According to Au7o's analysis of 13,387+ owner reports, the 1997-2026 Ford F-150 has 94 documented known issues, with 47 rated critical. The most serious are Spark Plug Thread Blowout ($150-$500 repair), Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150) ($300-$1,500 repair), Brake Vacuum Pump Failure (EcoBoost) ($300-$800 repair), Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) Corrosion and No-Start / Stalling ($150-$450 repair), Severe Frame Rust and Rear Frame/Leaf Spring Shackle Corrosion ($500-$6,000 repair), Throttle Body / Electronic Throttle Stalling and Hesitation ($150-$700 repair), Cruise Control Deactivation Switch Fire Risk, Driver Airbag Clockspring / Airbag Warning and Non-Deployment ($250-$900 repair), Front Coil Spring Fractures from Corrosion — Snaps and Punctures Front Tire (11th-Gen Salt-Belt).
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: INTEGRATED TRAILER BRAKE CONTROL
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2021-2026 F-150, 2022-2026 F-250 SD, F-350 SD, F-450 SD, F-550 SD, Maverick, 2024-2026 Ranger, 2023-2026 F-600 SD, 2022-2027 Lincoln Navigator, Expedition, and 2026 E-Transit vehicles. When towing a trailer, the integrated trailer module (ITRM) may lose communication with the vehicle, possibly causing a loss of brake and turn signal lights, or a loss of brake function. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 108, " Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment."
Campaign #26V10400020/02/2026
STRUCTURE:BODY
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2026 Maverick, F-150, and Bronco Sport vehicles. Certain vehicle joints may be improperly tightened. This can lead to detached parts, unsecured cargo, degraded crash protection, electrical system failure, or a loss of vehicle stability.
Campaign #26V55000025/08/2026
POWER TRAIN:DRIVELINE:DIFFERENTIAL UNIT
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2026 F-150 vehicles. Incorrect rear axle tail bearings may have been installed, which can result in rear wheel lock-up or driveshaft separation.
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According to Au7o's analysis of 13,387+ owner reports, the 1997-2026 Ford F-150 has 94 documented issues. The most frequently reported are: Spark Plug Thread Blowout, Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150), Brake Vacuum Pump Failure (EcoBoost). Of these, 47 are rated critical and should be addressed promptly.
Is the Ford F-150 reliable?
The 1997-2026 Ford F-150 has 94 known issues documented across 13,387+ owner reports. 47 issues are rated critical: Spark Plug Thread Blowout and Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150) and Brake Vacuum Pump Failure (EcoBoost) and Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) Corrosion and No-Start / Stalling and Severe Frame Rust and Rear Frame/Leaf Spring Shackle Corrosion and Throttle Body / Electronic Throttle Stalling and Hesitation and Cruise Control Deactivation Switch Fire Risk and Driver Airbag Clockspring / Airbag Warning and Non-Deployment and Front Coil Spring Fractures from Corrosion — Snaps and Punctures Front Tire (11th-Gen Salt-Belt) and Instrument Panel Cluster Fails at Startup — Blank Gauges, No Speedometer or Warning Lights and Positive Battery Cable / BMS Terminal Connection Loosens — Stall, Lost Power Assist, and Fire Risk (Recall 19S40 / NHTSA 19V805) and Corroded Fuel Pump Driver Module Sets Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault and Carbon-Coked Idle Air Control Valve Causing Stalling at Stops and Electronic Throttle Body Actuator Failure Drops the Truck Into Forced Idle and In-Tank Fuel Pump Failure — Whining, Hard Starting, Stalling Under Load, and No-Start and Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft Fasteners Improperly Attached — Shaft Can Detach and Incorrectly Machined Transmission Valve Body — Reverse Gear Failure and Unexpected Forward Movement in Reverse or Neutral and Electronic Brake Booster (EBB) Module Malfunction — Sudden Loss of Power Brake Assist and 3.5L EcoBoost cam phaser rattle on cold start and 4.6L / 5.4L 2-Valve Triton Timing Chain Tensioner and Plastic Guide Rattle and Internal Radiator Transmission Cooler Fails — Coolant/ATF Cross-Contamination ('Strawberry Milkshake') and 3.0L Power Stroke Diesel CP4.2 High-Pressure Fuel Pump Catastrophic Failure (Fuel System Contamination) and 3.5L EcoBoost Primary Timing Chain Stretch — P0016 and Cold-Start Rattle and 10R80 10-speed transmission harsh/erratic shifting and torque-converter shudder and 2.7L EcoBoost Coolant Intrusion from Cracked Cylinder Head and 3.5L EcoBoost Intercooler Condensation Causing Shudder and Limp Mode and 3.5L EcoBoost Turbocharger Wastegate Failure — Stuck Wastegate / Reduced Engine Power and 3.5L PowerBoost Hybrid Exhaust Heat Exchanger Coolant Leak and 4R70W / 4R75W Automatic Transmission Failure — No Reverse, Loss of Forward Gears, and Slipping and 5.4L Triton 3-Valve Cam Phaser / Timing Chain "Death Rattle" and Brake Master Cylinder Fluid Leak into Booster Causing Front Brake Loss and Brake master cylinder fluid leak / loss of front brake function and Door latch failure - doors won't latch or open while driving and Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Assist Fault — Sudden Loss of Power Steering Assist and Front seat belt pretensioner fire risk and Fuel Tank Strap Corrosion — Straps Rust and Break, Tank Can Drop (Recall 11S21 / NHTSA 11V385) and Integrated Trailer Module Loses Communication — Loss of Trailer Brakes, Turn Signals, and Brake Lights While Towing (NHTSA 26V104) and Lower Ball Joint Premature Wear and Separation — Front Clunk and Loss of Steering Control (11th Gen) and P0700 — Transmission Control System Malfunction (MIL Request) from Failed 6R80 Molded Leadframe and PowerBoost Hybrid High-Voltage Battery Junction Box Fuse — Sudden Loss of Drive Power (2025) and Rear Axle Hub Bolt Fatigues and Breaks — Vehicle Rollaway in Park / Loss of Drive Power (Recall 25S82 / NHTSA 25V512) and Rearview Camera Image Freezes, Blacks Out, or Delays When Reversing (SYNC 4 Recall 25S49 / NHTSA 25V315) and Speed Control Deactivation Switch Underhood Fire (Recall 05V388) and 3.5L EcoBoost Misaligned Engine Cup Plug — Rapid Oil Loss, Stall and Fire Risk and Defective Connecting Rods and Rod Bearings — Engine Damage and Stall and F-150 Lightning High-Voltage Battery Cell Defect — Internal Short Circuit and Fire Risk (Recall 25S18 / NHTSA 25V234) and Rearview Camera Shows a Blank Image or Stays On After Reversing (Recall 25S72 / NHTSA 25V442). Prospective buyers should inspect for these issues and factor potential repair costs into their purchase decision. Regular maintenance following the manufacturer's schedule helps prevent many common problems.
Content on this page was compiled with AI assistance using NHTSA complaints, TSBs, owner reports, and public automotive data. While we strive for accuracy, this information may contain errors. Always verify repair procedures and specifications with your vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic.
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Community reported
1,523 owners
The aluminum cylinder heads on Triton V8 engines have only 4 threads for spark plugs instead of the standard 8-10. This can cause spark plugs to blow out of the head, damaging threads. Helicoil repair kits are available.
Common Symptoms
Loud popping noise from engine
Sudden loss of power
Engine misfire on one cylinder
Spark plug ejected from engine
How to Fix
If not yet blown out: Use anti-seize compound on spark plug threads, torque to spec (11-15 ft-lbs), and change plugs every 30k miles. If blown out: Install a Helicoil or Time-Sert thread repair kit ($50-150 DIY, $150-500 at shop). Preventive repair kits are also available to reinforce threads before failure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Spark Plug
Cross-ref6747
Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
High ConfidenceVerified1,523 owner reportsLast reported by owners Jan 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
Community reported
308 owners
Multiple complaints describe the truck stalling in traffic, hesitating on throttle input, or losing power while slowing, idling, reversing, or attempting to accelerate. Several reports specifically mention the throttle body as the cause, with symptoms consistent with electronic throttle control faults or severe throttle body contamination/failure.
Common Symptoms
Engine stalls in traffic
Hesitation when pressing accelerator
Loss of power while slowing down
Stalls in reverse or at idle
Puttering or shudder before power loss
How to Fix
Scan for throttle-related faults, inspect the throttle body for carbon buildup or sticking, and verify throttle position and pedal signals. Repairs range from cleaning the throttle body and performing a relearn to replacing the throttle body assembly or related sensors; typical cost is about $150-$700. Wiring and connector condition should also be checked if the failure is intermittent.
High Confidence308 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
On 1997-2003 F-150 pickups with the 4.6L and 5.4L Triton modular V8, P1507 is most often set by a mechanically restricted idle air bypass circuit rather than by an electrical fault in the IAC circuit, though wiring and connector faults are a documented minority cause and should not be ruled out. The IAC valve on these trucks is a solenoid-operated pintle valve bolted to the side of the throttle body, and it meters the air the engine breathes when the throttle plate is closed. Because the PCV system routes crankcase vapor into the intake tract just upstream of the throttle body, oil mist and blow-by soot condense on the throttle bore and migrate into the IAC's bypass passage. Over high mileage that residue bakes into a hard varnish that narrows the passage and gums the pintle so it no longer opens the full commanded distance. The PCM watches actual idle RPM against its target and, when it commands the IAC toward wide open and idle still sits well below target, it stores P1507 as an underspeed error. The distinguishing evidence is behavioral: the truck idles acceptably cold, when the PCM is running a higher fast-idle target and the small amount of bypass air still available is enough, and then falls on its face once the engine reaches operating temperature and the target drops. Adding accessory load makes it worse, so owners typically report the stall when the A/C compressor cycles on, when the alternator is loaded, or when power steering pressure rises. A secondary contributor is an unmetered vacuum leak - a split PCV elbow or a cracked intake hose - which makes the PCM close the IAC to compensate and can drive the same underspeed logic; P1507 alongside P0171/P0174 lean codes points that direction instead. Repeat offenders are common: owners report replacing the IAC only to have P1507 come straight back, usually because the throttle body bore and the bypass passage itself were never cleaned, or because the fault was in the harness rather than the valve.
Common Symptoms
Engine stalls when coming to a stop
Idle drops below 500 RPM once engine is warm
Stalling when the A/C compressor engages
Rough or shaky idle in gear
Must hold throttle with one foot to keep engine running
Check engine light on
Hard restart immediately after a stall
How to Fix
Start by pulling the IAC valve - two bolts on the throttle body - and inspecting the pintle and seat. If the seat is coated with black varnish and the pintle is sticky, clean both the valve and, critically, the throttle body bore and the bypass passage the valve seals against, using throttle body cleaner and a soft brush; keep solvent out of the valve's electrical section. Cleaning alone is a legitimate repair on these trucks, but if the pintle spring is weak or the solenoid windings are out of spec on a resistance check, replace the valve. Prefer a Motorcraft unit; owners widely report discount aftermarket IAC valves for the modular V8 producing a repeat code. Before condemning the valve, smoke-test the intake for vacuum leaks and specifically check the PCV elbow and hoses, since a leak makes the PCM drive the IAC closed and can mimic the same fault. Also check for an obstructed air inlet or badly clogged filter, which forum diagnoses raise repeatedly. After installation, disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes or use a scan tool to reset keep-alive memory, then let the engine idle about five minutes with the headlights and A/C on so the PCM relearns idle trim. Verify with live data that commanded IAC duty settles mid-range at a warm idle rather than pegged near maximum. A useful field test: unplugging the IAC connector at idle should drop the engine to base RPM - if nothing changes, suspect the connector, the harness, or the PCM feed rather than the valve.
On 2004-2008 F-150s with the 4.6L 2V and 5.4L 3V Triton V8s, P2104 is rarely a standalone fault - it is the failure-management code the PCM sets after it has already decided the electronic throttle body (ETB) cannot be trusted. The F-150 ETB is an integrated unit: throttle plate, DC throttle actuator motor, dual-track throttle position sensor and return spring all live in one housing bolted to the intake. Two things go wrong with it. Carbon and crankcase oil mist from the PCV system coat the bore and the edge of the throttle plate so the plate hangs up and cannot reach the commanded position; and on higher-mileage trucks the brushes and commutator inside the small throttle actuator motor build up resistive deposits, so the motor stalls or moves erratically under command. Either way throttle-position feedback disagrees with the commanded position, the PCM sets P2111 (Throttle Body Stuck Open) or P2112 (Throttle Body Stuck Closed) as the root-cause code, then sets P2104 to record that it has entered Failure Mode Effects Management and forced the engine to idle. F-150 owners report the P2104 + P2111 and P2104 + P2112 pairings consistently on this platform. It is often intermittent at first - the wrench light flashes on a cold start or when merging, then clears on the next key cycle - before it latches. When it latches the plate is held near its default position and the truck will only crawl, which is genuinely dangerous pulling into traffic or towing.
Common Symptoms
Engine runs but the accelerator pedal does nothing - vehicle will only crawl at idle speed
Wrench / powertrain malfunction light on the instrument cluster
Sudden loss of power while merging or towing, then normal operation after restarting
Rough or hunting idle, occasional stall shortly after start-up
Cruise control disabled
How to Fix
Do not start by throwing a throttle body at it, but do not waste time either. Pull all codes and look for the partner code: P2111 or P2112 alongside P2104 points inside the throttle body, while an APP-sensor or circuit code (P2135, P2138, P2101) points elsewhere. Key-on engine-off, watch commanded throttle position against actual throttle position on a scan tool while a helper sweeps the pedal - a healthy unit tracks within a few percent, a failing one lags, sticks or drops out. Inspect the ETB connector and harness for green corrosion, spread pins and chafe, because a poor connection mimics a dead motor exactly. If the bore is visibly sooty and the codes are history rather than current, remove the throttle body, clean the bore and both faces of the plate with throttle body cleaner on a rag (never spray cleaner into the electronics or scrub the bore coating with a wire brush), reinstall, and complete a throttle-body and idle relearn. If P2111 or P2112 is a current code, cleaning usually will not save it - the actuator motor is the problem and the complete ETB assembly needs replacement; the sensors and motor are integrated, so there is no separate TPS. After replacement the PCM must relearn the closed-throttle stop or it will judge the new unit out of position and re-set the forced-idle code; a KAM reset plus a warm idle relearn works, though a scan tool that can command the relearn is faster. A good used or reman OEM Motorcraft unit is often more reliable than a cheap aftermarket one. Budget roughly $150-$300 for the part plus one to one and a half hours of labor, or about $450-$600 at an independent shop.
Second-gen 3.5L EcoBoost engines develop a loud rattle/knock from the front timing cover for 2-5 seconds on cold start (and sometimes at idle). The variable-cam-timing (VCT) phasers have a lock pin that fails to engage on startup, allowing the phaser to rattle against the cam sprocket. Over time the phasers and timing chain wear, which can throw cam/crank correlation codes and, if ignored, lead to further timing component damage. Ford acknowledged it in service bulletins and a Customer Satisfaction Program with an extended warranty.
Common Symptoms
Loud rattle or knock from front of engine for 2-5 seconds on cold start
Rattle/ticking at idle once warm in worse cases
Rough idle or check-engine light with cam timing codes
Noise worse after the engine sits 6+ hours
How to Fix
Ford issued a PCM reflash (program 21B10) to change startup oil-pressure behavior and reduce phaser rattle, and Customer Satisfaction Program 21N03 to replace the cam phasers if the noise persists. Out of program, replacement of all four phasers plus timing chains/guides is a ~10-hour job. Replace phasers and timing chain set; use full-synthetic oil and stick to oil-change intervals to preserve VCT oil pressure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
The phasers are only half the repair — by the time the cold-start rattle is audible the chains, guides and tensioners are worn and must go in with the new phasers, otherwise the noise returns. Note which kit variant you buy: the "SX" ver…
The 2-valve 4.6L and 5.4L Triton V8s (distinct from the later 3-valve cam-phaser motors) use hydraulic timing-chain tensioners and plastic chain guides that wear and fail with age. The tensioners bleed down oil pressure overnight, so the chains slap on cold start; over time the brittle plastic guides crack and break, letting the chains rattle continuously and eventually skip timing or damage cam gears. Neglected oil changes accelerate the failure.
Common Symptoms
Rattle on cold start-up (a few seconds, worsening over time)
Chain/rattle noise from the front of the engine
Rattle that becomes constant as guides fail
Cam/crank correlation codes and possible timing skip
Metallic plastic debris in the oil pan
How to Fix
Address a persistent cold-start rattle promptly. Replace both timing chain tensioners and the plastic guides (and chains if stretched) with an updated timing kit; inspect the cam/crank sprockets. Maintain oil changes with the correct grade and use an anti-drainback-quality filter to preserve start-up oil pressure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Primary timing chain (5.4L 2V) — need 2
OEM5L3Z-6268-ACross-refFord supersession: F6TZ-6268-AA, Cloyes 9-0391-series 5.4L kits include this chain length$53–$95
The 5.4L chain is NOT interchangeable with the 4.6L chain — swapping them is the classic wrong-part mistake on this engine family.
Hydraulic timing chain tensioner, passenger (right) side — 1997-2001
OEMF6AZ-6L266-DACross-refFord supersession: replaces F6AZ-6L266-BA, Later replacement: 1L3Z-6L266-AA$48–$70
Passenger/right-side mate to F6AZ-6L266-CA on 1997-2001 trucks. Frequently backordered from Ford; the later 1L3Z-6L266-AA is the usual substitute and is the part listed for 2000-2014 4.6L/5.4L.
Distinct from the cam-phaser cold-start rattle, the first-generation (2011-2016) 3.5L EcoBoost suffers genuine primary timing-chain wear ('stretch') because of its long chain routing and the high loads of a twin-turbo direct-injection V6. As the chain pins and rollers wear, the cam-to-crank relationship drifts and the PCM logs P0016 (and related correlation codes). The first symptom is usually a brief metallic rattle on cold start that worsens over time. Wear typically appears around 100,000-150,000 miles, often accelerated by extended oil-change intervals. Left unrepaired, the chain can skip teeth or break, causing catastrophic valve-and-piston contact. This is a high-demand search because the 3.5 EcoBoost is the volume engine in millions of F-150s.
Common Symptoms
Brief metallic rattle on cold start
Check engine light with P0016
Rough idle or hesitation
Reduced power / limp mode in severe cases
How to Fix
Confirm with a scan tool (P0016 cam/crank correlation) and verify chain stretch versus a sticking VCT solenoid before tear-down. The fix is a full timing-chain overhaul — primary and secondary chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, and VCT solenoids. Use the updated Ford parts; many shops replace the cam-position sensors and water pump while in there. Stay on the 5W-30 spec, change oil every 5,000 miles, and avoid extended intervals. Major job: $1,800-$3,000+ with labor. Catching it at the first cold-start rattle prevents engine destruction.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Timing chain, guide and tensioner set (chains only, no phasers)
On first-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s, the front-mounted charge air cooler (intercooler) over-cools intake air below its dew point in humid weather, allowing condensation to pool inside the intercooler housing. Under hard acceleration the accumulated water is drawn into the combustion chambers all at once, causing a violent shudder/stumble and misfires. In severe cases the PCM commands a power-reducing 'limp mode.' The condition is most common in humid Southeast/Gulf climates and at highway speeds after the truck has been cruising at light load.
Common Symptoms
Hard shudder or stumble under acceleration in humid/damp weather
Misfires after cruising at light load
Sudden loss of power / limp mode
Symptom clears after pulling over and restarting
Worse in Southeast/Gulf Coast humidity
How to Fix
Ford's field fix relocates the air deflector from the top to the bottom of the charge air cooler to promote condensate evaporation, paired with a PCM calibration update. Many owners perform the DIY 'weep hole' fix — drilling a 1/16-inch drain hole at the low point of the CAC so condensate drains continuously (creates a minor boost leak but eliminates the slug-of-water shudder). Confirm no coil pack/spark plug fouling, which can mimic the symptom.
The wastegate on the 3.5L EcoBoost turbochargers fails, either sticking (carbon/corrosion binding the valve and actuator arm) on early vacuum-operated designs or through electronic actuator/position-sensor faults on 2015-and-newer electric-actuator turbos. A stuck-closed wastegate causes overboost (P0234) and a metallic rattle, while a stuck-open wastegate or sensor/actuator faults cause underboost (P0299) and trip the powertrain into reduced-power limp mode. Because Ford does not sell the electronic wastegate actuator as a separate service part on later trucks, the accepted dealer repair is replacement of the entire affected turbocharger assembly, making it an expensive failure. Ford also issued TSB guidance (e.g., wastegate-arm rattle spring kits on 2017 3.5L) for related linkage slack.
Common Symptoms
Significant loss of power / limp mode
Wrench light and 'reduced engine power' warning
Metallic rattle at startup or when lifting off the throttle
Boost gauge showing over- or under-boost
Check engine light with turbo wastegate performance codes
How to Fix
Diagnose the boost-control fault and rule out unrelated causes first (charge-pipe/boost leaks, cracked intercooler pipe, BOV, solenoid, vacuum leaks). On early vacuum-actuator turbos the wastegate actuator/diaphragm or linkage can sometimes be serviced or freed; on 2015+ electric-actuator turbos Ford's procedure replaces the complete turbocharger assembly since the actuator is not sold separately. Replace oil feed line screens if oil starvation contributed.
The 2004-2010 5.4L 3-valve Triton uses variable cam timing (VCT) phasers fed by clean, high-pressure engine oil. With infrequent oil changes or normal high-mileage wear, the phasers' internal vanes and locking pins wear out, the plastic timing-chain guides crack, and the hydraulic chain tensioners bleed down. The result is the notorious 'death rattle' — a loud rattle/knock on cold start and a metallic ticking at hot idle. Owners report symptoms as early as 50,000-100,000 miles. If ignored, a worn phaser or skipped chain can cause valve timing to drift (rough running, P0011/P0021/P0016 cam-correlation codes), loss of power, and in worst cases chain jump and valve-to-piston contact destroying the engine. This is one of the single most-searched, most-complained-about Ford truck engine problems of the era and a major shop money-maker.
Common Symptoms
Loud rattle or knock for several seconds on cold start
Metallic ticking or rattling at hot idle
Rough running / loss of power
Reduced fuel economy
Check engine light with cam/crank correlation codes
How to Fix
Replace the complete timing set: both cam phasers, primary and secondary timing chains, tensioners, guides, and VCT solenoids. Many owners also upgrade the oil pump and switch to a slightly heavier oil and shorter oil-change interval. A common permanent fix is a cam phaser 'lockout' kit that replaces the moving vanes with solid blocks, fixing valve timing and eliminating the failure (sacrifices VCT economy/smoothness). Critical: address at first rattle — running it risks catastrophic engine damage. OEM Ford cam phaser is 3R2Z-6A257-DA (per side); Cloyes 9-0753SK and Dorman repair kits are common full-kit cross-references. Parts $300-$900; full job with labor typically $1,500-$2,500.
Certain 2024-2025 F-150s built with the 3.5L GTDI (EcoBoost) V6 left the plant with a misaligned engine block cup plug (freeze/core plug). The plug can push out or leak, causing a rapid — not seeping — loss of engine oil. Ford issued two campaigns: NHTSA 24V851000 and NHTSA 25V198000 (Ford 25S30, 4,356 vehicles, also covering 2024-2025 Expedition and 2024 Navigator). Losing oil pressure at speed can seize or stall the engine, and oil sprayed onto hot exhaust components is a fire risk.
Common Symptoms
Sudden large oil leak or oil puddle under the front of the engine
Low oil pressure warning or oil light
Burning oil smell / smoke from the engine bay
Engine stall or seizure
How to Fix
Check the VIN against both NHTSA 24V851000 and 25V198000. Dealers inspect the engine cup plug alignment and replace the plug free of charge; letters for 25S30 were mailed May 22, 2025. If you see a sudden large oil puddle, oil smoke, or the low-oil-pressure warning, stop driving and have the truck towed — continuing to run it turns a free plug replacement into an engine replacement.
A small production batch of 2025 F-150 engines was built with connecting rod and rod bearing components carrying manufacturing defects that lead to progressive engine damage and eventual failure. Ford recalled 156 vehicles under NHTSA 25V344000 (Ford 25S55) in June 2025; the same campaign covers 2025 Transit and 2025 Explorer. Because the failure is in the rotating assembly, the remedy is not a repair but a complete engine long block replacement. Owners typically hear a deepening knock or rumble from the bottom end under load before the engine lets go.
Common Symptoms
Deep knocking or rumbling from the lower engine, louder under load
Low oil pressure warning
Metallic debris in the oil or on the drain plug
Sudden engine failure and stall
How to Fix
Check the VIN against NHTSA 25V344000. Dealers inspect the connecting rods and replace the engine long block assembly as necessary, free of charge; owner letters were mailed August 15, 2025. If you hear a bottom-end knock that rises with engine speed, stop driving and have the truck towed — running a spun rod bearing destroys the block and complicates the warranty claim.
The EcoBoost engines can develop oil leaks from the oil pan gasket. The leak often appears at the rear of the oil pan and can drip onto exhaust components, causing a burning oil smell. This is common on trucks with higher mileage.
Common Symptoms
Oil spots under truck
Burning oil smell
Low oil level
Oil visible on oil pan
Smoke from under truck
How to Fix
Replace oil pan gasket. The repair is labor-intensive as the subframe often needs to be lowered for access. Use OEM gasket for best results. Clean oil pan and block mating surfaces thoroughly.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Engine oil pan, 2.7L EcoBoost (updated design with press-in-place gasket)
OEMJT4Z-6675-ECross-refFord ML3Z-6675-J (supersedes JT4Z-6675-B/C/D/E), Ford ML3Z-6675-M (current supersession of ML3Z-6675-J)$105–$193
The 2.7L EcoBoost has a composite (plastic) oil pan sealed to the block with RTV, not a replaceable gasket. Ford's fix is to replace the whole pan with the later-style pan that carries a built-in gasket: TSB 23-2083 (supersedes 19-2205) …
High Confidence920 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
On 2025.5 F-150s with the 2.7L EcoBoost V6, the heater-core coolant hose routing was relocated. The new routing lets the coolant hose contact the engine wire harness at the C-clip attachment, abrading the harness insulation over time. This can chafe the harness or disconnect powertrain control module (PCM) connector pins, causing the engine to stall and increasing crash risk. Ford issued recall 25S63 for affected 2.7L EcoBoost trucks.
Common Symptoms
Engine stalls unexpectedly while driving
Chafed/damaged engine wiring harness
Powertrain warning lights
PCM connector pin disconnection
How to Fix
Dealers inspect and, as necessary, replace the engine wire harness, relocate the coolant hose, and add a Nyloguard protective covering over the harness — all free of charge under Ford recall 25S63. Owners experiencing an unexpected stall or stall-related warning lights should have the truck inspected promptly and verify recall eligibility by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
First-generation 3.5L EcoBoost F-150s use direct injection only (no port injection), so fuel never washes the back of the intake valves. Oil vapor from the PCV system bakes onto the valves and forms hard carbon deposits that restrict airflow and disturb valve sealing. Owners typically begin noticing symptoms around 80,000-125,000 miles: rough idle, cold-start stumble, hesitation or a misfire/shudder under hard acceleration, and reduced fuel economy. Ford has no approved chemical cleaning procedure for these valves and generally directs replacement rather than service, making walnut-blasting the practical fix. Later Gen 2/Gen 3 3.5L engines added port injection (dual injection) which largely prevents new buildup, so this issue is specific to the 2011-2016 direct-injection-only trucks.
Common Symptoms
Rough idle, especially when cold
Misfire or shudder under hard acceleration
Cold-start stumble or hesitation
Reduced fuel economy
Misfire codes (P0300-series) with no obvious ignition fault
How to Fix
The only reliable cleaning method is media (walnut-shell) blasting of the intake valves with the intake manifold removed — chemical induction cleaners cannot remove hardened deposits already present. Plan to inspect/clean around 80k-100k miles in affected engines. Installing an oil catch can on the PCV line slows future accumulation by trapping oil vapor before it reaches the intake but does not remove existing carbon. Replace spark plugs at the same service interval and confirm no PCV/valve-cover issues are accelerating oil carryover. Walnut-blast service typically runs $400-$900.
Third-generation 5.0L Coyote V8 trucks consume oil at an abnormally high rate (greater than ~1 quart per 3,000 miles) with no visible external leaks. Ford TSB 19-2365 attributes it to high intake-manifold vacuum during deceleration fuel shut-off pulling oil past the rings/valve guides and through the PCV system into the combustion chamber. Owners report having to top off oil between changes and risk running low if they do not monitor it. A class action alleges Ford's 'fix' (a lower dipstick mark) masks rather than cures the consumption.
Common Symptoms
Burning more than ~1 quart of oil per 3,000 miles
Low-oil warnings between oil changes
No visible oil leaks under the truck
Occasional light blue exhaust smoke / fouled plugs
How to Fix
Ford's TSB 19-2365 remedy is a PCM reflash to reduce deceleration vacuum, plus a revised oil-level dipstick and an oil/filter change. Owners should check oil frequently and top off as needed. Persistent consumption beyond the reflash may require dealer documentation of consumption tests under powertrain warranty; severe cases involve PCV/valve-guide or short-block work.
Third-generation 5.0L Coyote F-150s consume engine oil at a high rate — greater than 1 quart per 3,000 miles — with no visible external leaks. Ford attributes the loss to high intake-manifold vacuum during deceleration fuel shut-off (DFSO) events pulling oil past the rings, valve guides, and PCV system into the combustion chamber. A class-action suit (Lyman v. Ford) alleges defective pistons and ring assemblies as the root cause. Owners frequently run the engine low on oil between changes, risking accelerated wear if unmonitored.
Common Symptoms
Low oil level warning between changes
Burning more than 1 quart per 3,000 miles
No visible external oil leak
Occasional blue smoke on hard deceleration
Oil light or low-oil-pressure events
How to Fix
Ford's TSB remedy reprograms the PCM (altering DFSO behavior), installs a revised oil level dipstick with updated full/add marks, and performs an oil and filter change to begin a consumption-monitoring test. If consumption remains above spec after the calibration, dealers may perform a long-block/engine repair under powertrain warranty. Owners should check oil every fill-up and top off to avoid running dangerously low.
Ford's 2004-2008 3-valve modular engines used a long two-piece spark plug whose lower ground-electrode shield protrudes past the threads into a recessed pocket in the head. Over the 100,000-mile factory replacement interval, carbon deposits cake the exposed lower portion in a concrete-like grip. When a technician backs the plug out, the upper body unscrews but the lower shield stays seized — the plug breaks in two, leaving the bottom half stuck deep in the aluminum cylinder head. This turns a routine tune-up into a difficult extraction job and is distinct from the separate spark-plug-blowout (thread-stripping) problem. It is one of the most-searched Ford DIY headaches because nearly every truck of this era is affected.
Common Symptoms
Spark plug snaps in half during removal
Lower electrode shield stuck in cylinder head
Difficulty removing plugs at scheduled tune-up
Misfire if plug fragment damages threads or seal
How to Fix
Use the proper procedure: warm the engine slightly, soak the plug wells with penetrating oil overnight, and back the plugs out only a fraction of a turn before re-tightening and repeating to break the carbon grip. A dedicated broken-spark-plug extractor kit (Lisle 65600 or OTC/Rotunda equivalent) is designed specifically for these plugs and removes the stuck lower shield. Always install the updated one-piece Motorcraft replacement plug (e.g. SP-515 / SP-546 application-dependent) with anti-seize on the upper threads only. If threads are damaged, a Time-Sert insert repairs them. DIY extractor kits run $50-$120; a shop extraction is typically $200-$500 if a plug breaks.
P0299 sets when actual boost is about 4 psi or more below the commanded value for several seconds, dropping the truck into reduced-power limp mode (orange wrench light). On EcoBoost F-150s the most common causes are NOT the turbos themselves but cheaper upstream parts: a loose or popped cold-side intercooler boot/clamp, a torn orange rubber diaphragm inside the electronic turbocharger bypass (blow-off) valve, and cracked charge-pipe couplers. On 14th-gen (2021+) trucks a specific failure is the plastic upper radiator air deflector warping and blocking the passenger-side turbo intake snorkel, starving that turbo for air (updated part ML3Z-8310-D). Wastegate-actuator sticking can also contribute. Owners frequently — and wrongly — replace turbochargers when a smoke test would have found a hose or the bypass-valve diaphragm.
Common Symptoms
Sudden loss of power / reduced-power limp mode
Orange wrench warning light on the dash
Hissing or whoosh under boost (boost leak)
Hesitation on hard acceleration
P0299 stored, sometimes intermittent
How to Fix
Always perform a high-pressure smoke test of the charge-air system before condemning the turbos. Reseat/replace the cold-side intercooler boot and clamps; inspect the electronic bypass valve for a torn diaphragm and replace if leaking. On 2021+ trucks setting P0299 on the passenger bank, inspect the upper radiator air deflector and replace with the updated part (ML3Z-8310-D) if warped. Check wastegate actuators for free movement. Only after leaks, the bypass valve, deflector, and wastegate are ruled out should a turbocharger be considered. A boot/clamp fix can be under $100; a turbo replacement runs into the thousands.
The 5.0L Coyote V8 can develop a ticking or rattling noise at startup, often from the cam phasers. This is similar to issues in the Mustang GT. The noise typically diminishes after the engine warms up but can indicate phaser wear.
Common Symptoms
Ticking noise at cold startup
Rattle from top of engine
Noise diminishes when warm
Louder in cold weather
Check engine light in severe cases
How to Fix
Use quality synthetic oil and change regularly. Ford updated cam phaser design for later production. If noise is excessive, cam phaser replacement may be needed. Check for TSBs specific to your build date.
High Confidence1,200 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
Community reported
308 owners
The 2004 F-150 is covered by a recall for the speed control deactivation switch, which can leak internally, overheat, and cause an underhood fire even when the vehicle is parked. Complaint data also includes owners reporting cruise control failure and electrical fires on the passenger side after shutdown or while fueling.
Common Symptoms
Cruise control inoperative
Electrical burning smell
Underhood or front-side fire after parking
Melted switch or wiring
Intermittent brake/cruise electrical issues
How to Fix
Verify recall completion for the speed control deactivation switch and inspect the related harness and fused jumper. If the switch or connector shows heat damage, replace the affected components and confirm brake lamp/cruise operation; repair cost is often covered under recall, but out-of-pocket repairs can run about $0-$300 depending on harness damage. Any signs of melting or smoke should be treated as urgent.
High Confidence308 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
The Instrument Panel Cluster on 2025 F-150s can fail at startup, leaving the digital cluster blank or frozen so the driver has no speedometer, no fuel or temperature readings, and no telltale warning lights. Ford recalled 355,656 vehicles under NHTSA 25V540000 (Ford 25S88) in August 2025 covering the 2025 F-150 along with 2025-2026 F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 Super Duty. Because the cluster is the sole display for FMVSS-required telltales, a failed startup means brake, airbag and charging warnings cannot be shown at all.
Common Symptoms
Digital instrument cluster is black or blank after starting the truck
Cluster freezes on the startup animation
No speedometer, fuel gauge or warning lights
Cluster returns to normal after a restart, then fails again
How to Fix
Verify the VIN against NHTSA 25V540000. The remedy is a free instrument panel cluster software update, applied either over-the-air or at a dealer; owner notification letters were mailed September 5, 2025. If the cluster is blank, cycling the ignition off and restarting often restores it temporarily, but the software update is the actual fix. Do not drive with a dead cluster — you lose speed indication and all safety telltales.
On certain 2019-2020 F-150s, the fastener securing the Power Distribution Box (PDB) 12V cable and the Battery Monitoring Sensor (BMS) eyelets to the positive battery terminal may not be properly torqued, partly due to leftover wiring-eyelet adhesive on the BMS terminal interfering with metal-to-metal contact. This 'soft joint' creates intermittent high resistance that can cause flickering or inoperative instrument-panel displays, loss of braking or steering assist, and engine stalling. Worse, the resistive connection can overheat, leading to smoke, melting, or fire. Ford issued Safety Recall 19S40 (NHTSA 19V805) covering about 135,725 U.S. vehicles built at the Dearborn and Kansas City plants in mid-to-late 2019. This is a positive-terminal connection defect — separate from negative/ground cable corrosion no-start gripes and distinct from the FPDM corrosion issue. The related positive battery cable assembly is Ford PN JL3Z-14300-E.
Common Symptoms
Intermittent or blank instrument-panel displays
Loss of power-steering or power-brake assist
Engine stalling
Burning smell, smoke, or melted insulation at the battery terminal
Battery/charging warning lights
How to Fix
This is a free safety-recall repair (19S40). Dealers inspect the positive battery cable / BMS / PDB joint, remove any excess sealant adhesive, reassemble, and retorque the fastener to spec. Owners should check VIN eligibility on Ford's recall site or NHTSA and have the work performed at no charge. If experiencing intermittent electrical faults, stalling, or any burning smell at the battery, stop driving and have it inspected promptly given the fire risk.
Select 2025 F-150 PowerBoost (3.5L V6 full hybrid) trucks built between January 30 and February 5, 2025 were assembled with an incorrect fuse in the high-voltage battery junction box. The wrong fuse can fail, resulting in a sudden loss of drive power while driving, which increases crash risk. This is specific to the PowerBoost hybrid's high-voltage electrical system and is separate from the conventional 12V/electrical complaints on gas-only trucks.
Common Symptoms
Sudden loss of drive power while driving
Hybrid/high-voltage system warning
Truck unexpectedly loses motive power
How to Fix
Dealers replace the incorrect high-voltage battery junction box fuse with the correct part, free of charge under the recall. Affected owners are notified by Ford; if the truck experiences a sudden loss of motive power, have it towed for inspection. Verify recall eligibility by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls or ford.com.
On 14th-gen F-150s running SYNC 4 software versions 1.7 through 1.9, an improper operational sequence in the wireless communication subsystem can cause the center infotainment screen to freeze, go black, and reboot. If this happens while the truck is in reverse, the backup-camera image can freeze on a stale frame, disappear entirely, or be delayed, presenting a false view of what is behind the vehicle and increasing crash/backover risk. Ford recalled roughly 527,000 F-150s (and over 1 million total Ford vehicles) for this defect. This is distinct from the older infotainment lockups and is specific to the SYNC 4 generation in the 2021+ trucks.
Common Symptoms
Backup camera image freezes or shows a frozen frame in reverse
Center screen goes black and reboots
Rearview image delayed or missing when shifting to reverse
SYNC 4 infotainment system spontaneously restarts
How to Fix
Ford's remedy is a free software update to the Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM); on many trucks it is delivered over-the-air, otherwise the dealer reflashes the module at no charge under recall 25S49 / NHTSA 25V315. Owners can verify eligibility by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls or ford.com. A manual reboot (holding the power/volume controls) is a temporary workaround but does not fix the underlying software fault.
Ford recalled 1994-2002 F-150s under NHTSA campaign 05V388 (September 2005) — eventually expanded to roughly 14 million vehicles across multiple campaigns — for a defective cruise control deactivation switch screwed into the brake master cylinder. The internal seal fails, brake fluid leaks into the electrical side of the switch, and the contamination creates a short that can ignite a fire while the vehicle is parked and off. Numerous F-150 fires (many in garages, some involving structure fires) were tied to this switch. The switch is always powered, so the fire risk exists with the key out of the ignition.
Common Symptoms
Cruise control intermittently stops working
ABS warning light illuminated
Difficulty shifting out of Park
Low brake fluid with no visible leak at calipers/lines
Brake fluid weeping from cruise control switch on master cylinder
Burning plastic smell from under the hood
Vehicle fire while parked
How to Fix
Verify the truck has had recall 05V388 (and follow-up campaigns) completed via NHTSA VIN lookup. The Ford remedy was a fused jumper-harness installed between the switch and the cruise control wiring; in some cases the switch itself is replaced. If the recall work is not on record, do not park the truck inside a garage and have the recall performed at any Ford dealer free of charge. As an immediate interim measure, disconnect the cruise control deactivation switch connector at the master cylinder until the recall is completed.
Certain 2022-2024 F-150 Lightning EVs (built March 16, 2022 through August 14, 2024) have high-voltage battery cells from SK Battery America with a manufacturing defect that can misalign internal electrodes. The cathode aluminum tabs may contact the anode material, causing an internal short circuit when the pack is at a high state of charge. Over repeated charge/discharge cycles this can lead to a battery fire without warning. At the time of filing Ford was aware of 5 reported fires and 1 injury under investigation. This is a Lightning-specific high-voltage battery issue, separate from the earlier loose battery-junction-box nut recall.
Common Symptoms
High-voltage battery warning messages
Reduced range or charging anomalies
Risk of battery fire when charged to high state of charge
Smoke or thermal event from underbody battery pack
How to Fix
Ford's interim guidance is to limit charging to 80% of battery capacity until the truck is inspected. The remedy is dealer inspection and, where needed, replacement of the high-voltage battery array at no charge under recall 25S18 / NHTSA 25V234. Owners should park outside and away from structures if a battery warning appears and verify recall status by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
The 4.6L and 5.4L Triton V8s use one coil-on-plug per cylinder, and these coils are a very common failure item — subjected to heat, vibration, and moisture from cowl leaks — typically starting after 80k miles. A failed coil sets a cylinder-specific misfire (P0301-P0308) and often a matching coil-circuit code (P0351-P0358), causing a shake at idle, hesitation, and a flashing check-engine light. Repeat failures on the same cylinder usually mean oil is leaking from the valve-cover gasket into the plug well and shorting the coil.
Repeat coil failure on the same cylinder (oil in plug well)
How to Fix
Confirm the bad coil by swapping it to an adjacent cylinder and seeing if the misfire follows. Replace the failed coil (and its spark plug), apply dielectric grease to the boot to seal out moisture. If the same cylinder fails repeatedly, replace the valve-cover gasket and clean oil from the plug tube. Consider a full coil/plug set at high mileage.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Ignition Coil
Cross-ref0221504704
Bosch Engine Management Sensors 0221504704. Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
The 2004-2008 F-150 instrument cluster is a notorious failure: gauges stick, drop to zero, sweep erratically, or read incorrectly (speedometer, tach, fuel, temp), and the LCD odometer/message center dims or goes blank. The root cause is worn internal stepper-motor gears and failing solder/circuit-board components aggravated by heat and vibration. It can also cause intermittent warning lights. A dead or wrong speedometer is a safety concern and is a very high-search repair for this generation.
Common Symptoms
Gauges stick, drop to zero, or sweep erratically
Speedometer/tach reads wrong or dead
Dim or blank LCD odometer/message center
Intermittent warning lights
Gauges normal cold then fail when warm
How to Fix
A cluster self-test (hold trip reset while turning key on) sweeps the gauges to confirm the fault. The fix is rebuilding the cluster — replacing the stepper motors, LCD, and reflowing/repairing the board — via a mail-in repair service, which is preferred over a used replacement (same aging components). Recalibrate/PATS-relearn if a replacement unit is installed.
The Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) on these trucks disables fuel/injection when the PCM cannot verify the key transponder, leaving the truck cranking but not starting with the dash theft/security light flashing rapidly. Common triggers are a worn or dead key transponder, a loose or damaged transceiver antenna ring around the ignition cylinder, corroded PCM grounds (water intrusion at the passenger cowl/windshield), or intermittent PCM power. It often starts as an intermittent no-start that worsens.
Common Symptoms
Engine cranks but will not start
Theft/security light flashes rapidly or stays on
Intermittent no-start that comes and goes
Starts with one key but not another
Dies immediately after starting
How to Fix
Read PATS/PCM DTCs. Try a known-good second key; re-seat/replace the ignition antenna ring; clean and tighten PCM/body grounds and check for windshield/cowl water leaks; verify PCM power and keep-alive. Re-program keys or replace the PATS/PCM as a last resort. Keeping two working programmed keys avoids most stranding.
The Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM) — the computer behind the SYNC 2 and SYNC 3 touchscreen — is a very common failure on 2013-2020 F-150s. Its internal electronics and onboard flash storage degrade over time, producing a black/unresponsive screen (sometimes with backlight on), constant reboot loops stuck at the Ford logo, frozen touch input, and loss of backup-camera display, navigation, phone, and HVAC controls routed through the screen. It usually starts intermittently and worsens. Because the screen also displays the federally mandated rearview camera, a dead APIM is more than a convenience issue. This is one of the highest-volume F-150 electronics searches.
Common Symptoms
Black or unresponsive touchscreen
Boot loop stuck at Ford logo
Frozen / non-responsive touch input
Loss of backup camera image
Random reboots while driving
How to Fix
First try a master reset and, importantly, update the APIM to the latest software level — Ford found many returned APIMs were simply running outdated software and did not actually need replacement (TSB guidance for SYNC 3 performance concerns). If the module is truly failed, replace the APIM; a replacement MUST be programmed (As-Built) to the vehicle's VIN/options via Ford service software or FORScan with an extended license — it is not plug-and-play. 2016 trucks adding CarPlay also need USB hub HC3Z-19A387-F. Software update may be free/low cost; programmed APIM replacement typically $400-$900 depending on nav.
The HVAC blend door actuators can fail, causing clicking noises from the dashboard and inability to control air temperature. Air may blow only hot or only cold regardless of settings. Multiple actuators are used and any can fail.
Common Symptoms
Clicking from dashboard
HVAC only blows hot
HVAC only blows cold
Temperature doesn't change
Air from wrong vents
How to Fix
Replace failed blend door actuator. Actuators are located behind dashboard and require some disassembly. Consider replacing multiple actuators if one fails as others may follow. OEM parts recommended.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
High Confidence1,100 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
F-150 owners frequently report that the Auto Start-Stop system stops functioning, throwing a 'Start-Stop not available — see owner's manual' message. The system requires the battery state of charge to stay above roughly 70%; the AGM battery setup and the high electrical load of these trucks lead to premature battery degradation, and dealers often diagnose a battery at well under full charge and replace it. Owners report the battery dropping below threshold repeatedly, with the feature disabling itself even on relatively new trucks. While the dropout itself is benign, the underlying weak/degraded battery can cause harder starts, electrical glitches, and repeat battery costs. Many owners ultimately install a start-stop 'eliminator' to keep the feature off rather than chase the battery.
Common Symptoms
'Start-Stop not available — see owner's manual' message
Auto Start-Stop intermittently or permanently stops engaging
Repeated battery replacements at low mileage
Slow cranking or hard starts
Battery warning light or low-voltage events
How to Fix
Load-test the battery and check state of charge — a battery below ~70% SOC or with reduced capacity is the usual cause and should be replaced with the correct AGM specification, not a cheaper flooded battery. Verify the BMS (battery monitoring sensor) and ground connections are clean and tight, and check for parasitic draw if the battery keeps discharging. Confirm the alternator is charging to spec. If the owner simply dislikes the feature, a memory-retaining start-stop disable module keeps it off without affecting the battery diagnosis.
What you need to diagnose it
The fix here starts with a test, not a part — which repair you need depends on what the test finds.At least one code uses a manufacturer-specific format. No scanner recommendation is shown because family-level coverage cannot prove it can read that code.
UNI-T UT210E Low-Current DC Clamp Meter
1 mA resolution on the 2 A range — a 0.1 A meter reads a 50 mA drain as zero
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Prices are approximate and may vary.
Testing and isolating the fault is DIY work. Replacing or reprogramming a control module is not — most are VIN-programmed, so a new one does nothing until a shop codes it to your car. Check for an open recall or service bulletin before buying anything.
PowerBoost hybrid F-150s equipped with the 7.2kW Pro Power Onboard generator commonly throw a ground-fault / generator fault that disables the bed and in-cab outlets. Owners and dealers have traced many cases to moisture intrusion — water collecting in the in-bed outlet/connector area ('wet = fault') — which trips the system's ground-fault detection. Separately, some units output an unusual 60/60-volt split rather than a proper 120V hot-to-ground bond, which prevents certain appliances (modern A/Cs, refrigerators with ground-fault protection) from running. Symptoms are constant error messages and the generator being unusable until the fault clears or the truck dries out, frustrating buyers who bought the feature specifically for jobsite/RV/backup power.
Common Symptoms
Pro Power Onboard ground-fault / generator-fault message
Bed and in-cab outlets stop supplying power
Fault appears or worsens when wet / after rain
Certain appliances (A/C, fridge) won't run on the outlets
Inspect the bed outlet box and its wiring connectors for water intrusion and corrosion; dry and reseal the connections, as moisture is the leading trigger of the ground-fault. Have the dealer check for TSBs/software updates addressing Pro Power fault logic and verify the neutral/ground bonding at the inverter output. For appliances that won't run due to the floating-neutral output, a properly wired neutral-ground bond at the outlet (where appropriate) can resolve the missing bond, but confirm the correct approach with Ford to avoid defeating the safety system.
14th-gen F-150s with the 12-inch SYNC 4 infotainment display commonly suffer a black/blank or frozen screen at startup — sometimes with no Ford logo, sometimes stuck on the splash screen, and sometimes unresponsive for several minutes. Owners report it occurring intermittently (some 2023 trucks roughly 10% of startups) and note it worsened after certain over-the-air updates (e.g., the 4.2.2 and 6.8 OTA builds). With the center screen down, the backup camera, climate controls, radio, and drive-mode selection are unavailable, which is a real usability and visibility concern. A two-button hard reset usually restores it, but the recurrence is the complaint. This is distinct from the older SYNC 2/3 APIM failure and from the SYNC 4 rearview-camera recall — it is a SYNC 4 software/stability issue on the large screen.
Common Symptoms
Center 12-inch screen black or blank at startup
Screen frozen on the Ford logo / splash screen
Backup camera, climate, and radio controls unavailable
Random unresponsiveness requiring a button reset
Onset or worsening after an OTA software update
How to Fix
Perform a hard reset by pressing and holding the power and right-seek buttons for about 10 seconds until the screen reboots. Keep SYNC software current but be aware some OTA builds introduced the regression — check Ford's update notes and, if a recent update triggered it, ask the dealer about the latest stable build or a master reset. If resets stop working or the screen stays dead, the dealer can reflash or, in persistent cases, replace the APIM/display module. Allow extra time after large updates, during which the screen can be unresponsive for 2-15 minutes by design.
The driver's door master switch on 2009-2014 F-150s commonly fails electrically (distinct from the mechanical window-regulator/cable failure). Carbon builds up on the internal contacts from current arcing, and the switch's exposed door-panel location lets moisture in when the window is lowered in rain — both degrade the contacts. Because the master switch and the front passenger switch share wiring splices, a failing master can leave one or both front windows dead (or stuck moving), while the rear or passenger-door switches still work. Owners also report a window stuck in one position because a shorted switch constantly commands the motor. It is a high-volume, low-cost search/DIY item for this generation.
Common Symptoms
One or both front windows won't operate from the master switch
Window stuck up or down
Window operates from one switch but not the master
Intermittent operation, worse when wet
How to Fix
Test for power and ground at the switch and inspect the connector for corrosion/moisture before condemning it. The usual fix is to replace the driver's master window switch assembly (cleaning carbon-fouled contacts is a temporary fix at best). Check the relevant fuse first. OEM part numbers: 9L3Z-14529-AD / 9L3Z-14529-AE (2009-2010) and BL3T-14540-AAW for 2011-2014. Aftermarket switches are inexpensive. Switch $25-$90; about a 30-60 minute DIY, or ~$100-$200 at a shop.
The door-ajar switch built into the door latch sticks or corrodes so the truck thinks a door is open. The result is a 'door ajar' warning that stays on, interior/dome lights that won't shut off, chimes, and a parasitic battery drain that can leave the truck dead overnight. It is one of the most common and widely searched F-150 electrical annoyances across many model years, and is usually a very cheap fix.
Common Symptoms
'Door Ajar' warning stays on with doors shut
Dome/interior lights won't turn off
Dead or weak battery in the morning
Chime or courtesy lights cycling
Fault clears temporarily then returns
How to Fix
Isolate which door by watching the message center as you cycle each latch. Spray the latch/switch with a penetrant or electrical/brake cleaner and cycle the door 10-20 times to free the contacts — this fixes most cases. If it recurs, replace the door-ajar/jamb switch or the door latch assembly. Verify the interior lights and drain are gone with a parasitic draw test.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Front door ajar switch (driver side, quarter-turn switch inside the door latch) — 2004-2008 F-150
OEM4L3Z-13713-AACross-refDorman 901-351, Ford 3L5Z-13713-AA (prior OE number), APDTY 138476$13–$29
2004-2008 (11th-gen) F-150 only. The ajar switch is a separate $15-30 part that sits in the door latch: remove the door panel, quarter-turn the switch out of the latch, unplug the harness, drop in the new one — no latch replacement needed.
Front door ajar switch (passenger side) — 2004-2008 F-150
OEM4L3Z-14018-AA$16–$26
Ford's passenger-side (RH) front door ajar switch for the 2004-2008 F-150 ('Switch Assembly - Alarm'). Same quarter-turn-in-the-latch design as the driver side.
Door ajar switch (in door latch, driver or passenger side) — 2001-2003 F-150
OEMXF1Z-14018-AACross-refMotorcraft SW-5528, Ford F5DZ-14018-AA (superseded number)$12–$30
Catalog-confirmed for 2001-2003 F-150 only (4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L), driver OR passenger side.
2004-2014 Ford F-150 brake lines, hoses, and ABS hydraulic components corrode aggressively in salt-belt states. Steel brake lines along the frame rust through, causing sudden loss of brake fluid and reduced or no pedal feel. Front and rear hard lines and rear axle flex hoses are most commonly affected. NHTSA has received numerous complaints but no recall has been issued — replacement is owner-paid ($800-$2,000+ depending on which lines need replacing). Most failures occur after 100,000 miles in northern/coastal states; southern-state trucks rarely show the pattern. Inspect annually if you drive in salt regions.
Common Symptoms
Brake pedal fades to the floor
Sudden loss of braking power
Brake fluid loss or leaks
Rear brake hose separation
ABS light on with poor braking
How to Fix
Inspect all steel brake lines, rear flex hoses, calipers, ABS hydraulic components, and the master cylinder/booster interface for leaks or corrosion. Repairs commonly include replacing rusted lines with pre-bent or custom nickel-copper lines, new rear hoses, and sometimes a master cylinder and booster; typical cost is about $300-$1,500 depending on how much of the system is affected. Bleed the full system and verify ABS operation after repair.
High Confidence765 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
Community reported
680 owners
The vacuum pump that provides brake assist on EcoBoost F-150s can fail, resulting in a hard brake pedal and reduced braking assist. Since turbo engines don't produce intake vacuum like naturally aspirated engines, they rely on this pump.
Common Symptoms
Hard brake pedal
Increased stopping distance
Brake warning light
Whining noise from pump area
Reduced brake assist
How to Fix
Replace vacuum pump. This is a safety-critical repair - do not drive with failed pump. Check for diagnostic codes related to brake booster. Inspect vacuum lines for leaks as well.
High Confidence680 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
On 2025 F-150s the Electronic Brake Booster module can malfunction while driving or while an ADAS feature (adaptive cruise, BlueCruise, automatic emergency braking) is active, causing a loss of power brake assist. Ford recalled 312,120 vehicles across the 2025 F-150, Expedition, Bronco, Ranger and Navigator under NHTSA 25V488000 (Ford 25S77) for this in July 2025. Drivers report a hard, high brake pedal requiring far more leg effort and a much longer stopping distance; with ADAS engaged the vehicle may fail to decelerate as commanded. A follow-on campaign, NHTSA 25V823000 (Ford 25SD4), covered 679 vehicles where the module itself is defective rather than the software.
Common Symptoms
Brake pedal suddenly becomes hard and requires much greater effort
Extended stopping distance
Adaptive cruise or automatic emergency braking fails to slow the vehicle as expected
Brake system warning message or ABS/stability control lights
How to Fix
Check the VIN against both NHTSA 25V488000 and 25V823000. For 25V488 the fix is a free EBB module software update, delivered over-the-air or by a dealer (owner letters mailed August 22, 2025). For the smaller 25V823 population the electronic brake booster is physically replaced free of charge (letters mailed February 26, 2026). Do not defer this — a hard/low-assist pedal event is a loss-of-braking condition. If the pedal has already gone hard once, have the dealer pull EBB DTCs even if the software update has been applied.
The brake master cylinder rear cup seal can roll or fail, allowing brake fluid to leak from the front-circuit reservoir into the brake booster. This drops fluid in the front brake circuit and can reduce or eliminate front-wheel braking (rear brakes remain). Drivers report a long/soft pedal traveling near the floor, a brake warning light, and a low reservoir often with no visible external leak. The defect has driven repeated recalls on 3.5L EcoBoost trucks — 16S24 (2013-2014), 22V-150 (2017-2018), and 25V-236/25S37 (2017-2018) — and caused documented non-injury crashes.
Common Symptoms
Brake pedal sinks toward the floor
Increased pedal effort / hard pedal
Red brake warning light and low-fluid chime
Reservoir repeatedly low with no external leak
Reduced front braking, longer stopping distance
How to Fix
Have the VIN checked for open recalls (16S24, 22V-150, 25S37) — the master cylinder is replaced free of charge, and the brake booster is also replaced if it shows evidence of fluid contamination. Outside recall coverage, replace the master cylinder (and booster if soaked). Do not ignore a recurring low reservoir or any change in pedal travel/effort; this is a loss-of-braking safety condition.
The brake master cylinder rear cup seal can roll or the cylinder can develop an internal/external leak, allowing brake fluid to migrate from the front-circuit reservoir into the vacuum brake booster. This causes a longer/softer pedal, increased pedal effort, and reduced or lost front-brake function, lengthening stopping distance and raising crash risk. This recurred across several recalls on F-150 trucks: 2013-2014 trucks (NHTSA 16V-345 / Ford 16S24) and 2017-2018 3.5L EcoBoost trucks (NHTSA 25V-236 / Ford 25S37, with predecessors 20S31 and 22V-150).
Common Symptoms
Soft, low, or sinking brake pedal
Increased pedal effort / reduced front braking
Longer stopping distances
Brake fluid level dropping with no obvious external leak
Brake warning light
How to Fix
This is a free recall remedy. Dealers replace the brake master cylinder and, if it has already leaked into the booster, replace the brake booster as well, at no cost. Owners should check their VIN on the NHTSA or Ford recall lookup and have any open brake recall performed immediately; do not ignore a soft or sinking brake pedal.
A software fault in the Integrated Trailer Module (ITRM) can cause it to lose communication with the rest of the vehicle while a trailer is connected. This can result in loss of trailer brake and turn-signal lights, or complete loss of trailer brake function, dramatically increasing crash risk when hauling. Ford recalled over 4.3 million vehicles for this defect in early 2026, of which roughly 2.3 million are F-150s spanning 2021-2026. Ford reported it was aware of 407 incidents potentially related at the time of filing. Drivers typically see a 'Trailer Brake Module Fault' message, a rapidly flashing turn-signal indicator, and sometimes a 'Blind Spot Assist System fault' message.
Common Symptoms
'Trailer Brake Module Fault' message on instrument cluster
Loss of trailer brakes while towing
Trailer turn signals and brake lights stop working
Turn-signal indicator flashes rapidly
'Blind Spot Assist System fault' message
How to Fix
Ford's remedy is a free software update to correct the ITRM communication fault, delivered over-the-air (rollout began around May 2026) or at a dealer at no cost under NHTSA campaign 26V104. Until updated, drivers should treat any Trailer Brake Module Fault warning as a real loss of trailer braking, reduce speed, and avoid towing heavy loads. Verify eligibility by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
2004-2009 Ford F-150 (11th-generation) suffers from Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) corrosion. The aluminum-housed module mounts directly to a steel frame crossmember above the spare tire — the dissimilar-metal contact creates galvanic corrosion, accelerated by road salt and moisture. The aluminum case cracks, water shorts the internal circuit board, and the module stops driving the fuel pump. Symptoms: crank-no-start (most common), stalling after hitting a bump or stopping at lights, intermittent loss of power. Ford issued a recall for 2005-2006 F-150 FPDMs specifically; 2004 and 2007-2009 are not recall-covered but suffer the same defect. Owners typically pay $150-$400 for module replacement plus relocation hardware that mounts the module away from the steel frame.
Common Symptoms
Crank but no start
Sudden stall while driving
Loss of power
Fuel pressure-related warning or code
Intermittent starting problems
How to Fix
Inspect the fuel pump driver module and its mounting bracket for corrosion, cracking, or water intrusion, especially on rust-belt trucks. Repair usually involves replacing the FPDM and often the corroded mounting hardware or bracket, then confirming fuel pressure and wiring integrity; typical cost is about $150-$450. If the truck still will not start, test the fuel pump and rail pressure sensor circuit next.
Medium Confidence438 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
On the Ford F-150 the fuel pump is not switched by a simple relay — it is speed-controlled by a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) that the PCM commands over a duty-cycle line. The FPDM monitors its own output side to the in-tank pump, and when it sees an open, short or out-of-range condition in that secondary circuit it reports the fault back to the PCM, which stores P1238 (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault). Ford stores this code alongside its siblings P1233 (FPDM disabled or offline) and P1237, and on this truck the three usually have the same root cause.
The dominant failure is the module itself rather than the wiring. Ford bolted the aluminum-cased FPDM directly to the steel frame crossmember above the spare tire — the most exposed, salt-blasted spot under the truck. Dissimilar metals plus road salt and standing water produce galvanic corrosion that eats the aluminum case, cracks it open and lets moisture onto the circuit board. The board then throws intermittent secondary-circuit faults before it fails outright. Salt Belt trucks fail at dramatically higher rates than Sun Belt trucks, and the pattern is worst on the 2004-2008 generation, though the earlier FPDM-equipped trucks fail the same way.
Drivers usually notice an intermittent problem long before a hard failure: the check engine light comes on, the engine cranks but takes several tries to catch, or it stalls at a stop and restarts a minute later. Because the pump is being commanded at the wrong speed, some owners also see a lean-condition or low fuel pressure code (P0087, P0191) logged in the same session. Eventually the truck simply cranks and never starts, with no fuel pressure at the rail and no pump prime audible at key-on. Owners frequently replace the in-tank fuel pump first — an expensive tank-drop — only to have the code return within days, because the pump was never the problem.
Common Symptoms
Check engine light with fuel pump circuit codes
Extended cranking before the engine catches
Intermittent stalling that clears after a restart
No-start with no fuel pump prime at key-on
No fuel pressure at the rail
Fault returns after replacing the in-tank fuel pump
How to Fix
Diagnose the codes in the right order. If P1233 is stored with P1238, chase P1233 first — that code means the module has lost power or ground, and fixing it often clears the secondary-circuit fault too. Then lower the spare tire and physically inspect the FPDM on the frame crossmember. A case that is white, chalky, swollen, cracked or weeping is the answer; you rarely need further testing. Confirm by back-probing the module for battery voltage on the power feed, a good chassis ground, and the PCM duty-cycle command at key-on, then check for pump drive output on the secondary side. If command is present and output is not, the module is bad. If the module output is good, the fault is downstream — inspect the harness along the frame rail and the connector at the tank for green corrosion and chafing, and check the in-tank pump's own connector before condemning the pump.
The repair is a new FPDM, and it is one of the easiest jobs on the truck: two bolts on the crossmember, typically under 30 minutes with hand tools once you have the spare down. The hardest part is breaking the rusted fasteners loose. Critically, do not bolt the new module flat against bare steel again — use the rubber standoffs or spacer kit that ships with the OEM part (Ford 4L3Z-9D370-A on the later trucks) or an aftermarket kit such as Dorman 590-001, so the aluminum case is isolated from the frame, and coat the mounting hardware and the connector with dielectric grease. Skipping the standoffs is the single most common reason a replacement module fails again in two or three winters. Repair any corroded harness sections with soldered, heat-shrunk splices rather than crimp butt connectors, which wick moisture in that location. Clear codes and verify pump prime at key-on and a full 30-minute drive with no return of the fault. Parts run roughly $50-$170 depending on OEM versus aftermarket; dealer labor on top puts a shop repair in the low-to-mid hundreds, while a DIY fix is under $100 of parts. Ford never issued a recall for the corroding module, so this is an owner-paid repair.
The in-tank electric fuel pump on 1997-2004 F-150s wears out at high mileage (commonly 150k+), producing a loud whine from the tank, hard starting, and stalling that gets worse when the engine is warm or under load (climbing hills, towing). It often fails intermittently first, then leaves the truck as a crank-no-start. The dash fuel gauge can also read erratically as the sending unit in the same module fails. Note: always check the inertia (fuel shut-off) switch before condemning the pump.
Common Symptoms
Loud whine or buzz from the fuel tank
Long crank / hard start, especially when warm
Stalling under load or on inclines, then restarts
Intermittent then permanent crank-no-start
Erratic or stuck fuel gauge
How to Fix
Verify fuel pressure (~35-45 psi) and check the inertia switch and pump fuse/relay before replacing. Replace the in-tank pump/sender module and, in salt-belt trucks, inspect the fuel-tank straps at the same time. Keep the tank above 1/4 to help cool and lubricate the pump.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Genuine Ford (Motorcraft) fuel pump and sender assembly — 1999-2003 F-150, 5.4L, 4x4, 120" wheelbase
OEMXL3Z-9H307-CA$230–$371
This is the OEM number for ONE specific configuration: 5.4L V8, 4x4, 120" wheelbase. Ford splits this generation into at least seven sender-and-pump assemblies (XL3Z-9H307-AA/-BA/-CA/-DA/-EA/-FA/-GA, several superseded to a -B suffix).
The 2018-2020 F-150 3.0L Power Stroke diesel uses a Bosch CP4.2 high-pressure fuel pump. The CP4 was engineered for high-lubricity European diesel, not U.S. ultra-low-sulfur diesel, so its internal roller/cam followers can run dry and gall. Air ingress and cavitation accelerate the wear. When the pump fails it doesn't just stop — it 'grenades,' sending metal shavings throughout the entire high-pressure fuel system, destroying injectors, rails, lines, and the tank in a cascade. Owners have reported failures as early as ~48,000 miles, and the resulting whole-system replacement commonly runs $8,000-$15,000+. It is the single most catastrophic and most-searched issue for the F-150 diesel.
Common Symptoms
Sudden loss of power / engine stall and no-restart
Hard starting or extended cranking
Metal debris found in fuel filter
Fuel-system / powertrain warning lights
Rough running before total failure
How to Fix
Prevention is key: run a quality diesel fuel/lubricity additive at every fill, change the fuel filters on schedule, prime carefully and avoid running the tank to empty (air ingress), and consider a CP4 'disaster prevention'/bypass kit that routes pump weep fuel and filters debris before it reaches the tank/lines (e.g. S&S Diesel CP4-6.7F-BP-G2.1-class kits, model-fitment dependent). After a failure, the entire high-pressure side must be replaced — CP4 pump (Bosch, Ford FC3Z-9A543-A-class on 6.7; verify exact 3.0L PN), all injectors, rails, lines, and tank flush. Some owners convert to a more tolerant pump. Prevention kit/additive $50-$500; post-failure repair $8,000-$15,000+.
Ford recalled roughly 1.1 million 1997-2003 F-150s and 2004 F-150 Heritage trucks (plus 1997-1999 F-250 under 8,500 lb) because the steel fuel-tank support straps rust and can fracture in salt-belt regions. A broken strap lets the fuel tank shift, potentially separating fuel lines or letting the tank contact the road, creating a fuel-leak and fire risk. Owners hear a clunk from under the bed and may see a sagging tank or fuel smell.
Common Symptoms
Clunk or rattle from under the truck bed / fuel tank
Fuel tank visibly sagging or shifted
Rusted, flaking, or partially fractured tank straps
Fuel smell from the rear of the vehicle
How to Fix
Check the VIN against Ford recall 11S21 / NHTSA 11V385000 — the remedy (new corrosion-resistant straps, or an interim cable/steel reinforcement) is performed free by a Ford dealer. If out of the recall window or straps are visibly rusted, replace them with heavy-duty coated straps and inspect the tank mounts and fuel lines.
The 3.5L EcoBoost's high-pressure direct (GDI) injectors run at diesel-like pressures and are a common failure item, especially at higher mileage and after heat-soak. A stuck-open or electrically failing injector floods a cylinder and can wash down neighboring cylinders on the same bank, producing a cold-start misfire that often smooths out once warm. It commonly sets injector-circuit codes (P0201-P0206) alongside misfire codes (P0300-P0308) and occasionally a total-misfire/knock code. It is frequently misdiagnosed as coils or plugs before the injector is found.
Common Symptoms
Cold-start misfire / stumble that smooths when warm
Rough idle and hesitation on acceleration
Check-engine light, often flashing on start
Fuel smell from exhaust, poor fuel economy
Single-cylinder or same-bank multi-cylinder misfire
How to Fix
Read freeze-frame and identify the specific cylinder; compare fuel-injector balance/contribution data. Swap or replace the failed GDI injector (intake manifold removal required for access) and inspect for fuel-washed plugs. Replace plugs/coils on the affected cylinder if fouled. Verify high-pressure fuel pump output and low-side pressure to rule out supply issues before replacing multiple injectors.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
OEMBL3Z-9F593-BCross-refMotorcraft CM-5202 (superseded by BL3Z-9F593-B), Ford BL3Z-9F593-A (earlier revision, superseded), Ford engineering number BL3E-9F593-HB / BL3E-HB$95–$185
Sold individually; the engine takes 6 (Require Quantity: 6). Gen 1 (2011-2016) 3.5L EcoBoost is direct-injection ONLY, so this is the single injector type on the engine.
A limited build of 2024-2025 F-150s received automatic transmission main control valve bodies that were machined incorrectly. The defect causes reverse gear to fail outright, or — more dangerously — causes the truck to creep or lunge FORWARD while the shifter is in Reverse or Neutral. Ford recalled 269 vehicles under NHTSA 25V164000 (Ford 25S19) in March 2025, a campaign that also swept in 2024-2025 Bronco, 2024 Ranger, 2025 Mustang, 2025 Explorer and 2025 Aviator. The population is small and VIN-specific, but the failure mode is a rollaway hazard.
Common Symptoms
No reverse / truck will not back up
Vehicle moves forward while shifter is in Reverse
Vehicle creeps forward in Neutral
Transmission fault message or wrench light
How to Fix
Check the VIN against NHTSA 25V164000. Dealers replace the transmission main control valve body free of charge; owner letters were mailed April 11, 2025. If the truck moves in a direction that does not match the selected gear, stop using it and have it towed — do not rely on the parking brake alone as a workaround.
The 10R80 10-speed automatic (introduced on the 2017 F-150) is widely reported to shift harshly: jerking, clunking, banging on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, hesitation, gear hunting, and occasional limp-mode with a 'Transmission Not in Park' or 'drive mode not available' message. Many trucks also exhibit a torque-converter lockup-clutch shudder felt as a vibration around 30-45 mph. Root causes traced in later TSBs include adaptive-calibration mismatch during break-in, CDF drum bushing migration, and valve-body bore wear/scoring. A class action (O'Connor v. Ford, N.D. Illinois) covers the defect.
Common Symptoms
Harsh 1-2/2-3 upshifts that jerk or clunk
Loud bang/clunk when starting the truck
Hesitation, gear hunting, or slipping
Vibration/shudder at 30-45 mph (torque-converter lockup)
Limp mode or 'drive mode not available' message
How to Fix
Start with a Ford PCM/TCM reflash to the latest calibration and an adaptive-learning relearn drive cycle (early TSBs 18-2079/18-2274, later 23-2250 superseded by 24-2046). For shudder, a transmission fluid service with Mercon ULV plus friction modifier helps. Persistent harsh shifts with valve-body bore damage require main control valve body replacement (TSB 22-2428). Severe cases need converter or transmission overhaul.
The 4R70W (and later 4R75W/4R75E) 4-speed automatic behind the 4.2L V6 and 4.6L/5.4L V8s is prone to several high-mileage failures: a broken reverse (cast) band that produces a loud POP and loss of reverse; a cracked forward-clutch drum snap-ring groove on 2005+ units causing loss of ALL forward gears while reverse still works; worn overdrive band and clutches causing slipping; and solenoid-body/servo wear causing harsh or erratic shifts. Failures accelerate under towing/heavy loads and when fluid changes are neglected.
Common Symptoms
No reverse engagement or a loud pop then loss of reverse
Truck has reverse but no forward movement (2005+ forward-drum failure)
Slipping or flaring on 1-2/2-3 upshifts
Delayed or harsh engagement into Drive
Overdrive slipping under load
Limp mode (stuck in one gear)
How to Fix
Diagnose fluid condition (burnt smell, metal), line pressure, and DTCs before teardown. Repair typically means a full rebuild with upgraded forward drum/snap ring, new bands, updated solenoid pack, and torque converter; add an auxiliary transmission cooler if the truck tows. Regular fluid/filter service (Mercon V) is the main preventive measure.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
This is the fix for the 2005+ failure mode described in the issue: the OE stamped drum cracks at the snap-ring groove and the truck loses ALL forward gears while reverse still works. The Sonnax replacement is one-piece forged with a deep…
Universal-fit add-on, not a year- or engine-specific part — this is the 'add an auxiliary cooler if the truck tows' half of the documented fix, and the cheapest insurance against a repeat failure.
On the F-150, P0700 is a generic "MIL request" companion code the PCM stores whenever the transmission control strategy has logged an underlying transmission fault — it points to a problem but never names it by itself. On the extremely common 6R80 six-speed automatic (F-150 2011-2020, plus the 6R80 in Expedition/Navigator), the fault that most often drives P0700 is a failing internal molded leadframe (the plastic wiring harness/module inside the transmission that houses the output/input/turbine speed sensors and connects the shift solenoids to the valve body, Ford p/n AL3Z-7G276-D). As the leadframe's soldered connections and speed sensors degrade, the PCM sets P0700 alongside the real culprit codes — typically output-speed-sensor and gear-ratio codes such as P0720, P0722, P0731, P0715 and/or P1500. Note the mid-production architecture change: on 2009-2010 6R80 units the TCM lives in a separate leadframe/Mechatronic module that talks to the PCM (so P0700 can also accompany a lost-communication U-code), while on 2011+ trucks Ford integrated the TCM logic into the PCM and companion codes store directly there. Newer F-150s (2017+) use the 10R80 10-speed, where P0700 more often stems from valve-body/solenoid and TCM software issues rather than a leadframe.
Common Symptoms
Check-engine and/or wrench (transmission) warning light on
Harsh, delayed, or erratic shifting
Transmission stuck in a single gear (limp mode)
Speedometer dropping to zero or reading intermittently
Sudden unintended downshift into low gear at speed (rear-wheel lockup risk)
No/late upshifts and reduced power
How to Fix
Never replace parts off P0700 alone — pull the stored companion codes first. On a 6R80 F-150 showing P0700 with speed-sensor/ratio codes (P0720/P0722/P0731/P0715/P1500) and a wrench light, the accepted repair is to drop the transmission pan and replace the internal molded leadframe assembly (AL3Z-7G276-D), refill with Mercon LV, then clear codes and road-test. Eligible 2011-2013 F-150 (and 2012-2013 Expedition/Navigator) 6R80 trucks are covered FREE under Ford Customer Satisfaction Program 19N01, which extends leadframe coverage to 10 years/150,000 miles — check VIN eligibility before paying. A related PCM reprogram (recall 19S07) prevents the dangerous unintended downshift-to-first. If the leadframe checks out, diagnose the specific companion code (solenoid, valve body, wiring/connector corrosion, or low/burnt fluid). After any valve-body or solenoid work the TCM must be reflashed with the correct solenoid-body strategy or the truck will shift harshly. On 10R80 trucks, address the named companion code (often a shift-solenoid or valve-body concern) and update TCM software.
The 10R80 10-speed automatic transmission can develop a shudder during light acceleration, typically between 25-50 mph. This is caused by torque converter clutch issues and affects many F-150s. Ford has released multiple TSBs and fluid updates to address this.
Common Symptoms
Shudder during light acceleration
Harsh or jerky shifts
Vibration between 25-50 mph
Clunk when shifting at low speeds
Shudder disappears under heavy throttle
How to Fix
Perform transmission fluid flush with Motorcraft Mercon ULV and add Ford friction modifier. Adaptive learning reset via FORSCAN or dealer may help. Multiple fluid changes sometimes needed. In severe cases, torque converter replacement required under warranty extension.
High Confidence2,800 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
The 6R80 six-speed automatic (2009-2017 F-150) is generally durable but is widely reported for a harsh, banging 1-2 upshift and erratic/flaring shifts, with thousands of NHTSA complaints. The internal solenoid body 'lead frame' (the mechatronic wiring carrier) can crack or develop failing solenoid calibration, and the adapt strategy struggles to relearn after service. The classic symptom is a 1-2 shift so abrupt owners describe it as a jolt that could 'knock a cup of coffee out of your hand.' Towing, worn fluid, and never-serviced 'lifetime' fluid accelerate the problem. It is a top transmission search for this generation.
Common Symptoms
Harsh or banging 1-2 upshift
Flaring or erratic shifts
Delayed engagement into drive/reverse
Shudder under load or while towing
Transmission fault / wrench light in severe cases
How to Fix
Start with a full fluid-and-filter service using Mercon LV (the 'lifetime fill' should still be serviced ~every 60k, sooner with towing). Have the dealer flash the PCM/TCM to the latest calibration — Ford released shift-quality calibration updates that fix many harsh/delayed-engagement complaints as the first repair. Persistent harsh shifting or specific solenoid codes call for a solenoid body / lead-frame replacement (Ford solenoid body assembly, commonly cross-referenced as Sonnax/aftermarket units). A TCM adaptive (keep-alive) reset and relearn is required after repairs. Fluid service $200-$400; solenoid body $600-$1,200 installed; valve-body/rebuild far more.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Use this filter for 2011-2017 trucks with the 3.5L EcoBoost, 3.7L Ti-VCT, 5.0L Coyote or 6.2L and the 6R80. It is NOT the filter for 2015-2017 2.7L EcoBoost/3.3L trucks (those use FL3Z-7A098-A/-B) nor for 2018+ 10R80 trucks (HL3Z-7A098-A).
F-150s with an automatic transmission route ATF through a cooler built into the radiator end tank. When the internal barrier cracks or corrodes, the two fluids cross-contaminate: pink/foamy 'strawberry milkshake' ATF appears in the coolant and coolant gets into the transmission. Coolant is highly destructive to transmission clutches and can cause total transmission failure if driven on. The radiator can fail internally with no external leak, so owners often discover it only after shift problems or a milkshake in the overflow bottle.
Common Symptoms
Pink, foamy, milkshake-like coolant in the overflow/radiator
Coolant loss with no visible external leak
Harsh, slipping, or erratic shifting
Transmission overheating warning
Contaminated (milky) transmission fluid on the dipstick
How to Fix
Replace the radiator immediately and stop driving once cross-contamination is confirmed. Flush the cooling system thoroughly and do multiple transmission fluid/filter services (or a full flush) to purge coolant from the trans; inspect for internal transmission damage. Bypassing the radiator cooler with an external cooler prevents recurrence.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
1997-1998 F-150 (10th gen, first two years) uses a different radiator than 1999+. This one covers the 4.2L Essex V6 and 4.6L Triton V8 with AUTOMATIC transmission (integrated ATF cooler in the end tank).
OEMF75Z-8005-GACross-refSpectra Premium CU2136, DPI 2136, Ford F75H-8005-GA$120–$260
Covers 1997-2003 F-150 5.4L Triton and 1999-2003 F-150 4.6L Triton. 2-row crossflow core, 31.875 x 16.8125 x 2.25 in, with 3/8 in flare fittings on the built-in transmission oil cooler — those fittings are the ones you cap off if you byp…
OEM5L3Z-8005-BACross-refSpectra Premium CU2818, Replacement AP P2818, DPI 2818$130–$300
11th-gen (P221) F-150, 2004-2008, 4.2L V6 / 4.6L V8 / 5.4L V8 with automatic transmission. Trucks built with the heavy-duty cooling / max-tow package use a thicker HD core (DPI 2719-family) — check the sticker or the existing radiator th…
Transmission filter and pan gasket kit (4R70W / 4R75W / 4R75E)
OEMF6AZ-7A098-ACross-refMotorcraft FT-105, ATP B-259, Filtran 4R70W filter$15–$45
You need this two or three times, not once — the documented fix is repeated fluid-and-filter services to purge coolant from the transmission, so buy multiple kits. Covers the 4R70W/4R75W/4R75E used in F-150 1997-2008 (and 2009-2010 4.6L)…
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases; other part links may also earn au7o a commission. Confirm fitment by VIN before buying.
Ford's 2.7L EcoBoost (and related small-displacement EcoBoost engines) is prone to micro-cracks forming in the cylinder head around the exhaust ports, allowing coolant to seep into the combustion chamber. This produces unexplained coolant loss with no external leak, white sweet-smelling exhaust, cold-start misfires, and oil emulsification ('mayonnaise' under the oil cap). Left unaddressed it can cause catastrophic engine damage. The defect is the subject of active consolidated federal class-action litigation covering 2.7L and 3.5L F-150, Bronco, and Edge as of 2026.
Common Symptoms
Coolant loss with no visible leak
White smoke and sweet smell from exhaust
Cold-start misfire on one cylinder
Rough idle
Milky/emulsified oil on cap or dipstick
Overheating
How to Fix
Diagnosis requires a coolant pressure/combustion-gas test and pulling spark plugs to confirm coolant in a cylinder. The fix is cylinder head replacement (or full long-block if damage is extensive); a head gasket alone will not cure a cracked head. Some repairs fall under Ford's extended coolant-intrusion warranty coverage for affected engines — owners should check warranty status before paying out of pocket, as quotes run $4,000-$8,000.
On 3.5L PowerBoost full-hybrid F-150s, cracks develop in the coolant spigots on top of the exhaust heat exchanger, causing an external coolant leak. The result is gradual coolant loss, possible engine overheating, and an illuminated MIL/temperature warning — in some cases leaving the truck undrivable. Ford documented the failure in service bulletins SSM 51103 and SSM 51485 covering 2021-2023 PowerBoost trucks. This is distinct from the conventional EcoBoost coolant-intrusion (cylinder head) failure and from the engine block heater fire recall.
Common Symptoms
Visible coolant leak under engine
Low coolant level / repeated top-offs
Engine overheating
Check engine / temperature warning light
Coolant smell after driving
How to Fix
The exhaust heat exchanger coolant spigots are serviced in pairs — Ford's procedure replaces the cracked spigots/heat exchanger assembly and refills/bleeds the cooling system. Owners should monitor coolant level and address any low-coolant or overheat warning promptly to avoid engine damage. Repairs may be covered under powertrain or hybrid-system warranty depending on mileage.
The water pump on the 3.5L EcoBoost can fail or develop leaks, causing coolant loss and potential overheating. The pump is internal and driven by the timing chain, making replacement labor-intensive.
Common Symptoms
Coolant leak
Overheating
Low coolant warning
Sweet coolant smell
White residue near pump
How to Fix
Replace water pump when symptoms appear. Consider timing chain inspection/replacement at same time if high mileage. Replace thermostat while accessible. Ensure proper cooling system bleeding after repair.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Engine Water Pump
Cross-refDP2263
Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
High Confidence720 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
The plastic pressurized coolant degas (overflow/expansion) bottle and the plastic quick-connect tees/Y-fittings that route coolant between the block, radiator, and bottle develop hairline cracks and seep, especially at seams and hose necks and in cold weather where the square-cut O-rings on the quick-connects shrink. Owners chase a slow coolant loss and sweet smell that is hard to pinpoint because the crack only weeps under pressure or when cold. If ignored it can lead to low-coolant overheating.
Common Symptoms
Slow, unexplained coolant loss
Sweet coolant smell, occasional steam
Coolant residue around the overflow bottle or plastic fittings
Low-coolant warning / heater going cold
Leak worse when cold, reseals when hot
How to Fix
Pressure-test the cooling system to reveal the weep. Replace the degas bottle and any cracked plastic tee/Y quick-connect fittings as an assembly — a new hose/fitting will not seal reliably on an old bottle neck. Replace shrunken O-rings on quick-connects. Refill with the correct Ford orange/yellow spec coolant and burp the system.
Numerous 2004 complaints describe extensive frame corrosion, including rust-through near the rear frame, leaf spring shackles, hitch area, and subframe sections. In many reports the truck was deemed unsafe to drive, failed inspection, or showed suspension and brake mounting deterioration due to structural rust.
Common Symptoms
Visible holes or perforation in frame rails
Leaf spring shackle area rusted through
Hitch or rear frame section breaking away
Vehicle fails safety inspection
Unsafe to lift on a jack due to frame rot
How to Fix
A thorough underbody inspection is required, especially around rear frame rails, shackle mounts, crossmembers, brake line routing, and hitch attachment points. Minor corrosion can sometimes be treated and reinforced, but advanced perforation usually requires frame section repair, shackle mount repair kits, or vehicle retirement; costs range from about $500 for localized reinforcement to $5,000+ for major structural work. Brake and fuel lines should be inspected at the same time because corrosion often affects them too.
High Confidence311 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
Water can enter the door latch and freeze, and the latch actuation cable can become bent or kinked. Either condition can leave a door that appears closed but is not fully engaged with the striker, allowing it to open while driving, or a door that will not open or will not close at all. Ford recalled roughly 1.3 million F-150 (2015-2017) and 2017 Super Duty trucks (Ford 17S33 / NHTSA 17V-652).
Common Symptoms
Door will not latch / won't stay closed
Door will not open from inside or outside
Door pops open while driving
Latch freezes in cold/wet weather
Ajar warning even when door appears shut
How to Fix
Free recall remedy: dealers inspect the door latch actuation cables and replace as needed, and install water shields over the latches to keep water out. Owners with frozen-latch symptoms in cold climates should get the recall performed; aftermarket latch assemblies are also available if out of recall coverage.
2004-2008 Ford F-150 (11th-generation) suffer from window regulator cable take-up reel failure, causing the window glass to drop suddenly from the closed position — sometimes at highway speeds with a loud bang. The cable frays and bird-nests on the reel, releasing tension on the glass. Driver-side rear and front passenger windows are most commonly affected. Multiple windows on a single vehicle often fail in succession. Ford dealers report replacing 1-2 regulators per week per service department during the peak failure window. Despite extensive complaints, Ford never issued a recall. Replacement cost: $250-$450 per window at independent shops, $400-$700 at dealer.
Common Symptoms
Window falls into the door suddenly
Loud pop followed by wind noise
Power window stops moving or jams
Repeated regulator failures on multiple doors
Glass drops while driving
How to Fix
Diagnosis usually confirms a failed cable-style window regulator or broken pulley assembly inside the door. The typical repair is replacement of the regulator assembly, and often the motor is reused unless noisy or weak; expect about $250-$600 per door using quality aftermarket or OEM-style parts. If more than one window has failed, inspect all door regulators and glass guides for binding.
High Confidence1,140 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
The foam gasket that seals the roof-mounted center high-mount stop lamp (CHMSL / third brake light) against the cab dries out, compresses and shrinks with heat and UV exposure, breaking the watertight seal. Rainwater then runs down inside the cab from the roof opening, soaking the headliner, rear seat area and carpet, and can corrode wiring or foster mold. It is one of the most widely reported non-powertrain complaints across multiple F-150 generations. Ford has issued TSBs on this failure over the years (e.g., 04-20-5 on the 2004 truck) and now sells an updated lamp assembly with a thicker gasket, tacitly acknowledging the original design flaw. NOTE: there is NO confirmed Ford 10-year/150,000-mile warranty extension for this repair — that program (TSB 23-074-23 / warranty extension XG1) belongs to RAM/Stellantis and was mistakenly attributed to Ford in some sources.
Common Symptoms
Water stains or wet spots on the headliner, especially rear corners
Damp or soaked carpet/floor behind the rear seats
Condensation or fog on the inside of the rear window
Water or condensation visible inside the third brake light housing
Musty/moldy smell in the cab after rain or a car wash
Occasional intermittent third brake light electrical failure from corrosion
How to Fix
Replace the CHMSL/third brake light assembly with the updated OEM lamp that uses a thicker, more durable gasket, or reseal the housing with fresh butyl tape (preferred over RTV so the bulb can still be serviced). Dry out and inspect the headliner and rear cab for water damage. Typically an inexpensive DIY or dealer repair; unlike RAM, Ford has no broad warranty-extension program covering it, so check individual model-year TSBs and any active coverage with a dealer.
F-150 trucks equipped with the large twin-panel (panoramic) sunroof have reports of the tempered glass spontaneously shattering or 'exploding' with a loud bang, sometimes at highway speed, raining glass into the cabin. Owners and a class action attribute it to the ceramic enamel paint band on the glass edge weakening the tempered panel combined with stress from the large opening and track hardware. Ford has not issued a recall, so repairs are usually out of pocket or via insurance.
Common Symptoms
Loud bang/gunshot-like noise followed by shattered sunroof glass
Glass fragments falling into the cabin
Cracking radiating from the edge of the glass panel
There is no recall remedy; replacement of the shattered glass panel (and any damaged track/shade hardware) is the fix, typically through a Ford dealer, a glass shop, or insurance comprehensive coverage. Some owners pursue goodwill assistance from Ford or join the class action. Inspect the sunroof shade track plastic clips, which also fail on these trucks.
F-150 rocker panels and cab corners rust from the inside out. The rocker design traps road debris and moisture inside the panel, and clogged drain holes let water pool where it cannot escape, so corrosion starts behind the paint and bubbles outward before owners realize the structure underneath is rotting. Left unaddressed, the rockers and cab corners perforate, running boards/door brackets can detach, and rear doors may stop closing properly. This is documented across 2004-2008 and 2009-2014 trucks (CarComplaints flags the 2010 rockers) and continues to be a salt-belt complaint. It is distinct from the heavy frame/leaf-spring-shackle rust already catalogued — this is the cab sheet metal (rockers, lower doors, cab corners), and full rocker replacement can exceed $4,000.
Common Symptoms
Paint bubbling along the rocker panels and lower cab corners
Perforation/holes appearing at the bottom of the cab
Running boards or door brackets loosening or falling off
Rear doors not closing squarely
Visible rust behind/inside the rocker when inspected
How to Fix
Keep rocker and door drain holes clear of debris so trapped water can escape — the single best preventive step. Treat surface rust early with conversion and seal; once panels perforate, the fix is cutting out the rusted section and welding in rocker/cab-corner patch panels, then refinishing. In the salt belt, periodic underbody/cavity rinsing and a cavity-wax treatment slow internal corrosion. Inspect from inside the panel, not just the painted surface, since the rust starts hidden.
F-150s have a long-running problem with rainwater entering the cab from the top rear of the cab. Two sources dominate: the foam/rubber gasket behind the high-mounted third brake light dries out and cracks, and the butyl-tape seal around the fixed rear window (or the slider track) deforms with age. Water runs down inside the cab, soaking the headliner and rear carpet and pooling behind the rear seat. Because the cab cavity drains poorly, trapped water rots the cab corners and lower rear seat area from the inside out. Owners report mildew smell, wet rear floor, foggy windows, and corroded seat-belt anchors over time. CarComplaints documents this prominently on the 2010 model year, and forum reports span the 1997-2014 trucks heavily.
Common Symptoms
Water dripping from the top of the rear window or headliner after rain or a wash
Wet rear carpet or water pooling behind the rear seat
Musty/mildew smell and interior fogging
Stained or sagging headliner at the rear
Rust forming at the lower rear cab corners
How to Fix
Pinpoint the source with a careful water test from the bottom up. If the third brake light is the source, remove it and replace the foam gasket and reseal (a common, inexpensive fix). If the rear window is leaking, the back glass must be reset with fresh butyl tape/urethane, or a cracked slider seal replaced. Dry the headliner and carpet thoroughly and treat any cab-corner rust before it perforates; verify cab drain paths are clear. Typical parts+labor for the gasket/reseal runs roughly $100-$300; bodywork for resulting rust is far more.
On 2015+ aluminum-body F-150s with the power-locking/keyless tailgate, the electric tailgate lock actuator weakens and fails — it clicks but won't lock/unlock, operates intermittently (especially in cold weather), grinds, or quits entirely so the tailgate won't open from the key fob or handle. A second, well-documented failure mode is the tailgate releasing or unlocking on its own: a connector near the spare tire lets in snow, ice, and road salt, corroding the circuit and sending a false release signal to the BCM, which can open/unlock the tailgate unexpectedly (a security and cargo-loss concern). Ford addressed related tailgate-cable/routing issues in TSB 19-2024. It is a popular F-150 search and an easy DIY.
Common Symptoms
Tailgate clicks but won't lock/unlock
Tailgate won't open from fob or handle
Intermittent operation in cold weather
Tailgate opens or unlocks by itself
Grinding noise from latch before failure
How to Fix
For no-open/intermittent operation, replace the tailgate lock actuator motor — OEM GC3Z-9943170-E (also cross-referenced FL3Z-9943170-C / GC3Z-9943170-A/B) for 2015-2023 power-tailgate trucks; the manual handle remains as a backup. For self-opening/unlocking, clean and dielectric-grease the corroded connector near the spare tire (inspect every ~6 months in salt regions) and repair any chafed wiring; verify BCM isn't seeing a false signal. Actuator ~$60-$180; DIY replacement ~30-45 min, or $150-$250 at a dealer.
On 2004-2008 (11th-generation) F-150s, the front coil springs corrode where road salt collects between the coils and fracture — usually a lower coil snapping off. The broken end can drop, spear into the sidewall of the front tire, and cause a blowout, or the spring can slip off its perch and let that corner of the suspension collapse. Many failures are silent, with the first symptom being oddly bald inner-edge tire wear from the lost ride height. NHTSA opened defect investigation EA08018 into front coil-spring fracture on Ford trucks; owners in the Northeast/Midwest report both springs broken by 60,000-90,000 miles.
Common Symptoms
Metallic clunk or bang from the front over bumps
Sudden inner-edge (camber) tire wear on nearly new tires
One front corner sitting noticeably lower
Front tire blowout or gash in the sidewall
Loud snap followed by a rattle when driving on rough roads
How to Fix
Replace both front coil springs (they are a matched pair) — corrosion-resistant/coated replacement springs are recommended. Inspect the shock/strut perch and lower control arm for damage from a spring that has already migrated. In the rust belt, coat new springs and inspect at every tire rotation. Any inner-edge tire scalloping on a truck that hasn't been aligned warrants a spring inspection.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Coil Spring Set
Cross-ref81118
Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
The lower ball joints on 2004-2008 F-150s wear out early — often well under 100,000 miles — as the grease boots tear and dirt/water get in, or from rust-belt corrosion. Worn joints produce a metallic clunk over bumps, wandering/loose steering, and inner-edge tire wear. In severe cases a joint can separate, dropping the control arm and causing sudden loss of steering control. This is one of the most-searched front-end complaints for the generation.
Common Symptoms
Clunk or knock from the front over bumps and dips
Loose, wandering, or vague steering
Inner-edge tire wear
Vibration or shimmy through the steering wheel
Squeak from the front suspension when turning slowly
How to Fix
Inspect ball joints for play by levering the tire (vertical/horizontal) and checking the boots. Replace worn lower (and often upper) ball joints in pairs — pressed-in on some, bolt-in on others — then perform a four-wheel alignment. Use greasable/serviceable joints and keep boots intact to extend life.
The sealed, non-serviceable front hub/bearing assemblies on 13th-gen F-150s wear out and produce a speed-dependent humming or grinding that gets louder with speed and can shift with cornering load, plus steering-wheel/floor vibration. Because the wheel-speed sensor lives in the hub, a wobbling bearing or damaged tone ring commonly triggers ABS and traction-control warning lights and disables those systems. Failures are frequently reported around 80k-120k miles and are often confused with IWE noise on 4WD trucks.
Common Symptoms
Humming/growling that increases with speed
Steering wheel or floor vibration
ABS and traction-control warning lights
Noise changes when turning left vs. right
Grinding that worsens over time
How to Fix
Confirm by checking for wheel-bearing play and locating the noise (worsens with speed, may change when loading the bearing in a turn). On 4WD, rule out IWE failure first (IWE grind often stops when 4WD is engaged; hub noise does not). Replace the complete hub/bearing assembly (bearing is not separately serviceable) and clear ABS codes. Torque axle nut and fasteners to spec.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
Cross-refBR931016
Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
On 9,181 2025 F-150s the lower intermediate steering shaft fasteners were improperly attached to the steering gear, allowing the shaft to work loose or fully detach from the rack. Ford recalled these trucks under NHTSA 25V309000 (Ford 25S46) in May 2025. A detached intermediate shaft means the steering wheel is no longer connected to the road wheels — complete loss of steering control. Owners typically feel increasing play or a clunk in the wheel before separation.
Common Symptoms
Free play or slop in the steering wheel
Clunk or knock from the steering column when turning
Steering wanders or feels disconnected
Complete loss of steering control
How to Fix
Check the VIN against NHTSA 25V309000. Dealers inspect and replace the lower intermediate shaft fasteners as necessary, free of charge; owner letters were mailed May 30, 2025. Any new looseness, free play, or knocking in the steering column on a 2025 F-150 should be inspected immediately rather than driven on — this is a separation, not a wear, failure.
The 12th-gen F-150 uses a belt/column electric power-assist steering (EPAS) system that replaced the old hydraulic pump. Owners report the dash lighting up with a 'Power Steering Assist Fault — Service Now' or wrench warning, after which the assist cuts out and the wheel becomes very heavy, often at low speed in parking lots or during a turn. The failure is usually an intermittent electrical connection or a failed torque/steering-angle sensor or the EPAS motor buried in the rack, sometimes triggered by low battery voltage or a software calibration fault. While the F-150 was not part of Ford's large 2011-2013 sedan EPAS recall (423k Flex/Taurus/MKS), the truck shares the failure mode and it is heavily reported on owner forums.
Common Symptoms
'Power Steering Assist Fault' or wrench warning on dash
Steering wheel suddenly very heavy / hard to turn
Intermittent loss of assist, often at low speed or when turning
Fault clears after restart then returns
Whining or clunk from steering when assist drops
How to Fix
Scan for EPAS/steering DTCs and check battery voltage and the C-connector at the steering gear first (a poor connection or low voltage can trip the fault without a bad rack). Reflash the PSCM with the latest Ford calibration if applicable. If the motor or internal sensor has failed, the fix is a complete steering rack/gear assembly replacement (motor is non-serviceable). Always verify charging system health before condemning the rack.
On 2004-2008 F-150s the lower/intermediate steering shaft U-joints dry out and bind, producing a hard, notchy, or 'sticky' steering feel just off center and a clunk or pop when turning at low speed (e.g., pulling out of a parking spot). The rag-joint/U-joint on this generation is a well-known wear point; lubrication offers only temporary relief and the shaft usually needs replacement.
Common Symptoms
Hard, notchy, or catchy steering just off center
Clunk or pop when turning the wheel at low speed
Momentary stiffness then release when parking-lot maneuvering
Popping felt through the column over bumps while turning
How to Fix
Attempt to work grease into the U-joint bearings as a temporary fix, but the durable repair is to replace the lower steering shaft assembly. Inspect the upper shaft and rack/pinion mounts to rule out other clunk sources before replacing.
Airbag complaints on 2004 F-150 trucks include warning lights, crash sensor messages, non-deployment in crashes, and at least one report of unexpected deployment while parked. NHTSA recall data also identifies a driver airbag inflator/clockspring jumper wire issue that can disable the airbag system, reinforcing a clear safety-related pattern.
Common Symptoms
Airbag warning light illuminated
Crash sensor warning message
Airbags fail to deploy in a collision
Unexpected airbag deployment
Persistent SRS fault after recall work
How to Fix
Scan the restraint control module for airbag faults, inspect the clockspring and steering column wiring, and verify crash sensor and connector integrity. Repairs may include clockspring replacement, airbag circuit repair, or sensor replacement; typical cost is about $250-$900 unless covered by recall. After repair, the SRS light should be cleared and the system rechecked with a capable scan tool.
High Confidence298 owner reportsReviewed Invalid Date
Ford recalled 2019-2020 F-150 pickups under campaign 25S72 (NHTSA 25V442000) for a rearview camera software error. On an affected truck the camera can display a blank image when the driver shifts into reverse, or the reversing image can stay up on the display after the backing event has ended and the truck is shifted out of reverse. NHTSA classified this under Back Over Prevention: Software. A blank image reduces the driver's view of what is behind the pickup while backing, and an image that lingers after the truck is moving forward is a distraction. Ford states both situations can increase the risk of a crash. The same campaign covers a long list of other Ford and Lincoln vehicles built in overlapping years; the F-150 portion is limited to the 2019 and 2020 model years.
Common Symptoms
Rearview camera displays a blank image when reverse is selected
Backup camera image stays on the screen after shifting out of reverse
How to Fix
The repair is free at any Ford dealer: the dealer reprograms the rearview camera software to the corrected level. No parts purchase is involved. Owner notification letters for this campaign were mailed September 4, 2025, so if you bought the truck used you may never have received one — enter your VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls to see whether 25V442000 is still open on your specific F-150. Ford customer service can be reached at 1-866-436-7332, and Ford's internal number for the recall is 25S72.
On 2023-2025 F-150s (notably trucks with the Trailer Tow Max Duty package), the rear axle hub bolt can fatigue and break. A failed bolt damages the axle hub splines, which can let the truck roll away when parked without the parking brake applied, or cause a loss of drive power. Ford recalled over 103,000 F-150s under this campaign, which expanded an earlier action (NHTSA 23V896). Owners are warned that a loosening bolt produces a clicking sound, and a broken bolt produces a rattling noise.
Common Symptoms
Clicking noise from rear axle as bolt loosens
Rattling noise after bolt breaks
Truck rolls away in Park without parking brake
Loss of drive power / no power to rear wheels
How to Fix
Dealers replace the left and right rear axle shaft (half-shaft) and hub assemblies for free under Ford recall 25S82 / NHTSA 25V512. As an interim safety practice, always set the parking brake when parked. Owners hearing a new clicking or rattling from the rear axle should stop driving and have it inspected. Verify eligibility by VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
The two-piece driveshaft uses a center support (carrier) bearing that can wear out, causing vibration and noise. The rubber support degrades over time, especially in hot climates or with heavy towing. Ford TSB addresses this issue.
Common Symptoms
Vibration at highway speeds (40-70 mph)
Humming or howling noise from underneath
Vibration worse under load
Visible cracking in carrier bearing rubber
Clunking when shifting into gear
How to Fix
Replace the carrier bearing assembly ($150-300 parts). Consider upgrading to a heavy-duty carrier bearing if towing frequently. The job requires dropping the driveshaft and is about 2-3 hours labor. Some owners upgrade to aftermarket carrier bearings with greaseable Zerk fittings for longer life.
High ConfidenceVerified876 owner reportsLast reported by owners Feb 2024Reviewed Feb 2026
Ford's 4x4 F-150s use a vacuum-operated Integrated Wheel End (IWE) system instead of conventional locking hubs: vacuum keeps the front hubs UNLOCKED in 2WD and is released to lock them for 4WD. The system relies on vacuum lines, a hood-area solenoid, and a check valve that are highly vulnerable to water, road salt, and cracking. A single leak causes the hubs to partially engage, producing a loud grinding or clicking from the front wheels under acceleration/deceleration in 2WD — a hallmark symptom that typically disappears in 4-Auto/4-High because removing vacuum fully locks the hub. It is among the most-searched F-150 4x4 noise complaints and is covered by TSBs 20-2028 and 24-2189A.
Common Symptoms
Grinding or clicking from front wheels in 2WD
Noise on acceleration/deceleration
Noise disappears when switched to 4WD
Grinding worse after rain or in winter/salt
4WD fails to fully engage
How to Fix
Diagnose in steps: replace the cheap IWE check valve first, inspect/replace cracked vacuum lines and the IWE solenoid (often water-drenched below the cowl), then replace the IWE hub-lock actuators themselves if grinding persists. Confirm it is the IWE and not a failed wheel hub/bearing (IWE noise goes away in 4WD; a bad bearing does not). OEM IWE actuator part numbers: 7L1Z-3C247-A (2004-2014) and HL1Z-3C247-A (2015+); check valve and solenoid sold separately. Check valve ~$15-$40; actuators ~$80-$180 each; full system repair commonly $200-$700 with labor.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
IWE Vacuum Solenoid with Bracket — 2004-2009
OEM6L3Z-9E441-A$35–$110
If your truck is a 2007-2009 build, confirm by VIN which of the two solenoids your truck actually c
IWE Vacuum Check Valve / Vacuum Line Tube — 2015-2020
OEMFL3Z-3A788-BCross-refDorman 926-390, Ford FL3Z-3A788-A (earlier revision), Ford engineering number FL34-7A788-AD$13–$45
This is the cheapest part in the whole IWE chain and the correct FIRST thing to replace — it is the classic cause of the clacking/grinding on a cold start. Sold as a check valve integrated into the vacuum line tube.
The rear axle (commonly the 8.8-inch) develops a speed-dependent whine or howl as the pinion bearing and ring-and-pinion gears wear, often the most common source of axle noise on Ford trucks. The noise typically appears under acceleration or on deceleration and changes with throttle. On limited-slip units, worn clutch packs add a chatter or shudder during slow tight turns. Neglected or contaminated gear oil, and never-changed fluid, accelerate the wear.
Common Symptoms
Speed-dependent whine/howl from the rear
Noise changes with acceleration vs. coast
Chatter or shudder in slow tight turns (limited slip)
Metal shavings in gear oil
Growl or rumble that worsens over time
How to Fix
Check fluid level and condition first (metal shavings = internal wear). For clutch-pack chatter, drain and refill with the correct gear oil plus Ford friction modifier. For bearing/gear whine, pull the diff cover and inspect; a howling pinion bearing or worn ring-and-pinion requires a rebuild with new bearings and proper pinion preload/backlash setup. Replace limited-slip clutches if chattering persists.
On electronic shift-on-the-fly 4WD F-150s, the transfer-case shift motor (and its internal encoder that reports gear position back to the control module) is a common failure. Owners see a flashing 4WD indicator or 'Check 4x4' message, the system fails to engage or disengage 4HI/4LO, or it cycles back to 2WD. A large share of no-4WD complaints trace to the shift motor/encoder or its corroded connector rather than internal transfer-case damage.
Common Symptoms
Flashing 4WD light or 'Check 4x4' message
4HI/4LO will not engage or disengage
System reverts to 2WD on its own
Grinding/clicking when selecting 4WD
No response from the 4WD selector
How to Fix
Verify the motor gets commanded voltage and the encoder connector pins aren't bent/corroded. If the motor receives power but doesn't rotate, replace the shift motor; if it rotates but the case doesn't shift, inspect internal parts. Clean/repair the encoder connector, and confirm the 4WD switch and control module before condemning the transfer case.
Many 1998-2004 F-150 4x4s with a one-piece driveshaft develop a clunk or grunt during light-to-moderate acceleration or braking and when moving off from a stop. Ford issued a TSB attributing it to the slip-yoke splines: the factory grease dries and gets tacky, so the shaft won't slide smoothly and it binds then releases with a clunk. It is a noise/annoyance issue rather than a safety defect, but it is one of the most-searched 'F-150 clunk' complaints of the era.
Common Symptoms
Clunk or grunt when getting on/off the throttle
Clunk when moving from a stop (forward or reverse)
Noise worst at low speed on light throttle
Improves briefly after driving, returns when parked
How to Fix
Per the TSB, remove the driveshaft, clean the slip-yoke splines, and re-lubricate with the specified Teflon/PTFE grease (Ford D2AZ-19590-A) or an equivalent moly slip-yoke grease. Re-index and reinstall. Recurring cases may need a new slip yoke or driveshaft. Also inspect U-joints and the carrier so the noise isn't misattributed.
When a front seat belt pretensioner deploys in a crash, it can generate excessive sparks/hot gas that ignites insulation, carpet, or wiring inside the B-pillar, potentially starting a vehicle fire. Ford recalled about 2 million 2015-2018 F-150 trucks (about 1.6 million in the U.S.) after 23 reports of smoke or fire in North America, including several trucks destroyed by fire. NHTSA campaign 18V-568 (Ford 18S33).
Common Symptoms
Smoke or fire from the B-pillar area after a crash/pretensioner deployment
Burning smell after airbag/seat belt deployment
How to Fix
Free recall remedy: dealers remove flammable insulation material and tape remnants in the B-pillar on both sides and apply heat-resistant tape and/or coatings so a pretensioner deployment cannot ignite surrounding material. Owners should verify the recall is completed via VIN lookup.
The upper instrument-panel material on F-150 XL and XLT trims warps, lifts, and separates at the defroster vents, especially in hot, sunny climates. Owners report the dash bubbling and pulling apart within months of purchase in some cases, with a sticky or distorted surface near the windshield. Ford acknowledged the defect in TSB 19-2041 (also covered by 20-2268), instructing dealers to replace the entire upper instrument-panel section. The TSB applies only to XL/XLT trims — Lariat and higher use a different dash material that is not prone to warping. The problem is cosmetic (no safety impact) but widespread enough to spawn owner complaints and legal inquiries; the warranty repair is a multi-hour job (6.0-6.2 labor hours).
Common Symptoms
Dash material lifting, bubbling, or separating at the defrost vents
Sticky or distorted surface near the windshield base
Gap or crack along the top of the instrument panel
Worsens in hot, sunny conditions
How to Fix
Ford's remedy per TSB 19-2041 is replacement of the upper instrument-panel section on affected XL/XLT trucks. If still within the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, this is covered at no cost. Out of warranty, options are the dealer dash replacement, an aftermarket dash cap/cover, or living with the cosmetic defect. Parking in shade and using a windshield sun shade slows progression but does not reverse existing warping.
Ford modular V8s (and the EcoBoost V6 turbo manifolds) are notorious for snapping the small (8mm) exhaust-manifold-to-head studs/bolts. They are installed without anti-seize and corrode/fatigue from repeated heat cycling; on the turbo EcoBoost engines, a large share of the turbo/manifold weight hangs off the fasteners. The classic symptom is a ticking/tapping noise that is loudest on a cold start (when the manifold gap is widest) and fades as the engine warms and metal expands — caused by exhaust escaping past the broken fastener. It is a heavily-searched DIY topic because fasteners that break flush with the head are difficult to extract.
Common Symptoms
Ticking/tapping that is loud on cold start and quiets when warm
Exhaust smell or sound near the engine
Soot streaks at the manifold-to-head flange
Reduced power / drone in severe leaks
How to Fix
Confirm the leak (cold-start tick, soot/black streaking at the manifold flange). Replace broken studs/bolts with a hardware kit using anti-seize; studs snapped flush must be drilled out with a left-hand cobalt bit (often a 90-degree drill) and may require an EZ-out or, worst case, head removal. Inspect/replace the manifold gasket. Common parts: Dorman exhaust manifold hardware kits 03408 (gas V8) and 03430 (4.6/5.4 3V) plus OEM studs. Hardware $20-$60; professional repair commonly $300-$700, more if studs break flush or the manifold is cracked.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set
Cross-refMS19261
Fitment confirmed against the ShowMeTheParts catalog for this vehicle's year and engine.
High-mileage Triton V8 F-150s commonly set P0420 (and/or P0430) 'catalyst efficiency below threshold' as the catalytic converter degrades and the upstream and downstream O2 sensors start reading alike. It can be caused by a genuinely worn converter, contaminated/lazy O2 sensors, or an exhaust leak upstream of the cat; long-running misfires or oil/coolant consumption can poison the cats prematurely. It is one of the highest-search emissions faults for this engine family and a frequent emissions-test failure.
Common Symptoms
Check-engine light with P0420 and/or P0430
Failed emissions/inspection test
Sluggish performance or reduced fuel economy
Rotten-egg smell or rattle from the converter
Codes return after clearing
How to Fix
Don't just replace the cat — first inspect for exhaust leaks and test upstream/downstream O2 sensor switching with a scan tool, and fix any pending misfire or lean condition that could be poisoning the cat. Replace lazy O2 sensors if indicated. If the converter is truly degraded, replace it with a CARB/EPA-compliant unit and clear the monitor after a drive cycle.
Both the 3.5L and 2.7L EcoBoost turbos use exhaust wastegates whose actuator arm/linkage develops play as the bushings wear. The result is a distinctive metallic rattle — most noticeable for the first ~30-60 seconds after a cold start and at light throttle — coming from the turbo area. It is one of the most-searched EcoBoost noises because it sounds alarming but is usually a wear/NVH issue rather than an immediate failure. Ford has issued TSBs: 3.5L wastegate-rattle bulletins and a 2025 TSB for 2024 2.7L trucks (built on/before Oct 4, 2024) where a missing wave spring between the wastegate actuator lever arm and the turbine housing causes the rattle on both turbos.
Common Symptoms
Metallic rattle from turbo area on cold start (~30-60 sec)
Rattle at light throttle / tip-in
Noise diminishes once engine warms
No performance loss in early stages
How to Fix
Confirm the noise originates at the turbo wastegate (not the timing chain or cam phasers). Per Ford's 2.7L TSB, the repair is installing wave springs between the wastegate actuator lever arms and turbine housings on both turbochargers. For worn 3.5L actuators with excessive arm play, the fix is a new wastegate actuator or, in severe cases, turbocharger replacement under warranty. Often deferred if purely cosmetic noise. Wave-spring/actuator repair typically $150-$600; turbo replacement is far more but usually warranty-covered when within coverage.
The 11th-gen Triton V8s are known for setting both bank lean codes (P0171 and P0174) simultaneously due to a vacuum leak — most notoriously the brittle rubber PCV hose elbow hidden at the back of the intake manifold, which cracks from heat. A dirty MAF sensor or leaking intake gaskets can produce the same codes. Because both banks go lean together, the cause is almost always a shared air leak rather than a single injector, and it drives rough idle and long positive fuel trims.
Common Symptoms
P0171 and P0174 set together
Rough or surging idle
Hesitation / stumble on light throttle
Slight power and fuel-economy loss
High positive long-term fuel trims
How to Fix
Check idle fuel trims (high positive at idle that normalize at 2500 rpm points to a vacuum leak), then smoke-test the intake. Replace the cracked PCV elbow/hose at the rear of the manifold (the most common fix) and inspect intake gaskets. Clean the MAF sensor with MAF-safe cleaner. Reset trims and reverify after repair.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
Consumable called for directly by the fix: clean the mass air flow sensor with MAF-safe cleaner after the vacuum leak is repaired, then reset fuel trims. Use only a dedicated MAF cleaner — brake or carb cleaner will destroy the hot-wire …
The Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor and the EGR throttle-body spacer passages are a chronic Check-Engine source on 1997-2004 4.2L/4.6L/5.4L trucks. The ceramic DPFE sensor drifts or cracks, and the narrow 90-degree EGR elbow passages carbon up until flow is blocked, setting P0401 (insufficient EGR flow). The result is a rough idle, stumble or stall when coming to a stop, hesitation, and reduced fuel economy. It is frequently misdiagnosed as the EGR valve itself.
Common Symptoms
Check-engine light with P0401/P0402
Rough idle and stumble at stops
Stalling when decelerating to a stop
Hesitation on light acceleration
Reduced fuel economy
How to Fix
Test the DPFE sensor voltage and manually apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle to confirm the valve/passages are clear. Replace the DPFE sensor (inexpensive, ~15-minute job) and clean the carbon-clogged EGR tube/throttle-body spacer passages. Replace cracked vacuum lines and the EGR valve only if proven faulty.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
OEMF77Z-9J460-AB (Motorcraft DPFE-15)Cross-refStandard Motor Products VP8, Standard Motor Products VP8T, Wells 5S2049$25–$65
Motorcraft DPFE-15 (Ford F77Z-9J460-AB) is the updated Motorola 1.0-volt silicon design that supersedes the original ceramic sensor, and RockAuto lists it for every engine
Cross-refStandard Motor Products VP17, Wells 5S2047, NTK EA0008$22–$32
RockAuto explicitly splits these listings by mounting and by engine VIN: Wells 5S2047 and NTK EA0008 are called out as 'Engine VIN W; clip mount' on the 4.6L, while 5S2049/EA0009 are 'Engine VIN 6 or VIN W; bolt mount'.
The EVAP canister purge valve (purge solenoid) on F-150s commonly sticks in the open position, allowing raw fuel vapor from the charcoal canister to be pulled into the intake when it shouldn't be. This floods the cylinders with vapor — owners report a vehicle that cranks but won't start (or stumbles badly) immediately after filling the tank, then runs fine once it clears. A stuck-open or leaking purge valve, along with cracked/collapsed lines between the canister, valve, and intake manifold, is the most common trigger for P0496 (EVAP flow during a non-purge condition) and a frequent cause of P0455/P0442 large/small leak codes. Ford issued TSB 19-2132 covering loose EVAP hose connections on 2018-2019 trucks. The check-engine light is the usual first symptom; drivability impact ranges from none to hard-start/rough-idle. The real OEM purge valve part number is AU5Z-9C915-B (aftermarket cross-refs: Dorman 911-222, Standard CP1-prefix units).
Common Symptoms
Check engine light with P0496, P0455, P0442, or P0446
Hard start or no-start immediately after filling the fuel tank
Rough or hunting idle that clears after the engine warms
Slight loss of fuel economy
Hissing or fuel-vapor smell near the engine
How to Fix
Verify with a smoke test before replacing parts — roughly 30% of P0455/P0456 codes are a loose or cracked gas cap, so reseat/replace the cap and clear first. If the purge valve fails to hold vacuum when commanded closed (it should seal), it is leaking and must be replaced. Inspect the rubber lines from the canister to the valve and to the intake for cracks/collapse and reseat loose connections per TSB 19-2132. After repair, clear codes and complete a drive cycle to allow the EVAP monitor to re-run. The purge valve sits near the throttle body/intake and is a quick R&R; expect roughly $25-$70 for the part plus labor.
What you need to fix it
Only diagnosis- and fitment-reviewed repair parts are linked here.
EVAP purge control valve (VMV, with fuel-tube support bracket) — 2017-2020 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost (2nd-gen GTDI)
On the 2nd-gen 3.5L EcoBoost (2017-2020) the purge valve is sold by Ford as a valve + bracket unit under the 9B325 base number (catalog title reads 'Bracket - Fuel Tube Support, also includes VMV valve'). Ford catalog lists it for 2017-2…
For 2015-2017 2.7L EcoBoost trucks Ford's catalog shows no standalone purge valve, only the FL3Z-9F945-C valve assembly (~$390) — those owners should verify by VIN at a dealer.
Ford's two-piece factory lug nuts (a steel core with a thin chromed/stainless decorative cap) trap moisture between the layers. The steel core corrodes and the resulting rust bloom swells the cap outward, so the standard 21mm/22mm socket and the truck's own lug wrench no longer fit. Owners discover the problem during a roadside flat tire and are unable to remove the wheel, and over-torqued or distorted caps can also compromise proper clamping. The issue affects F-150, Expedition, and Navigator and was the subject of a (dismissed) class-action suit.
Common Symptoms
Socket or lug wrench will not seat on lug nut
Visibly bulged/peeling chrome cap
Cannot remove wheel to change a flat
Loose-feeling caps spinning on the steel core
How to Fix
Permanent fix is to discard all factory two-piece lug nuts and install solid one-piece (forged steel) M14x1.5 lug nuts; an aftermarket set runs roughly $40-$90 versus ~$220 for genuine Ford pieces. Torque to 150 lb-ft. Avoid high-pressure washing directly at the wheels, which forces water under the caps. Swollen nuts can be removed in the field with a slightly undersized impact socket driven on.
After the F-150 switched to a largely aluminum body in 2015, owners began reporting paint bubbling, blistering, and peeling on the aluminum hood, roof, and side panels, often within a few years of purchase. The defect is attributed to iron particle (galvanic) contamination of the aluminum before painting and/or primer adhesion problems, which lets corrosion form under the clear coat and lift the paint. Ford issued TSB 17-0062 (2002-2017 F-150) directing technicians to replace corroding aluminum panels, and a class-action lawsuit (later dismissed only as to the named plaintiff) alleged Ford knew of the issue. Owners note the body-panel corrosion warranty only applies if a panel 'perforates' — which aluminum effectively cannot — making warranty relief difficult. The defect is cosmetic but expensive to repair properly.
Common Symptoms
Paint bubbling or blistering on the hood, roof, or doors
Peeling or lifting clear coat over aluminum panels
White/gray powdery corrosion under the paint
Spreading blisters that worsen over time
How to Fix
Affected panels generally must be stripped to bare metal, the iron contamination/corrosion removed, and the panel re-primed and repainted — or the panel replaced per TSB 17-0062. Address it early before bubbling spreads. Document the defect and pursue goodwill/warranty assistance from Ford, citing the TSB. To slow new contamination, use an iron-fallout remover during washing and keep the truck clear of brake-dust and rail-dust deposits.
A very common 2004-2008 F-150 complaint: the heater/AC blower stops working on the low and medium speeds and only runs on the highest setting. The blower motor resistor (which limits current for speeds 1-3) burns out, while the top speed bypasses the resistor and keeps working. Occasionally the fan quits entirely or works intermittently. It is an inexpensive, easy fix but a frequently searched no-heat/no-AC-airflow problem.
Common Symptoms
Fan only blows on the highest speed setting
No airflow on low/medium fan speeds
Intermittent blower operation
Burning-plastic smell from the HVAC (melted connector)
How to Fix
Replace the blower motor resistor located behind the glove box (single 8mm-socket job). If the resistor connector is melted/corroded, replace the pigtail too, and check the blower motor for high current draw that can cook a new resistor.
The evaporator core inside the dash develops small refrigerant leaks that slowly bleed the system down, leaving the A/C blowing warm or only cold intermittently; a musty odor is a common companion complaint. Because the evaporator is buried behind the dash, the leak is easy to miss and repeat 'recharge' visits don't hold. CarComplaints documents evaporator-leak complaints across several model years, and it is one of the more labor-intensive HVAC repairs on the truck.
Common Symptoms
A/C blows warm or only intermittently cold
Refrigerant needs repeated recharging
Oily refrigerant residue at HVAC drain
Musty/moldy smell from vents
Poor cooling on hot days
How to Fix
Confirm the leak with dye or an electronic sniffer / nitrogen pressure test after verifying it isn't a condenser, line, or O-ring leak (cheaper to fix). Evaporator replacement requires dash/HVAC-box removal, evacuation, new O-rings and desiccant/accumulator, and a proper recharge to spec. Replace the cabin filter and treat the case to address the musty smell.
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2026 F-150 vehicles.The stabilizer rod fasteners may not have been tightened properly during manufacturing, which can allow the rod to shift out of position.
Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain 2023-2027 F-150 vehicles. The fuel tank may be improperly secured and leak fuel, or detach from the vehicle while driving.
How much does it cost to fix common Ford F-150 problems?
Repair costs for known Ford F-150 issues range from $0 to $15,000, depending on the specific problem and whether you choose DIY or professional repair. The most critical issue, Spark Plug Thread Blowout, typically costs $150-$500 to repair. Au7o provides step-by-step DIY maintenance guides that can help reduce repair costs.
What year Ford F-150 is the most reliable?
Reliability varies across model years of the Ford F-150. Based on documented issues, problems are most commonly reported in earlier model years. Au7o recommends checking the specific known issues for your target year before purchasing, and having a pre-purchase inspection performed by a qualified mechanic. Our known issues database covers the 1997-2026 Ford F-150 with 94 documented issues documented across 13,387+ owner reports.
What is the 1997-2003 Ford F-150 Spark Plug Thread Blowout?
The aluminum cylinder heads on Triton V8 engines have only 4 threads for spark plugs instead of the standard 8-10. This can cause spark plugs to blow out of the head, damaging threads. Helicoil repair kits are available. Repairs typically run $150-$500. Severity: high.
What is the 2004-2014 Ford F-150 Brake Line Corrosion and Hydraulic Failure (Salt-Belt 11th/12th-Gen F-150)?
2004-2014 Ford F-150 brake lines, hoses, and ABS hydraulic components corrode aggressively in salt-belt states. Steel brake lines along the frame rust through, causing sudden loss of brake fluid and reduced or no pedal feel. Front and rear hard lines and rear axle flex hoses are… Repairs typically run $300-$1,500. Severity: high.
What is the 2015-2020 Ford F-150 Brake Vacuum Pump Failure (EcoBoost)?
The vacuum pump that provides brake assist on EcoBoost F-150s can fail, resulting in a hard brake pedal and reduced braking assist. Since turbo engines don't produce intake vacuum like naturally aspirated engines, they rely on this pump. Repairs typically run $300-$800. Severity: high.
What is the 2004-2009 Ford F-150 Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) Corrosion and No-Start / Stalling?
2004-2009 Ford F-150 (11th-generation) suffers from Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) corrosion. The aluminum-housed module mounts directly to a steel frame crossmember above the spare tire — the dissimilar-metal contact creates galvanic corrosion, accelerated by road salt and moist… Repairs typically run $150-$450. Severity: high.
What is the 2004 Ford F-150 Severe Frame Rust and Rear Frame/Leaf Spring Shackle Corrosion?
Numerous 2004 complaints describe extensive frame corrosion, including rust-through near the rear frame, leaf spring shackles, hitch area, and subframe sections. In many reports the truck was deemed unsafe to drive, failed inspection, or showed suspension and brake mounting deter… Repairs typically run $500-$6,000. Severity: high.
What is the 2004 Ford F-150 Throttle Body / Electronic Throttle Stalling and Hesitation?
Multiple complaints describe the truck stalling in traffic, hesitating on throttle input, or losing power while slowing, idling, reversing, or attempting to accelerate. Several reports specifically mention the throttle body as the cause, with symptoms consistent with electronic t… Repairs typically run $150-$700. Severity: high.
What is the 2004 Ford F-150 Cruise Control Deactivation Switch Fire Risk?
The 2004 F-150 is covered by a recall for the speed control deactivation switch, which can leak internally, overheat, and cause an underhood fire even when the vehicle is parked. Complaint data also includes owners reporting cruise control failure and electrical fires on the pass… Severity: high.
What is the 2004-2006 Ford F-150 Driver Airbag Clockspring / Airbag Warning and Non-Deployment?
Airbag complaints on 2004 F-150 trucks include warning lights, crash sensor messages, non-deployment in crashes, and at least one report of unexpected deployment while parked. NHTSA recall data also identifies a driver airbag inflator/clockspring jumper wire issue that can disabl… Repairs typically run $250-$900. Severity: high.
What is the 2004-2008 Ford F-150 Front Coil Spring Fractures from Corrosion — Snaps and Punctures Front Tire (11th-Gen Salt-Belt)?
On 2004-2008 (11th-generation) F-150s, the front coil springs corrode where road salt collects between the coils and fracture — usually a lower coil snapping off. The broken end can drop, spear into the sidewall of the front tire, and cause a blowout, or the spring can slip off i… Repairs typically run $250-$900. Severity: high.
What is the 2025 Ford F-150 Instrument Panel Cluster Fails at Startup — Blank Gauges, No Speedometer or Warning Lights?
The Instrument Panel Cluster on 2025 F-150s can fail at startup, leaving the digital cluster blank or frozen so the driver has no speedometer, no fuel or temperature readings, and no telltale warning lights. Ford recalled 355,656 vehicles under NHTSA 25V540000 (Ford 25S88) in Aug… Repairs typically run $0-$0. Severity: high.
What is the 2019-2020 Ford F-150 Positive Battery Cable / BMS Terminal Connection Loosens — Stall, Lost Power Assist, and Fire Risk (Recall 19S40 / NHTSA 19V805)?
On certain 2019-2020 F-150s, the fastener securing the Power Distribution Box (PDB) 12V cable and the Battery Monitoring Sensor (BMS) eyelets to the positive battery terminal may not be properly torqued, partly due to leftover wiring-eyelet adhesive on the BMS terminal interferin… Repairs typically run $0-$0. Severity: high.
What is the 1999-2008 Ford F-150 Corroded Fuel Pump Driver Module Sets Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault?
On the Ford F-150 the fuel pump is not switched by a simple relay — it is speed-controlled by a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) that the PCM commands over a duty-cycle line. The FPDM monitors its own output side to the in-tank pump, and when it sees an open, short or out-of-range… Repairs typically run $90-$450. Severity: high.
What is the 1997-2003 Ford F-150 Carbon-Coked Idle Air Control Valve Causing Stalling at Stops?
On 1997-2003 F-150 pickups with the 4.6L and 5.4L Triton modular V8, P1507 is most often set by a mechanically restricted idle air bypass circuit rather than by an electrical fault in the IAC circuit, though wiring and connector faults are a documented minority cause and should n… Repairs typically run $25-$260. Severity: high.
What is the 2004-2008 Ford F-150 Electronic Throttle Body Actuator Failure Drops the Truck Into Forced Idle?
On 2004-2008 F-150s with the 4.6L 2V and 5.4L 3V Triton V8s, P2104 is rarely a standalone fault - it is the failure-management code the PCM sets after it has already decided the electronic throttle body (ETB) cannot be trusted. The F-150 ETB is an integrated unit: throttle plate,… Repairs typically run $300-$800. Severity: high.
What is the 1997-2004 Ford F-150 In-Tank Fuel Pump Failure — Whining, Hard Starting, Stalling Under Load, and No-Start?
The in-tank electric fuel pump on 1997-2004 F-150s wears out at high mileage (commonly 150k+), producing a loud whine from the tank, hard starting, and stalling that gets worse when the engine is warm or under load (climbing hills, towing). It often fails intermittently first, th… Repairs typically run $250-$700. Severity: high.
What is the 2025 Ford F-150 Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft Fasteners Improperly Attached — Shaft Can Detach?
On 9,181 2025 F-150s the lower intermediate steering shaft fasteners were improperly attached to the steering gear, allowing the shaft to work loose or fully detach from the rack. Ford recalled these trucks under NHTSA 25V309000 (Ford 25S46) in May 2025. A detached intermediate s… Repairs typically run $0-$0. Severity: high.
What is the 2024-2025 Ford F-150 Incorrectly Machined Transmission Valve Body — Reverse Gear Failure and Unexpected Forward Movement in Reverse or Neutral?
A limited build of 2024-2025 F-150s received automatic transmission main control valve bodies that were machined incorrectly. The defect causes reverse gear to fail outright, or — more dangerously — causes the truck to creep or lunge FORWARD while the shifter is in Reverse or Neu… Repairs typically run $0-$0. Severity: high.
What is the 2025 Ford F-150 Electronic Brake Booster (EBB) Module Malfunction — Sudden Loss of Power Brake Assist?
On 2025 F-150s the Electronic Brake Booster module can malfunction while driving or while an ADAS feature (adaptive cruise, BlueCruise, automatic emergency braking) is active, causing a loss of power brake assist. Ford recalled 312,120 vehicles across the 2025 F-150, Expedition,… Repairs typically run $0-$0. Severity: high.
What is the 2017-2020 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost cam phaser rattle on cold start?
Second-gen 3.5L EcoBoost engines develop a loud rattle/knock from the front timing cover for 2-5 seconds on cold start (and sometimes at idle). The variable-cam-timing (VCT) phasers have a lock pin that fails to engage on startup, allowing the phaser to rattle against the cam spr… Repairs typically run $800-$3,600. Severity: high.
What is the 1997-2004 Ford F-150 4.6L / 5.4L 2-Valve Triton Timing Chain Tensioner and Plastic Guide Rattle?
The 2-valve 4.6L and 5.4L Triton V8s (distinct from the later 3-valve cam-phaser motors) use hydraulic timing-chain tensioners and plastic chain guides that wear and fail with age. The tensioners bleed down oil pressure overnight, so the chains slap on cold start; over time the b… Repairs typically run $800-$2,500. Severity: high.
