly the 8.8-inch) develops a speed-dependent whine or howl as the pinion bearing and ring-and-pinion gears wear, often the most common source of axle noise on Ford trucks. The noise typically appears under acceleration or on deceleration and changes with throttle. On limited-slip units, worn clutch packs add a chatter or shudder during slow tight turns. Neglected or contaminated gear oil, and never-changed fluid, accelerate the wear.
Common Symptoms
Speed-dependent whine/howl from the rear
Noise changes with acceleration vs. coast
Chatter or shudder in slow tight turns (limited slip)
Metal shavings in gear oil
Growl or rumble that worsens over time
How to Fix
Check fluid level and condition first (metal shavings = internal wear). For clutch-pack chatter, drain and refill with the correct gear oil plus Ford friction modifier. For bearing/gear whine, pull the diff cover and inspect; a howling pinion bearing or worn ring-and-pinion requires a rebuild with new bearings and proper pinion preload/backlash setup. Replace limited-slip clutches if chattering persists.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Bearing/whine repair requires new pinion (and usually carrier) bearings, crush sleeve, and shims to reset pinion preload/backlash. Master kits bundle these with a pinion seal.
Ford OEM Motorcraft pinion seal, confirmed via parts.ford.com and OEM listings; fits 1995-2014/2018 F-150 8.8 (also Mustang/Explorer 8.8). 2015-2020 Super 8.8 may use a different seal — verify against that axle before ordering.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2004-2024 Ford F-150, ford's 4x4 F-150s use a vacuum-operated Integrated Wheel End (IWE) system instead of conventional locking hubs: vacuum keeps the front hubs UNLOCKED in 2WD and is released to lock them for 4WD. The system relies on vacuum lines, a hood-area solenoid, and a check valve that are highly vulnerable to water, road salt, and cracking. A single leak causes the hubs to partially engage, producing a loud grinding or clicking from the front wheels under acceleration/deceleration in 2WD — a hallmark symptom that typically disappears in 4-Auto/4-High because removing vacuum fully locks the hub. It is among the most-searched F-150 4x4 noise complaints and is covered by TSBs 20-2028 and 24-2189A.
Common Symptoms
Grinding or clicking from front wheels in 2WD
Noise on acceleration/deceleration
Noise disappears when switched to 4WD
Grinding worse after rain or in winter/salt
4WD fails to fully engage
How to Fix
Diagnose in steps: replace the cheap IWE check valve first, inspect/replace cracked vacuum lines and the IWE solenoid (often water-drenched below the cowl), then replace the IWE hub-lock actuators themselves if grinding persists. Confirm it is the IWE and not a failed wheel hub/bearing (IWE noise goes away in 4WD; a bad bearing does not). OEM IWE actuator part numbers: 7L1Z-3C247-A (2004-2014) and HL1Z-3C247-A (2015+); check valve and solenoid sold separately. Check valve ~$15-$40; actuators ~$80-$180 each; full system repair commonly $200-$700 with labor.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
IWE vacuum check valve (in-line vacuum check valve, the cheap first-step fix that restores vacuum to the IWE actuators)
OEMAL3Z-19A563-AOwners useMotorcraft YG429 (2010-2012, the IWE check valve), Motorcraft YG360 / XR3Z-19A563-AA / E4EH-19A563-AA (2004-200, BL3Z-3A788-A (2013-2014)$10–$40
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 2009-2014 Ford F-150 All (electrical, engine-independent), the driver's door master switch on 2009-2014 F-150s commonly fails electrically (distinct from the mechanical window-regulator/cable failure). Carbon builds up on the internal contacts from current arcing, and the switch's exposed door-panel location lets moisture in when the window is lowered in rain — both degrade the contacts. Because the master switch and the front passenger switch share wiring splices, a failing master can leave one or both front windows dead (or stuck moving), while the rear or passenger-door switches still work. Owners also report a window stuck in one position because a shorted switch constantly commands the motor. It is a high-volume, low-cost search/DIY item for this generation.
Common Symptoms
One or both front windows won't operate from the master switch
Window stuck up or down
Window operates from one switch but not the master
Intermittent operation, worse when wet
How to Fix
Test for power and ground at the switch and inspect the connector for corrosion/moisture before condemning it. The usual fix is to replace the driver's master window switch assembly (cleaning carbon-fouled contacts is a temporary fix at best). Check the relevant fuse first. OEM part numbers: 9L3Z-14529-AD / 9L3Z-14529-AE (2009-2010) and BL3T-14540-AAW for 2011-2014. Aftermarket switches are inexpensive. Switch $25-$90; about a 30-60 minute DIY, or ~$100-$200 at a shop.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Driver's door master power window switch — 2009-2010 F-150 (6+6 pin connector, window-only or with integrated lock per t
OEM9L3Z-14529-ADOwners use9L3Z-14529-AE (Ford supersession/alt service no.), SWITCHDOCTOR (B08TYT3GJZ), Obaee (B0BKV9YB4F)$22–$60
Genuine Ford service numbers 9L3Z-14529-AD and 9L3Z-14529-AE both confirmed across multiple listings for the 2009-2010 F-150 front-left driver master switch (6+6 / '1 Auto' pin pattern).
Driver's door master power window switch — 2011-2014 F-150 (11-pin / 7+4-pin connector, master control with auto/lock/do
OEMBL3Z-14529-BAOwners useBL3T-14540-AAW (Ford component/casting no., same part), Dorman 901-229, Standard Motor Products DWS-1584$30–$90
VERIFIED. The genuine Ford catalog/service number is BL3Z-14529-BA ('Switch-Window Control-Double'); the same physical part carries the component/casting number BL3T-14540-AAW that appears molded on the unit — both refer to the one drive…
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
On the 1997-2014 Ford F-150, the door-ajar switch built into the door latch sticks or corrodes so the truck thinks a door is open. The result is a 'door ajar' warning that stays on, interior/dome lights that won't shut off, chimes, and a parasitic battery drain that can leave the truck dead overnight. It is one of the most common and widely searched F-150 electrical annoyances across many model years, and is usually a very cheap fix.
Common Symptoms
'Door Ajar' warning stays on with doors shut
Dome/interior lights won't turn off
Dead or weak battery in the morning
Chime or courtesy lights cycling
Fault clears temporarily then returns
How to Fix
Isolate which door by watching the message center as you cycle each latch. Spray the latch/switch with a penetrant or electrical/brake cleaner and cycle the door 10-20 times to free the contacts — this fixes most cases. If it recurs, replace the door-ajar/jamb switch or the door latch assembly. Verify the interior lights and drain are gone with a parasitic draw test.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Electrical contact cleaner (free the stuck door-ajar switch — the primary fix)
For 2009-2014 F-150 the ajar switch is integrated in the sealed latch — replace the latch. 9L3Z-5421812-A = LH front, 9L3Z-5421813-A = RH front; BL3Z-5421812-A/-813-A are later supersessions.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2011-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost V6, the 3.5L EcoBoost's high-pressure direct (GDI) injectors run at diesel-like pressures and are a common failure item, especially at higher mileage and after heat-soak. A stuck-open or electrically failing injector floods a cylinder and can wash down neighboring cylinders on the same bank, producing a cold-start misfire that often smooths out once warm. It commonly sets injector-circuit codes (P0201-P0206) alongside misfire codes (P0300-P0308) and occasionally a total-misfire/knock code. It is frequently misdiagnosed as coils or plugs before the injector is found.
Common Symptoms
Cold-start misfire / stumble that smooths when warm
Rough idle and hesitation on acceleration
Check-engine light, often flashing on start
Fuel smell from exhaust, poor fuel economy
Single-cylinder or same-bank multi-cylinder misfire
How to Fix
Read freeze-frame and identify the specific cylinder; compare fuel-injector balance/contribution data. Swap or replace the failed GDI injector (intake manifold removal required for access) and inspect for fuel-washed plugs. Replace plugs/coils on the affected cylinder if fouled. Verify high-pressure fuel pump output and low-side pressure to rule out supply issues before replacing multiple injectors.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
Upper intake manifold / plenum gasket set (required for injector access)
OEMAT4Z-9H486-AOwners useHL3Z-9H486-A (2017+ intake manifold gasket set w/ air-crosso, Fel-Pro MS 98016, Dorman 615-380 (manifold w/ gaskets)$15–$45
Consumable gasket needed because the plastic upper intake manifold must be removed to reach the direct injectors on the 3.5L V6. AT4Z-9H486-A covers 2011-2024 3.3/3.5/3.7L plenum.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jul 2026
On the 2011-2020 Ford F-150, the EVAP canister purge valve (purge solenoid) on F-150s commonly sticks in the open position, allowing raw fuel vapor from the charcoal canister to be pulled into the intake when it shouldn't be. This floods the cylinders with vapor — owners report a vehicle that cranks but won't start (or stumbles badly) immediately after filling the tank, then runs fine once it clears. A stuck-open or leaking purge valve, along with cracked/collapsed lines between the canister, valve, and intake manifold, is the most common trigger for P0496 (EVAP flow during a non-purge condition) and a frequent cause of P0455/P0442 large/small leak codes. Ford issued TSB 19-2132 covering loose EVAP hose connections on 2018-2019 trucks. The check-engine light is the usual first symptom; drivability impact ranges from none to hard-start/rough-idle. The real OEM purge valve part number is AU5Z-9C915-B (aftermarket cross-refs: Dorman 911-222, Standard CP1-prefix units).
Common Symptoms
Check engine light with P0496, P0455, P0442, or P0446
Hard start or no-start immediately after filling the fuel tank
Rough or hunting idle that clears after the engine warms
Slight loss of fuel economy
Hissing or fuel-vapor smell near the engine
How to Fix
Verify with a smoke test before replacing parts — roughly 30% of P0455/P0456 codes are a loose or cracked gas cap, so reseat/replace the cap and clear first. If the purge valve fails to hold vacuum when commanded closed (it should seal), it is leaking and must be replaced. Inspect the rubber lines from the canister to the valve and to the intake for cracks/collapse and reseat loose connections per TSB 19-2132. After repair, clear codes and complete a drive cycle to allow the EVAP monitor to re-run. The purge valve sits near the throttle body/intake and is a quick R&R; expect roughly $25-$70 for the part plus labor.
What you need to fix it
The exact parts — OEM, plus what owners actually use. Skip the internet hunt.
OEM AU5Z-9C915-B (MSRP ~$64.73, Ford dealer sale ~$41-43) covers 2011-2017 F-150 and many Ford/Lincoln/Mercury apps (Mustang, Explorer, Edge, F-250/350); confirmed live on FordPartsGiant, Amazon, eBay.
Medium ConfidenceVerified0 reportsLast reported by owners Invalid DateReviewed Jun 2026
Campaign #24V85200008/11/2024
STEERING
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2024 F-150 vehicles. The steering gear assembly may have been assembled with an incorrect rack, which can cause the gears to fracture.
What is the 2011-2014 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Intercooler Condensation Causing Shudder and Limp Mode?
On first-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s, the front-mounted charge air cooler (intercooler) over-cools intake air below its dew point in humid weather, allowing condensation to pool inside the intercooler housing. Under hard acceleration the accumulated water is drawn into the co… Repairs typically run $0-$350. Severity: high.
What is the 2011-2016 Ford F-150 Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Assist Fault — Sudden Loss of Power Steering Assist?
The 12th-gen F-150 uses a belt/column electric power-assist steering (EPAS) system that replaced the old hydraulic pump. Owners report the dash lighting up with a 'Power Steering Assist Fault — Service Now' or wrench warning, after which the assist cuts out and the wheel becomes… Repairs typically run $1,000-$1,900. Severity: high.
What is the 2011-2017 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Primary Timing Chain Stretch — P0016 and Cold-Start Rattle?
Distinct from the cam-phaser cold-start rattle, the first-generation (2011-2016) 3.5L EcoBoost suffers genuine primary timing-chain wear ('stretch') because of its long chain routing and the high loads of a twin-turbo direct-injection V6. As the chain pins and rollers wear, the c… Repairs typically run $1,800-$3,200. Severity: high.
What is the 2011-2024 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Turbocharger Wastegate Failure — Stuck Wastegate / Reduced Engine Power?
The wastegate on the 3.5L EcoBoost turbochargers fails, either sticking (carbon/corrosion binding the valve and actuator arm) on early vacuum-operated designs or through electronic actuator/position-sensor faults on 2015-and-newer electric-actuator turbos. A stuck-closed wastegat… Repairs typically run $1,800-$5,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2011-2020 Ford F-150 P0700 — Transmission Control System Malfunction (MIL Request) from Failed 6R80 Molded Leadframe?
On the F-150, P0700 is a generic "MIL request" companion code the PCM stores whenever the transmission control strategy has logged an underlying transmission fault — it points to a problem but never names it by itself. On the extremely common 6R80 six-speed automatic (F-150 2011-… Repairs typically run $300-$1,200. Severity: high.
What is the 2011-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Fuel Injector Failure — Startup Misfire, Rough Idle, and Fuel-Injector DTCs?
The 3.5L EcoBoost's high-pressure direct (GDI) injectors run at diesel-like pressures and are a common failure item, especially at higher mileage and after heat-soak. A stuck-open or electrically failing injector floods a cylinder and can wash down neighboring cylinders on the sa… Repairs typically run $650-$1,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2009-2017 Ford F-150 6R80 6-Speed Automatic Harsh 1-2 Upshift / Erratic Shifting and Lead-Frame Solenoid Body Failure?
The 6R80 six-speed automatic (2009-2017 F-150) is generally durable but is widely reported for a harsh, banging 1-2 upshift and erratic/flaring shifts, with thousands of NHTSA complaints. The internal solenoid body 'lead frame' (the mechatronic wiring carrier) can crack or develo… Repairs typically run $250-$1,500. Severity: medium.
What is the 2004-2020 Ford F-150 Exhaust Manifold Studs / Bolts Break — Exhaust Leak and Cold-Start Ticking?
Ford modular V8s (and the EcoBoost V6 turbo manifolds) are notorious for snapping the small (8mm) exhaust-manifold-to-head studs/bolts. They are installed without anti-seize and corrode/fatigue from repeated heat cycling; on the turbo EcoBoost engines, a large share of the turbo/… Repairs typically run $50-$700. Severity: medium.
What is the 2004-2020 Ford F-150 Rear Differential Pinion Bearing / Ring-and-Pinion Whine and Howl?
The rear axle (commonly the 8.8-inch) develops a speed-dependent whine or howl as the pinion bearing and ring-and-pinion gears wear, often the most common source of axle noise on Ford trucks. The noise typically appears under acceleration or on deceleration and changes with throt… Repairs typically run $500-$1,600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2011-2025 Ford F-150 EcoBoost Turbo Underboost (P0299) — Boost Leaks, Bypass Valve Diaphragm, and Warped Air Deflector?
P0299 sets when actual boost is about 4 psi or more below the commanded value for several seconds, dropping the truck into reduced-power limp mode (orange wrench light). On EcoBoost F-150s the most common causes are NOT the turbos themselves but cheaper upstream parts: a loose or… Repairs typically run $50-$700. Severity: medium.
What is the 2011-2016 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost (Gen 1) Intake Valve Carbon Buildup — Misfire, Rough Idle, Power Loss?
First-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s use direct injection only (no port injection), so fuel never washes the back of the intake valves. Oil vapor from the PCV system bakes onto the valves and forms hard carbon deposits that restrict airflow and disturb valve sealing. Owners typi… Repairs typically run $400-$900. Severity: medium.
What is the 1997-2020 Ford F-150 Water Leak at Rear Window / Third Brake Light — Wet Headliner, Carpet, and Cab-Corner Rust?
F-150s have a long-running problem with rainwater entering the cab from the top rear of the cab. Two sources dominate: the foam/rubber gasket behind the high-mounted third brake light dries out and cracks, and the butyl-tape seal around the fixed rear window (or the slider track)… Repairs typically run $100-$600. Severity: medium.
What is the 2004-2017 Ford F-150 Rocker Panel and Cab-Corner Rust from Clogged Internal Drains?
F-150 rocker panels and cab corners rust from the inside out. The rocker design traps road debris and moisture inside the panel, and clogged drain holes let water pool where it cannot escape, so corrosion starts behind the paint and bubbles outward before owners realize the struc… Repairs typically run $300-$4,000. Severity: medium.
What is the 2009-2024 Ford F-150 Center High-Mount Stop Lamp (Third Brake Light) Gasket Leak — Water Intrusion into Cab?
The foam gasket that seals the roof-mounted center high-mount stop lamp (CHMSL / third brake light) against the cab dries out, compresses and shrinks with heat and UV exposure, breaking the watertight seal. Rainwater then runs down inside the cab from the roof opening, soaking th… Repairs typically run $40-$250. Severity: medium.
What is the 2004-2024 Ford F-150 IWE (Integrated Wheel End) Failure — Front-End Grinding and Partial 4x4 Hub Engagement?
Ford's 4x4 F-150s use a vacuum-operated Integrated Wheel End (IWE) system instead of conventional locking hubs: vacuum keeps the front hubs UNLOCKED in 2WD and is released to lock them for 4WD. The system relies on vacuum lines, a hood-area solenoid, and a check valve that are hi… Repairs typically run $100-$700. Severity: medium.
What is the 2011-2020 Ford F-150 EVAP Canister Purge Valve Stuck Open — Hard Start After Refueling, Rough Idle, P0455/P0496?
The EVAP canister purge valve (purge solenoid) on F-150s commonly sticks in the open position, allowing raw fuel vapor from the charcoal canister to be pulled into the intake when it shouldn't be. This floods the cylinders with vapor — owners report a vehicle that cranks but won'… Repairs typically run $60-$320. Severity: low.
What is the 2009-2014 Ford F-150 Driver's Door Master Power Window Switch Failure?
The driver's door master switch on 2009-2014 F-150s commonly fails electrically (distinct from the mechanical window-regulator/cable failure). Carbon builds up on the internal contacts from current arcing, and the switch's exposed door-panel location lets moisture in when the win… Repairs typically run $25-$200. Severity: low.
What is the 1997-2014 Ford F-150 Door Ajar Switch Sticks — Dome Lights Stay On and Battery Drain?
The door-ajar switch built into the door latch sticks or corrodes so the truck thinks a door is open. The result is a 'door ajar' warning that stays on, interior/dome lights that won't shut off, chimes, and a parasitic battery drain that can leave the truck dead overnight. It is… Repairs typically run $40-$200. Severity: low.
What is the 2011-2024 Ford F-150 EcoBoost Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Rattle?
Both the 3.5L and 2.7L EcoBoost turbos use exhaust wastegates whose actuator arm/linkage develops play as the bushings wear. The result is a distinctive metallic rattle — most noticeable for the first ~30-60 seconds after a cold start and at light throttle — coming from the turbo… Repairs typically run $150-$700. Severity: low.
